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actwon

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  1. Hey All

    I have a question. Since I am rebuilding my engine, I was wondering if the oil pump is self priming? If it is not, any suggestions on how to prime it? I know that the 4cyl's are not self-priming.

  2. What about the lotus specialists over there????

    Have you contacted them to see what they use??? or if they have any Hylomar you can have from them??? they must be using it if its the only recoomended product!!!!

    Also what do the dealers do if an engine needs a rebuild???? ship it back to the uk???? Don't sound right to me..

    Simon

    I called Harry about it, the answer I received was inconclusive. Actually, the tech was looking for some for me, but never got back to me.

    Have you checked with Harry at Viking Motorsports? HOw about Claudius at LotusPBC? He is open on Saturday, give him a try. Also, I know rotary engines use Hylomar to seal the water jackets and the housings together. Try Pettit Racing in florida.. Ask for Kandy, she builds the engines for me. (561)844-2258... NOw that said, I'm not sure what version of Hylomar they use but worth a try. I know they'd have tons in stock as they rebuild a few engines weekly.

    Artie

    Artie,

    Thanks for the info. I've tried Harry. I haven't tried Claudius. I'll call your people in Florida. If they have a lot of Hylomar in stock, it's not 3400. It's more than likely Universal Blue. 3400 is about $100us per tube. That's a little pricey to stock with low volume engine rebuilds.

  3. Yes both calipers lock up. I removed the fuse for the ABS system, for fear of damage, prior to starting to trouble shoot.

    I have not but sure will check the vacuum hose tonight.

    Bleeding the system was one of the first things I tried, and please give me any other "shots in the dark".

    Thanks

    Ok....

    Hmm, not sure what else to tell you. You have a '99; so that means you have the Brembo fronts. The only other thing I can think of is that you may need to rebuild both fronts. However, that doesn't make sense to me. The odds of both calipers locking up at the same time is high. <-- Huge shot in the dark!

    What type of Brake Fluid are you using? That could be your culprit. If you use to incorrect type of fluid, it can damage your brake/abs system. It can, possibly, cause your caliper locking up. Now that I think of it, it may be your fluid. Use mineral DOT 4 only. Do not use DOT 5 specified fluid.

    I hope this helps you.

  4. Really??

    Thats not good to hear.....

    It says its a plastic and rubber conditioner though????

    Used it on my sidewalls and on my old 205GTI on the plastic trims, thought It'd be better than that 'Back to Cack' stuff which is just like a black varnish and leaves much everywhere...... Like on my laptop bag...!!!! ;)

    This is the stuff I use... is it the same as what your talking about??

    Better keep an eye on it and make sure it isnt causing an issue.. what kinda things were happening????

    Not sure about finish 2001, will take a look.....

    Simon

    Just stuff like people's dash's were starting to crack becuase of it. However, in retrospect, it was during the late 80's early 90's. So I'm sure they have changed their formula several times since.

  5. dont know of anywhere that would have any but could always email lotus technical and ask if they have an alternative?

    They recommend against using anything else. The original was Loctite 572, but that is a serious problem on the v8's.

    Worth trying Hylomar's US distributors?

    Tentenths and Simon,

    I've done that already. They don't import 3400. There are 2 US Distributors, 1 only imports UNiversal Blue and the actual "Hylomar USA" has pointed me to a few small retailers who sell it for almost $200 (

  6. My 99' has decided to lock up the front brake calipers. I had to hit the brakes hard at about 45 MPH, brakes worked perfect as I stopped short of the other 9 cars in the pile up.

    I drove about a mile to a stop light where the brake pedal felt "hard". When I took off from the stop light (or tried to) it was as if I had installed a line lock. I was forced to do smokey burn outs to get the car off the road. Had to have the car put on tow truck to get it home. Front brakes were locked up solid. I cracked the brake lines loose on the Kelsey Hayes unit and the front brakes released. Wow that was easy...wrong, problem still exists. I step on the brakes easy just one time and the front brakes stay locked untill I release the pressure.

    Anyone have a clue as to what might be going on? Which Kelsey Hayes unit do I have on this 99'?

    Thanks for any help!

    First question:

    1. Are both calipers locked up?

    If so, I would stay away from the ABS system. You could be causing more harm than fixing the issue.

    2. Have you checked the vacuum hose? (It is a large diameter hose in the front of the motor, usually attached to the red wastegate vacuum hose).

    Squeeze the hose to see if there is pressure in the hose. If so, there is something in the vacuum system that is keeping the pressure from being released.

