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  1. But would under tolerance lead to potentially zero clearance when hot, and excessive valve temperatures? I think that over tolerance is better than under, although none it ideal?? Comments please! Glyn
  2. I've just taken mine off (and many other parts too), although mine is on an engine stand. I used a rubber mallet to tap it from side to side. I can't remember if its on dowels, but I don't think it is, so it's just a matter of breaking the seal. You won't break the casting with a rubber mallet I sure!! Glyn
  3. So how if clearances decrease with time, can the clearances be larger than the max spec? The obvious answer is that whoever did the last work on the top end didn't have enough shim sizes and left them on the large size? Can you think of any other explanation ps I'm using clean Bluepoint feeler gauges and no other tat Glyn pps good luck with your neighbor finding the shims!!
  4. Hi guys again.......... So while we're almost all in very small pieces, I've checked the valve clearances. These are my findings Exhaust spec 0.010" to 0.012" 0.011 0.012 0.011 0.010 0.012 0.013 0.012 0.012 Inlet spec 0.005" to 0.007" 0.008 0.008 0.010 0.011 0.015 0.008 0.008 0.008 Question: as valves and valve seats wear I would expect the clearances to decrease. But just about all except 1 are on the max clearance or greater. Exhaust no 4 is the only worry to me, being on the minimum. I guess inlet number 5 will be a little noisier? Again, comments please. Thanks Glyn
  5. I've had this esprit for almost 3 years but not been used for a long while. I don't know its history for the previous oil, but I use the lotus recommended, from opie oils, but I can't remember the name of it, or the spec! So in my list of parts I'm going to order standard mains and big ends. Should I buy from lotus or from for example mr kemp etc? Genuine our not? Thanks for you continued support and interest Glyn
  6. Hi Guys again..... Below are some pics of the shells from the mains and big ends. What are the shells made from (metals and colours?) How do I tell what size they are? Please add comments from what you see and what further I need to check Cheers Big end shells (con rod side) Main shells Shell markings
  7. Thanks, I'll get my magnifying glasses out!
  8. Hi Jez Did you get this sorted? What was the issue GLyn
  9. Don't laugh, but i read somewhere, but can't remember where, to put some peanut butter inside a cloth and use that. The buff up. Good job I'm not anaphylactic - excuse spelling !! Glyn
  10. Thanks Travis.... This little bleed hole ... is it shown anywhere on the parts list or service manual - page number or reference? Sounds critical.... Thanks
  11. Ok guy, I get the message! I did replace the bearing and seal on my previous s4s, and yes it was a cow in situ. I still have the press which I bought to do the job! I'll add the parts to the list Cheers for making me see sense
  12. I know that I ought to change the water pump, but I dont have unlimited finances, that's why I'm not rebuilding the top end. So there wil have to be areas that are not done. There is no sign of leakage whatsoever, so fingers crossed!
  13. Hi Guys I need your advice.... Engine is now out and almost clean enough to dismantle. I'm intending to replace crank shells and seals, and basically rebuild the bottom end. Also replacing the clutch and the exhaust manifold, and belt service too. oh and both oil coolers! Now the manual says to check the working faces of the rotor, pump body and annulus for signs of wear, scoring or scuffing. Surely this wear must be measurable?? Do I just replace the pump as a matter of course? Thanks Glyn
  14. Manifold woes!

    Hiya, I need a new manifold for my S4s and read your manifold story. I have a mate who works with stainless at Rolls Royce who can make a manifold for me. Can you let me know all you know re specs that you managed to find out to have yours made? I'm only in Chesterfield and drive past you on my way to Newark, so calling in is no problem.

    Cheers for now,


  15. OK, so engine is now mounted on the engine stand. I had to remove the rear crank seal housing first though. The button head screws were a pain though. All would not budge and ended up rounding the internal hex. I ended up using a dot punch to mark and then knock the screws loose. I thought that the exhaust was blowing due to 2 exhaust studs missing, but on cleaning up the manifold I have foound a hole, so better get saving for a new manifold. The studs look like stainless though, so I wonder if the manifold has been replaced at some time. How do I tell if its a SWLotus one?? The nuts were strange too. None would move so used the chisel tactic to crack them. But they seemed to be made of cast steel?? They came away in chuncks.... Photos are to follow.....
  16. Ok, they're M10 and guess what... no bar in that size! So purchased some extra long bolts - just need to cut off their heads. Clean up job next.......
  17. Thanks Simon I didn't think of that! Any idea of the thread, M8? Cheers Glyn
  18. That's my thinking - at least 4 studs that are full depth.... Any other comments................
  19. Thanks Andy I wonder if threaded bar is the way forward?
  20. Well. I've never been so worried, but the engine/gearbox is now out and on the floor Hard work when you're flying solo..... When I mount the engine to the engine stand, how much thread needs to go into the block? All of the engine/gearbox bolts are too short!! I'll get there in the end! Step by step....... Glyn
  21. Well I'm two engine and gearbox mounts away.guess what I'm doing on bank holiday monday! Cheers guy, if I'm not too filthy I'll try to take some pics Glyn
  22. I was thinking of the chains not the bell housing......
  23. Thanks guys and Paul for pics, but now I'm worried about the strength of the chains, although the unit is rated at 500kg!!
  24. Hi lyn I'm pretty sure it has to come out from above.although the trans axle can go through the bottom. I though my exhaust manifold was holed, but it looks like 2 studs are missing which will be good news! I just need to know the best pick up points to use for the chains. Good luck Glyn
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