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  1. Looks like someone who did not know what they were doing attempted a number of modifications somewhat unsuccessfully back when the previous owner did engine work in 2016. Looks like they tried to port the engine badly. Fitted valve stem seals badly. Got the timing or something else wrong in the valve setup resulting in the valves hitting the piston tops which was probably also the cause of the extreme bearing wear You are lucky to have picked up the issues and stripped the engine down when you did before a more catastrophic failure. cheers Rohan
  2. I would measure up the followers and carrier for wear. if its all within the factory specs then it does not matter which goes in which location. You need to measure top middle and bottom of the follower and carrier as the follower wears in a barrel shape and the carrier in a hourglass shape. The other issue can be wear on the follower top to cam so check the cam lobes and follower for any signs of wear also. In the end a new set of followers is not that expensive if you find enough wear to give concerns about reassembly in different locations cheers Rohan
  3. It would be great to get a copy. it would inspire me to pull one of my spare heads off the shelf and start measuring it up for the 220 HP 907 engine I want to build for my S1 one day cheers Rohan
  4. Looks like something has failed in the distributor / oil pump assembly allowing the shaft to move forward, Pull it off and investigate cheers Rohan
  5. The thinner followers are typically needed when using high lift cams that have both a smaller base circle to keep the lobe tip radius acceptable but also to enable a longer valve stem and larger valve tip height and long valve spring that can accommodate the higher lift. Of course the thinner follower can also be used to hide bodges with valve seat over cutting or reground cams. I deal with this when building competition twin cams for my Elan and have a design spreadsheet to manage all the variables. One day I will set up a similar design spread sheet for the 9xx engines when I finally get around to building a big engine for my S1 Esprit but so far the original engine keeps working. cheers Rohan
  6. Is this the Rover Forums or Lotus Forums. Personally i never see any Lotus 6 on the roads these days cheers Rohan
  7. Get a copy of the parts manual as that helps to identify what may be missing cheers Rohan
  8. The small thread knobs are probably from the 5 speed Elite / Eclat which used the same gear box and change lever as the 5 speed Elan +2 and had the gear pattern logo cheers Rohan
  9. I understand how the regulator adjustment works to hold the fuel pressure above the carb pressure and that the regulator will "try" to hold a constant fuel discharge pressure relative to atmospheric pressure if the sensor hose is disconnected. As the throttle opening increases and the boost increases the pressure in the carb bowl increases. This means less fuel will be delivered as the back pressure on the float valve increases and the float has to drop to deliver the required fuel. The lower fuel level will lean out the engine leading to loss of power. The fuel regulator is a simple proportional controller and its delivery pressure will increase with increasing fuel back pressure due to increasing carb pressure if the reference pressure line is disconnected There are multiple influences fighting each other here but the end result is a lower fuel level in the carbs and the engine running lean and loosing power. Connect the sensor tube to the plenum and assuming everything else is correct it will work. Unfortunately the odds of everything else being correct are not that great cheers Rohan
  10. with the fuel pressure regulator boost pressure sensor disconnected fuel pressure will increase with boost due to the increased back pressure but it will not stay the required amount ABOVE the boost pressure leading to problems. if this is wrong there may be other major things wrong with the pressurized carb set up that cant easily be seen from your photos. if you dont understand how pressurised carbs with blow through turbo works then find someone who does, as lots of little issues of not properly sealing the carbs and all their connections can give you a problem. cheers Rohan
  11. Just a note of caution. After not driving my S1 Esprit for a few to many months due to Covid lockdowns I finally had a chance to drive it last weekend The car started fine but then immediately started to run on only 2 cylinders so I turned it off to investigate. When I got out there was a large pool of petrol spreading under the engine !!!! Luckily I could push the car away and mop up the petrol without incident Investigations showed that the front Dellorto was flooding with fuel coming out the trumpets soon after the ignition turned on the fuel pump. It was a relatively easy fix by just removing the carb top cover and cleaning the float valve and ensuring everything was moving smoothly. I could see nothing wrong that could have cause the flooding and presume the float valve jammed open due to sitting for too long with the fuel evaporated out of the carb bowls. After the carb fix the car needed new plugs and then ran rough until I filled it will fresh fuel. It bought many smiles to be able to drive it again cheers Rohan
  12. Race tow arrangements on a Lotus with the fibreglass bodies always a challenge ! For my S1 Esprit I use a light steel rod bent in a triangle shape from the two front lower suspension pivots. It sits under the cooling intake moulding on my S1 to provide a centre tow point at the front. At the rear i have used a steel cable from a lower bolt for the lower pivot on the RH side lower suspension link to provide a tow point loop on the end of the cable tied with a wire to the exhaust . If its used and pulled sideways the tie wire will brake and the tow cable move as needed. Never needed on my S1 Esprit but a similar arrangement used more than once on my Elan cheers Rohan
  13. I would try a couple of G clamps with a rubber seal to close of the inlet ports and then apply pressure on the threaded brake line ports with grease or a brake master cylinder. As long as no air trapped in the system no chance of parts flying around but wrap it in a heavy cloth to absorb any flying bits if worried. cheers Rohan
  14. I have the original bolt in my S1. I will take a photo and measure this weekend and post
  15. Nothing wrong with a a VAG R model (I have a couple) but a Lotus starts at that point with its normal road cars and only becomes a "R" when its specifically designed / modified for serious competitive track racing in real life and not just high performance road driving. cheers Rohan
  16. My S4 Elan is best in tight twisty narrow roads My S1 Esprit best on faster more open roads. Both are immense fun to drive cheers Rohan
  17. I have a couple of 2 litre 907 engines from 78 and 79 Esprits and a later 912 2.2 litre from a early 80's front engined car either Excel or Eclat. The basic block castings look the same though there may be some minor machining drilling and tapping difference depending on the original application. The major difference with the 912 block was the beefier ladder bearing carrier and sump casting but the block itself appears to be the same as the earlier 2 litre 907 The earlier 70's rope seal blocks in the Jensen Healys may have been different as Lotus is supposed to have updated the block due to liner reliability problems according to wikipedia ??
