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Posts posted by glynherron

  1. Saw her today in her usual position off the road and so wanted to pull up and look at the beautiful interior but the Mrs wouldn't have approved! Well done!!

  2. TBH I've got a reasonable collection of these things - there is no evidence (colour) that suggests they are heat treated/case hardened after they are ground. I suspect they are just a specific grade of steel.

    My engine has been running 'home ground' shims for the last 35k miles with no issues

    That's great news and extremely reassuring.

    Thanks Barry. Working hard to create the time to finish her!

  3. From what I've read, case hardening is typically to a depth of 1.5mm. The shims out there are from various sorces so unknown as to exactly how deep the hardening goes. I spoke to a local engineering shop, who specialise in 'older cars' who always grind the shims (albeit on a surface grinder with a magnetic vice). As I only removed 0.1mm I'm expecting that this will be fine. Time will tell... It's exhaust cam, valve number 4.

  4. Take 2thou off either side with wet & dry on plate glass. It will be absolutely fine (assuming follower doesn't then foul the spring retainer). As a tip for next time! - always shim the valves before fitting the head. You could probably also safely remove 4thou from the valve stem but that would not be a diy option.

    Yippee. ..

    Finished the clearances this morning.

    There are so many variables...

    Feeler blades and their use and feel

    Micrometers and calibration

    Shims from different suppliers

    I reduced the 60 thou shim using 400 grit wet and dry, and if doing this again, would do this on all shims that are withing a few thou.

    You can order shims but in my experience it's hit and miss I'd you receive what you want.

    Thank you to those who helped me with this.

    Anyway next job...

  5. My clutch fork has lasted 62,000 miles, and is still intact (I am assuming it's the original, as I don't see any past bills for a new one). That said, given the track record of the item in question, one never knows when, or if, it might break. I think I shall crack detect it, and do a bit of light polishing to relieve any possible areas of stress. That might be a worthwhile exercise, and I will do so before putting it back again.

    As for whether it's worth having an improved fork manufactured, as usual it'll be down to cost, and how many members would be willing to stump up their hard-earned, I suppose.

    Note for Stimpy: While searching earlier this year, there were no S4s clutch covers available anywhere, so I ended up with an S4s flywheel, drilled to suit the S4 clutch cover bolt pattern. This means I can use either the S4, or S4s clutch. It also means I can use the S4 release bearing, rather than the horrendously-priced £285 S4s version.

    Ian, have you run this clutch yet? Any slippage? Did you leave the step in the flywheel?

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