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stugilmour

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Everything posted by stugilmour

  1. Cool Michael. I think I see the issue now; found the following picture that shows the binnacle over top of the centre stack. I guess that is the problem. 5 1/2 cm (2.2") is a lot! Took a look on the Crutchfield site and the only current flip screen I see is the Clarion NZ503, which appears to have the same issue. Thinking about it, over 2" of projection sounds doubtful in any model. The typical single DIN depth of ~7" would probably not accommodate that much projection without a very complicated double slide mechanism. I expect the manufacturers are more interested in maximizing screen size, and thinking the required slide packaging is just a bridge too far for them? Here is a link to a model that flips downward with some dimensions shown. Not sure if it would clear the gear lever? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-1-Din-7-Touch-Car-Stereo-DVD-Player-CD-VCD-Ipod-TV-Mp3-Bluetooth-Radio-/111193323032?pt=US_Video_In_Dash_Units_w_o_GPS&hash=item19e3a37618 Stu
  2. Michael, not sure if this helps or not, as I have the later round binnacle V8 interior. At any rate, my car has an Alpine IVA-D310 single DIN unit installed. These are a flip screen type. These units are discontinued now, so would have to be an ebay type purchase. Here is a link to some particulars about the system. I am not sure where the screen position causes issues in the older interior, but here is how the screen slide works on this unit, so it might have some promise if you are concerned with interfering with the top of the centre stack: Monitor Angle/Slide Adjustment: You can adjust the monitor's angle and slide position for better visibility. The screen angle can be adjusted between 40 and 105 degrees. The monitor's position can set to the normal position or slid forward approximately 1/2" ("front position") to clear possible dash obstructions. http://www.crutchfield.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=500IVAD310 I can take some pictures of the unit in my car and take a few measurements if you would like. Just let me know. Here is the only one presently on eBay, although they seem to come up reasonably frequently. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-IVA-D310-7-inch-Car-DVD-Player-With-extra-VIDEO-BYPASS-BOX-NICE-/161187137211?pt=US_Video_In_Dash_Units_w_GPS&hash=item25878086bb Note that the install of this unit is a bit different. The head unit portion with screen and CD/DVD uses a conventional single DIN sleeve mount. There are also a couple of smaller component boxes (power supply box and video by-pass box) that dangle around the head unit. A large secondary box has most of the electronics and all of the external connections on it; mine is mounted under the passenger seat. This works OK, although I cannot move my passenger seat back and forth as the mounting studs are too short to provide sufficient clearance. As this is an older unit, it unfortunately requires additional boxes to add iPod and Sirius Sat radio; I was able to get the required accessories on eBay pretty easily. Might be an option. Stu
  3. Welcome Richard. Sorry for late reply as was out of town. Sorry, can't help a ton with your immediate problem. Sounds like an aftermarket wheel. My '69 Plus 2 used the signed Chapman wheel, but your later model may have used a different wheel, just not sure. Pretty sure the horn 'pencil' is the same as the Triumph part, so does sound like an issue with the hub. Sounds like you know your way around the horn assembly, but just a heads up as not sure if this is the same for Triumph. The universal joint at the base of the column by the rack is rubber isolated in stock form. A black ground wire is required accross the universal, or an aftermarket solid universal can be used. For Elan and Plus 2 details, I recommend joining the forum at lotuselan.net. Post a picture of the wheel and question in the correct technical section and pretty sure guys there can help you out. It is a very active forum so you should get a pretty quick answer. If you have difficulty with posting a pic, just mention it and someone can help you out; I think the forum restricts photo attachments until you have posted a few times. The guys on the forum are very helpful and there may be a member local to you that can take a look. Best of luck with the resto; they are terrific cars when sorted but do have their quirks! HTH
  4. Quick update. Purchased a used rear fog light switch from eBay and installed it in the blanked position on our NA cars. Using it to switch my Valentine radar detector mounted on the rear window; with the rear window mount it is awkward to switch the unit on and off. Switch works fine, although the light inside the used switch was not working. Thanks for the help.
