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rgh0

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Everything posted by rgh0

  1. No2 cup is a viscosity measure for grease - you will generally see it specified on the back of the pack. Most Autogreases are No2 grease. Any EP water resistant lithium ( not lime I presume thats a typo) based based No2 grease should do for your rack cheers Rohan
  2. I am currently rebuilding an Excel 912 LC 2.2L engine to a 200 plus hp spec to put in my S1 Esprit. Externally apart from the water pump connection orientation everything else fits without modification. The block, main bearing cap ladder and sump design have detail diffrences but otherwise the engine is externally identical I plan to replace the Excel pump with an Esprit pump with correct connections orientation. The later 912 HC blocks and 910 turbo blocks are supposedly stronger than the earlier 912 LC blocks which are in turn stronger than the original 907 blocks but I think the differences are small and not worth pursuing for most applications in a N/A esprit. Plenty of high horsepower 2.2 L engines have been build using 907 blocks as the basis. cheers Rohan
  3. I looked at doing the same thing but in the end opted for better engine mounts instead. You can make your own or buy the turbo mount conversion kits people sell - you will see a lot of discussion on this in the Yahoo s1s2s3owners group The stay is at best a cover up for the base problem and at worst does nothing useful. cheers Rohan
  4. Massimo If your aim is to restore the car as standard and to put a standard 907 motor in it then I would source a rebuid from a reputable engine shop and provide them with the base motor as a starting point. If you dont trust the Italian ones then find a good one in the UK with 907 experience. A used 907 engine is relatively cheap as every one wants the later 912 engines. The main concern in buying a used 907 engine is no corrossion in the head or block and a usable set of rods and crank. The rest can be replaced at reasonable cost or will need replacing anyhow during the rebuild anyway. An engine out of an Esprit is best if you can find one but may need to get one from an Elite or Eclat and change the water pump to the Esprit type. Dont buy a Jensen Healey engine as it has a number of differences that make conversion to an Esprit hard and it was an inferior engine to begin with with smaller head ports and rope seal crank. The biggest problem I had with the engine I got from the UK was the studs and bolts in the front of Engine ( it was out of an Excel) corroding into the alloy block and breaking when I tried to dismantle. Trying to buy a usable used motor and put it in without rebuilding is a big risk - you may be lucky - or it may blow up like you current one did in a few hundred kilometres and you are back where you started. cheers Rohan
  5. I bought a very used 2.2L 912 engine from Mike at LotusBits and shipped it to Australia about 12 months ago. I am slowly rebuilding it as a 220hp engine to replace my current standard 2 litre 907 engine in my S1. I am not in any hurry as current engine is fine and I can do most of the work myself. I have built many Lotus twin cam engines over the years for my racing elan but this is my first 9xx total rebuild to a modified specification and I am enjoying exploring the options for a good reliable and hot road engine. The rebuild itself especially to standard specifications is not hard and any competent engine shop familiar with 4 valve twin OHC engines with the manual and instructions not to take short cuts (and not to use large amounts of silicone sealant!) should be able to do a good rebuild job. Shops like this must exist in Italy It only gets complex if you want to start making changes in search of more power and torque and a more responsive engine- high compression, high lift cam, porting, bigger valves, lighter flywheel, rods, pistons etc etc If in a hurry getting a fully rebuilt engine to your required sopecification from the Uk certainly quicker and more certain even if much more expensive. cheers Rohan
  6. Black S1 Esprit in Melbourne cheers Rohan
  7. Yes a good synthetic has less viscosity variation with temperature - thinner when cold and thicker when hot than a conventional mineral oil and thus giving better performance and being closer to right over the full temperature range of operation. cheers Rohan PS I have used redline for years and its a big improvement
  8. My S1 is black and the rear bumper was the same gloss black as the body - its never been repainted. The window frames appear to have been a satin black but hard to tell and I cant remember if they were glossier back 30 years ago ! cheers Rohan
  9. The original Lotus listing is to cold for normal use - SJ are right use NGK BP6Es or Champion N9Y unless you spend all your time at 6000 plus rpm on the track or freeway. cheers Rohan
  10. Are you sure the rings end gap clearance is correct and the rings are fitting correctly in the piston grooves with the correct clearance and the pistons themselves have the correct clearance in the sleeves. If all of that correct then you should be OK. The engine should turn on the starter even after a rebuild, if its so tight that you dont think it will, I would check and check again looking for why it is tight. Rings pressure on the bores should not do that. cheers Rohan
  11. Yes its orgiinal, its the same as the spare in my 78 S1 cheers Rohan
  12. Nothing on an installed Esprit engine is really easy, but removal of the pump is not particularly difficult. You need to remove the carbs and manifold, the alternator and cam and v belts. The pump can then be unbolted and removed relatively easily - provided the bolts have not corroded and siezed in place. I would do all i oculd to confirm the prime of the pump first before I start pulling it out, oil pumps are a very reliable device but loss of prime following a long layup or engine work can be problem cheers Rohan
  13. IF the SJ liners are supposed to be finish honed for the standard cast pistons then SJ should be able to tell you the bore size and torelance and surface finish of the sleeves and the diameter and tolerances of the standard cast piston that matches the sleeve and the resultant tolerances on the bore clearance and how that is within the required specification. If SJ cant tell you this data then they are not finished sleeves as SJ believed. From the bore measurements and tolerances data supplied for the measured sleeves they would not fit any piston specification I am aware of. The only pistons that would fit these sleeves would be fractionally undersize and no one makes undersize pistons that I am aware of. The tolerances on the bore between the sleeves would also require individual sizing of pistons to match the wide variation in the sleeves bore to get acceptable piston to bore clearances. That is why I have said they are not finish honed or matched to any set ot type of piston. I suspect a proper measurement of surface finish would also demonstrate they are not finish honed. i.e.The surface is both too rough as only coarse stones for an initial rough hone have been used and the bore has not been finish honed with fine stones and also not plateau honed and brushed to remove the sharp peaks. Very difficult to achieve the correct tolerance and surface finish with home honing tools but if you have got the time and skill and measuring equipment worth a try I guess cheers Rohan
