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glynherron

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Posts posted by glynherron

  1. Well, I've looked on the Midwestcontrol link (thanks Sanj) and have found these

     

    http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=1916(I prefer this as it has a booted joint which is filled with a lubricant)

     

    http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=2430

     

    http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=145 (Gary, are these the QR ones which Trev used? How do you intent to keep the joint "clean")

     

    I obviously need to compare lengths to original before I go any further, unless someone has already fitted any of these.

     

    Thanks

     

    Glyn

  2. Hello all

     

    Does anyone in the UK have a supplier for the rod ends for both the translator and also the cables and part numbers, (btw what sizes are they) as all I can seem to find are not of the studded kind (is they have a hole rather than a stud).

     

    Secondly, can non studded ones be fitted, and just bolted up, or will this method not have enough clearance for the mechanism to work?

     

    Thanks

  3. Wishing to avoid being the harbinger of doom but the gearbox magnetic plug is more of an indication of gearbox health rather than a tool for removing debris.(or more correctly bits that are failing)

    Nick S4s

    I completely agree. But better to trap broken bits than have them floating around freely and wreck the cwp :)

  4. I have a 1995 Esprit S4, and the drain plug seems to be leaking a little. Any ideas how to stop it other than cranking a bit more torque on?

    Also can I get a new one in the UK, and what is this 'magnet' version for?

    Thanks.

    The magnet is to trap any small metallic particles and also bigger stuff if needed. You'll be amazed what comes out!

  5. Took off rings yesterday without an issue.

    The ring grooves are really gunked up especially the top groove which has no ring.

    What do you use to clean out the grooves?

    I've also looked on the workshop manual and expected to see gap sizes when the rings are fitted to the bores to calculate serviceability but found nothing. Have I just missed them?

    Thanks

    Glyn

    There are piston ring expander tools available. I have one made by Blue Point, but there are many others. They support the ring during removal and replacement. I've used it many times, and never broke a ring yet.

    Thanks

    not so important Travis.. the rings are moving al the time around...while engine running

    but for (between the ears ) I agree

    normally Glen, you renew used rings ,

    the rings are bed-in ( running in) into the cylinders, and so are the cylinders ( a bit )

    so if you use used rings in used cylinders , you get oil consumption , they never running in again

    and if you use new rings, let the cylinders honing again, ( not the normal way, because they are nikasil they must "lapping" the cylinders ) if it is alusil the honing work is different, then with nikasil)

    use cast iron rings, the running in time is short, as Travis mentioned the rings lotus used, are cast iron (they broke)

    if there is no other way than use old rings, use R.I.C. (running in compound) from BP, to let them running in.

    greetings sietse // holland

    Hi Sietse

    I've kept the rings with their respective liners including orientation.

    Can you explain why they will need running in again and why oil consumption will go up.

    Thanks

    Glyn

  6. Hi Glyn

    Yes I was a bit thin on detail wasn't i?

    I used a paint stripper to remove the old crinkle paint, then used a flex shaft and wire brush to abrade all the surface to be painted.

    I used a file to remove any damage to the ribs, and then repolished them using 1200 wet and dry and finally solvol autosol.

    The gasket faces also needed refinishing with 1200 wet and dry.

    I then degreased the whole component using thinners.

    I masked all the ribs, using a Lino knife to cut alongside the polished rib faces and oil filler neck.

    I also masked the entire gasket face to stop paint spoiling that surface and entering the cam cover internal cavity.

    No primer was used, as per Frosts instructions. Also I was not able to identify a high temp primer.

    About 3 or 4 dust coats to build the colour.

    Then u need a reasonably heavy coat of the crinkle red to get the wrinkle to appear. The crinkles appear gradually during the drying process. After initial drying (24 hrs) I put the part on a radiator indoors for a further 24 hrs.

    It's now safe to remove the masking with care. Any small tails of paint left by the masking tape can be carefully removed with a piece of 1200 wet and dry.