  5. Thanks for the update. I have had the passenger seat out several times but didn't see a pain free way to get to the bladder either. Very slow leak from the valve (maybe) but not enough to account for the bladder going flat. Might try again this winter. Stu
  6. Neil, can you let us know how you make out? Mine is doing the same thing. Thx Stu
  7. Anyone know an alternate source or part call-up for the round button switches on the top of the late V8 centre stack? Lotus only? I don't see them listed as available on the SJ site. Thx Stu
  8. Thanks Alan. Similar thoughts here. Unfortunately the camera I purchased has rather large wire connector ends on it, so I am also puzzling through getting an appropriate grommet. Have to drill a pretty big hole behind the license plate I guess. Going to make sure the camera works correctly with the HU prior to surgery. This is the license plate frame I got to hold the actual camera. Obviously sized for this side of the pond. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTXC10L/Alpine-KTX-C10LP.html Stu
  9. Excellent work Alan. Question for you. I have a single DIN HU with a sliding screen. I have purchased a rear view backup camera and a mount that is fitted on a license plate frame. Wondering where on your car you mounted your backup camera? Did you have to drill holes for wiring in the body work? I am trying to muster courage for my install, so any ideas/advice appreciated. Stu
  10. The kit was 2,634 GBP including ~100 GBP shipping to Canada and 290 GBP for a spare (good used) synchronizer and sliding hub. I bought these as we did not know what my gearbox internals were like prior to tear-down and the shifting quality was poor. I ended up able to get a new synchro from a NA supplier anyway, so the one from GTO is spare. I also had a Quaife LSD installed at the same time, but the tech in Vancouver had one in stock so purchased separately. GTO can supply the LSD though. Delivery took a while. Best of luck finding a Holloway. I heard a few leads on a kit but was unable to get one. HTH
  11. I had checked with Holloway a few months ago, and he has sold his last kit earlier this year. No plans to make more. I ended up going with the GTO Racing kit instead. Good luck in your search.
  12. For reference, here is the instructions sent to me by Michael. Think they are the same as the Owners Manual? Stu 6422 Remote programming.pdf
  13. Where are you located TJ? I can't help with the specifics of your particular reprogramming issue, but there is a lot of info here: http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f320/ SirLotus (Michael) supplied me with an additional key fob and key fob cover by mail and it programmed correctly in my case. He is located in Florida if this is easier for you? He also mentioned that if I wanted new touch keys and the system re-programmed he could do it if I mailed him the main box under the passenger dash. I didn't require reprogramming as I managed to source both touch keys from the previous owner. Anyway, highly recommended as a supplier if you are in the 'States. HTH Stu
  14. Success! I moved and re-wired the amp, fuses, etc. I relocated the amp flat on the left side trunk floor close to the rear bulkhead. An in-line fuse saved a bunch of wiring space and prevented fouling the roof panel. I flopped the cocomat over the amp and all good; a standard rollie bag still fits over top the amp and no heat build-up issues; the amp doesn't run close to full throttle anyway. I then 'practiced' several times with the composite and glass roof panels, with and without the bag. The secret trick that is not shown well in the video is the timing of the dip of the right rear corner. The left corner of the roof panel has to be pretty much touching the air pump with the right front corner pretty high up in the air almost touching the lid. Then 'dip' the right rear corner to clear the corner of the opening, continue rotation with the lower left corner just above the molded in bit at the rear of the trunk. Not a terribly clear explanation I am afraid, but worked for me. I tried it pretty much every orientation possible, and found I needed the hold down spoons at the front and the handles at the rear facing up. This looks backward to the video, but worked for me. So with the roof panel in the trunk, the right rear corner hangs precariously in the air? My battery (Optima red top that fits the tray OK) prevents moving the panel to the right to support the right front panel corner. I used a roll of paper towel to offer some support. Does this sound about right? Clearly any luggage will need to be on the passenger seat while the panel is stowed. Took a couple of back pills after the workout! With the sunroof removed and the wind deflector in place the cabin is very comfy and reasonably quiet & draft free. Really like it! Also tried the composite roof for the first time; way quieter than the glass panel. I expect the installed gasket is sized for the composite panel and air was leaking a bit with the glass panel in place. I am picking up another gasket from the PO this week, which I expect is the taller glass panel type. Thanks for all the replies; interesting discussion. Thought it was just me!
