whiskybob

So there you go... Nicely done and we all know. Excellent and thank you

Yeap... Seen that vid plus almost all the rest over the past year. but going to review and take notes now that I've started my S1 project. I'm not planning on removing the entire interior except to clean and replace, then put new covers on the binnacle, around gear shift and on top dash by windscreen. Re weight, I'd guess 315 lbs, minus doors.

So perhaps 250/300 lbs...? Rather like lifting a coffin, for want of a better comparison

Rather hoping to get the weight of just the fiberglass body, with doors and glass, off the chassis. Hoping to lift the body off the chassis with engine lift, having made two straps, front and back to go over a long central plank with arms. Lifting by the middle over the roof.

So...? What was the result?

I used to have the same issue when I first bought mine. The fuel used to spiral out if you put it in too fast. US fuel pumps are seriously slow compared to UK ones, not that that makes much difference. The trick is to learn how far in and at what angle to hold the pump. It's a question of start slow, find the right angle and speed up...

And once you've checked the pin, very, very slight adjustment makes a huge difference in being able to get reverse and first. A quarter turn on the nut at the bell housing makes a big difference. Then much the same with the modified SJ cross gate cable.

77050228H 1977 Red S1 Robert P. Walker, Westchester, NY. Engine AC7 7705 13768. Cream Leather 77030207H 1977 White S1 Robert P. Walker, Westchester, NY. Engine AC7 7703 13563. Tartan.

I have an original tartan interior that I have now taken out and started cleaning. The tops of the doors cards have faded so I'm looking to renovate using a color fabric spray. Anyone had experience with this or suggests which spray to use. So far I've found a Nu-Life 631 Dark Green that's seems closest. I'll replace the faded fabric under the windscreen area with new but the door cards are basically fine except the tops. Thanks.

My local Truck & Autos has a guy that will press it out no problems...

I pulled the piece on the shaft of yesterday. Now for the bits in the hub carrier. SJ for parts.

Very good. There is also the damage to the collar as seen in the image...

Hi Geert, I seem to remember something about your post. Personally, judging by the amount of wear related to everything on this left rear and the fact that it was crabbing along when pushed the car before I bought it, I'm thinking of being safe with this one for now and replacing all worn/wearable parts. I suspect that the PO either hit something which caused the damage or had too many fast starts, either way this car hadn't moved since 1980 before I bought it. By the by, I'm figuring that if I clean up the hub carrier as much as possible and then heat it to 200 the bearing is going to be a lot easier to pull/drop out...?

I think I've just realized what this is... it's in inner race of the bearing. The outer is still in the hub carrier....

Just taking the rear left suspension apart, having shown signs of many traffic light starts by previous owner prior to 1980 when the car was last on the road. Bearing exploded when hub carrier gently pulled, radius arm rubber mount separating and kind of oval in the center, rear spring top insulator also badly worn, UV joints also showing signs of wear. Then I came across this... The collar (?) on the shaft has split. and broken away. How to fix?