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Posts posted by fastdave92649

  1. I did not split my feeds, they operate the same as the factory setup (just swaped them). The mixing chamber is really just a spacer (IAT also attaches to it) with a slit in it between the throttle body butterflies and the plenum. You could weld up that slit and isolate the feeds one for each bank but having that mix/balance is a good thing because it masks any variances in the turbos and keeps both banks running at the same boost level as was mentioned already.

  2. I really like this setup. When I'm ready to upgrade the transmission I will be using a PWR liquid to oil cooler to create a trans cooler. They are small enough to run one along the cross member and I will T off the intercooler feed line and add a second return to the tank. Has anyone seen or know of a source for a -10AN single input to 3 -10AN outputs or -10AN distribution block of some kind?? :)

    I also verified and installed a new trunk liner by these guys:

    The new trunk liner fit perfect without an modification, you can see it in the first complete package picture but they sold me just the liner without the rest.

    I have to pull my system one last time soon to get my methanol nozzle bungs welded in and the last of the pipes and the cores ceramic coated (might use a different heat dissipation paint on the cores). When I do this I will make sure to take and post a bunch of pics of the completed system.

  3. I built a complete charge cool system with the PWR barels and swapped the feeds. No issues at all in swaping them. I used all v-bands and hard lines except for the BOV connectors and TB conectors to provide some flex points. In order to get the best fit I also shortened then cooler cores themselves. I will post up pics of my setup later today for you.

    Here is a short video of them:

  4. I made my own SS lines for about 300-400US!!

    12mm to -4AN adapter for the oil feed lines.

    -4AN feed lines 13" long with straight on one end and 90 degree on the other

    -6AN coolant feed line with straight on one end and 90 degree on the other, I put in block adapters for the coolant feed lines that were straight block thread to -6AN (can't remember the block thread and size off the top of my head.

    -6AN coolant return lines with proper turbo to -6AN adapters.

    I can dig up the block adapter info but on the turbo side I was mating to a GT28 BB CHAR to my turbo connections

  5. It's ALIVE!!!!

    Engine fired up for the first time last night. :) Running pretty rough as I first fired it up without the IAT and intercooler setup on. This put me in limp home mode with P0111 and P0113, cleaned the IAT connections and temporarily installed the intercooler cores and BOV's to close the intake loop. Hope to get the idle set, coolant system bled, etc...

    One area that I am not happy with is the fuse I'm using to trigger my relay's for the turbo oil return scavange pump and the intercooler pump. I currently have it tapped off a fuse that has 12v when the key is in ACC position. This means when the engine is not running my scavange pump still is. I would like to find a fuse that is only on when the eninge is actually running??

    Anyone know of a fuse that is only on when running? I may have to run the relay trigger wire up to the front fuse block....

  6. Mike,

    Did you happen to resurface your flywheel??

    If so I read in the manual you should also mill down the legs of the clutch housing the same amount as your flywheel to ensure the same clamping forces are kept. I did not as I read this after my cover was already back on , BUT hopefully I will have the trans back off in a couple of months for the 6 speed upgrade and possible new clutch cover/clamping options.

  7. Just updated my pictures in the link on page 3.

    Added some shots of the intake setup I used, the intercooler to turbo sections with there V-bands, and the preliminary exhaust.

    I need to re-work my exhaust sections from the turbos over the axles, I'm not happy with them. I was originally tring to put the cats as close to the turbo's as possible. This puts the V-band flanges right in front of the cross member and I feel once the engine starts moving on the mounts I will have nasty cat rubbing on my frame. I will be mocking up the back box and then using my 120 degree pipes to swing the cats outboard more and backwards so I can extend the axle pipes backwards more so the v-band is behind the crossmember.

    All makes sense in my head.. LOL

    The hardest part about using the V-Bands on the exhaust is there is no room for error on the angles and connection points.

  8. There are a couple of options I can see for this clutch cover issue.

    We can search for a fit from Tilton, Exedy or the other major manufacturers that produce multi-plate clutches for a fit, we would need all the spec's of the current setup. I think it's a 7.25 inch disc, not sure on the depth, bolt pattern/spacing, throw-out bearing specs, total depth of the cover etc...

    The second option I was looking into is having one of my local specialty shops rebuild the stock cover with stiffer pressure plate spring fingers. Luckily I have 2-3 top clutch rebuild outfits in my local area. I have talked to the guys at ClutchNet Manufacturing and one other outfit already, just need to bring in my stock setup for them to have a look at. Also took my AP setup to the North American Distributor of AP Racing and they told me although it was AP racing product the only option would be new through Lotus.

