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  1. Having just read Katos writeup on LEW, metioning the lack of Enzo's and Veyron's etc, if anyone is interested in seeing these I happened to take the kids to Beaulieu over the weekend, and currently in the entrance to the motor museum is a supercar exhibition, which to my surprise contains an Enzo, Veyron, Mclaren F1 GTR, and an F40. Entrance is a bit steep, about

  2. Hi Eddie,

    Welcome to the forum.

    Just a thought, and I am not going to bid on this by the way, but I think it a little unfair to thank others for not bidding. I am sure many of us on this forum have bid against each other for parts on ebay before, that is what an auction is about and everyone wants a bargain. If everyone asked this and respected it, the first person to see anything on ebay would be the winner. Just my view, and no offence meant at all - sorry, having a bad day. It is a nice looking keyfob by the way.


  3. I did mine about a year ago. Quite amazingly I found some stuff in Halfords, cant remember its name but I still have the aerosol in the garage so I can find out tonight if you wish. It dries slightly rubbery, but not tacky, and from what I could tell appeared very similar to what was on the car originally. I did a quick touch up job with it, masking the outer edges and used newspaper to cover any areas that I feared may get overspray, and lightly sprayed round each wheel well - I didnt even need to remove the wheels to do this as there was sufficent room to get the aerosol in and spray. It blended very well in colour and texture with what was there originally and I was very pleased with the results.

  4. I've just had all my brake lines replaced with braided (and finally replaced my front discs and pads with the turbogroove and greenstuff I bought from you Steve a couple of years ago). I also replaced the rear pads. The difference in braking feel is amazing, even without the new brakes bedded in yet. Having done it, I would recommend changing all the brake lines as a matter of course. I wasn't aware of an actual problem with my brakes, but I did test drive a car with braided lines before I bought mine and the brakes on that were definately better than my car before I upgraded.

  5. I bought an 89SE as it was the best example of any Esprit I could get for my budget at the time, which probably is more important than deciding on a particular model. No power steering is not a problem when driving, and no ABS is a very good thing judging by reports of the early ABS system. Simpler car should mean less to go wrong. I have had no problems at all.

    The SE and early S4 brakes arent great, and worth upgrading. I have just done the cheapest upgrade, turbogroove front disks, green pads all round, and braided brake lines fitted and the difference even without being bedded in is a great improvement. I found S4 wheels made the SE slightly firmer than stock, S4s chip is an amazing improvement over stock in both power and smoothness, and decat and sports exhaust is great for more low down torque. Also a pre 92 SE will pass an MOT test without a CAT fitted. And the icing on the cake is I still only pay

  6. I bought a car a few years ago that had a large amount of finance owing. I simply got a bankers draft made payable to the finance comapny to cover that, and another for the remainder of the amount made out to the seller. I am sure a lot of people who take car finance need the money from selling the car to be able to pay it off, hence expecting them to pay it off before selling is a non starter, as was the case with the car I bought.

  7. Its just as bad when you move away from British Gas. I changed supplier and British Gas continued to charge me. It took three half hour phone calls to stop them sending me bills, as they insisited they were still supplying me. Each time after much arguing (quite agressive on there part) they would eventually go away to check properly berfor agreeing they weren't supplying me and would sort it, and just to wind me up totally, instead of any sort of appology they would then start on a hard sell. I will never go back to them. There customer support is totally sales orientated instead of sorting problems.

  8. I fitted B&Q units in my old house, and MFI in my new house. I prefer the MFI units because they are constructed from slightly thicker board and seem more solid. Could just be the particular ranges I used though.

  9. I agree with Jonathan that 3 channel is probably 'safer' if you go it alone, especially with a powered glider type aircraft. However, given a good instructor and a conventional high wing trainer, I am strongly of the opinion 4 channel is best. Glider types aside, 3 channel trainers generally don't fly nicely. It always feels like you are battling against the plane, due to the increased dihedral normally present on this type of model. Admittedly, they can be more stable due to this.

    When I was instructing (normally on .25 to .40 powered aircraft), I found in a majority of cases those that started with 4 channel didn

  10. I started flying planes over 20 years ago, but now don't get much chance. I have been an instructor, competed in competition aerobatics, ducted fan jets, and done display flying.

    I would recommend buying a 50 to 60inch span 4 channel trainer as first model. Avoid anything with a glassfibre fuselage unless well made, as cheap glass models are heavy and do not make good trainers - dont make the mistake I made all those years ago. Having struggled with a heavy glass fibre 40 powered scale looking type trainer, I then tried an all built up trainer of similar size and learnt to fly much quicker. Start with 4 channel (aileron, elevator, rudder, throttle). Dont go the 3 channel route (elevator, rudder, throttle), theres no point, despite what the model shop might tell you - in order to introduce an extra sale.

    I have always flown ic, electric never did it for me and can still cost a lot to get good performance.

    As far as radio, you get what you pay for. I would recommend a set with rates, servo reversing and ATVS if possible (adjustable travel volumes), to make setting up the plane a whole lot easier. If you intend to fly more than 1 model with the same transmitter, computer sets are great. I have always used top end Futaba computer sets, that provide many more features, channels, and mixing that is required for advanced aircraft.

    An important thing to decide is where you are going to fly. Joining a club is by far the best way to learn and get instruction. This also influences the radio sets 'Mode' that you should buy. Radios are available in 4 modes, mode 1 and mode 2 being the most common. Mode 2 is throttle and rudder on left stick and aileron and elevator on right. Mode 1 is throttle aileron on left, rudder and elevator on right. It would be advisable to start with the mode used by the instructors in the club you join, as most people always fly one mode, so turning up with a different mode to everyone else will make it harder to get instruction.

    Hope this helps a bit

  11. Hi Jon,

    I've seen all the silicone on ebay and that is what I am considering using. Any idea how much is required - dont want to start ripping stuff out and not have enough to put back in so just wandering to the nearest few meters. Is it doable without taking half the car apart?


  12. I am condisering replacing all the vacuum hoses. Having seen how brittle they can become having removed the ebpv line, I thought this may be a worthwhile thing to do. Anybody know what length and diameters would be required for an SE. Also, is this any easy job, or are they routed through nasty places (I havent had time to check out the routing yet).


  13. Not sure you understood. I beleive by law K&N had to stop making #1 because the metal frame was a direct copy of another original manufacturers part. Information about this is on LEW, and as a result K&N filters for our cars were supplied without a frame, hence Jonathan's wibbly wobbly comment.

    I assume #2 is simply a modified frame for no other reason than the fact they were forced to stop producing #1.

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