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  1. There are two screws located on the bottom lip at the front of part 5. They may thread in to two captive speed nuts attached to part 14; memory a bit vague. I am not remembering if they are an Allen hex type head or a Phillips, so take a close look prior to trying to unfasten them. My bet is a hex socket of about six mm? Once the two screws are out he piece easily removes by pulling forward. HTH Stu
  2. Bringing this old topic forward. I have exactly the same question for my 2000. Can the lift switch be pried out from the from the front? Stu
  3. Thanks Mike. Excellent to have the info in one place. Stu
  4. Excellent guys. Thanks. A few years ago I provided an electronic copy of the service manual to the shop, so hopefully all good. The torque settings and procedures Mike and Derek provided are as per my Service Manual, page ED-36. Reason I asked for confirmation is at one point my tech mentioned a revised torque spec. I may have missunderstood; he may have meant the torque spec used for another highly modified Esprit V8 that was using ARP studs. At any rate, as we are using stock gaskets and screws, I would want the Lotus recommended torque spec to be used. Will check with the shop to see what they are using. Another quick thought. Our local independent did major service work on about four V8's last winter (when my aftermarket gaskets were installed). I think at least two jobs involved using the aftermarket head gaskets. The other cars don't accumulate much for miles, and don't see track use. Unfortunately I seem to be the local trial baloon to see if we have isolated the cause of this issue. Any experience from others helpful. Cheers! Stu
  5. Here is a picture of one of my failed gaskets.Coating is badly damaged, but not sure if this was subsequent over heating or a root cause of failure. Witness marks seem to show failure in the coolant galeries close to the liners. Failure mode of the cooling system was sudden loss of coolant, apparently from presurization of cooling system from combustion chamber. Did several combustion gas checks that were negative, final test done by my very experienced independent shop was positive. Only seemed to occur under load at reasonable rpm (say 4000 or more with some boost). No obvious cross over of oil and coolant noted, but on disassembly some mayonaise seen in the cooling system tubes from the turbo's, which confirmed crossover did occur. Very frustrating problem, as we have essentially refurbished the cooling system completely and have not solved the issues. This recent head gasket failure is the second while I have owned the car. First failure was a small external leak located at front right, just above the alternator. May have caused two alternator failures due to dripping coolant; no coolant seen below car as it would presumably only leak intermitently and slow enugh to evaporate off. I did not see the head gaskets removed on the first job, but the tech swears they were not OEM, and not even of the laminated steel type. This seems real strange to me, and might not be accurate. As I say, never saw the gaskets, just saw the evidence of the external leak and noted very rapid coolant loss/consumption (about 1/2 litre per day if steady running). Anyone seen V8 head gaskets that are other than the laminated steel type? Replacement gaskets are installed, and just waiting for turbo's to come back from service/rebuild before recommisioning the car (2000 V8). Very strange, as I have an impeller failure on one of the turbo's, even after rebuild last winter with the first head gasket job. Whether this failure is related to the head hasket failure, sudden coolant loss on track, brief overheating, oil/water crossover, etc. I am not sure. Don't think we have an overboost issue happening. Seems to be normal boost pressures according to my gauge I installed last winter after the head gasket replacement. We have used OEM head gaskets this time based on recommendations from other folks and on-line research. Sourced the OEM gaskets from Steve at SJ. He indicated to me he was not aware of failures with the aftermarket gaskets. He did mention he supplies and sells the same aftermarket gaskets as JAE; I assume these are the 'Steve's Pick' gaskets on his site for