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Everything posted by glynherron

  1. Well, I've looked on the Midwestcontrol link (thanks Sanj) and have found these prefer this as it has a booted joint which is filled with a lubricant) (Gary, are these the QR ones which Trev used? How do you intent to keep the joint "clean") I obviously need to compare lengths to original before I go any further, unless someone has already fitted any of these. Thanks Glyn
  2. Paint has arrived. Another job on the to do list while I'm waiting to get my head back and big ends to be made! Looks stunning. Well done!!
  3. Have a look here...
  4. Ok, thanks I've already got the translator bearings and just looking for the rose joints. The non studded ones are so much cheaper, even with phosphor bronze bearings. Has anyone tried them?
  5. Hello all Does anyone in the UK have a supplier for the rod ends for both the translator and also the cables and part numbers, (btw what sizes are they) as all I can seem to find are not of the studded kind (is they have a hole rather than a stud). Secondly, can non studded ones be fitted, and just bolted up, or will this method not have enough clearance for the mechanism to work? Thanks
  6. I completely agree. But better to trap broken bits than have them floating around freely and wreck the cwp
  7. The magnet is to trap any small metallic particles and also bigger stuff if needed. You'll be amazed what comes out!
  8. You are so funny.... Travis can you post me one lol Gulp... I've left mine dripping with swarfega Jizer Can't get to wash them till tomorrow!!
  9. I don't know what one looks like...I have an s4s though!
  10. Took off rings yesterday without an issue. The ring grooves are really gunked up especially the top groove which has no ring. What do you use to clean out the grooves? I've also looked on the workshop manual and expected to see gap sizes when the rings are fitted to the bores to calculate serviceability but found nothing. Have I just missed them? Thanks Glyn Thanks Hi Sietse I've kept the rings with their respective liners including orientation. Can you explain why they will need running in again and why oil consumption will go up. Thanks Glyn
  11. I really wish I'd been able to do a hot compression test before I stripped it all down!
  12. Thanks Gibbie for taking the time to reply in such detail. It is much appreciated. Glyn Thanks for taking the time to reply in such detail. Much appreciated Glyn
  13. I'm in the process of rebuilding an s4s motor with 55000miles on the clock. It is costing far more money than anticipated. Even though I'm just a maths teacher and realise that the oil doesn't get everywhere to cause damage the percent cost of oil vs the cost of a rebuild is so small. Having been through this I would use good oil every time.
  14. Hi Gibbie Just a quick bit of info please... How did you prepare the aluminium? Did you mask off the "fins" or sand the paint off afterwards? Did you use painstriper first? Any primer? Oven bake? Looking to do this on mine while I'm waiting for various other parts before the final build. Cheers Glyn
  15. I read on here some time ago that one owner cracks open the oil cooler pipes to drain the coolers and pipes and also so that the oil cooler unions never seize solid.
  16. Great to hear that it's a proven technology. Thanks for your feedback. He was wanting to skim the head as a matter of course. I said a definite no and just to measure!
  17. Agreed. Sorry if I was unclear. If replacing the whole guide he bores them and collapses but not for the inserts. Thanks
  18. Hi Travis. Thanks for your feedback. He doesn't like to press out the old guides in case they pick up on the way out. He also doesn't like to heat heads up and prefers to bore them out and collapse them in. He fits Rapid Technologies repair sleeves which he has used for many years. Bad idea? Should I go somewhere else He specialises in vintage and classic engine repair Thanks Glyn
  19. I see your point but as all the valves wobble and some dramatically I have to put my faith in someone. I've used him to grind my flywheel and polish the crank previously.
  20. On to the next step... Pistons numbered and out on the bench. I'm yet to read the service notes on the wear parameters but supposing they do not need replacing: For each piston do the rings have to be refitted the same way around ie not upside down within the groove? How to take them off How to clean the oil control ring How to replace I hope this makes sense! Thanks as always Glyn
  21. Took the head to an engineer. All guides need replacing. So how much is reasonable? New valve guide inserts (American parts) Cut seats and re face valves De coke Machine exhaust port face Clean Pressure test
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