  18. Interesting that wheel centres are black on the actual JPS cars . On my JPS style late S1 made just before the JPS cars but with similar colour scheme with these wheels they are white with gold Lotus lettering
  19. cant see the images - photo bucket is useless and most historical images in most posts that use it fail cheers Rohan
  20. The OEMs moves to HTD belts were to achieve the lower noise and longer wear life of the round tooth belt and pulleys profile. Unless you doing high miles and want a car where you cant hear that lovely belt whine at 7000 rpm behind your head stick with what you have got IMHO. Provided installed correctly and maintained right the trapezoidal belt profile is no worse at jumping teeth than the HTD belt, Millions of cars and many millions of miles point to that again just IMHO cheers Rohan
  21. Hi Giorgio Great post on your 912 engine rebuild. I have a 912 engine ( plus a spare 907) waiting in my workshop and one day i intended to build a "Big" engine for my S1 Esprit. Unfortunately it looks like a retirement job in a couple of years as my Historic racing Elan keeps me busy currently as just finishing a full race engine and gearbox rebuild and my Plus 2 130/5 is still waiting for attention as it is part way through a full rebuild plus my spare Elan race engine and gear box both need rebuilds .... as of today my Esprit is my only running Lotus 😳 cheers Rohan
  22. HI Giorgio Your design looks nice and uses a similar mount to what Lotus used on the differential on the Elan so very much in the Lotus tradition. We both approached it from looking at how to get the mounts with rubber in compression in all modes of engine movement which is a basic critical feature for a vibration mount and one that Lotus seems to have ignored in the S1 / S2 Esprit's 😠 Not sure why some would work and some not as I believe all the S1 and S2 cars used the same engine mounts and arms and geometry but perhaps Lotus made some model specific changes we are not aware of. cheers Rohan
  23. The ones i used were the "FAP" 90 kg rated ones on page 12 of the Motherson catalogue at the following link. They are a local Australian manufacturer / supplier located in Melbourne. I don't know if they sell in the US or Europe / UK. I tried the 180kg rated ones for added stiffness but engine NVH was significantly greater for no noticeable handling difference so went back to the 90Kg ones. BTR was the original supplier I source from in Australia and this company broke up a number of years ago Lotus used Silentbloc mounts for many of its cars so they must orginally be of UK origin. http Some very similar / identical mounts from another Melbourne company on page 46. Looks like Silentbloc UK was taken over by Deliner in 2020 I dont know if they still make the same product. I have also attached my original write up from 1995! cheers Rohan S1MOUNT.DOC
  24. Around 30 years ago for my S1 I used a common industrial pedestal mount bolted to the existing 2 lower holes in the chassis with a steel base plate and needed spacer to keep the engine at the correct height as it was a little shorter than the original mount and base plate. Alloy body, light, cheap and all very in keeping with what Lotus would have / should have done ! The original arms from the engine needed a small cut out to enable the bolt to be fitted with the engine and mount in situ. The engine did not need to be removed just supported while i took out the arms one at a time to drill the hole for the new central mounting bolt and make the small cut out in them. The ones I got came in two stiffnesses and I got the ones rated for 6mm deflection at 90 kg. I tried the stiffer ones rated at 180 kg for 6mm to see if this made a significant handling difference but these stiffer mounts transmitted to much vibration to the body and any handling improvement was to small to notice in a road car. They have lasted perfectly since installed all those years ago. This type of pedestal mount is common to many manufacturers should be able to be obtained cheaply from any industrial anti vibration mount supplier. cheers Rohan
  25. No2 cup is a viscosity measure for grease - you will generally see it specified on the back of the pack. Most Autogreases are No2 grease. Any EP water resistant lithium ( not lime I presume thats a typo) based based No2 grease should do for your rack cheers Rohan
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