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lotus-62

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Posts posted by lotus-62

  1. 1 hour ago, LotusLeftLotusRight said:

    True, but he’ll be taking many of those points of MV too.

    I do hope so as I do not want Max to turn into a Lewis and win more than half his titles on cruise control, that would be a shame for the sport. (and really boring to watch) so lets hope non will have a dominant car and it comes back to driver skills, something the sport needs. 

    as a cheesehead (German nickname for us Dutch)  I enjoyed the last lap and am very happy for Max but I feel for Lewis as well, a gentleman loser something Toto is not

    • Like 1
  2. On 25/10/2021 at 15:39, slewthy said:

    Agree that supporting independents preferable but Coverdale is a super little business. Family owned and run I believe. I had dealings with them for a carpet set for my DS23 and they were great. Even sorted out the error I had made in ordering the wrong sided set, no charge. Si

    I was over in the UK and needed carpet for my europa, went to Coverdale and they were very helpfull and friendly 

  3. On 27/09/2021 at 13:45, NG5 said:

    yes they are the one's as well, but again out of stock.... looks like it is lucas/rists so we are coming closer

    thanks so far! 

  4. 45 minutes ago, CarBuff said:

     

    Maybe you could cut a few connectors off the Spitfire? 😇

     

    What is the issue with the pictured plug?  If it has loosened (enlarged) connectors, a strategic squeeze with a scribe would tighten them up without needing to replace. (On USA cars, though, identical connectors were used in the high-amperage  fuel pump circuits, and they would literally burn up!)

    the spitfire? nothing standard anymore I'm afraid....

    some of the connectors are badly crimped with half broken wires. I want to make the wire loom a bit more reliable and convert to relay's for the heavy loaded one's.  

  5. 48 minutes ago, CarBuff said:

    In the USA, we can buy those connectors from hardware or home stores. Any opportunity for a local purchase in Holland? Bring that one spare with you for comparison, of course.

     

    A quick Google found several sources...as well as different size designations. So, be aware.

    Here's a USA listing:

    https://www.te.com/usa-en/plp/standard-circular-connectors/Y30jJ.html

    was hoping someplace closer to home lol.  was looking on google and I guess the 3mm left the US out, is it 1/8" I need to look for or do they call them 0.125" ?  

    anyway I am going to search that link, thanks 

  6. don't know if you know this so a little information, sorry if you knows allready  I have been playing with the same motor for some problems as well.                                                                                                                                    the motor relay gets it power from the green wire (middle contact copper strip, if the relay is switched off (cam pushes the copper strip away) the power to the motor is interrupted but the motor will still spin a little bit, maybe just enough to turn over the cam? the motor relay must short cut the 2 motor wires so the motor stops directly.   if you put less volts on the motor it turns slower so maybe just enough to keep within the cam position?  basically the P contct from the relay connects to the plus from the motor, the open contact to battery plus and the closed contact to zero  (second motor contact that is connected to neg.)  

    hope you can follow my dutch english LOL 

     

  7. you are correct, it is the ignition lock however looking on SJ'Ss website did not bring any good....   they sell the switch but it is that little  thing "in between" that I am missing the switch I have fits in the housing, it is just the little shaft that seems too short. also the hole in the switch has two flat sides, the shaft from the lock has a somewhat smalle diameter and only one flat side.  so maybe it is a non standard switch that the previous owner made to fit.    o well if I can't find something it is back to the lathe and mill.

     

  8. as I am rewiring my whole car it was easy to do, don't know how it works on a existing wiring loom...

    basically 1 relais for Up,  1 for Down  with the "copper strip" as end switch for the Up and Down relais. 

     you need one more relais to let them work with the light switch,  (this relais gets it power from main beam, flash and the normal driving lights) so the pods go up in al 3 light settings.  

    I have the lights on separate relais as well so the light switch is just for the control signals and not for the main current.  

    the common contact from both end switches is the copper strip) 

    lift motor.jpg

    • Like 2
  9. On 05/06/2021 at 10:49, sunste said:

    Is it normal for the headlamp pod to first go down an inch before coming up? Both sides does it. When it comes down all things is normal.

    how can I fix it if it’s not normal...

    Stefan, I've been testing mine and they go down 16mm before they go up, I have rewired them, now they work like they do on the stevens esprit. looks much better and they go up faster

     

  10. On 13/07/2021 at 22:56, Jim Estall said:

    34A16DF3-E0E0-4DA2-841F-30EC45836FFF.jpeg

    can't believe my eye's.   having my esprit and europa side by side the 9xx engine looks way too big for the europa (s2)  custom chassis?  wondering how much room there is at the front of the engine, more pictures please

     

  11. EDIT, (can't edit my previous post)   had a brainwave, installed al the parts in my car, some wires relais and a switch......   yellow is the one! BUT it drops the pod 15mm before it goes up,   the red one works as well BUT lifts the pod 15mm before it goes down......   both seem a bit odd to me so back to plan 1 and modify the wires/relais so it will travel.   

     

  12. thinking about it, another option is when the lifting arm on the motor has been mounted wrongly (180degrees) and the end switch wires have beer mixed up it would work a little different. (red diagram)  when swithed the arm only moves back just a little before it moves forward again, , maybe this way the "dip" in the pod isn't visible ?

     

    can anybody with an S3 (lucas/tr7 motor)  make a picture of the motor/arm in the down position for me?  help will be much appreciated  as I do not have a local s3 to look at 

     

    thanks, Rick

    lucas tr7 lift motor.jpg

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