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Nigel

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About Nigel

  • Birthday 08/10/1965

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  • Name
    Nigel Patterson
  • Car
    1989 Esprit Turbo SE

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  1. I can't get my laptop to communicate with the ECU using an ALDL USB cable bought from the LEF online shop in Aug 2008 (it doesn't take me long to try these things out). I loaded the software on a Vista based laptop and pointed Vista to the USB drivers folder when I plugged the cable in. Device Manager looks ok and initially the serial port was set to COM20. On starting the Freescan application a message is displayed "The system cannot find the file specified" when I set the COM port in Freescan's drop down menu (to port 20, the only option available) the same message is displayed again. When I press 'start' after this a warning message is displayed "Warning: Wait Communication() failed with the following error: the handle is invalid Port 20 and "Program C\...Freescan.exe abnormal program termination" and Freescan is closed. I have tried altering the COM port in Device Manager and altering the 100ms settting. Thanks for any advice
  2. I've been rolling around under the car last week renewing brake pipes and overhauling the brake callipers (car has been off the road for over 2 years). I have a target of 6th April to have it on the road as we've booked a hotel in Pitlochry that weekend. Unfortunately I won't be able to make the 1st, don't think it'll be ready in time, sounds like it will be a good day.
  3. Nigel

    Rimmel London

    Hello all, I seen this advert on tv a couple of nights ago http://www.rimmellondon.com/uk/products/scandaleyes/?gclid=CJe5jc3Bkq0CFVBlfAod2F51lQ# Possibly a GT3? Nigel
  4. Justin, I had exactly the same coating of oil on my rear bumper a couple of years ago. The oil was coming from the turbo return pipe, the one that goes to the sump and it was at the turbo end of the pipe. Nigel
  5. James, If you're passing I can have a look at it. Don't think I'm too far from you (North Queensferry). Got a spare engine sitting, so could change temperature sender if that is suspect. Nigel
  6. Thanks for all your replies, it's taken a turn for the worse. Binnacle came off no sweat in about 20 minutes. Eventually managed to loosen the water valve securing nut (8mm), I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with 12" extension. The nut can be accessed (pay attention) by passing the socket between the clutch pedal and the steering column, you won't be able to see it. Have drained heater by disconnecting the pipes under the front of the car. Once that was off, I could tilt the valve and see that when the lever is pulled to fully hot only in the last bit of movement is the movement being transfered to the actual valve. I think that is what I am looking at, it's difficult to see as I still don't have the valve out. Can't get screw out securing capillary bulb and can't pull pipes off valve. I am working in the hole that is left when the binnacle is removed, although I can only get my forearms halfway in. Have decided to take interior trim off as I have a few jobs to do under there (replace aerial, colour leather, renew front speedo cable, fix squeaks, tidy cables, re run speaker cables, fit new front speakers). Some of the stuff I've had for a couple of years so I guess it's time to bite the bullet and strip the fascia out. So I'll not be finished by Friday. Nigel Photos to follow.
  7. Anyone happen to know the weight of an S4/S4s exhaust like so : http://tiny.cc/HCf7q, I have won it on ebay and need to collect it by courier. The vendor reckons it weighs 48KG. I know it is heavy as I have taken one off before, but 48kg seems a bit excessive. I do not have the standard exhaust on my own car now so I cannot weigh it. Thanks Nigel
  8. Will take some photos tomorrow Andy, am looking for the answer at the bottom of a beer glass at the moment. Forgot to say that my engine temp is ok, have changed engine stat already.
  9. I am having problems with my heater, it hasn't been working right for a while, when the controls are set to hot, the air is lukewarm. It became faulty on a trip up from England when halfway up the road the heater suddenly stopped working correctly. I have checked the vacuum side and all the flaps appear to be working and directing air as they should. I have backflushed the heater matrix with a garden hose and there was no real amount of crap that came out of it. I have checked the cable operation at the rotary control and that looks to have the full range of movement. I have removed the fusebox and through the aperture I can see that the water valve lever appears to have the full range of movement from hot to cold. My next step is to try and remove the valve to see if it is working through it's full range of movement, according to the manual there is a fixing at the top of the pedal box which I can neither see or feel. Can't see it through the fusebox aperture and can't feel it from the footwell. The manual says there is a temperature sensor on the output of the matrix which "amends the valve opening" relative to the output temp of the matrix, I'm thinking that although I have full movement of the cable to the valve, the thermostatic gubbins is somehow interfering with the valve opening fully. Has anyone removed this valve before, would it be helpful to remove the instrument binnacle? Thanks in advance Nigel
  10. Art Could you make some space in your inbox? The forum is coming up with a message to say it's full when I try to send you a PM. It's about your mental monster pipe. Thanks Nigel
  11. Was in Kirkcaldy for lunch and shopping on Sunday, was working there on Monday. My cycle rack sits on my rear wing, although mine is flat. Nigel
  12. Hi Brian I'm thinking of leaving my car in the garage and giving someone else a chance, was on my way to Kirkcaldy, I'm sure you are familiar with it. I was hoping you had spotted me at the weekend. I had a bike rack with two mountain bikes on the car, which has got to be pretty cool, next best thing to a ski rack! Nigel
  13. Bibs Whilst your taking orders, two front fog lamps for an SE and two door frames or should I try through Lotus aftersales? Nige
  14. Thanks SuperDave The old paint did indeed scrape off, used Kurust (Hammerite), then as you suggested red oxide primer and two coats of Smoothrite complete with drips. Not fitted it yet, don't think it should be too bad as it is the drivers side. Nigel
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