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  1. Hello Everyone,


    It's been a long time since I have posted or replied to anything. I hope this finds everyone in good spirits!


    My question is does anyone have a full schematic of the v8 ECM? I have the EMM sections, but this is not what I am looking for. Any help is appreciated.

  2. Hey all!

    I hope everyone's driving season has been great. I have a few questions.

    1) Is anyone running increased boost on stock head bolts? If so, how much boost

    are you running?

    2) What is the maximum boost the stock head bolts can handle?

    I'm doing some preliminary work on some modifications. I am planning on doing

    motor work and trying to decide if I should go with studs or stock head bolts.

    My concern is accessibility. I only plan on removing the engine for my piston

    upgrade. after that it will be cylinder head work, but I want to do it in-car.

    know that if I install studs, I will need to almost remove the engine to get the

    cylinder heads off whereas with stock bolts, they can come off with the head.

    However tensile strength of the stock bolts are in question as I an planning on

    running high boost (of course, determined by the temps of the exhaust manifold).

    Any insight will be helpful.

  3. Nathan one of my mates here in NZ just had this happen a few months ago to his 2000V8. He tried all the options of getting it fixed locally and off shore and ended up getting one out from PUK.

    More to the point you need to get to the source of the problem so it doesnt happen again. $$$ In regards to his problem it was traced to the coils burning out his ECU. I plan on doing preventative maintenence on this soon.

    Good luck.

    Coils, huh??? That's very interesting. I'll take a look at mine.


  4. Has all this info been added to the wiki? If so please tell me where as I am at a loss to find it.




    I'm noit sure if it has been added to the wiki. I started this thread a while ago. You could start at the beginning where the majority of information lives and scan through the thread for additions. I need to update the original posting though. When I get some time I will do that.

  5. Thanks Jonathan,

    I think Lotus sold plug covers with evap holes. Someone mentioned them previously. Not cheap though. Plus, I don't like the idea of water getting in and then being expected to evaporate out again.

    Just a little update. I've just been to have the car cleaned, and the plug covers and plenum are bone dry! B)



    Quick question...

    Do you have the rubber gaskets that are supposed to be under the spark plug cover? These are supposed to keep the water from getting to your spark plugs.

  6. That will make at least two cheap juddering and stuttering V8's on the market then "Cheap"!!

    Dont give up! My sport 350 judders occasionally ,mainly when I havent used it for a while.

    Also when I use it for the first time after say a month it crunches first gear for the first say 20 times after that its ok !!

    I put both of these down to two things.The shaft sticking slightly in the clutch and the clutch being worn.I think my car has now done 26k on the original clutch so it must be nearly gone (although it feels ok ).

    I aloso noticed mine less after we replace the engine/gearbox mounts.

    If the excessive grease was melting and getting on the plates this would make the juddering worse I would have thought?

    Just a thought but were the cheaper plates recon or a different make THAN o/e?

    Having said all that I used it to go to Heatrow on Friday and did it judder on the M25 carpark ...NO! But it also didnt fire on 8 cylinders all the way home....I love Lotus's :)


    Sport 350

    Is your friction plate facing the flywheel correctly? There should have been a stamp on the friction plate that says "This Side Towards Flywheel"

  7. The first thing I checked was the stereo (OEM), and then checked other electronics too... The alternator sounds suspicious but then again I'm not too sure. I drove in an '02 last year for several days and it did not have that same sound (quieter cabin).

    Where do you live? Perhaps someone close to you can come and help out.

  8. Hi Guys,

    Has anyone replaced the turbo oil feed and cooling pipes with s/s items?

    It seems a simple thing to do but as yet it would appear no one has them tooled up.

    Pete at PNM was going to have them available last year and after a few reminders still no word from him.

    Geoff at Esprit Eng. has asked his local supplier of Aeroquip to make some to a set of pattern parts . result zilch in the progress dept.

    Looks like we could do with a friendly aero engineer / V8 owner to pattern and tool up these items. who do we have 'On the Books' ???

    I am rather loathe to replace them with the standard short life plated items.


    I've replaced them with S/S lines and Earl's/Aeroquip fittings. Don't know if you guys can get those in the UK. I can put together a "kit" to sell and install instructions (without pics) to sell.