    3. If neither of these are the issue, have you bled the system? <-- Shot in the dark.....

    4.

  7. Well, I am learning that there is always 1 thing that keeps you from rebuilding one of these motors. In my case it's Hylomar 3400! Does anyone have any Hylomar 3400? I can't seem to find any anywhere. Of course the local auto parts store doesn't have any and I've been told that Lotus USA is out of stock and I need some, like, very quickly. Any help is always appreciated!

  8. Try armour-all in the uk, think its kinda the same stuss as just mentioned......

    Keeps it moist.......

    mmmmmmmmmmm................... moist............... ;)

    Simon,

    They may want ot use something else. Armour All here in the states causes havok on rubber and plastic parts. I remember another product called Finish2001. I used to use this on my old car. It was great! Is that available over there?

  9. Please forgive me if you read this before, I tried to download it at weekend but I cant seem to see it

    so i am trying again !!

    Hi Everyone,

    I'm Bill & new to the forum, however I have been an Esprit owner for 3 years

    & have seen the website before but never logged on a forum.

    I am looking for a little help or suggestions from fellow V8 owners.

    My car is impossible to start when hot, which doesn

  10. I don't think lifting the body is the way to go. There are several anchor points that are not easy to get to and involve removing quite a bit of stuff to be able to access.

    Pulling the engine could be an option particularly if you can take care of any other issues at the same time. Removal in 1 1/2 hours is quite optimistic though as it would take that long to remove the hatch, boot floor and drain all the fluids. It takes me 3 1/2 - 4 hours to pull a 4 cyl engine and that's having done it a few times with all the necessary tools including a lift and hoist.

    Dropping the engine might work by removing the motor/tranny mounts but I'm not that familiar with the V8 to say one way or the other...

    Good luck!

    Jim,

    It does not take that long ot remove a v8 motor. You don't have to remove the hatch to do it. It takes all but 10 minutes to remove the boot (8cyl does not have that distributor on our boots). You only need to drain the coolant and/or the gearbox oil (only if you are taking the gearbox out with it). I don't consider draining fluid to add to work time as you will be doing something else while the fluid is draining.

    It took me 1.5 hours to pull out my motor. It is not that difficult, if you take your time and document/label hoses and wiring.

  11. I'm gonna sound like Teigan here I know, but I'm just weighing up my alternatives for changing this fuel tank. It has occured to me that if i could lift the body by 3 or 4 inches then removal of the fuel tank would be quite straight forward, has anyone tried this sort of thing?

    And removing the engine itself, how involved is this on a v8?

    If you have the proper tools, removing the v8 is very easy. There are a couple of tight lines, the air-con lines being one of them. When you disconnect your fuel rail and injectors from their power connectors, make sure you label which connector came off whic injector. THIS WILL SAVE YOU LOTS OF TIME, when you put it together.

    Basically, pull the exhaust, disconnect fuel lines, vacuum hoses and various other bits, you can have the motor out in about 1.5 hours. With or without the gearbox.

  12. I had a set of W10's. I hated them! They gave a lot of vibration through the stereing column and a lot of road noise. As for the 9000's or SP9000's, I have no experience with them. I have ran the Michelin Pilot Sports and I now have a set of SUmitomo's amd they are GREAT!!! My Nike's come in third place. Excellent grip, it's cornering ability is a little shaky though... ;) On your mark, get set...........

  13. Hi all,

    I've put all the new suspension on the car now including new top and bottom ball joints on the front. I have yet to check the geometry but i went for a drive just now and its an improvement over the old . The damping is much better very noticable on the rear when cornering on an undulating road or a corner with a dip, the old setup used to wallow quite badly. Also the ride is much smoother not so much 'crashing' when going over pot holes etc.

    I'm not sure how knackered the old shocks were, they are 10 yrs old and 30000 miles, i do think that they could have got away with a slightly stiffer spring, Its not that there soft its just i like a hard ride :thumbsup:

    As for the ride height the rear looks the same but the front looks higher and i'm running on the lower setting, i think that if you use the higher setting then the car would look high at the front . You can move the spring platform 10mm down which at a guess equates to about a 20mm drop in ride height. So if i was running the standard setting it would look odd! i can get 3 fingers between the front wheelarch and the tyre about 55mm.

    I'm gonna go and take a measurement under the car to get the proper ride height

    cheers Andy

    Ok the ride hight measure from under the front crossmember is 180mm with car empty it should be 170mm with 2 pax.