    When I'm ready to do the GTO 6 Speed I will be starting with the second option and taking it to see if a rebuild with a stiffer pressure plate setup is viable. I'm still going with the 1in spline and discs regardless of the cover status. Would love to find a nice triple disc carbon setup that fits but may be harder and much more expensive than just uplifting the existing cover.

  9. Thanks Mike...

    For the clutch I will be using the standard carrier but going with the ford 1" spline and disc's.

    Injectors are Bosch 0280155715 and flow 25lbs/hr at 43psi (3 bar). Should have enough flow and headroom for the break-in period at low boost but I will have to watch my AFR's once I get it on the Dyno and start raising the boost up. Right now I have my Forge gates set at 7 PSI which with the larger turbos should get me right around the 12 PSI of the old stock turbos. After break-in and the transmission gets done I will be cranking up the boost to about 12-15 PSI.

    Futures would be an Aquamist HFS-3 kit with a 50/50 blend of water and methanol, then maybe crank the boost up a little more! :)

  10. Hi all,

    I figured i would update this thread as it has almost been a full year the car has not been running.

    The Current plan of action:

    • Disassemble Engine. Done
    • Pull the pistons and drop in forged ones. Done: Had the machine shop hone and deck the block and install the JAE forged pistons in stock size.
    • Pull apart the heads and replace any valve train components that may have been damaged/bent. Done: 6 Intake and 3 exhaust bent (might have this backwards), replaced them along with all the other bits, and had the heads ported with most of the work being done on the exhaust side and a 5 angle job.
    • Maybe have the heads ported and 5 angle valve job done. Done
    • Will have the manifolds coated for heat control. Done: Had the exhaust manifold double coated with ceramic and the turbo housings (both sides) ceramic coated.
    • Not sure what to do with the turbos while the engine is out, maybe coat them, port them or replace them with GT2860R's. Done: Pulled the stock turbos out and replaced with a pair of GT2871R's. To facilitate this had to create custom compressor housings, and I had to install a sump pump to push the oil return back to the pan. Also had to notch out the bell housing similar to Mike's first build.
    • Drop a GTO 6 speed dog box gear set into the transmission and call that done. NOT Done: Decided to wait on this due to finances, will be installing and breaking the engine in with the stock box. Not my ideal scenario but the wifey took away my blank check.

    Stuff done but not on the list: ARP head studs installed, R&B water pump pulley, complete audio system updates, Sport350 engine mounts, custom intakes (similar to Mikes current project) I used K&N Apollo filter housings and used the flex pipe included to run the cold air from the scoops to the intakes.

    Here are some pictures:

    Engine Build Pictures

    I'm priming the oil system and working on the last few bends in my 3" exhaust setup, so it won't be long before it's fired up!! I will be working on Rev2 of my intercooler system as I replaced the sections mating turbos to cooler pipes with V-Bands, I will be keeping the BOV silicon and the TB silicon, the rest will be V-Bands. I'll also be switching my coolers from push on fittings to 10AN braided line and fittings.

  11. Purging your AC system requires special tools and machines to recover the gases (at least in the US). If you make sure to take out the bolt that mounts the AC pipes to the frame you should have plenty of slack to raise the engine enough to get your hand in there to undo the last of the AC compressor bolts. Then just rest it aside on the front corner of the frame and pull the engine.

    Intent is to raise the engine vertically to gain better access to the bolts from underneath, not rearwards.

  12. Quick question for the group.

    I have heard from a few people that the intermediate shaft pulley bolt is torque to yield use once bolt. Is this correct and should I replace those 5 (intermediate shaft and the cam pulleys) bolts during my rebuild?? I see no mention in the manual of these bolts NOT being reused?

    Also torque specs for the oil filter housing to the block would be help full as I can not find that in the manual either.


  13. Well the engine is out and fully disassembled, sent the heads off to the machine shop for rebuild. They will be doing some light porting on the exhaust side, a 5 angle valve job, and replacing the 2 bent exhaust valves, 6 bent intake valves, and all the guides and such. The block is also there for the installation of the forged coated pistons from JAE and the usual deck work, honing etc etc.

    I am starting to source the sealants and some of the lotus specific tools for assembly of the front cover, rear cover, etc.

    Can anyone give me a ballpark cost of the Lotus specific tools below (in any currency)? Depending on the cost I will either purchase them or possibly look for anyone willing to let me borrow them once I get the block back from the machine shop.

    Locating plate for front cover intermediate shaft.


