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  • Name
    Howard Yakimishyn
  • Car
    2000 Esprit

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  1. Thanks Gunter. There is a local clutch shop that has come recommended by a guy that builds can-am and indy lite cars. I'm going to take the pressure plate into them later this week. If I am 100% comfortable that they know what they are talking about, great. I'll have the old stuff refinished... Richard, I appreciate your comments BUT... I am not the multi millionaire that the maintenance level on this car requires. If I can save $2000, that's $2000 for some other toy (or portion of a toy). Not every dime I make needs to go into this car. I haven't priced out the pilot (spigot) or release bearing but if history holds, I'm sure they are going to tell me something like $5000 for the pair. When I was talking to a dealer in Toronto, complaining about getting screwed on the cost of parts, he just said "yah, it's Lotus." I think he was trying to make me feel bad...
  2. OK, gearbox and clutch are out... Yes, there is evidence of slippage on the flywheel. My next door neighbor is a machinist instructor and I called on him to help lift the gearbox out. He is going to resurface the flywheel as a class project and promises zero runout when he done. I trust him. Can the pressure plates be reworked allowing me to only have to buy the friction plates? there is minor heat scoring on them, no ridges and no wear. if that's the case, I get to save a bunch of dough. I think I found the source of the problem. The pressure plate springs on the flywheel side aren't springing... When I was looking at it in detail, there was one wing missing off one side of the spring. I checked the others, snap, snap, two of them broke off. This explains the rapid wear on the clutch, slipping, etc. So, here's the new question. If the pressure plates are "good" can I get new pressure plate springs and use the existing pressure plates? Or is this something that just doesn't exist anywhere? Or, is this recommended? The clutch pack is about $4000, friction plates $1000. I don't have that much experience with clutches at all so I'm relying on others experience. For any newbies looking at pulling a gearbox, it's not a big deal. I was quite aprehensive about the whole procedure but after about 4 hours, it came out without issue. Much easier than I thought it was going to be...
  3. I just pulled my gearbox and clutch. Same thing here although there are no broken springs on the pressure plate, everything is perfect except for the worn out clutch. something must have gotten in there somehow... Mine has about 1/5 the nicks that yours does but there is evidence of something hitting the clutch carrier bolts as well. go figure... at any rate, I'm in for a new clutch which is quite painful financially.
  4. Ok, finally spoke to a mechanic at the dealer that works on Esprits almost exclusively. He cut me off short and is certain that it's the clutch. I'm fairly certain as well since the pushrod is nowhere near the bell housing as it should be in a new clutch. I spent about 1.5 hours on it tonight and I'm pretty much ready to pull the gearbox. So far it's straight forward. I'm not sure if that clutch fork is going to come out but the service manual I have says it doesn't need to be out, just released. Once I had all the plubming disconnected, it dropped all the antifreeze so I washed it again and I'm just waiting for things to dry out. Sure am glad I have a floor drain and hot / cold water in my garage! More updates as I bust more knuckles... also, quotes on a new clutch pack are pretty wild. Once I have the gearbox out, we will see what I can get away with versus the complete assembly. I called a few dealers and some are saying it's a whole unit, some are saying that you can just get the friction plates. my fear that is if it damaged the flywheel, I may need a new one or at least a resurface.
  5. Thanks Gunter. One final diagnostic question... Over the last day, the situation has become much worse. The car doesn't want to go into first gear from a stop. going from first to second is also sticky and not comfortable. The gears grind and it will eventually go into gear but it's not pretty. In my head, I'm thinking that this can no longer be a bearing and must be clutch or something else. I'm still experiencing no shudder on take off and no slippage in high gear with a full load which would point away from the clutch. Is it possible that the slave isn't pushing the release bearing from the clutch pack to get full clutch disengagement? Could a sticky bearing be causing all this grief? Could it be the master that isn't sending enough pressure to the slave to move the release bearing? I need to nail this down as close as possible... The dealer is 1200 kms away and there is nobody in town that can provide parts so I need to order everything I could need before I start to minimize downtime. As it stands now, the car is undrivable. Also, if I have the gearbox out, are there any other things I should replace in a regular course of maintenance? From everyone's advice, I'm still left with a few possibilities and I need to tighten up that list: Slave cylinder? Master cylinder? Spigot Bearing? Clutch pack? Where do I start? Where would you start?