about half the cost of OEM, but perhaps others who have bought them can confirm. Although he could supply me with OEM gaskets (about two months ago), he mentioned they may be the last set he has available right now. I did not interpret this to mean OEM gaskets are not available any more, just not in stock with him right now and perhaps not in stock with Lotus or through his supply chain. Trying to be very clear here, as I did not understand @Bibs mention of someone being banned for saying (among other thinks apparently, I can't really follow the posts and back and forth too well) Lotus does not have any more V8 gaskets available in this other thread. Not taking issue with anything, just saying I do not know what the exact gasket supply situation is, but understand the OEM ones are hard to get... I do not know right now what caused my second gasket failure. Hoping the OEM gaskets solve the problem, but no experience to report yet. Unfortunately it is going to be a very short fall driving season here in Alberta after the new gaskets are installed. I do have a Track Day scheduled for October 1st that hopefully will use the Esprit. The track is about three hours (one way) from home, so it should be an excellent road test if trhe car is ready in time and the snow is not too deep . It is actually snowing in Banff today, so fingers are crossed. I have not contacted JAE yet about my most recent failure, as (1) I did not purchase the gaskets, the shop did, (2) I do not know specifically what caused the failure, and (3) I don't know yet if the coolant loss issue will be solved with the new OEM gaskets. If the OEM gaskets solve the problem I am prepared to report results to Jay and Steve. As Steve mentioned to me in an email, the only way the suppliers know if there is an issue is if we let them know. I am pretty confident in the shop doing the work, but things can happen on assembly, etc. We did send the heads out for cleanup, the block deck was checked, etc. The shop has done extensive work on a number of Esprit V8's, including heads, liners, etc. Can someone confirm the head torque spec we should be using? I believe we are using stock head bolts, but I will check on that important detail. 'Guest' asked about the gasket replacement job being done with the engine in or out of the car. My gaskets were done with the engine in the car. My understanding is if you are using ARP replacement studs the engine has to be pulled to provide enough clearance to get the head off over the studs, but I am absolutely open to correction on this detail. There is a post above in this thread that 'Guest' says is from the archive; not quite sure what is meant there. I think it is actually taken from this thread on Lotus Talk, but not sure. Although it says 'Stu' at the top of the post, it is not based on my experience. Rather it was another fellow on Lotus Talk that reported solving his coolant loss issue with OEM gaskets, and he posted publically after I enquired if he had solved his specific issue. This was when we were planning my head gasket replacement job. The thread contains a bit of history on my first gasket failure... I did hear off list from one other person regarding this issue, and he also reported OEM gaskets solved his problem of sudden coolant loss. We will see if he also posts in this thread. Looking at the HowardRoark thread regarding sudden coolant loss, I am wondering if it is another occurance of the same issue? I thouight I simply had an air bubble in the cooloing system, but definitely gasket failure. Hope this helps. Any experiences, good or bad, are probably helpful. Stay Calm and Carry On I guess. Wish me luck. Stu
  6. Mitch, just got contacted privately by another forum member who mentioned he had an issue with the JAE supplied head gaskets as well. We assume now we got aftermarket ones from JAE last winter as we are having identical issues to the other car. He also solved the issues with OEM gaskets.

    I cannot source the OEM gaskets locally as our dealer does not stock or source any parts for the older cars. If you get a lead on a gasket set for sure let me know. 

    I actually recovered two pieces about 1/4" diameter of what looks like head gasket material from the coolant header bottle. 

    Real pain. May have to re do the head gaskets. 


