glynherron
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Posts posted by glynherron
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Ian, mine is buried but if you've not got a pic soon give me a nudge and I'll dig it out.
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Oil stat fitted this afternoon. I did have to file one corners off each fitting to clear the oil filter.
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Travis I'm not familiar with your terms. Do you mean the collets which sit in the valve stem groove? I've not noticed anything peculiar.
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I checked the shims delivered today. The 60 thou came in at 61.
I've mic'd the pad to cam face on all exhaust followers which are the same 223 thou. Can I go thinner than a 60 thou shim by getting one ground down or will it affect mechanical clearances within the valve train?
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Thanks again.
So been at the garage...
On exhaust number 4 with a shim of 61 thou I measured a clearance of just 6 thou. I need another 5 thou. I can get 1 thou from a 60 thou shim.
Where am I doing to get another 4 thou from?
What are the options except from pulling the head again and replacing the valve seat.
Getting really fed up of this!
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks for your help so far. I'm almost there and I do hope that my questions are helpful to others!
So, just a quick update of where I'm at:
Head been reworked, re-assembled and refitted to block.
Clearances measured (dry with no sealant between the cam towers and head).
The clearance spec is 6 thou +/- 1 thou and 11 thou +/- 1 thou
The Lotus notes, say to add 1/2 of 1 thou to the new shims needed to allow for the sealant.
As feeler blades measure to the nearest thou, am I better am I better to shim towards the smallest clearance or the largest?
Am I correct in assuming that wear of the valves and seates tends to make the clearances smaller?
For example, which is the better choice:
Inlet clearance shimmed to 6 thou as per spec. With the added sealant this would increase the clearance to 6.5 thou (above ideal value)
OR
Inlet clearance shimmed to 5 thou. With added sealance, this would increase the clearance to 5.5 thou (under ideal value)
OR am I just overthinking this!
I really hope this makes sense to someone...
Glyn
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I don't believe you need to resort to new tappets. Your thinnest shim is 70 thou and you can go down to 60 thou.
Hi Derek, stupid me, but on re-measuring the shims, it was 80 thou and not 70!
Found some time on Monday and had a play around, managing to get a measurable clearance on all valves except one. Ordered a couple of small shime from QED, which should hopefully arrive today.
The set of shims I've just leant out go down to 75 thou' but I think I do have some down a bit further as part of a Hesketh set.
Thanks Andy for the offer. I've ordeed a couple of shims and hopefully will be able to order what i will now need.
Glyn
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Good boy. Well done!
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Ian yours is genuine as fitted by lotus. Even my 2002 V8 had them!
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A thought just occurred to me...
Fitting the oil stat to a rebuilt engine with new coolers etc will mean everything is dry. When the engine is first filled with oil it will give a false reading. And worse will be when the oil is up to temp and the engine starved of oil whilst the coolers and oil lines full up and the oil level drops.
Drawing my own conclusions now but must the oil cooler pipework be filled and any techniques which folks use?
Glyn
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Ordered from Burton Performance Ian.Where are you ordering from Glyn?
You have PM.
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Thanks Travis.
Ordering now...
Glyn -
Looking at the Mocal MOCTB3 which Travis has fitted, what unions are needed which don't come with the plate? Does it come with the central fitting to tighten it to the main housing? and what size are the fittings connecting between the thermostat housing and the flexy pipes? oh and are the Dowty type washers included?
Thanks
Glyn
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Ian, am I correct in assuming that this has to be assembled after the engine is in the car? I wonder if it's worth fitting the engine mount and leg, then the shields and then screwing the leg to the block?
Anyone done it this way?
Spent all afternoon trying to re shim the valve clearances... wish I had more time to play
Glyn
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Yes, they're about £30 + vat each.
I'm not doing paint, so I shall have to devise another method. But they should have been fitted on the underside to start with.
I had a 2002 v8 before my current s4s which had them like this. Although they are hidden for much of the time they look so much classier.
30 quid! Ouch!
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If I remember correctly they are a lotus only part and stupid money like 10 quid each!Replaced the broken tailgate cable this afternoon, and I'd give the job 2/10 on the Esprit scale of bastardness. Renewed the rollover valve pipework, after some head scratching, too.
Now, the two black top-hat drain fittings at the rear of the car that drain water from the tailgate channel - anyone know what I can use to replace them? The adaptors they fit into are 32mm Marley 45 degree spigot bends, with a 35mm convoluted duct pipe, but I can't find the plastic top hats anywhere, so I'd appreciate a steer if possible.
If you're messing about with these, how about fitting them like the latest model, on the underside. Involves paint though
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We joined at the same time all those years ago. Ahhh...
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Hi Bibs, to be absolutely honest I thought the ffm payment was for the negotiation of discounts etc and not for the running of the site. I assumed the advertising revenue paid for the site.
There are many lotus dealers out there who provide us with spares, who if went out of business would leave us pretty stuffed. 10 percent discount is always taken from their trading margin. For this reason I don't ask for discounts.
Apologies again. Upgraded yesterday.
Brilliant forum. Been here since the early days when Paul C was a regular!
Cheers
Glyn
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I'll bet the bottom of the spring has broken and dropped out. At first glance it will look unbroken until you look at the end of the spring and find its not flat anymore...
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Not a pretty sight
Looks like mine too...
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When I had mine replaced they mentioned having the sealant at the correct operating temperature so that it came out of the gun at the best viscosity...
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Covered the superb new alloy fuel tanks in heat resistant material, and simply popped them back in. Well, I say popped, it was more like struggled on the RH side. The other one fell in.
There's a stray yellow connector on the LH side, anyone know what that's for? I don't remember unplugging it, but it's possible.
EDIT: note for Glynn - I found some heat shield photos I didn't know I had. I'll post them in due course.
Thanks!
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Hi John
The design of the valve assembly means that shims must be fitted. If left out the bucket would foul on the retainer and not act on the valve.
Had same problem when rebuilt mine.
At the end it has been a nightmare to shim the valve due to new valves and seats, your best option is to buy a full set of new tappets....they are designed with thinner inner pad where the shim sits on, so you will gain all the spaces to measure the shims required.
Other option, I will send you my set of spares shims for the Lotus engine, I have nearly 250 of them but they are heavy and the postage will be expensive.
Giorgio
Hi Giorgio
Yes I now understand whst you mean.
If I go too much thinner on the shims the bucket will act on the top retainer. To get the clearance I think that I may need to fo what you suggest. Where did you buy them?
Unless there are any other alternatives?
Maybe cams could be a way forward?
Glyn
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I would love photo's of the heatshields assembled as I've not got a clue!
Valve clearances
in Engine/Ancilliaries
Posted
Georgio earlier in the thread mentions some followers which had thinner pads. If thinner pads work then I would assume thinner shims would too up until they just aren't stiff enough.
Anyone know if the shims are just case hardened or not?