  6. Alrighty, Here is where we are at: Clutch pedal adjusted (it has more throw than recommended but I assume that's not an issue) linkage adjusted - no change it was fine already. Clutch bleed. Slave pulled, no leaking, no issues that I could see Clutch bleed again just in case since it was already opened up. None of the above helped at all. This is interesting and may help you help me figure out what's next. While I had the slave off, I used compressed air to blow out the clutch dust (w/respirator, I'm not dumb) and after I put it back together, the first couple shifts into reverse were like butter. Once I had gone through a couple of cycles, the problem returned. So my question is, was it because I took the slave off or because I blew out the bell housing? My thought is that when I blew the dust out, perhaps the pilot bearing was freed up a bit and this is where the real issue is. Anyone have any thoughts? If this is the issue, do I have to pull the gearbox or will I have enough room to slide it back, pull the plates and work on it from there? One of the posts in another thread suggests that it can be done and then you don't have to pull the shafts. If you have some experience with this type of surgery, please let me know what I'm in for. As Stink suggests below, yes, hit 2nd with some engagement and then a quick shift to reverse works but it pisses me off if any of my stuff isn't perfect and that's a work around, not a fix. Cheers. H- ps - Gunter, I signed up for the full LEW forum subscription as well.
  7. Hmmm, no fluid loss ever from a resevoir perspective. It's been 100% static I'll pull the slave tonight and see...
  8. Thanks freshcut. I will pull the slave tonight and check to see if there is any leakage at all. There are NO issues getting into any gear while the car is off. I did put over a liter of fluid through when I bled the clutch and there were some very tiny bubbles that came out after the first few strokes but none after that. If there is a bubble trapped somewhere, it's really trapped... Is there any way to tell if the slave is epxeriencing any "blow-by" on the seals? I read some of the other posts about the slave moving 1/10 of the master but i doubt you would be able to see if fluid is being bypassed without any load on the piston. Thoughts?
  9. I'm hoping to not have to yank the gearbox if possible... it really doesn't look that bad but I want to make sure I lay my hands on a service manual before i even start. if anyone has a link, .pdf or idea where to buy one, please pass the info along. Also, with the dealer 1200kms away and stocking NOTHING, I'm destin to have the car down for a couple weeks minimum if I end up down that path. freshcut: Going back over your original post you mention that occasionally it shifts well, and other times you have to work at getting it into reverse. Is it random, or does it seem to occur more frequently in certain situations such as at initial startup, after driving for a while, etc? no, it's a regular bitch of a time now. One other poster mentioned that he has to get the car rolling in first to get to reverse. we aren't there yet but it's been getting slightly worse over the last week after I have been "fixing" it. Any noticable loss of fliud? none. everything is dry with no loss of fluid. Does the pedal feel any different when working correctly vs. struggling to shift? it's really only in reverse. 1 -> 2 has never been a quick or easy shift so I have learned to not hammer on it for this shift. all the rest of the shifts are seamless up. On the way back down 3 -> 2 and 2-> 1 are slow and chunky but not really an issue. maybe I just learned to drive around it... There are NO other esprits in this city (1 million people) so I don't even have a frame of reference to compare against. The pedal is 100% consistant. no change at all. it feels better after I ran 1L of fluid through in the clutch bleed but no change at all... I'm off to Calgary tomorrow an I know that there are at least a couple esprits in town there. If I'm lucky, I can track someone down and get a frame of reference on their car. Oh yah, no slippage in 5th, full load on the clutch. no chatter and no change in engagement since this started a month ago. Does this mean we are eliminating the clutch as the issue?
