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lotus-62

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Everything posted by lotus-62

  1. the Brown and Gammons are wrong, maybe they will work but the locking is different, also I have seen many differents in lenght (shorter one's) I don't want to take a risk so will be looking for he lucas terminals
  2. III_Turn_Signals_and_Hazard_Switches yes they are the one's as well, but again out of stock.... looks like it is lucas/rists so we are coming closer thanks so far!
  3. the spitfire? nothing standard anymore I'm afraid.... some of the connectors are badly crimped with half broken wires. I want to make the wire loom a bit more reliable and convert to relay's for the heavy loaded one's.
  4. was hoping someplace closer to home lol. was looking on google and I guess the 3mm left the US out, is it 1/8" I need to look for or do they call them 0.125" ? anyway I am going to search that link, thanks
  5. looking around but can't find them, I am looking for a few new female connectors for the dashboard swithes. does somebody know where to get them?
  6. thats another way too slow down the motor lol. looks good! where is Austria do you live? ( sometimes I travel to Austria just to eat schnitzel!) no just kidding, I go every second year to the austrian lotus club in Bad Aussee.
  7. don't know if you know this so a little information, sorry if you knows allready I have been playing with the same motor for some problems as well. the motor relay gets it power from the green wire (middle contact copper strip, if the relay is switched off (cam pushes the copper strip away) the power to the motor is interrupted but the motor will still spin a little bit, maybe just enough to turn over the cam? the motor relay must short cut the 2 motor wires so the motor stops directly. if you put less volts on the motor it turns slower so maybe just enough to keep within the cam position? basically the P contct from the relay connects to the plus from the motor, the open contact to battery plus and the closed contact to zero (second motor contact that is connected to neg.) hope you can follow my dutch english LOL
  8. if you have lucas motors (TR7) that turn in just one direction they allways drop down first before they go up. it is just the way they are made. if you have the stevens (GM) motors it is the cheap repair kit you need. I changed the wiring on my lucas motors so they turn in both directions and now they don't drop down before they go up. looks much better (imho lol) lucas short.mp4
  9. you are correct, it is the ignition lock however looking on SJ'Ss website did not bring any good.... they sell the switch but it is that little thing "in between" that I am missing the switch I have fits in the housing, it is just the little shaft that seems too short. also the hole in the switch has two flat sides, the shaft from the lock has a somewhat smalle diameter and only one flat side. so maybe it is a non standard switch that the previous owner made to fit. o well if I can't find something it is back to the lathe and mill.
  10. looks like I am missing a part, it fits between the ignition switch and the little shaft at the end of the lock (photo) does anybody knows the correct name so I can order one? thanks
  11. as I am rewiring my whole car it was easy to do, don't know how it works on a existing wiring loom... basically 1 relais for Up, 1 for Down with the "copper strip" as end switch for the Up and Down relais. you need one more relais to let them work with the light switch, (this relais gets it power from main beam, flash and the normal driving lights) so the pods go up in al 3 light settings. I have the lights on separate relais as well so the light switch is just for the control signals and not for the main current. the common contact from both end switches is the copper strip)
  12. Stefan, I've been testing mine and they go down 16mm before they go up, I have rewired them, now they work like they do on the stevens esprit. looks much better and they go up faster
  13. can't believe my eye's. having my esprit and europa side by side the 9xx engine looks way too big for the europa (s2) custom chassis? wondering how much room there is at the front of the engine, more pictures please
  14. EDIT, (can't edit my previous post) had a brainwave, installed al the parts in my car, some wires relais and a switch...... yellow is the one! BUT it drops the pod 15mm before it goes up, the red one works as well BUT lifts the pod 15mm before it goes down...... both seem a bit odd to me so back to plan 1 and modify the wires/relais so it will travel.
  15. thinking about it, another option is when the lifting arm on the motor has been mounted wrongly (180degrees) and the end switch wires have beer mixed up it would work a little different. (red diagram) when swithed the arm only moves back just a little before it moves forward again, , maybe this way the "dip" in the pod isn't visible ? can anybody with an S3 (lucas/tr7 motor) make a picture of the motor/arm in the down position for me? help will be much appreciated as I do not have a local s3 to look at thanks, Rick
  16. Dismantling and overhauling the lift motors/wormgears at the moment, I have a few questions (I have them on the bench with a switch and 2 relais just to test them) . # the copper strip (end switch) is mounted offset to the centre of the wormgear so as a result the up stroke is 2/3 of a turn and the down stroke is 1/3 of a turn this forces the light pod down first before it goes in the up position, why? is this just a result of taking the tr7 motor? looks cheap to me # that same copper strip has 2 diodes in series with the end switches, why? don't need them to function properly.(maybe on the tr7?) if I remove them and rewire the relais I can make the motor go up and down between the short stroke end positions (1/3 turn) this gives me the possibility to mount rubber end stops so the light does not vibrate in the up position, # the copper strip end position switch is hyper sensitive, (weak copper strip) how to force it down a bit? bending or a small spring between the strip and the cover. I know the questions are not straight out of a box but a bit on the DIY side but thats how I work on my car.... thanks Rick
  17. I am rebuilding the motors (never seen them working on my car) I was expecting for the arm to move 50/50 between the end positoins however it is more like 1/3 - 2/3 so I am wondering if the pods go down first before they go up. looking for a video on youtube but can't find anything so I need to find a local esprit to see how they work
  18. I have 6mm (1/4") between the exhaust and the chassis rail, seems a little on the small size to me. is the 6mm correct or is the left engine rubber on it's way out?
  19. I got universal gaiters with a small rubber tube, perfect for filling up with a syringe.
  20. Filip, they all look alike but are not the same, maybe they fit anyway . if I can't find the correct one I'll order some from rick's website they seem to be the ones that come close to the esprit ones
  21. have been looking at Rick's website before, they do like alike but have the crimp connector quarter of turn offset, I am going to give him a call....
  22. you can see the little lock pin, I made a very small screwdriver even smaller so it fits between the lock and the plastic so they can be pushed out. all I need to know now is what type connector this is so I can buy new ones.
  23. no not the glass tube, it's for the standard blade fuses I got one out.
  24. anybody familiar with the female connectors used in the esprit fuse box? don't know how to get one out and need to replace a few thanks,Rick
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