  7. Thanks for that Mike. Those readings (except for boost) are what I am seeing. A bit concerned with the potential over boost; believe the previous owner mentioned something was changed in the regard but not sure of details. This was before change to Hi-Torque flash; assume the car had the stock MY 2000 NA flash when I bought the car. I have the North American spec Hi-Torque reflash performed by Lotus USA about two years ago. I also have a spare ECU (in for service right now). Have not settled on the flash it will get, but believe the tech is using a North American version of the Red Race flash. The ECU was equipped with a chip holder and after market chip when I bought it. It is presently not behaving correctly, and unfortunately never worked reliably in my car before being sent for service and repair. Original motivation for looking at the cooling systems was repeated overheat warnings during track sessions. This was indicated by flashing a coolant light with moderate coolant system temps on the dash gauge, which has been checked against an icing thermometer and the ECU readings. I also got a similar high oil temp warning on a trip up Pikes Peak at our Lotus Meet last August; the warning only occurred at the very peak at a staggering 14,000 ft elevation! Track Day was cut short at Pikes Peak International at a more moderate ~6,000 ft elevation and I think 5-40 oil; same issue with oil temp. I then added the gauges, PUK oil thermostat, 10-60 oil. We also fixed a very small but persistent external head gasket leak (right front, was dripping on the alternator and evaporating off; believed to have caused two alternator bearing failures). Turbo's were removed and serviced during the head gasket replacements. Oil cooling appears to be working fine, no leaks Coolant system still not working correctly. Pretty much at my wits end. Repeated air bleeding and testing, and I appear to be pressurizing somehow and blowing coolant out. New radiator pack, fans, overflow bottle, thermostat, pressure caps and gaskets, hose clips, etc. As soon as weather improves here I am dong yet another system pressure test, this time with shift gator removed to see if any leakage in the tunnel tubes; friend of mine on the other forum just found this issue on his car so going to check mine. Also going to do another check for combustion gas in coolant; previous tests came back OK with no combustion gas, but we will see this time. I have no indication of oil / coolant crossover, but have not sent oil for analysis. With the car cold I can rev the engine with a plastic bag over the rad cap, and the bag will collapse when revved and slightly pressure up when the engine is brought back to idle. I put this down to the slight change in coolant level as the engine is revved. My biggest fear is I have an issue with the liners, or another head gasket issue. I am not sure if liner failure would present as rapid cooling system pressurization? Any suggestions welcome. Sorry for length. It has been a journey. Love the car but need to resolve this issue. Stu
  8. Although I have not removed the panel myself, I understand it is simply held in place by double sided tape and needs to be carefully pried off. I also understand it is sufficient to remove the facia panel to replace the switches, and the whole plastic bit does not need to come out. You will need to remove the head unit and sleave though. This post will help a ton.... I have posted a bunch of other V8 heater info and pictures here in this other post that might also help. Let us know how you make out as taking this part of the car apart is quite a puzzle. HTH Stu
  9. You may be right Mike. At any rate we got it installed. Does assist with warm up time particularly with heavy weight oil, which is what I was hoping for. I live at about 4300 feet next to the Canadian Rockys. Overnight temperatures are very cool, even in August. Wanted to run heavy multi grade oil for track use, but was concerned with lack of lubrication during warm up, particularly on a cool morning. What would you consider typical oil temp and pressure for the V8? I installed an oil temperature, pressure, and boost gauges for this season. Don't have a feel for what would be typical readings I see max boost of about 15 psi, oil pressure of about 20 psi when warm at idle, and oil temps of 70 degrees but going up to 90 or 100 degrees when jumping on the power Stu
  10. Barry and Wayne If you still have issues with the Cobra, Sir Lotus on the Lotus Talk forum is an excellent resource. I bought new remotes and custom remote cases from him. Very helpful. He has links to the cobra manuals in a sticky thread, and has additional information in the electrical section. As mentioned above, if you don't have the touch key the unit has to be sent to him (or someone else with the specialized knowledge and equipment) for programming. Problem; No available Touch KeySolution; Alarm ECU needs to be sent to me for programming the inclusion of Touch Key which is supplied. HTH Stu
