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About DaKa

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  • Birthday 11/07/1961

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  • Name
    Damien Kavanagh
  • Car
    Lotus Esprit X180 1988
  • Modifications
    Suspension / Brakes
  • Location
    Hutton Essex

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  1. I managed to get a few replacement parts from EUROCARB, Reading and fitted them carefully - now my engine is running great and perfectly balanced. The main problems were: 1) I was somehow missing a mixture screw spring (£0.67) 2) Broken pump rod spring (£1.98) I lavished out on 4 mixture springs and 2 pump springs plus 4 x O rings - really pleased to have resolved this. This episode has taught me much about Dellorto DHLA45 carbs
  2. Hi Rob, I found it difficult also knowing where all the serviceable parts in the carb rebuild kits are supposed to go. The service 'technical' manual which I have, although it details the inner workings of carbs, and setup, mixture, balancing etc. it doesn;t give the level of detail needed about pulling the carbs apart. I know more now about my carbs having taken them apart 3-4 times and I'm now waiting on some missing parts from the company that provide and exploded diagram which I found very useful to know what I was missing If you check my recent post, you will see that I mistakenly purchsed brand new turbo original Lotus cards thinking they were right for my N/A, so let me know if you get stuck or the cost of a professional refurb seems unreasonable.
  3. Thanks for the input. I definitely will not be trying the new ones! They were quickly put back in their wrappers and I'll either trade them or keep them for my next 'Turbo' model I did however notice when I pulled the old ones apart again one little spring missing from the mixture screw (previous owner(s) as I'm certain nothing was dropped or lost when I applied the service kit) and a couple of other parts damanged which I will either source/replace or give to someone with the right equipment to rebuild? I see SJS provide a service, £425 plus VAT which I feel is prohibitively expensive considering they want your old in exchange.
  4. Appreciated Andy, For the moment I've put the new ones back in their box and will have another go at my old ones while they are off the car. I was so disappointed they were not right for my N/A as I had envisaged a quick swap here and an all singing dancing motor. Once I adjust or fiddle with the new ones they will be of less value should I decide to sell them. I may just keep them as I certain my next car will be the turbo model. From what you say, if I can't get my old ones running smooth again, then it's just a matter of changing the jets and perhaps getting an alternative float cover, or, blocking off the hole on the right of the turbo float cover and then replacing the cap (held down with 2 screws on top) with my existing, which presumably has some sort of breather/ventilation?
  5. Found another Pic on the forum - looks like these are carbs for Turbo as there is some piping connecting as shown - sugar!
  6. Hi All, Have a made a costly gaff, or, is there a solution? As I went finally today to replace my old tired carbs with new old ones and swapped a couple of bits over, I noticed when I removed 2 stickers that I thought were covering blanks, they turned out to be where something is clearly needed. Have I got any options here other than to repackage and sell and start again? What are these 2 extra for, are they related to the turbo model - see diifs in picks above and side of float bowl.
  7. I don't know enough to check these (except for the normal service parts) thoroughly, but have been assured they are specific to the N/A Esprit model from late 80s. I'll check the obvious and then likely give it a go 'plug and play', or, wait until things are 'normal' again and get them fitted by an expert while the belts and other jobs are done - I guess it just depends on how much longer this lockdown goes on?
  8. Thanks gents - this is the package winging its way to me on Monday - going to feel like Christmas has come early! These must be quite rare Old/New
  9. Sorry to ask again, but does anyone know why the mixture screw on these New/Old Carb images doesn't have a flat head screwdriver adjustment? I'm asking again because I've now bought these and await delivery - I guess I'll soon find out. Item 60/61/62 on the diagram shown on the link suggest a screw adjustment as with my current carbs: I've been informed that it could be an anti-tampering plug on originals that affected warranty if removed?
  10. I'm not familiar with the SE, but I did have a problem with my fuel supply a while back and the forum helped to give me the confidence to fix it. I was lucky that my car had replacement Aluminium fuel tanks, but there was a blockage shown in the post: I can also confirm that when I reconnected the banjo bolt drain plug at the bottom of my fuel tank a new copper washer is essential as even the slightest fuel leak does really stink as it can gather in the side sill and no the floor. From underneath the car, just infron of the rear wheels you should have a whole to inspect the tank, on the inner side in the same area there's a large rubber grommet that the fuel pipe passes through towards the pump which for me is underside on the left side just behind the seat fixings. It's just some fuel clips to undo and drain the fuel, but you will need a big gatherer or two if your taks are full. With the car empty of fuel changing the pipes (I think standard 8mm) if they leak is made easy. It's obviously easier if the rear of the car is up a ramp or you have an inspection pit. apologies for spelling errors as I re-read. hole not whole., infront not infron , tanks not taks
  11. I could spend £100-£150 on replacement parts and get my carbs fixed properly, or, I could consider buying new and selling my existing. (I bidded recently on ebay for a single DHLA45 less venturi and it went for circa £170 - so I could get back perhaps £300+ selling my old pair?). I'm tempted by a genuine matching pair of original lotus new/old carbs specific to the N/A X180 but perhaps from a slightly later model. Can any confirm from the pics? Also is the mixture adjusting screw blanked, or, being newer does it need a specific tool to adjust?
  12. Can anyone tell from my posted picture above whether I have an early or later model DHLA45 float cover. I also found a broken spring No.71 on the diagram in the following link - it had snapped in the middle and therefore not as efficient as it should be. I've even airflow though all 4 venturi and have now tuned to make the best of things - overall I'm pleased with my efforts, acceleration is smooth with no misfire or spit back, but I do have a hiccup when idling along the road at say, 30-35 mph in 4th gear - not sure if that means too much or too little fuel mixture and not an issue when the revs are higher same speed in 3rd or 2nd gear? When I get the replacement parts, I'll do it all again.
  13. Not quite final yet, when completing the refurb kit I noticed one of my 2 float covers had slight damage where the pin securing the floats was damaged on one side (obviously the previous owner punched the pin out with a sledge hammer). I can see some 'Carburettor Top Cover' on SJS circa, £66 which isn't too bad, but whenever I enter my car build version on SJS site nothing appears! Presumably they are all the same or are N/A DHLA45 carbs different on other models? Looking elsewhere, they refer to DHLA45 'later' or 'early' carburettor float covers - what do I have?
  14. And finally to finish things off, I found the twin carb initial start setup and tuning explanation on youtube below perfect for my understanding and level of requirements for my N/A car. Although slightly different carbs here, the mixture screws, air bleed screws and airflow balancing are all easily understood.
  15. It's officially - I'm a numpty that is in need of stronger glasses I disconnect the fuel pipe at the filter and connected a pipe from it into a petrol can and the pump was clearly working fine when engine ignition on. Blowing down the pipe towards the carbs didn't to much so I removed the float covers. I attach a picture of the old versus new (on the right) No.13 part that houses the pin so you can see what No.23 looks like - it's clearly a final ultra-fine mesh filter. It wouldn't sit properly in my new replacement No.13 part, so I had to either put back in the old or remove - I opted to remove for now but have kept for next time. It was when I went to re-attach the floats that I noticed my stupid error! When I took off the float cover first time and removed No.41 (pin that hold floats in place) it all came apart - with my bad eyesight I didn't realise that there was a slot that had to be hooked into the new needle/pin as shown in the other image - Doh! I had just simply placed it underneath and consequently it closed the pin instantly. Now running well (and I've learned something). So although a little embarrassing to have shared, perhaps it will save someone else's blushes. The Forum feedback above saved me a lot of time - appreciated.
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