    I got two cans of the paint on ebay for under £20.

    U may prefer to paint without masking and then expose the fin and letters by abrasion. I was concerned that the paint would chip around the fin edges so opted for masking.

    Anyhow - good luck!

    Gibbie

    Thanks Gibbie for taking the time to reply in such detail. It is much appreciated.

    Glyn

    Hi Glyn

    Yes I was a bit thin on detail wasn't i?

    I used a paint stripper to remove the old crinkle paint, then used a flex shaft and wire brush to abrade all the surface to be painted.

    I used a file to remove any damage to the ribs, and then repolished them using 1200 wet and dry and finally solvol autosol.

    The gasket faces also needed refinishing with 1200 wet and dry.

    I then degreased the whole component using thinners.

    I masked all the ribs, using a Lino knife to cut alongside the polished rib faces and oil filler neck.

    I also masked the entire gasket face to stop paint spoiling that surface and entering the cam cover internal cavity.

    No primer was used, as per Frosts instructions. Also I was not able to identify a high temp primer.

    About 3 or 4 dust coats to build the colour.

    Then u need a reasonably heavy coat of the crinkle red to get the wrinkle to appear. The crinkles appear gradually during the drying process. After initial drying (24 hrs) I put the part on a radiator indoors for a further 24 hrs.

    It's now safe to remove the masking with care. Any small tails of paint left by the masking tape can be carefully removed with a piece of 1200 wet and dry.

    I got two cans of the paint on ebay for under £20.

    U may prefer to paint without masking and then expose the fin and letters by abrasion. I was concerned that the paint would chip around the fin edges so opted for masking.

    Anyhow - good luck!

    Gibbie

    Thanks for taking the time to reply in such detail.

    Much appreciated

    Glyn

  7. I'm in the process of rebuilding an s4s motor with 55000miles on the clock. It is costing far more money than anticipated. Even though I'm just a maths teacher and realise that the oil doesn't get everywhere to cause damage the percent cost of oil vs the cost of a rebuild is so small. Having been through this I would use good oil every time.

  8. No. I followed up Bibs lead on Colorcote. They say they did indeed do the s4 cam covers etc.. However they do not supply paint now. They can offer to redo your cam covers, inter cooler etc but you will obviously be off the road for a while.

    Simon is correct in suggesting that the Frost paint is not an exact match. But u can see from my picture it's not bad.

    Gibbie

    Hi Gibbie

    Just a quick bit of info please...

    How did you prepare the aluminium?

    Did you mask off the "fins" or sand the paint off afterwards?

    Did you use painstriper first? Any primer? Oven bake?

    Looking to do this on mine while I'm waiting for various other parts before the final build.

    Cheers

    Glyn

  9. There's nothing wrong with boring out and collapsing the thin wall that's left out but you would only do this if replacing the whole guide. The Rapid Technologies repair sleeves are similar to the K-Line or Nucleus sleeving systems.

    Agreed. Sorry if I was unclear.

    If replacing the whole guide he bores them and collapses but not for the inserts.

    Thanks

  10. That service was about $370 in american.

    I would make sure they use the correct valve guides! The intake guides are cast iron, and the exhaust are silicon-bronze.

    Valve seats are sintered steel.

    Hi Travis. Thanks for your feedback.

    He doesn't like to press out the old guides in case they pick up on the way out. He also doesn't like to heat heads up and prefers to bore them out and collapse them in.

    He fits Rapid Technologies repair sleeves which he has used for many years.

    Bad idea?

    Should I go somewhere else

    He specialises in vintage and classic engine repair

    Thanks

    Glyn

  11. On to the next step...

    Pistons numbered and out on the bench.

    I'm yet to read the service notes on the wear parameters but supposing they do not need replacing:

    For each piston do the rings have to be refitted the same way around ie not upside down within the groove?

    How to take them off

    How to clean the oil control ring

    How to replace

    I hope this makes sense!

    Thanks as always

    Glyn

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