  11. Jon, I would also recommend checking out getting your stock rad pack re-cored, depending on what you find for issues after removal. I think they typically re-core to four row rather than the stock three row. I tried with two different alloy aftermarket rads and had issues with cracking. If you do opt for an aluminium unit, pay particular attention to how you mount it. My understanding is they must be mounted in some sort of flexible rubber mounts to prevent body flex causing them to crack. YMMV. Just my experience. Both of mine were from North American suppliers; no direct experience with Radtec. Recognize others have definitely used aluminium units with success, and my second aluminium unit did provide more cooling than my presently installed re-cored unit. The issue was that cracking at the welds is pretty much impossible to repair; we took a shot but could not get a reliable seal. It may have worked OK with a better mounting system, but after two kicks at the can I went back to conventional stock material. I am still using the larger aftermarket fan package though, so that might be something you want to consider. I had my local shop do the work. My understanding it is pretty difficult without a lift, but the thread Barry linked to is encouraging for sure. Have you thoroughly checked all of the hoses and stuff first, particularly around the diverter valve and heater hoses? I had an overheating issue at idle caused by one of the three fan fuses going out, so definitely check all three fans are working. Stu
  12. Has anyone installed a PUK oil thermostat in a V8? The unit I bought is the second one down on this page. It is different than the sandwich plate type used on the four cylinder. supplied hoses look overly long to comfortably fit and attach to the hoses running to the front of the car. Pulling the long hoses forward might work but looks very awkward. Thinking of getting shorter hoses made up, but still looks like a strange fit. Wondering if anyone else has installed one of these? Are we missing something? Stu
  13. Interesting point regarding the J bolt. That should work fine. I must have missed that idea when I was looking at the issue, so I cut the carabiner. Or i had trouble finding the required threaded rod and coupling nut. Good luck with the fix. Spain and Malta sounds pretty good with snow still hanging around here. Stu
  14. Had another thought regarding using a turnbuckle. The RC model car world has a selection of small diameter turnbuckles that might have some promise. With a bit of fiddling on the attachments at each end they may make a very elegant fix,,, These sets look promising; not sure but was trying to find one with metal ends rather than plastic. Stu
  15. I would recommend just bending the tang to eliminate most all of the slack so it is not effecting idle. The cable should not be hanging loose, but not completely taut. Once the tang is adjusted and working, adjust the pedal stop bolt so that the cable is not putting excessive force on the linkage, particularly at wide open throttle. The pedal should bottom out on the stop. You may need a helper to get it right. I think what I did is retained the linkage / bellcrank at the engine open and then adjusted the pedal stop to keep the cable taut. The brown carpet picture looks acceptably taut. I did not have access to the Esprit V8 OBDII software when I did the job, but I understand you can use the software to check for wide open throttle (WOT). I didn't do this part, but I think the parameter you use is Throttle Position Sensor % (TPS%) on the OBD Data tab. Mine worked out OK as I don't think anyone had tried to adjust the issue out before. Looking at your photo's it appears you may need to check throttle opening as clearly 'someone has been in there'. I can't recall the size of carabiner (or 'quick link' in Home Depot language) I used. . I bought some in sizes 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" and selected the one that fit best; might have been 3/16" but I can't recall. Pretty sure 1/4" was way too big. The sizing issue is getting the carabiner hook large enough to fit securely around the throttle pedal while keeping the rod diameter small enough to not overly weaken the tang when it is drilled. I figure 1/8" or smaller rod will have sufficient strength for the fix to work ans it largely relies on the rod being put in tension to prevent tang bending; really more about what you can find to hand. I found the threads used in the carabiner closing nut to be an unusual size, so it was a bit of fiddling to get the rod and the cut carabiner attached. You may have to cut the 'biner and then select the matching ready rod. It seams we might get slightly different carabiners in Canada or Home Depot found a different supplier? Not a big deal to work around. Also note one end of the closure is left hand thread, which becomes the hook end. I considered just using threaded ready rod to make a one piece J hook by bending the rod. However, it is difficult to fashion to the correct length and install, as you have to simultaneously place the hook over the pedal, feed the threaded ready rod through a small hole in the tang, and then install & tighten a Nyloc nut on the back of the tang. It requires several attempts to size so the threaded rod and Nyloc doesn't contact the carpet. The suggested method looks a bit strange, but actually works OK to install in such an awkward position. I figured once I got the carabiner and rod sized correctly and installed, I could remove the assembly and use it as a template to fabricate something in one piece, but I found it worked OK as outlined. I also considered using a turnbuckle, but couldn't find one small enough. I figured something like this would work if I could find it locally. Would replace the ring end with #8-32 ready rod and a Nyloc for attachment to the tang (hoping it isn't the left hand thread end). Then bend hook as required to attach to the throttle pedal. The left and right hand threads in the turnbuckle would potentially make installation easier as long as the whole deal wasn't too wide.|categoryl1:%22601922%20Lifting%20and%20Rigging%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22601938%20Rigging%20Hooks%20and%20Attachments%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22601952%20Turnbuckles%22|~%20~|sattr01:^5pound8$|~ A few ideas. I actually sounds more difficult a fix than it is; just somewhat awkward. HTH Stu PS Nice cars! Where are you located?