  14. Typical finish honing after rough boring and honing will increase the bore by around 3 to 4 thou inch / .075 to 0.1 mm. This would move the rough finished sleeves you have been supplied with to the correct bore dimension. The fact that the supplier has provided a set of sleeves and pistons without clarifying or appearing to even understand they are not a finished match set is the concern. But then precision machining and matching of components and why you do it and how you specify it is not understood by many even those in the business who should know. cheers Rohan forgot to mention Typical professional honing equipment will remove around .010 inch of material a minute so it is not a long process. Home hand held drill driven honing tools are really just toys and glaze breakers at best. Take your sleeves to a professional engine machining shop with the right equipment to produce a straight and circular bore with the correct diameter and surface finsh Find a race engine machining shop that is interested in doing historic racing engines - these are the places that care and do the best work ( if not the cheapest cost) cheers Rohan
  15. If I bought new liners I would expect them to be supplied bored slightly undersize ready for honing during assembly to final size to match the actual pistons to be used. This appears to be what you got. it is not economical to hold finished liners in graded sizes to match all the potential piston types and tolerances on the parts market It just surprises me that the supplier does not tell you this - maybe he assumes you know. cheers Rohan
  16. Try www.powerbrake.co.za They will make you any disk you want in the best material available in the standard size at a price not much more than the cheap replacements you buy these days. Match their disks to a set of modern high temperature high coefficent friction pads they will recommend and it will transform the braking system without having to re-engineer it with new disks and calipers. Have not used them for my Esprit as I find the standard brakes OK for my use but I have their brakes on my competiton elan where my historic class requires original size disks and calipers and their disk pad combinations gets the most possible out of the standard sized system with great results in terms of both brake performance and durability on the track regards Rohan
  17. I agree that increasing the size of the holes that flow to the exhaust side of the head for no3 and 4 cylinders would be beneficial to cooling in that area especially if the holes are partially obstructed by the sleeves. The design of the cooling system flow tends to bypass that side of the block and bias the flow to the inlet side via the heater circulation or to the No1 and 2 cylinders for the exhaust side flow up into the head. regards Rohan
  18. The normal limit to machining on any head is the metal thickness between the head face and the water jacket under the exhaust ports. I have not yet measured this on a 9xx head but I have a couple of heads on my bench now so I will get out my ultrasonic tester and do some measurements. You can always correct for changes in compression ratio that machining produces by thicker gaskets, opening up the combustion chamber or finally if really desperate piston modifications. The bow that you observe in a damaged removed head is the result of residual stresses from overheating. When the head bolts are removed the head adopts a curved shape due to these stresses. If you bolt a curved head back on the head is mainly flattened out by the bolt loads but the result is uneven compression of the head gasket and the head gasket blowing which was probably why you removed the head in the furst place, however the head is almost flat again with the bolt loads so the cams are not affected as the top surface is also almost flat again. If you machine the head flat so it compresses the gasket evenly and all is fine the the head is not flattened by the bolt loads and the curve that was present in the top surface remains when the head is bolted down resulting in the cams binding and excessive bearing wear. When ever you machine the face of a head you also need to machine the cam mount faces flat and parrallel with the head face and reset the clearances. cheers Rohan
  19. The plug looks like its there as a block drain to me. cheers Rohan
  20. While your opening up the water pump outlet port have a look at the narrow gap between the no1 and no4 liner and the wall of the block on the exhaust side where the oil drains from the head go down to the sump. These narrow gaps restrict the flow to the exhaust side of the block which is where the critical cooling to the head exhaust valves flows from. The result is limited flow around no3 and 4 cylinders as most of what gets through the gap at no1 cylinder has gone up into the head before it reaches no3. You cant take to much off the block wall to open up the gap but smoothing out the flow parth would not hurt. cheers Rohan
  21. Do you understand why the wheel had to be shimmed to move it forward by 10mm The fact that one wheel was back 10mm and rubbing on the body and it was shimmed to prevent this and thats when the problem started is a clear indication that something is wrong with the front suspension / chassis / body alignment. Shimming the suspension joints to change the wheel location is a guarrantee of problems like you have unless you understand what caused the issue in the first place and have not made it worse. cheers Rohan
  22. Toyo RA1 - about the only modern soft compound 14 inch tyre anywhere near the right size - a little smaller in diameter than orginal but work ok on my S1. cheers Rohan
  23. I would be careful until you identify its source - it could be the cam belt tensioner pulley bearing starting to fail and that is something you dont want to happen. listen carefully to try and find if any of the auxillary bearings in the engine are making the noise ( alternator, water pump, cam belt tensioner, air con if you have it) and also test for bearing freeplay with the egnine stopped if you can reach it cheers Rohan
  24. Have you looked to see if there is a mark on the front, back or sides of the belt to indicate where it is rubbing. I once had something similalr due to the fractionally thicker section where the plies in the belt join rubbing on the back at the snubber bracket over the inlet cam pulley. cheers Rohan
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