  9. Does the whining go away when you let off the throttle? YES.. It goes away until I either rev the engine or speed up. If I'm driving at 40 and put it in neutral, then the whining decreases significantly, buy as soon as I engage a gear and the rev goes up the sound increases.

    I will check my belts... the car is still quite new and the belts seem fine by visual and touch. I'll have to take it in for an inspection. I'll try to take a sound bite but that might be difficult. It is not a super loud whine... It's a consistant whine (bit of a buzz to it).. It reminds me of an old aftermarket stereo amp I had in my Honda... When ever I had my headlights on and increased speed, it would buzz and whine.... That's as close as I can describe it.. Thanks guys for the info.

    Do you have an after market stereo system? Is it a vendor other than Alpine? If so, it could be that your power wires for your stereo, amp, whatever is ran next to your speaker wires. This will cause that type of whining. Is your stereo on while you are driving? if so, turn it off and see if you still get the noise.

  10. Had the same problem, everyone tells me its idle learn, Its a gm system and not that bad at learning. if you have idling problems when warmed up and its been driven a while, disconect purge solonoid under rear window, if idling fault goes away drive it may be canister fault.


    Well everyone, thanks for the info, however my problem was not an idle learn issue. I have an Apex'i S-AFC and it wasn't passing MAP values to the ecu. So, the ECU was calibrating for a bad MAP sensor. I have disconnected the S-AFC bypass until I get test a few connections. Thanks to all who helped.

  11. Need to pick your brains. Have a 2001 Esprit V8, US model. It has been in storage for a couple of months with the battery disconnected. When it was re-connected and fired up everything worked normally for a short time .... then the security alarm went off. No indicator on the dash, just the siren. It sounds for about 10 seconds then goes off. Pauses for a couple of minutes then goes off again. Very annoying.

    How do I either address the issue that's setting the alarm off, or find the siren to disconnect it ???


    Have you used your key FOB to turn it off?

  12. Sounds an awful lot like the exhaust heat shield. They are truly crap quality and regularly split, crack and rattle. R&B in Germany do some much stronger guage replacements, which fit perfectly. Unfortunately, the LH one is a real b@stard to replace in situ. You would need to remove the Aircon compressor to get reasonable access.

    Some folks just try to weld them, but they will break again.......


    Mike S


    So over the weekend I checked my heat shield (it was broken, so I removed it). I pulled off the cat to check for loose debris (found none in the turbo, nor the cat). The car still makes that rattling sound. :thumbsup::thumbup: The rattling noise sounds like chatter from a 6 puck clutch disk.

    I drove it on Saturday. It got worse once I hit 40mph. It's loud and very constant. I hate to do this, but seeing though I have no more time to dedicate to this, I must take it to the dealer. I'm thinking a bolt is loose on my clutch. I just don't have the time to unbolt and slide my tranny back to inspect my clutch.

  13. Sounds an awful lot like the exhaust heat shield. They are truly crap quality and regularly split, crack and rattle. R&B in Germany do some much stronger guage replacements, which fit perfectly. Unfortunately, the LH one is a real b@stard to replace in situ. You would need to remove the Aircon compressor to get reasonable access.

    Some folks just try to weld them, but they will break again.......


    Mike S

    Thanks! Yeah, the consensus believes that it is the heat shield. I will try to get at it through the wheel well this evening or tomorrow and remove it. I will let you guys know if it is that. I have spent a lot of cash and put in a lot of time rebuilding this motor (yes, I rebuilt it myself... YIPEE!!!), so I am hoping that the heat shield is the culprit. It's cool to have a resource such as you guys. Thanks.

  14. My guess would be either the cat or heat shield. In my case it was the cat on my '01 with 6k miles. Either should be covered by the emission warranty. Easy to tell if it's the cat, simply give it a good rap with your hand and you will hear the guts rattling. You might also get a lean left bank or similar CEL/code.


    I'm looking into the heat shield. See, if it's that uy (I hope so). I don't get CEL codes (Johan's ECU). I will tap the cat though and see if it's that guy.


  15. All,

    I have attached a sound bite. It sounds like something is rattling in the turbo or my tranny/clutch. The car moves when I put it in gear with no abnormal noises. So, I suspect turbo.

    :blush: I do not hear the rattling while it is idling, but when I throttle it to 2 grand and above, I hear it on the increase and decrease of RPMs. The noise is coming from the LH rear of the car, halfway to the rear wheel. Any ideas? Thanks.


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