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The Veg

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  1. The Veg

    The Veg

  2. Car was sold in 2014; moderators please delete this thread.
  3. Lotus Turbo Esprit (1986) Date Added: 17 February 2014 - 05:45 PM Owner: The Veg Short Description: *FOR SALE* as of February 2014 This is the only 1986 Turbo Esprit in USA in this colour, and the only one in the world any year with this combination of paint/leather/carpet according to Andy Graham at Lotus (I have certificate of provenance and a letter from Mr. Graham verifying these facts). I've had the car for three years and while I love it, it needs to be in hands that can provide better stewardship than I can give. I've spent countless hours of hard work caring for this car and righting some wrongs committed by a previous owner, and it is in much better condition than when I bought it. Here's a list of what I've done: C-Service performed less than 10K miles ago Green dot (Euro-spec) cam sprockets JAE silicone cooling hoses JAE blue cambelt Rebuilt water pump Turbo intake duct upgraded to smooth-flow metal design Alternator upgraded to Bosch AL299 90-amp Clutch line upgraded to JAE braided stainless New temperature sensor New intake system gaskets New oxygen sensor New plugs and wires New intake system vacuum hoses New auxiliary air valve New throttle cable New fuel tank vent hoses New fuel filter New rear suspension bushings New ball joints New shift-linkage bushings New dual-trumpet air horns New solid-state gauge-voltage stabiliser Headlights upgraded from sealed-beam to H4/H1 New COBO UK-spec (amber/white) front turn signal lenses (original lenses inlcuded) Speedometer rebuilt, cable drive upgraded New upholstery approx. 50% New amplified hidden radio antenna New Kicker DS-Series loudspeakers (front and rear) Radio updated by previous owner to Alpine CD circa 1996 (original manual and detachable-panel carry case included) Clutch master cylinder rebuilt The car spent most of its life in a dry climate and has NO corrosion of the chassis or suspension. Cosmetically it is not perfect, but condition is still very good with only minor chips in the paint, no warps/wrinkles in the bumpers, etc. This is a 28-year-old car and does have a certain amount of 'patina,' but it still receives plenty of compliments wherever it goes- especially about the paint-colour! My main focus as owner was the mechanical condition, as I bought it to drive rather than to look at- but it looks good too. I have addressed the interiour condition though and have had some upholstery-work done in areas where the original leather was perished beyond hope. I have retained the original leather in all passable areas. The upholstery-work was done by a former interiour-trimmer from Panoz. Also included: a small stash of spare parts and memorabilia, outdoor car-cover, repair manual/parts list CD-ROM, and a set of body-protection panels that were once used by Lotus dealers when performing engine repairs (I don't recommend using them but they are a VERY rare piece of shop-kit as most were discarded years ago). This is an exciting, sweet-driving, wonderful car that will bring you joy for many miles. Contact Ben at [email protected] View Vehicle
  4. Problem solved. The big flat ring is a reservoir-cap gasket, and the smaller mystery-bit is not used as the kit was not specific to this one application.
  5. H'lo gents, long time no see! I'm rebuilding the clutch master cylinder and there are more rubber bits in the kit than in the clylinder. Specifically, there are two items in the kit that don't have counterparts in what I've taken apart. They are indicated with red question-marks in this picture: The larger one is just a flat ring, doesn't fit anything on the M/C and it doesn't seem to go anywhere. I'm not worried about that. The smaller one has a tapered outer diametre and I want to know if it is supposed to go somewhere. No such part came out of the cylinder, but that doesn't mean that the original part might not have completely dis-intergrated, although given how much of the other bits is left I'm not sure of that either. Anybody know where this part goes, or if it's needed at all?
  6. Anybody know what else might use these lower joints? I already know that the uppers are Spitfire bits.
  7. I've just found this thread too. I've seen the JPS car in Atlanta owned by this James chap, even met him a time or two. I don't know specifics, but I've heard some mumblings that he's perpetrating a fraud and that it isn't really Andretti's car. So what ever happened with the car Barryj was after?
  8. Hmmmmmmmmm, I wonder if this explains the mysterious oil-drip I have? I recently did a whole bunch of gaskets and cleaned the living daylights out of the engine...and a big drip keeps coming down the front-right corner of the pan and I've been going nuts trying to find the source. Will have to look into this.
  9. Between the too-skinny-for-the-rim tread and the angle of the rear wheels it almost looks like a Yank teenager's 'tuned' Civic. Beautiful otherwise; congratulations on the win and it's good to see our cars get some well-deserved recognition.
  10. I don't think that there was any particular vehicle. The auto-parts store simple had a display of lots and lots of struts, arranged by size/type. There may have been a book to determine what goes on what vehicle but I don't remember. I just brought my old strut in and compared until I found a close-enough match. I do remember that it was at an Advance Auto Parts store though. If I remember to, I can look and see if there's any identifying marks on the strut itself that will help you.
