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lotus-62

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Everything posted by lotus-62

  1. Stefan, I've been testing mine and they go down 16mm before they go up, I have rewired them, now they work like they do on the stevens esprit. looks much better and they go up faster
  2. can't believe my eye's. having my esprit and europa side by side the 9xx engine looks way too big for the europa (s2) custom chassis? wondering how much room there is at the front of the engine, more pictures please
  3. EDIT, (can't edit my previous post) had a brainwave, installed al the parts in my car, some wires relais and a switch...... yellow is the one! BUT it drops the pod 15mm before it goes up, the red one works as well BUT lifts the pod 15mm before it goes down...... both seem a bit odd to me so back to plan 1 and modify the wires/relais so it will travel.
  4. thinking about it, another option is when the lifting arm on the motor has been mounted wrongly (180degrees) and the end switch wires have beer mixed up it would work a little different. (red diagram) when swithed the arm only moves back just a little before it moves forward again, , maybe this way the "dip" in the pod isn't visible ? can anybody with an S3 (lucas/tr7 motor) make a picture of the motor/arm in the down position for me? help will be much appreciated as I do not have a local s3 to look at thanks, Rick
  5. Dismantling and overhauling the lift motors/wormgears at the moment, I have a few questions (I have them on the bench with a switch and 2 relais just to test them) . # the copper strip (end switch) is mounted offset to the centre of the wormgear so as a result the up stroke is 2/3 of a turn and the down stroke is 1/3 of a turn this forces the light pod down first before it goes in the up position, why? is this just a result of taking the tr7 motor? looks cheap to me # that same copper strip has 2 diodes in series with the end switches, why? don't need them to function properly.(maybe on the tr7?) if I remove them and rewire the relais I can make the motor go up and down between the short stroke end positions (1/3 turn) this gives me the possibility to mount rubber end stops so the light does not vibrate in the up position, # the copper strip end position switch is hyper sensitive, (weak copper strip) how to force it down a bit? bending or a small spring between the strip and the cover. I know the questions are not straight out of a box but a bit on the DIY side but thats how I work on my car.... thanks Rick
  6. I am rebuilding the motors (never seen them working on my car) I was expecting for the arm to move 50/50 between the end positoins however it is more like 1/3 - 2/3 so I am wondering if the pods go down first before they go up. looking for a video on youtube but can't find anything so I need to find a local esprit to see how they work
  7. I have 6mm (1/4") between the exhaust and the chassis rail, seems a little on the small size to me. is the 6mm correct or is the left engine rubber on it's way out?
  8. I got universal gaiters with a small rubber tube, perfect for filling up with a syringe.
  9. Filip, they all look alike but are not the same, maybe they fit anyway . if I can't find the correct one I'll order some from rick's website they seem to be the ones that come close to the esprit ones
  10. have been looking at Rick's website before, they do like alike but have the crimp connector quarter of turn offset, I am going to give him a call....
  11. you can see the little lock pin, I made a very small screwdriver even smaller so it fits between the lock and the plastic so they can be pushed out. all I need to know now is what type connector this is so I can buy new ones.
  12. no not the glass tube, it's for the standard blade fuses I got one out.
  13. anybody familiar with the female connectors used in the esprit fuse box? don't know how to get one out and need to replace a few thanks,Rick
  14. btw I made a small support at the back from steel just to spread the load on the GRP
  15. plenty of space just break your arm (just kidding), I did countersink the steel pivot plate a bit more so the bolts are flush. I used m3x16 but think 12mm will be ok as well
  16. is this the part you are talking about?
  17. I have seen this grp part, feels very weak, looks like a very thin layer of grp over some foam (I can push it in with my thumd) , was thinking about this and it looks like it is just there to let the fuel tank sit on. but it is just an idea that crossed my mind and I really like your idea about using the lhs tank for long trips only. how do you switch between them? a flow valve in between or 2 fuel pumps with a dash mounted switch? from the gt40s forum I know they use LP pumps in both fuel tanks to fill a single swirl pot that feeds a HP pump
  18. I lost 9kilo in half a year so by the time I egual the un-balance I am either dead because I have no meat left on my body or dead because of old age. but that fuel tank thing you did is nice. I have been looking very good yesterday, done some measurments and 60 liter is doable with a bit of chopping in the grp.... but I am not yet at it......
  19. as an owner of an LHD esprit I was just wondering if lotus tilted the engine to the left on purpose as a counter balance for the driver on rhd cars. on LHD cars it seems a bit odd to have the driver and a big part of the engine on the left side, so theoretically speaking would a single RHS fuel tank with the same capacity as both L and R tanks be any better or is there a downside to a single fuel tank on the right side to counter for the LHS driver as well? did lotus solve this with different spring rates (L to R) or is there no differents between a RHD and an LHD car and are the RHD owners more lucky with the set up? just brainstorming lol rick
  20. that's not what I want to hear! lol, thanks I'll keep this in mind for when I take the engine out.
  21. I heard that the s1-s2-s2.2 esprit has no problem as the shaft is different than the turbo BUT I have an NA 1985 S3 with the C35 gearbox, will this box be the same as the turbo or kept lotus the standard shaft in the NA esprit? just asking (so I know if this is in the pipeline for me) thanks, Rick
  22. I just did BUT my situation is different as I have this "air gap" between the plywood and GRP/steel bracket that makes it impossible to do it this way. that gap is not all the way, in between the holes and to the site is nothing, but a bit (like5mm) above and below is GRP.
  23. Hi, toke my chassis bracket to bulkhead bolts out as I am doing lots of things just because the interior is out now, read on the forum they can loss because of the shrinking wooden bulkhead, I am going to replace with M10, I do not have the sleeves later cars have BUT I found out I have a lot of "nothing" between the wood and grp/steel bracket I made an drawing to clarify, the steel chassis bracket on the left is in grey, the red ins the GRP (I have a red car lol) and the wood is brown as you can see the wood is 12mm and the "nothing" behind it is something like 14mm, grp looks like 5 mm when I tighten the bolt I hear the wood and grp cracking so I was thinking to put a sleeve (yellow) in between that is a little shorter than the total lenght so I still pressure the wood but not as much as before would you put the sleeves in or not and if how much shorter? thanks, Rick
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