  15. Thanks Scott. Could explain the alternator failure. Bummer. I think the battery had discharged somewhat from the lights (and maybe ignition) being on for about 20 minutes in the car wash, hence part of the no-start issue? I couldn't hear anything in the wash tunnel with the exhaust fans and dryers running, so not even sure if the engine was turning over before the jump attempt, but I don't think so. Strange seemed to take about 20 minutes for the warning lights to come on, although maybe I missed the charge light as it was pretty dim at idle but lit right up with engine revs. Just got the call from the shop, and unfortunately no alternator parts until next week. Stu
  16. Had the car all ready to go on a long trip. Went through a touchless car wash for the first time, and now having problems. The guys turned on the head lights and maybe left the car ignition key in the run position when they loaded it on the belt to send it through. They hand wash the car, but used a high pressure nozzle for rinsing and low pressure nozzles for soap and wax application. I could not start the car at the end of the wash. The car started with a jump from a battery box, and all seemed good. Driving the car for about 20 minutes I got a no charge light, followed by Check Engine (CEL) and intermittent ABS light. Drove home and swapped to a known good battery; car started but still warning lights. Drove to the shop, and we checked charging. Getting 13.6 v at idle at the battery, but spiking up to 17.8 v when engine is revved. So, assuming the regulator is gone out, maybe the diode pack. Assuming CEL & ABS warning is caused by over voltage. Alternator is removed for rebuilding at a specialist; appears to be a Delco unit and not sure on parts availability, etc. Hopefully will get the car back tomorrow for my trip, but not looking good right now. A few questions... Does it make sense that the charging system could be damaged by the car wash process? New to the car and not sure if there is a known issue, cautions to be exercised next time, etc. Would a Delco unit be stock to the car (2000 Esprit V8, US spec)? Archived posts talk about a Lucas LRB320 alternator with a cross-over number to a Bosch BX3925, so was a bit surprised when the tech saying it is Delco. Guesses on when the alternator tech can get it together welcome. Might cheer me up! :-) Stu Calgary AB hoping to get to Vancouver for the car show....
  17. Thanks Alex. I moved the amp but still could not get the roof inserted. It is fouling on a bump on the lower corner of the rear transom. Put the amp back in place. Stu
  18. Looking over my trunk/boot floor. All of the fasteners appear to be missing. Does anyone know the correct bolt/screw size to use? Looks like they use captive Riv-Nuts to fasten the floor? Not sure of thread or bolt size, and everything I have tried does not fit. Perhaps use a bolt and nut type system? Would the fasteners be Metric or SAE? Any help appreciated. Thx Stu
  19. Quick update to close off the topic. Got the two dealer supplied (Silca YM 27P) blanks described above cut locally for about $80. Both work fine in the car. HTH Stu
  20. So, I have seen the YouTube video showing how to put the roof in the trunk. It looks a bit different than my V8 trunk (curved wall at front). Does the glass roof fit in the V8 in the same way? The previous owner has mounted an amplifier in the rear panel of the trunk which might be my issue. Wanted to check fitment before going to all the trouble of moving the amp. thx Stu
  21. Thanks for posting Dave. I will forward the link to Richard. Did you contact him regarding any issues? Glad to here you like the ratio change and shift action. Getting the car out of storage next week and install set for later in May. thx Stu
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