  11. If it was my car I'd either leave them all silver or do gold centres like my original wheels...but more likely all silver, brilliant natural metal colour rather than silver paint.
  12. My '86 has two different threaded pieces of metal inside the knob- one anchored in the wood, the other merely inside the wood but not attached. This second piece seems to serve as a locknut, and in fact has a slot across it so that a g-wrench or similar tool could probably manipulate it. I'm with Luc on this one; get a really good grip with something soft, and put some good torque on it.
  13. Jonathan- no, mine aren't threaded on like that. Luc- it wound up not being as bad a job as I'd expected. I popped loose the end that attaches to the hatch, and managed to hold the hatch higher than it usually opens with one hand and re-assemble the strut with the other hand. That said, the brackets to which the struts attach on the firewall are looking a bit tired and have bent a bit from years of stress. Might have to make up something fresher at some point, but it's not urgent.
  14. *SO* tempting -as if I didn't already spend enough on this car- but just not in the budget unless some sort of miracle occurs.
  15. I have a Federal '86 and it has the gas-strut, but it doesn't have the threaded ends like Jonathan's car. It has a ball-joint on either end, and when I bought the car the strut was knackered and would not hold the bonnet open. I took it to the auto-parts shop and compared to what was in stock and found one the right length with the right ball-joint sockets on either end. The thing works really well, and while I have to lift the bonnet initially, at about half-way up the strut takes over. The only problem I had around the mounting points was that the jacknuts in the bonnet were loose in their holes, making it impossible to tighten the screws. A few drops of cyano-acrylate cement cured that. Now one of today's projects is to re-mount a rear hatch strut that has popped loose from the bottom end...LOTS of pressure in the thing and it wants to be longer than the distance it must span. Gonna be fun.
  16. If your drive keeps popping out, I wonder if it isn't being retained by the bolt. If yours is like mine, getting the bolt out far enough will require removing the muffler (silencer for UK folk reading along), which is not a difficult job. Behind the transmission there is a plate upon which the muffler attaches, and there is a hole in that plate that allows clearance for the bolt to come out. Back the bolt all the way out and remove the drive unit. Take care at this point, as the driven-gear isn't secured to the drive unit and may fall back into the hole. If that happens there is no need to panic; just keep calm and use a magnet-wand to fish it out. At this point you may wish to refresh the o-ring that is supposed to seal the unit in the hole (it can weep though since oil is splashed up toward the unit due to the transmission turning 'backward' to the direction it went in the original Citroen SM application). It's a weird size; I had to have the guys at the auto-store bring out every box of O-rings and we finally found a compatible size among the green ones meant for aircon use. I also found an additional groove in the plastic drive-guide and put an O-ring in this groove even though one was never specified there. So far so good as far as nipping the oil-weeps. Now when you re-assemble, apply some good thick grease to the driven-gear's shaft before inserting it into the drive unit; this will help keep it from falling out and dropping into the hole while you're inserting the drive unit. Once the drive unit is in place the gear can't escape. When you've got the drive-unit seated, run the bolt back in and re-assemble the muffler. Done.
  17. BRAVO Charlie! Your car is looking really delicious! :clap:
  18. I'm pretty sure that the factory recommend using new bolts, but I don't have my manual handy to check this. In any case, JAE carry a nice set of bolts made by ARP which are great because they have a smaller head than the original bolts, making them much easier to get tools onto in close proximity to the cam-lobes. I found that they made the re-assembly job a bit easier.
  19. Yep, did the O-rings at the same time that I did the gaskets.
  20. For the sake of comparison, by 1986 things were a bit different. On my car the alternator belt comes off first, THANK GOODNESS because I have to remove the alternator to do so many other jobs. I'm pretty sure that I remember the water-pump belt coming off next, which would be easy except that it is tensioned by the vacuum-pump, and the fastener on the vac-pump is almost impossible to reach up on top of the pump behind the pulley and I need a filed-down allen wrench to get it (don't get me started about the whole process with the vac-pump!), then the aircon belt, which won't come off unless I completely remove its tensioner-pulley.
  21. Not sure if there's any difference between your '81 and my '86, but no, the tanks are not visible through the holes. Each speaker has its own 'socket' behind the plywood.
  22. Have you tried RD Enterprises or Dave bean? If neither of them can help you, try SJ over in UK.
  23. Rick, here's his info:
  24. I can vouch that LCU don't really know much about the special dip-stick. It was a mystery in a friend's car for a while. Where is the oil level light located?
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