    I should have measure it b4 i started , oh well it could be that the front springs were saging they were pretty rusty

    cheers Andy

    I have that problem with my suspension. I have installed Spax's all around. The front of my car sits 25.4mm higher thanit's supposed to. I was told that Lotus used a taller softer spring in my car. Well, the problem is I cannot find anyone who makes a shorter, stiffer spring for it. Called Eibach and I got the run-around there. Won't even make anything custom for me. So, now I'm stuck with a cr that sits higher than I want it to. I actually wanted to lower the front from 101.6mm to 76.2mm in the front and minus 25.4mm from whatever the rear is, currently.

  14. On my 52V8 the radiator looked clear from the front, but when I dropped the radiator stack the debris had gone throught the condensor of the aircon and was seriously clogging the radiator (smaller clearance between the fins)

    I know its a pain, I would drop the stack and clean out the fins

    Expect bolts to shear and it to be a pain in the A**

    Glyn

    Glyn,

    HOw do you drop the radiator cluster? I need to get to the radiator to check it and my aircon condensor. I can't seem to find any instructions or picture how-to's.

  15. Glyn,

    Sorry the V8 does NOT have an electric pump NOR a mechanical one. The vacuum thats only used for the climate controls is taken directly from the intake manifold/plenum and stored in a vacuum tank located in the left hand engine compartement just above the left hand fuel tank.

    The noise you hear may actually come from the climate control mechanism. Please do a test and turn the climate control knob to the most left (air down to the feet) position. In this position you should not hear that noise.

    Please check and report.

    Cheers

    Marcus

    www.PUKesprit.de

    As bells and whistles descend from the heavens, a ray of light shines onto the body we know as Marcus

    Dude, THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That at least stopped the noise. The climate control was on face withthe a/c option. Why does it do that?

  16. Mat

    Quite right I was told not to drive the car since it's possible for fragments of the disintegrated cat to be pulled back into the turbo which could subsequently be damaged and then bits of that end up in your engine causing major problems.

    Although possible, highly unlikely. The reason being is that the cat sits on the exhaust side of the turbos, which pushes the air through the exhaust system. Although there is a little suction once the throttle is closed (depends on how much pressure was built up in the entire system), there isn't enough to pull particles from the cat, up to the exhaust manifold and through the exhaust side of the turbo. If you have BOVs there is, even, a smaller chance of this happening.

    It is likely that if there is debris, it will be pushed out before anything happens. If you're that concerned, pull the cats and run the car without them for a short period of time (just let the car idle with a few blips of the throttle). You CEL light will come on, because you have disconnected the O2 sensors. After that, shake out your cats, re-install and clear your CEL. You should be fine.

    Oh, you may want to take out your boot, as the flow of exhaust air will change and be directed straight at your boot and could melt or malform it. Also, keep the rear decklid open so that the exhaust air has a place to go. Just my $.02 or

  17. What is your take on the new formulations of fully synthetics:

    1. Mobil One 15W/50 vs Mobil One 15W/50 (same name)

    2. Castrol Edge Sport 10W/60 vs Castrol RS 10W/60

    In particular for the Mobil One, there was a lot of noise on the US Esprit forum, that the previous formulation (gold cap - Extended Performance) was much worse than its predecessor (silver cap - with Supersyn), though the new formulation appears better.

    Neal,

    That noise you mentioned here in the States over Mobil 1 Wasn't Gold cap over Silver Cap. It was between Red Cap and the Gold Cap (extended performance). Personally, I have never used the gold cap, as I still have red cap available to me (actually, 1 oil change away from depleting my supply). After that supply has been depleted, I am switching to Redline 15w50.

  18. This is exactly correct. The new ratios will enable a higher speed before shift is required. The step between gear 1 and 2 has been lowered enabling an easier synchro transition.

    Thanks for your interest.

    Craig

    Hey guys! Thanks for the answers. I assume the gears are straight cut? I like the idea of saving my 1/2 syncros.. :coffee: I'm interested. I'll submit my info on your website.

  19. I was changing my oil today when this piece came apart. I assume I need to buy a new one? Can I put the plug in and drive the car without hooking the electricals back up to the plug?

    Thanks!!

    Yes, you need to purchase a new one. I would not recommend driving your car with this piece broken. This is a 2 piece unit. If the broken portion of the sensor unscrews itself while you are driving, your oil WILL evacuate your oil pan, QUICKLY!

    I would advise you to let it sit until you get the new sensor.

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