    Intermediate shaft locating bush


    Flywheel Locking Tool (transmission removed)


    In case anyone wants to know the root cause of this endeavor... once I pulled the plastic guard off the front cover section I took 2 fingers and very lightly turned the intermediate shaft bolt that holds the cam sprockets on the shaft. With VERY little force the bolt spun right out, a far cry from the 80 ftlbs spec for this bolt. Once I took the sprockets off I manually spun the crank (heads off at this point) and the intermediate shaft spins fine. So one bolt not properly torqued (or reused by PO) gave me the excuses needed for the wife to green light the engine rebuild. :blush:

  14. Anyone happen to have dxf files of the Intake and Exhaust gaskets for the 918? I'm going to have some thermal barrier gaskets laser cut and need to provide AutoCad .dxf files. Looking for the gasket between the Plenum and the injector runners, the one between the injector runners and the head, and the one between the head and the exhaust manifold.

    I have a source to get these files generated but figured I would check here to see if anyone happens to already have done it.


  15. Belts have not been checked or changed recently. Car just turned 16k miles so it was on my list of things that needed to be done. Although I have not pulled the front cover off, I think the issue is with the Primary timing chain that is under the front cover. The bolt that holds the cog for the crank has a nasty habit of backing out. I have drained the fluids and prep-d the engine for removal so getting to disassembly time.

    Everyone here will be overjoyed, I have decide to rebuild the 918. I was only considering the LS1/7 with the G50 to save costs. Well now that the GTM, GT40 and Ultima guys are using the G50 for their application those transmission prices have gone from 2-3k to 6-8k saving me nothing.

    Current plan of action:

    • Disassemble Engine.
    • Pull the pistons and drop in forged ones. Will probably have this done at a shop and have them hone the block and balance the assembly. I'm assuming if the liners and bearings, etc are all in good shape they don't need replacement?? Should I pull the liners and replace or reseal them even if I have had no issues with the sealant??
    • Pull apart the heads and replace any valve train components that may have been damaged/bent.
    • Maybe have the heads ported and 5 angle valve job done.
    • Will have the manifolds coated for heat control. Anyone recommend cryo or treating any of the other parts. What coating or treatment is recommended for the pistons??
    • Not sure what to do with the turbos while the engine is out, maybe coat them, port them or replace them with GT2860R's.
    • Drop a GTO 6 speed dog box gear set into the transmission and call that done. :lol:

    Any assistance or comments on parts and pieces that I should replace while the engine is apart? New gaskets are a given, new bearings if the current ones are worn or damaged, oil seals?

    Also any advice on the must have Lotus specific tools, especially the Cam/Crank positioning pins, where can I get them?

  16. Thats hot Bibs..

    Haven't even started looking at my engine yet. I'm going to pull it and see how much is damaged.

    Only negative I see about going new factory engine is I would rather have forged pistons.. Time will tell how much is actually broken.

    I'll keep you all up to date as I start this adventure.

  17. 12,500 for the entire rebuild, parts and labor is what I was quoted. Although I like to error on the high side as once you pull it apart there is always a few things that you did not plan for. I'm sure they would do a spot on job in the rebuild, unfortunately I'm in the middle of a kitchen remodel as well.. so the timing in having a professional do it is not going to work out.

    I will be taking it to my friends garage where I actually own a lift and have access to the engine stands etc. Once I pull it I will look at what needs to be done and go from there. My biggest worry is once I rebuild the engine and have it back to 100% the transmission will go out on me..

    I completely agree that it's just an engine, regardless of who makes it; it's still pistons and valves, intake and exhaust..

    If i did go LSx then it would be an LS1 with an inverted G50/xx transmission and I would not have to worry about the trans and parts would be super cheap compared to Lotus parts. If this is the path I take then it would end up SC down the road and provide for an entertaining little car. Although as mentioned then I need to determine SMOG and CARB issues, although I bought the car to be a track whore I would still like to keep it road legal. It would also make for a convenience when I finally get around to starting my next project (GTM) I can pull the kit out of the Lotus and put the 918 back in.

    Anyone know the weight of the 918? and Trans? One thing I do not want to do is upset the balance of the car by sticking an engine/trans combo that significantly raises the weight from original.

    Lots of things to think about.. Maybe rebuild the 918 and work the adapter plate out to mate the G50 transmission to it.. :thumbsup:

  18. Time for an update and I wish it was good news.

    Harry pulled the cam covers and turned the crank manually and the cam's do not turn. Left bank cam bolts are very loose right side very tight. Could be the chain or something else but bottom line is the engine needs to be pulled and rebuilt. :)

    I am now stuck with the tough decission of:

    A. Rebuilding the 918 with forged pistons and ARP studs with a complete balance etc.. (12-15k).

    B. Pulling the engine and trans and dropping in a supercharged LS7 and inverted G50 (not sure yet, still looking at sources for this option).

    If i go B I could sell off my intercooler and other parts and pieces to offset the new engine and trans or keep it all and have it rebuilt at some point down the line. I guess I could also just stick it back in the garage and let it sit if I chose to rebuild the 918.

    Thank you all for your time and efforts,


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