  16. Good job! Caution far from home is wise. I believe it is Biblical. I am assuming the whole pedal box has to come out first. There is a circlip at the left side of the box (second box picture above). However, looks like the accelerator pedal would hit the footwell wall before the shaft could be pulled out of the box. I had the clutch master cylinder done and was told it was pretty much a pain, but i don't think it required box removal. You may be able to re-enforce sufficiently with the ready rod / carabinier fix, as I don't think there is much force on the weld when all buttoned up. I think my weld showed a bit of strain and I was a bit concerned, but no issues since the fix. Stu
  17. Looks bent to me, but agree the picture angles can be deceiving. The tang should have a very definite forward angle when viewed from the side, and I can't see this in your second picture. Not sure what the two bolt heads? are on your tang? Has it already been re-enforced I wonder? I just noticed another clue in your first photo of the pedal. Looks like the tang end is dragging through the carpet. This indicates bending has brought the tang too close to the tunnel. With the permanent fix installed the retaining nut in the end of ready rod is fastened on the outside of the tang where the cable attaches. Even with the nut and a bit of threaded rod protruding it still does not drag in the carpet. Yours looks close to jamming on the carpet, which I would describe as somewhat memorable. I guess the best comparison would be to approximate the distance from the carpet to the cable mount on the tang with the pedal resting on the floor stop. Or to measure the forward distance from the accelerator pedal face to the cable mount on the tang on a correctly working example? Unfortunately I don't have my car here at home to take a picture for you or make the comparison; maybe someone else can. Your stop bolt looks like it may have been 'adjusted' though, maybe as an attempt to get more travel due to tang bending? I will look around for other threads outlining the tang fix to see if there are better photo's. This is the thread that had more info on the permanent fix. You can see the forward tang angle indicated / approximated in the various drawings. Here are a few pictures of a removed pedal box I saved from a recent eBay listing for comparison. I would consider these to represent the minimum forward angle. I think one can see where this tang has been bent in the past. I saved the other pictures for reference when installing my cruise control, so they are not my car. Another point; you can always bend the tang back if you find a different issue when you get 'back to base'. HTH Stu
  18. Not sure what the previous topics might have said; sounds like they suggest adjusting the cable or improving the cable anchoring behind the carpet next to the seat? On my car I had slack at the pedal because of bending of the tang on the pedal (the thing the cable end engages to). I bent the tang back forward with large water pump pliers. You may be able to bend the tang with the pliers in your tool kit, or just buy a large set as shown below. The tang requires strengthening to prevent it from bending back, but it should be good enough to get you back home. Here is a thread with some pictures of a more permanent fix. I did this fix without removing the seat. Not sure if this is your issue, but perhaps check your throttle pedal to the picture in the thread. This is apparently a common problem on the V8. Mine got so bad that the turbo's were not engaging and the pedal was sticking because of the tang rubbing on the carpet. I simply bent the tang back forward enough to remove the cable slack at the pedal. The amount of cable slack at the footwell was about what you show in your picture. I did not have to adjust anything at the engine end or behind the carpet. With the re-enforcement method outlined in the other thread the problem has not re-occured, although I would notice the tang bending backward after a few days of use without the fix. I think I saw one guy re-enforced the pedal by welding as an alternative. HTH Stu
  19. I think Matt went through the header cap issue in a previous thread. I have found the V8 benefits from raising the rear of the car while running it to get rid of the air. The V8 has (I think) a further complication with bleeding because of the diverter valve. The heater core is by passed on one side when the engine is not running. I think this can trap air in the heater circuit while filling with coolant. and that can be a pain to get rid of. If you got an aluminium aftermarket radiator it may not have the bleed on it. Mine didn't. Makes it harder to get the air out. I found giving the car a good rip helped. Then let it fully cool and top it off. Would usually get mine in about three goes. Header tank replacement is good. One of the lines was plugged on mine, and it therefore took longer to purge of air. Are you 100% sure the line from the header to the overflow expansion tank is clear and sealed? The level in the expansion tank (in the wheel well) goes up and down about two inches as the car warms and cools? Stu
