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glynherron

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Everything posted by glynherron

  1. Oh bugger... I've just posted again on the same topic rather than bumping this to the top again! I dont have straps, only the chains, so could do with some pics of the chain locations..... Cheers Glyn
  2. Sorted, but my arms are a mess! Both were accessible from the top, but no elbow room! Cheers Glyn
  3. Well guys, tomorrow is the day to lift out the engine/gearbox. I've bought a hoist, load leveler and an engine stand! So where do I attach the load leveler. I'm worried about putting strain on components and causing damage. Any photos or suggestions?? Cheers Glyn
  4. Thanks, Ill be having another go on Friday night Cheers Glyn
  5. Thanks guys, and a 3 leg ok? Stable enough to work on? Cheers Glyn
  6. Hi Guys Engine/gearbox is almost out. Buying an engine stand, buy could do with knowing how heavy the lump is. Any ideas Cheers Glyn
  7. I've never used a load leveler (engine leveler) to remove the engine.... Has anyone got any pics of one in use. Where is best to attach it to on the block / gbox Thanks Glyn
  8. Well engine/gearbox is almost ready to be pulled. Struggling to remove the PAS pump.. So is it best to drain fluid and remove pipes, but can't even see clearly where to disconnect OR remove the pump with pipes intact Thanks guys Glyn
  9. Thanks Rich, that is a good consideration to make...... I'll measure and see what I find Hey Paul, long time no see, hope life is good with you matey Its just the mech side for now, together with the Kelsey Hayes V8 Brembo brakes. I hate the s4s brakes, so I've got the V8 pedal box, master cylinder and servo, and ABS unit plus wiring. I've just got to work on the wiring diagrams now! Hopefully done in next few weeks for engine but probably a winter project for brakes unless someone has done it before and can shed some light on the conversion. See you soon G
  10. mmm Its been over a year since she was last run, and with a cam belt over due, I don't want to restart, but remember it was almost off the gauge and was waiting for the oil pressure light to start to flicker! Was just thinking if the crank side of things was sub £500 it might be worthwhile doing now rather that later Glyn
  11. Thanks for that Travis, I really appreciate the time do reply I'm suffering low oil pressure, even after an oil change, when hot, so either oil pump and/or shells. I'm no expert, but would have thought it best to regrind, but I guess the shells are softer after all. I wouldn't anticipate damage as all is running ok. Don't the shells have an identification mark somewhere? Cheers Glyn
  12. Lots to do!!!!!!!!!!!! Well I've just bought and engine hoist so if anyone is ever in the need to borrow it, you know where to come.... Anyway, engine/gearbox to come out and then....... Replace gearbox oil, replace drive shaft oil seals and O rings Check condition of clutch and flywheel exhaust manifold, studs, nuts and gaskets Timing belt and auxiliary belts, valve clearances and adjustment if necessary Oil pump Now I'm also thinking of pulling the crank, regrind, shells, front and rear crank seals Any idea of any of the costs - I only need rough parts costs, I'll do the labour myself Cheers Guys
  13. Just thinking of all the cars which smell of petrol with cause unknown....... I wonder how many others are like mine, as you can't easily see or check it...........
  14. Hey Bibs Thanks, but how did I achieve that? Was is signing in under my facebook login? If so, is it possible to merge the 2 and delete the FB one? Sorry to cause you hassle I looked for your phone number to call, but you've gone Cheers
  15. Thanks Guys When the tank was put under 5psi pressure during reconditioning, they noticed the leak. It was / is definitely the 'o' ring described, being about 10mm in diameter. They wiggled it and you could hear the air escaping past it. When I removed the washer (like a fish gill arrangement where once its on its on, if you know what I mean) from the underside of the fitting, it damaged the plastic, so it looks like I will need to find an alternative solution of sealing the wire entry point. So nitrile is the way forward then! Better get the RS or farnell book out Cheers Glyn ps on a side note, why has my post count gone to 3, when it must have been in the hundreds....... it was along time ago when I last posted though
  16. Hey guys Having previously owning a 2002 V8 I have a spare OBDII cable and PC software. Looking to swap for ALDL lead for a 4 pot. Any good? Cheers Glyn ps I hope this is OK, not being in the for sale section, just though more owners might see the swap here
  17. Hey guys, its been a long time........................ Well its been too long since the yellow peril was on the road, so now's the time. Got various issues to sort like replacing both oil coolers (non genuine available??), full service, belts, exhaust manifold (oh dear or is that dear!), engine mounts, drivers door mirror, and then replacing ABS for the Kelsey Hayes system! But for now I have a petrol smell. Checked pipes, recon OS tank. They say the 'O' ring is leaking where the electrical connections pass into the fuel pump. So, what sort of 'O' ring do I need? What is compatible with fuel vapour? Where to buy from? I guess I could buy a complete fuel pump assembly, but this seems like an expensive solution Any solutions to any of problems are welcome Looking forward to hearing her ROAR again! Cheers Glyn
  18. I drove past her all covered in ice and snow on Sunday. She needs a warm shelter
  19. Re the caps on the expansion and header tanks From what I have seen, some designs have the sprung cap on the expansion tank and a plain cap on the header tank and some have the plain cap on the expansion tank and the sprung cap on the header tank. S4s's have the sprung cap on the header tank which is opposite to what is being discussed here. So anyone reading this take care as designs do change.... Glyn
  20. I dont know what work you have been doing, but........ after i replaced my clutch, it wouldn't start, well started and then died Turned out to be anj earth wire (well several) that terminated in a ring crimp. The ring had become detatched from the rest of the crimp. They should have screwed to the bellhousing area near the crank sensor I think. Have a look. There should also be another crimp at the front near the thermostat? Hope this helps What work were you doing?? Glyn
  21. Bought the 5/8 GSP male/male adaptor today....
  22. Wow thats fast !! Thanks - hopefully be back on the road for the weekend - yippeeeee Glyn
  23. **** Update **** Well the sodium hydroxide worked a treat While the oil cooler is on order (5 weeks delivery from SJ) does any one know the thread size so I can buy a male/male union to connect the flexible pipes together (for now)? Thanks Glyn
  24. Freek, thanks for the info Yes the 28mm thin nut!! Will get hold of some sodium hydroxide and see how it goes. Just hope I dont add too much and shatter the glass with the heat produced. Can I use a tin, or will it react with the solution?? Oil coolers out of stock at SJ but I guess I'll just connect the pipes until they are available Thanks again Glyn
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