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rgh0

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About rgh0

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  • Name
    Rohan
  • Car
    1978 S1

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  1. No2 cup is a viscosity measure for grease - you will generally see it specified on the back of the pack. Most Autogreases are No2 grease. Any EP water resistant lithium ( not lime I presume thats a typo) based based No2 grease should do for your rack cheers Rohan
  2. I am currently rebuilding an Excel 912 LC 2.2L engine to a 200 plus hp spec to put in my S1 Esprit. Externally apart from the water pump connection orientation everything else fits without modification. The block, main bearing cap ladder and sump design have detail diffrences but otherwise the engine is externally identical I plan to replace the Excel pump with an Esprit pump with correct connections orientation. The later 912 HC blocks and 910 turbo blocks are supposedly stronger than the earlier 912 LC blocks which are in turn stronger than the original 907 blocks but I think the differences are small and not worth pursuing for most applications in a N/A esprit. Plenty of high horsepower 2.2 L engines have been build using 907 blocks as the basis. cheers Rohan
  3. I looked at doing the same thing but in the end opted for better engine mounts instead. You can make your own or buy the turbo mount conversion kits people sell - you will see a lot of discussion on this in the Yahoo s1s2s3owners group The stay is at best a cover up for the base problem and at worst does nothing useful. cheers Rohan
  4. Massimo If your aim is to restore the car as standard and to put a standard 907 motor in it then I would source a rebuid from a reputable engine shop and provide them with the base motor as a starting point. If you dont trust the Italian ones then find a good one in the UK with 907 experience. A used 907 engine is relatively cheap as every one wants the later 912 engines. The main concern in buying a used 907 engine is no corrossion in the head or block and a usable set of rods and crank. The rest can be replaced at reasonable cost or will need replacing anyhow during the rebuild anyway. An engine out of an Esprit is best if you can find one but may need to get one from an Elite or Eclat and change the water pump to the Esprit type. Dont buy a Jensen Healey engine as it has a number of differences that make conversion to an Esprit hard and it was an inferior engine to begin with with smaller head ports and rope seal crank. The biggest problem I had with the engine I got from the UK was the studs and bolts in the front of Engine ( it was out of an Excel) corroding into the alloy block and breaking when I tried to dismantle. Trying to buy a usable used motor and put it in without rebuilding is a big risk - you may be lucky - or it may blow up like you current one did in a few hundred kilometres and you are back where you started. cheers Rohan
  5. I bought a very used 2.2L 912 engine from Mike at LotusBits and shipped it to Australia about 12 months ago. I am slowly rebuilding it as a 220hp engine to replace my current standard 2 litre 907 engine in my S1. I am not in any hurry as current engine is fine and I can do most of the work myself. I have built many Lotus twin cam engines over the years for my racing elan but this is my first 9xx total rebuild to a modified specification and I am enjoying exploring the options for a good reliable and hot road engine. The rebuild itself especially to standard specifications is not hard and any competent engine shop familiar with 4 valve twin OHC engines with the manual and instructions not to take short cuts (and not to use large amounts of silicone sealant!) should be able to do a good rebuild job. Shops like this must exist in Italy It only gets complex if you want to start making changes in search of more power and torque and a more responsive engine- high compression, high lift cam, porting, bigger valves, lighter flywheel, rods, pistons etc etc If in a hurry getting a fully rebuilt engine to your required sopecification from the Uk certainly quicker and more certain even if much more expensive. cheers Rohan
  6. Black S1 Esprit in Melbourne cheers Rohan
  7. Yes a good synthetic has less viscosity variation with temperature - thinner when cold and thicker when hot than a conventional mineral oil and thus giving better performance and being closer to right over the full temperature range of operation. cheers Rohan PS I have used redline for years and its a big improvement
  8. My S1 is black and the rear bumper was the same gloss black as the body - its never been repainted. The window frames appear to have been a satin black but hard to tell and I cant remember if they were glossier back 30 years ago ! cheers Rohan
  9. The original Lotus listing is to cold for normal use - SJ are right use NGK BP6Es or Champion N9Y unless you spend all your time at 6000 plus rpm on the track or freeway. cheers Rohan
  10. Are you sure the rings end gap clearance is correct and the rings are fitting correctly in the piston grooves with the correct clearance and the pistons themselves have the correct clearance in the sleeves. If all of that correct then you should be OK. The engine should turn on the starter even after a rebuild, if its so tight that you dont think it will, I would check and check again looking for why it is tight. Rings pressure on the bores should not do that. cheers Rohan
  11. Yes its orgiinal, its the same as the spare in my 78 S1 cheers Rohan
  12. Nothing on an installed Esprit engine is really easy, but removal of the pump is not particularly difficult. You need to remove the carbs and manifold, the alternator and cam and v belts. The pump can then be unbolted and removed relatively easily - provided the bolts have not corroded and siezed in place. I would do all i oculd to confirm the prime of the pump first before I start pulling it out, oil pumps are a very reliable device but loss of prime following a long layup or engine work can be problem cheers Rohan
  13. IF the SJ liners are supposed to be finish honed for the standard cast pistons then SJ should be able to tell you the bore size and torelance and surface finish of the sleeves and the diameter and tolerances of the standard cast piston that matches the sleeve and the resultant tolerances on the bore clearance and how that is within the required specification. If SJ cant tell you this data then they are not finished sleeves as SJ believed. From the bore measurements and tolerances data supplied for the measured sleeves they would not fit any piston specification I am aware of. The only pistons that would fit these sleeves would be fractionally undersize and no one makes undersize pistons that I am aware of. The tolerances on the bore between the sleeves would also require individual sizing of pistons to match the wide variation in the sleeves bore to get acceptable piston to bore clearances. That is why I have said they are not finish honed or matched to any set ot type of piston. I suspect a proper measurement of surface finish would also demonstrate they are not finish honed. i.e.The surface is both too rough as only coarse stones for an initial rough hone have been used and the bore has not been finish honed with fine stones and also not plateau honed and brushed to remove the sharp peaks. Very difficult to achieve the correct tolerance and surface finish with home honing tools but if you have got the time and skill and measuring equipment worth a try I guess cheers Rohan
  14. Typical finish honing after rough boring and honing will increase the bore by around 3 to 4 thou inch / .075 to 0.1 mm. This would move the rough finished sleeves you have been supplied with to the correct bore dimension. The fact that the supplier has provided a set of sleeves and pistons without clarifying or appearing to even understand they are not a finished match set is the concern. But then precision machining and matching of components and why you do it and how you specify it is not understood by many even those in the business who should know. cheers Rohan forgot to mention Typical professional honing equipment will remove around .010 inch of material a minute so it is not a long process. Home hand held drill driven honing tools are really just toys and glaze breakers at best. Take your sleeves to a professional engine machining shop with the right equipment to produce a straight and circular bore with the correct diameter and surface finsh Find a race engine machining shop that is interested in doing historic racing engines - these are the places that care and do the best work ( if not the cheapest cost) cheers Rohan
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