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C43

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  • Content Count

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About C43

  • Rank
    LOTUS
  • Birthday 12/11/1965

More Info

  • Name
    Christian
  • Car
    Evora NA, Esprit S2 WC, Esprit S3 Turbo 1984
  • Modifications
    2bular exhaust. ICE upgrade speakers, amp, sub. Diamond cut alloys.
  • Location
    oxfordshire

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Hi, I have one spare thats bent to shape, PM me if your interested.
  2. yes I did and made them up, looks good. I may have a spare, will let you know.
  3. haha,. I found a place in wales which does exactly the right size and pattern but only in stainless steel not aluminium. The stainless will last better but obviously heavier which is upsetting me a bit! https://www.themeshcompany.com/products/-6-Mesh---3.33mm-Aperture---0.9mm-Wire-Diameter---SS304-Grade----Woven-Wire-Mesh--56.html#SID=59
  4. Hi I am just refurbishing the engine cover on my 84 turbo and would like to replace the wire mesh on the center. Has anyone found a good place to buy the original spec? thanks C43
  5. I put my sub on the lhs under the panel that goes around the window on the lhs on the engine. That way its close to the battery so power is easy to get to it. Otherwise I would go through the speaker hole in the rear bulkhead, again on the lhs. This is how I ran my pre outs to the sub and the speaker cables back. I have now done away with pre outs and have connected a bluetooth direct to the amp and drive it of my phone.
  6. know what you mean by glamorous assistant! BTW if your rotate around the top mount you tend to open up the gap at the front of the door, if you rotate around the bottom mount you tend to close up the gap at the front of the door. Looking at the geometry I did not think it would make much difference but in practice I found this a useful way of adjusting both the height of the door and both the for / aft movement of the door. Useful if you are being anal about getting your shut lines good (better!). Which your rotate around depends on how much you undo the bolts holding the top and bottom hinge points. The one you are rotating around you undo less. So if I wanted to open up the gap on the leading edge then I would undo the top bolt by 1/2 turn and the bottom bolt by 1 turn (having first taken the weight with my jack) then jack the door up a little and retighten. BTW the absolute number of turns to undo the bolts by are by memory from my car, yours might be different. Let me know if this is not clear. cheers C43
  7. I held the door up with a car jack at the end and measured the distance to the ground, I found it easier to accurately adjust the height when open that way. I took the weight off the door hinges with the jack then undid the hinge bolts inside the body a bit then lifted the end of the door with the jack then did the door back up. If you open the door and lift the end up and down and feel inside the hinge mechanism you should be able to feel if there is any play and hence if the bushes have worn. Even if your hinge bush has worn rather than the nut plate sliding I guess you can still lift the door a bit with the hinge mounting bolts rather than changing the bush itself. good luck C43
  8. is there up and down play in the door hinges. If so then the normal cause if the plastic door bushes have worn out. Bit of an epic to change. I have done it a few times now and I would still recon on a full day to do one.
  9. I must admit the diagram in the parts book is not great. I had to put mine back together as just about everything was disconnected and it was a complete PITA! Any questions PM me and I will try and help. Mine is an 84 turbo with aircon.
  10. Hi I would be interested in one set as well. thanks Christian
  11. I don't think you would find anything that would withstand the heat. I guess now we would apply a coating to the shaft. Ask a turbo supplier perhaps? BTW shouldn't you have heat proof wrap on your chassis legs? cheers C43
  12. my hubs came away from the discs quite easily but I did soak in WD40 for a while. BTW on my Wilwood I ended up with different spacer setup left and right. Something is obviously wrong but I never found out what despite measuring and re measuring a lot! Also remember you need to set wheel bearing endfloat with callipers removed. Oh and on the bleed nipples I see to remember you just undo the top part of the nipple, not the bottom, or something like that. I got it wrong the first couple of times and was wondering why they would not bleed properly. either way you will probably need to go around twice then drive the car then bleed again. cheers C43 my hubs came away from the discs quite easily but I did soak in WD40 for a while. BTW on my Wilwood I ended up with different spacer setup left and right. Something is obviously wrong but I never found out what despite measuring and re measuring a lot! Also remember you need to set wheel bearing endfloat with callipers removed. Oh and on the bleed nipples I see to remember you just undo the top part of the nipple, not the bottom, or something like that. I got it wrong the first couple of times and was wondering why they would not bleed properly. either way you will probably need to go around twice then drive the car then bleed again. cheers C43 ps great looking car!
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