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Everything posted by whiskybob

  1. So there you go... Nicely done and we all know. Excellent and thank you
  2. Yeap... Seen that vid plus almost all the rest over the past year. but going to review and take notes now that I've started my S1 project. I'm not planning on removing the entire interior except to clean and replace, then put new covers on the binnacle, around gear shift and on top dash by windscreen. Re weight, I'd guess 315 lbs, minus doors.
  3. So perhaps 250/300 lbs...? Rather like lifting a coffin, for want of a better comparison
  4. Rather hoping to get the weight of just the fiberglass body, with doors and glass, off the chassis. Hoping to lift the body off the chassis with engine lift, having made two straps, front and back to go over a long central plank with arms. Lifting by the middle over the roof.
  5. I used to have the same issue when I first bought mine. The fuel used to spiral out if you put it in too fast. US fuel pumps are seriously slow compared to UK ones, not that that makes much difference. The trick is to learn how far in and at what angle to hold the pump. It's a question of start slow, find the right angle and speed up...
  6. And once you've checked the pin, very, very slight adjustment makes a huge difference in being able to get reverse and first. A quarter turn on the nut at the bell housing makes a big difference. Then much the same with the modified SJ cross gate cable.
  7. 77050228H 1977 Red S1 Robert P. Walker, Westchester, NY. Engine AC7 7705 13768. Cream Leather 77030207H 1977 White S1 Robert P. Walker, Westchester, NY. Engine AC7 7703 13563. Tartan.
  8. I have an original tartan interior that I have now taken out and started cleaning. The tops of the doors cards have faded so I'm looking to renovate using a color fabric spray. Anyone had experience with this or suggests which spray to use. So far I've found a Nu-Life 631 Dark Green that's seems closest. I'll replace the faded fabric under the windscreen area with new but the door cards are basically fine except the tops. Thanks.
  9. My local Truck & Autos has a guy that will press it out no problems...
  10. I pulled the piece on the shaft of yesterday. Now for the bits in the hub carrier. SJ for parts.
  11. Very good. There is also the damage to the collar as seen in the image...
  12. Hi Geert, I seem to remember something about your post. Personally, judging by the amount of wear related to everything on this left rear and the fact that it was crabbing along when pushed the car before I bought it, I'm thinking of being safe with this one for now and replacing all worn/wearable parts. I suspect that the PO either hit something which caused the damage or had too many fast starts, either way this car hadn't moved since 1980 before I bought it. By the by, I'm figuring that if I clean up the hub carrier as much as possible and then heat it to 200 the bearing is going to
  13. I think I've just realized what this is... it's in inner race of the bearing. The outer is still in the hub carrier....
  14. Just taking the rear left suspension apart, having shown signs of many traffic light starts by previous owner prior to 1980 when the car was last on the road. Bearing exploded when hub carrier gently pulled, radius arm rubber mount separating and kind of oval in the center, rear spring top insulator also badly worn, UV joints also showing signs of wear. Then I came across this... The collar (?) on the shaft has split. and broken away. How to fix?
  15. Just put a battery into my white 207H project (Not moved since 1980...). I was amazed that both windows went up and down with no engine power... My red 228H needs engine power to move at all... Looking forward to making adjustments suggested above for even more power. Thanks.
  16. Looks god to me. At least I know what mine might look like when it gets prep'd.
  17. Fridge. Just finished reading your project. Truly amazing. Gives me plenty of food for thought for my own project as I'm about to finish my E-Type.
  18. Interesting solution Dave. I have the same issue caused by a slight irregularity to the plug housing. Will certainly try it. Robert
  19. The answer to me question was quit simple, as it turned out. Remove pin and nut from cable - undo gear shift mechanism and leave loose - tie strong string to cable end and push back through hole. Cable end and string drops down and can then be pushed towards from of car and up through hole were gear shift has been loosened and pushed to one side and/or up. Take of nut draw up through string. Pull whole cable out of the back with long string still attached. Replace broken cable to new cable to the string at engine side and pull new cable through to gear shift. Attach new nut over the stri
  20. Surprised no one has replied to you yet. Good friend of mine Bob Fogle came up with this.... boat bilge pump, flexible drier pipe and adjustable temp sensor... Sitting in traffic sensor kicks in at your preset level, 170, 180 or whatever... Sounds a bit odd when you arrive at a show, get out and walk away as the pump kicks in to extract the hot air from the top of the engine.. Fuel evaporation is a real problem in July/August in most states in the USA....
  21. So how do you get to the cross gate cable nut inside the chassis...?
  22. Not sure if this has been mentioned. I have been using the SJ modification on the cross gate cable now for four years or so. Does as it says on the box and has been a huge improvement. That is until the thread the modification screws onto just broke... Seems to have moved the weak link to another area.... As seen at the top of the image. The thread is also slightly bent.
  23. whiskybob


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