  10. Thanks for response... How about gear action into first? No issues. It's not super fluid but no issues getting to first. A bit chunky but it's never not wanted to hit first. I wouldn't automatically jump into the need for a new clutch. Most signs of a worn clutch include a chatter at take off, as well as slippage when in high gear and full power applied. No chatter at take off, it's smooth... As for slippage at high gear, none that I'm aware of but I can easily test that one. How many miles do you have on the car? ~13,000 how many have you put on yourself? ~4000 Any known clutch replacement since new? No, sorry no history. I'm the 3rd owner and the second owner never had the car long enough to do anything. He was enamoured with a DB9 and had to sell this one. How would you describe your clutch style? (i.e. aggressive with lots of hard shifting, etc or gentle and frequent attempt to try to rev-match?). LOL! If you had a high performance sports car in the garage, how should it be driven? It's also my daily commuter so to and from work (3miles), it's a serene drive but when I get the chance, I'm into it for sure... No super hard shifts / missed shifts but I do put my foot into it. You have to check and make sure the rev limiter is still working from time to time, right? Other ideas?
  11. Hi all, before I posted this, I looked at all the previous posts and I think I'm screwed... My 2000 Esprit has developed an issue getting into reverse over the last month. Sometimes it's ok, most times you have to really yank on the stick. I read through all the other posts and this seems to point to the clutch since it got gradually worse but not yet unbearable. I think I'm in for a new clutch but before I commit to that, I'm looking for a service manual. My dealer is a full 1200kms from my house and I have learned that if you want to own this car, you better know how to turn a wrench. There is one shop in town that will take it in but I really don't feel like getting raped this month for something I *should* be able to handle myself. In the process of elimination, here is what I have done: 1. Gearbox fluid r/r. No help here, same issue however on the bright side, no real metal in the fluid. Just a few flakes of brass. 2. Clutch pedal adjustment. Again, no help here, same issue. 3. Bleed the clutch. Waaay simpler than I thought it was going to be once the trunk pan is out. No fix. Next is to do a gearshift alignment but I need the service manual. Does anyone know of a spot I can download? After that fails, I think I'm in for a new clutch where that service manual will be really handy... Any other thoughts from anyone out there? Thanks! - Howard.
  12. Like Bibs says below, I just consider this a "feature" of the car and I'm not all that concerned about what's behind me at 250kms+. Both side mirrors shake like hell too...
  13. I read through a few of the posts from those that had ventured down the path before on getting the alternator out... It really wasn't as bad as some have experienced and the alternator was lying on the floor in about 45 mins. I called the dealer yesterday - $500 for a rebuilt. No chance of that! I have a local place that just rebuilds auto electric and it will be rebuilt for about $180. If I beg, they should be able to get it done today and I'll stuff it back in the car tonight. I still have no idea why the idiot light won't light. Any idea if that's traced back to a fuse or something else?
  14. Good Call! But.... No, I swapped it out for a working bulb with no change. On the bright side, I did find another burned bulb in the instrument cluster that needed to be replaced. Any other ideas? Oh, yah, before I narrowed it down to a charging issue, I thought it was something more serious, hence the OBD reader... It's not a multi-thousand dollar unit but it can't communicate with the car anyway. It just gives me a fault instead of a "no codes" message.
  15. Hey, there. So, I'm cruising down the road on the weekend in my 2000 Esprit. ABS light starts flashing, SRS light, same thing. Check engine light comes on... Great I'm thinking. I stop the car, start it again, no lights come on. I drive for about 2kms, same thing happens. After a bit, the car starts coughing and puking, backfires, etc. then just dies. Alrighty then, I assume I have a battery issue. The battery was charged fully, same issue. OK, then I put a multimeter across the posts of the battery and it's down to 11.6V. I started the car, same reading ~11.51V. I jacked the car up and with it running, put the multimeter on the +ve lead off the alternator, same reading. Now I know for sure my alternator is pooched. Shouldn't the idiot light on the dash have lit up? Also, for some reason, my OBDII code reader wouldn't pull a code from the car... I read through one of the other forums on the saga that member had trying to get the alternator out. I know I can have it rebuilt locally for cheaper than the dealer's rebuilt one (+ they are 1200kms from my house). wish me luck pulling this out. Any advice why the light wouldn't come on for a charging issue? Is there something else I should be looking for?
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