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casewolf

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  • Name
    D.C.
  • Car
    2012 Lotus Evora S IPS
  • Location
    Germany

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  1. Funnily I don't have cruise control on the steering wheel! As I wanted to update that, I'll have to let it check (the earth) - thanks for your ideas. Also noting the time when it happens is a good idea!
  2. Its both paddles failing instantly - I would bet on the software, as I get it to work perfectly after a re-start of the car...
  3. No - it's just completely ignoring any input from the paddles from then on - without the usual warning triangle or any other dashboard lights...
  4. Hi all, after selling my Esprit S4 i treated myself with a 2012 Evora S IPS last year. So far I'm very happy and all minor issues were either "features" or quickly solved. But - there is one issue that starts bothering me, as it occurred already 3-4 times, and I currently can't reproduce it, as it happens rather randomly. When in Sport mode and using the paddles, the car sometimes suddenly ignores any paddle input from one second to the other. Only a restart (turning off and on the engine - or better said: software reset...?) can solve it (until it happens again, which may not even be on the same day...). Shifting in "Auto"-mode is unaffected and works either in "sport" or "normal" mode as intended and flawless, even if the paddles are dysfunctional. Has anyone experienced something similar? Should I check for any errors inside the ECU? Cheers & thanks! d
  5. casewolf

    casewolf

  6. Hello @all! Just wanted to come back and share my experience with you. As it turns out, the "oldest-official-Lotus-workshop" and "Esprit-specialist-garage" failed utterly. I won't drop names, but anyone in Germany knows whom I'm talking about. This is very annoying, because I lost my faith into them. Their behaviour is at the brink of cheating, but I won't say that officially, thats just my feeling about it. Without getting into much detail, I will tell you what I did. I discovered a corrupted hose (the one, that connects the Pump/Accumulator-Assembly with the Powermaster), it was sweating brake fluid. Seems it was at the end of its lifetime, and not since yesterday! It was then replaced by me and with the help of my mechanic we flushed the system 2 times (using the workshop manual, including the bleed nipples at the Master - @Paul93Lotus ... thanks for your offer!). I think even a third or fourth time could let the brake system benefit, as the second time there was still a lot of air trapped. So I'll do it another time soon, because, additionally there is a small leakage at the cover of the powermaster that will need to be fixed by a new filler cap for the reservoir. End of story: The car stops. BUT: Why hasn't anyone seen/inspected the hose before me? It was obvious (at least for a mechanic, not even a specialist)! Why did they tell me, that the car has been flushed, when it wasn't - or at least not properly? Why was the fluid like milk after depressurizing - and when I replaced the fluid, not? Did they use old fluid? Didn't they replace it? Too many questions for me. I'm very disappointed with the service I experienced and I'd expect any mechanic to take a focussed look at parts that are obviously not working properly, the way I did (5 minutes!). Instead they just did "something" (I don't know what...?) and charged me over 1000€ in the last year just for flushing the system three times. This car is something for people that are brave enough to fiddle around with components that have no OEM-replacement anymore. I'm not that brave. Regrettably, as much as I like the car, I think I need something I can at least order parts for...
  7. That is great to hear - could be the solution! Well, to be honest, we checked the front left caliper only, as the car is having trouble there. We detached it from the disk an checked the pistons sliding, they were doing so "normally", while I applied the brake carefully. We did that several times to see, if there is any hint of delay or tipping point, but to no avail. Anyhow: Next week the brakes will be disassembled and checked in detail. Keep fingers crossed. But: As I made up my mind about the car - it will be sold anyhow. I cant justify that kind of trouble to me, and I lost confidence in the whole system.
  8. It seems to turn out we're stuck. Calipers are OK, presuming Master Cylinder failure. We'll check some other things using the workshop manual, but some day we'll stop flogging the dead horse. As I won't be able to convert the car to non-ABS in Germany due to regulatory issues and the originality will be lost, I'm tending to sell the car. Question: Does anyone have any idea where to either get a replacement for the Delco PMIII master cylinder assembly -OR- know somebody able to refurbish them? Thanks!
  9. I second that. And also please try to stay on topic. My favourite setup would be something with an electric vacuum pump, as I don't like to dismiss servo steering. So if anybody has done it successfully, please do us a great favour and show us your results. Some images and a parts list would be perfect. If a small guide comes next to it, even better!
  10. Thanks for all your helpful hints and tips. There are some very informative bits that may indicate where to look at (which I will do and report): After the pump/switch/reservoir-assembly got replaced 3 months ago (!), the pump runs every 2 times (on average) the pedal is pressed. There is some issue with the pressurizing then - I noticed that and already thought that there is a problem. Interestingly the switch doesn't send an error code nonetheless. This will be checked, as it hasn't been ruled out yet. This is my next item to be checked - I will do so. VERY IMPORTANT info for me is, that the system runs front/back and not left right! That could mean I am lucky and the system itself is not the real culprit! Will do! Thank your very much for you strong support. I will try to thoroughly check all points mentioned and give you some feedback. BUT: The main topic was "how to change the whole setup". So if anyone got experience with that here or could support me with info, I'm sure I'd not the only one that would benefit from that. Cheers!
  11. Dear forum, I've gone through a long and frightful nightmare (not to mention costs) with my ABS. In the recent years I spent over 2000€ into replacement switch (Ralf Burk, Germany) solenoids (front, both) pressure reservoir endless, costly bleedings by Ramspott&Brandt To no avail. The brakes are crap, either they work mediocre, or the tell tale lamp plays disco, and now: The car pulls to the right when stopping, to an extent that is more than just dangerous. I've decided to either sell the car to someone willing to bother with the brakes or convert it to something like the SE setup. As I really enjoy the car when it stops(!), I'd like to ask and have a plea: Please help me with this conversion project. I got support from the workshop and a brave mechanic at hand. Is there anybody able to tell me how it's done? I already saw some threads from owners doing that successfully, but some sort of *partslist* or *how-to-guide* would be more than helpful - not only for me, I think. This could be "the" topic for anyone looking out for a permanent solution. The number of existing topics with ABS problems speaks for itself, and replacement parts are not available any more (or at a ridiculous price). Workshops don't like the system either, as it produces headache and isn't straightforward to maintain. I don't want to start a discussion about "does it make sense" or "any ABS is better than none", because I personally made up my mind about this system. I appreciate any and every help!
  12. Fabulous! Looks awesome, I lack the money atm but I'd have one in a heartbeat if I were a millionaire ;-)
  13. That was exactly what I did. Besides, no, there wasn't a hollow nut to hold the filter, the filter itself fixates the whole assembly. So it is of utmost importance that it's tight.
  14. Yesterday I fitted an oil stat from PUK Esprit and after fiddling for a while and getting almost a nervous breakdown (mixed up the pipings, but sorted it out finally - to my relief it doesn't seem to matter which way the oil runs through coolers) I filled the engine with oil, and guess what happened: It spilled everything out on the floor . It was partly my fault, partly the items. When delivered, take serious care of the fixing bolts/nuts on the stat. They have to be parallel (and tight!) in order to let the filter tighten the hole assembly correctly. Otherwise the nuts prevent the filter from pressing the stat tightly enough to the engine and upon oil pressure, you have a serious leak. I instantly stopped the engine and cleaned up the mess. Will see if I'm more successful today. It's a bit scary...
  15. Mine is 0.7-1 when hot (tickover) and about over 3 going at 3000rpm and higher. Refer to the manual, this is perfectly in range. Should be no less then 0.35 at tickover and min. around 2.4 over 3000 when hot. Cold oil produces higher pressure, obviously. Oil-Type changes pressure as well, I use Castrol RS.
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