actwon

Hey All I have a question. Since I am rebuilding my engine, I was wondering if the oil pump is self priming? If it is not, any suggestions on how to prime it? I know that the 4cyl's are not self-priming.

Does anyone have a documented procedure for this? Sound like it would be a good tutorial.

Ok, let's try this one. Important question: When your calipers lock up, does your brake pedal rise back to standard position or does it sit closer to the floor?

WOW!!! Great!!! Another person we can corrupt! Muwahhhhaaahhaahhaa... Good luck with getting an Exige. Welcome to the forum! Nice sculptures!

I called Harry about it, the answer I received was inconclusive. Actually, the tech was looking for some for me, but never got back to me. Artie, Thanks for the info. I've tried Harry. I haven't tried Claudius. I'll call your people in Florida. If they have a lot of Hylomar in stock, it's not 3400. It's more than likely Universal Blue. 3400 is about $100us per tube. That's a little pricey to stock with low volume engine rebuilds.

Ok.... Hmm, not sure what else to tell you. You have a '99; so that means you have the Brembo fronts. The only other thing I can think of is that you may need to rebuild both fronts. However, that doesn't make sense to me. The odds of both calipers locking up at the same time is high. <-- Huge shot in the dark! What type of Brake Fluid are you using? That could be your culprit. If you use to incorrect type of fluid, it can damage your brake/abs system. It can, possibly, cause your caliper locking up. Now that I think of it, it may be your fluid. Use mineral DOT 4 only. Do not use DOT 5 specified fluid. I hope this helps you.

Just stuff like people's dash's were starting to crack becuase of it. However, in retrospect, it was during the late 80's early 90's. So I'm sure they have changed their formula several times since.

They recommend against using anything else. The original was Loctite 572, but that is a serious problem on the v8's. Tentenths and Simon, I've done that already. They don't import 3400. There are 2 US Distributors, 1 only imports UNiversal Blue and the actual "Hylomar USA" has pointed me to a few small retailers who sell it for almost $200 (

First question: 1. Are both calipers locked up? If so, I would stay away from the ABS system. You could be causing more harm than fixing the issue. 2. Have you checked the vacuum hose? (It is a large diameter hose in the front of the motor, usually attached to the red wastegate vacuum hose). Squeeze the hose to see if there is pressure in the hose. If so, there is something in the vacuum system that is keeping the pressure from being released. 3. If neither of these are the issue, have you bled the system? <-- Shot in the dark..... 4.

Well, I am learning that there is always 1 thing that keeps you from rebuilding one of these motors. In my case it's Hylomar 3400! Does anyone have any Hylomar 3400? I can't seem to find any anywhere. Of course the local auto parts store doesn't have any and I've been told that Lotus USA is out of stock and I need some, like, very quickly. Any help is always appreciated!

Simon, They may want ot use something else. Armour All here in the states causes havok on rubber and plastic parts. I remember another product called Finish2001. I used to use this on my old car. It was great! Is that available over there?

LOL.... OH!!! I read my post... I meant to add, it's a 2 person job. You NEED someone there to watch out for lines that may be in the way or didn't get disconnected while you are lifting the engine out of the bay.

Jim, It does not take that long ot remove a v8 motor. You don't have to remove the hatch to do it. It takes all but 10 minutes to remove the boot (8cyl does not have that distributor on our boots). You only need to drain the coolant and/or the gearbox oil (only if you are taking the gearbox out with it). I don't consider draining fluid to add to work time as you will be doing something else while the fluid is draining. It took me 1.5 hours to pull out my motor. It is not that difficult, if you take your time and document/label hoses and wiring.

If you have the proper tools, removing the v8 is very easy. There are a couple of tight lines, the air-con lines being one of them. When you disconnect your fuel rail and injectors from their power connectors, make sure you label which connector came off whic injector. THIS WILL SAVE YOU LOTS OF TIME, when you put it together. Basically, pull the exhaust, disconnect fuel lines, vacuum hoses and various other bits, you can have the motor out in about 1.5 hours. With or without the gearbox.

I had a set of W10's. I hated them! They gave a lot of vibration through the stereing column and a lot of road noise. As for the 9000's or SP9000's, I have no experience with them. I have ran the Michelin Pilot Sports and I now have a set of SUmitomo's amd they are GREAT!!! My Nike's come in third place. Excellent grip, it's cornering ability is a little shaky though... On your mark, get set...........

I have that problem with my suspension. I have installed Spax's all around. The front of my car sits 25.4mm higher thanit's supposed to. I was told that Lotus used a taller softer spring in my car. Well, the problem is I cannot find anyone who makes a shorter, stiffer spring for it. Called Eibach and I got the run-around there. Won't even make anything custom for me. So, now I'm stuck with a cr that sits higher than I want it to. I actually wanted to lower the front from 101.6mm to 76.2mm in the front and minus 25.4mm from whatever the rear is, currently.

Glyn, HOw do you drop the radiator cluster? I need to get to the radiator to check it and my aircon condensor. I can't seem to find any instructions or picture how-to's.

As bells and whistles descend from the heavens, a ray of light shines onto the body we know as Marcus Dude, THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That at least stopped the noise. The climate control was on face withthe a/c option. Why does it do that?

I like the fan with the billet aluminum cover. Very nice looking!

Although possible, highly unlikely. The reason being is that the cat sits on the exhaust side of the turbos, which pushes the air through the exhaust system. Although there is a little suction once the throttle is closed (depends on how much pressure was built up in the entire system), there isn't enough to pull particles from the cat, up to the exhaust manifold and through the exhaust side of the turbo. If you have BOVs there is, even, a smaller chance of this happening. It is likely that if there is debris, it will be pushed out before anything happens. If you're that concerned, pull the cats and run the car without them for a short period of time (just let the car idle with a few blips of the throttle). You CEL light will come on, because you have disconnected the O2 sensors. After that, shake out your cats, re-install and clear your CEL. You should be fine. Oh, you may want to take out your boot, as the flow of exhaust air will change and be directed straight at your boot and could melt or malform it. Also, keep the rear decklid open so that the exhaust air has a place to go. Just my $.02 or

Neal, That noise you mentioned here in the States over Mobil 1 Wasn't Gold cap over Silver Cap. It was between Red Cap and the Gold Cap (extended performance). Personally, I have never used the gold cap, as I still have red cap available to me (actually, 1 oil change away from depleting my supply). After that supply has been depleted, I am switching to Redline 15w50.

Hey guys! Thanks for the answers. I assume the gears are straight cut? I like the idea of saving my 1/2 syncros.. I'm interested. I'll submit my info on your website.

Yes, you need to purchase a new one. I would not recommend driving your car with this piece broken. This is a 2 piece unit. If the broken portion of the sensor unscrews itself while you are driving, your oil WILL evacuate your oil pan, QUICKLY! I would advise you to let it sit until you get the new sensor.