  20. Matt, did you check that all three fans are correctly cutting in at about 100 degrees on the gauge? Reach under and insure all three are working. You can do the rad fan check at a safe coolant temperature by turning on the interior fan and air conditioning, which will turn the radiator fans on. You could try a funnel kit like this one Lisle SPILL-FREE FUNNEL - 24680 You can see video's on You Tube on how they work. Basically attaches to the header tank cap and allows the coolant to expand without spilling while idling the car. This will allows any entrained air to bubble out. With the Esprit plastic header tank you may have to use the rubber gasket in the cap to get the funnel to seal correctly. HTH Stu
  21. For future reference, I have drawn together a bunch of V8 heater system information and pictures here... Thanks to all who contacted me with info. Also particular thanks to all the folks who posted information on the heater system in the various older threads. the system is confusing because it is covered in so many sections of the service manual and parts book. Hope the summary information is helpful. Stu
  22. LotuStuart and Sparky, I did a bunch more research on the V8 heater. I posted the gathered info and reference pictures here.... One part I am still a bit confused on is the exact differences between LHD and RHD stepper motor mounts. Before trying the stepper arm fix, please check out the photo's on the thread and take a look for access. My thought is you may have difficulty tightening the replacement servo arm on to the motor shaft without taking the motor out. On my LHD car I am pretty sure the motor shaft is towards the front of the car, so I could reach the socket head screw on the arm fairly easily. My car is in for repairs so i can't double check it right now. Are the RHD motors mounted so you can remove the arm easily and re-install the replacement? HTH Stu
  23. OK, did some more digging. I found the attached pictures on some of the restoration blogs and the Esprit Build picture file. I think the silver box in the first picture is a controller for the airbags (judging by the yellow connectors and harness). I think this view is taken from the drivers side looking forward of the gear shift opening? The brown fibreglass looks like the top of the tunnel? The plastic tee with the over-sized rubber elbows are in front. Hard to see the valve, but I believe it is behind the yellow wrapped harness, and there is a rubber elbow coming out the top like in the parts illustration. The wires to the electrical plug are White / Orange and Blue / White, which correspond to the wiring diagram for the 'Distribution Solenoid'. The second and third pictures show what I think is the same box tucked under the heater box at the base of the centre stack. This view is from the passenger side door. The fourth picture shows the tunnel partially assembled. I expect the blue lines are the vacuum lines. They may be black in stock form; I think I have seen them running in the engine bay from the top of the left tank over top of the engine. So, does that look right to you guys? Any clues on how to take apart the lower part of the centre stack? Stu
  24. I am trying to help a guy out with his V8 heater. His current primary problem is the mode flap does not work. The mode flap is the one that is moved by a vacuum actuator when the dash distribution control is placed in the air conditioning position, essentially shutting off the heated air and opening the two centre stack vents to cooled air. In the attached diagram from the Parts Manual Sheet 18.11 it is the flap shown upper left. We can see the vacuum actuator item 9 and the thin vacuum tubes, but not the electric valve that provides vacuum control. The part we are trying to locate in the car is Number 18, Lotus P/N Number A082M6666F, Solenoid Valve, actuator control, mode flap. Not sure if it is behind the centre stack, under the tunnel? Any help locating this rascal appreciated. Bonus marks for a description of what we have to dismantle to get at it and check the vacuum lines & wiring is connected correctly. :-) Note this component is the same Lotus P/N as Number 45, Lotus P/N Number A082M6666F, Solenoid Valve, actuator control, fresh air re-circ flap. This one is located in the foot well (as shown in the attached pic) and controls the flap located in the front boot. Same item but different function. Thanks Stu
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