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chris last won the day on December 30 2018

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About chris

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  • Birthday 31/08/1978

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  • Interests
    cars, more cars and even more cars. plus drinking while talking cars. Suppose you could add fast girls with that

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  • Name
    good girl whenever she works
  • Car
    esprit turbo 1988(stevens)
  • Modifications
    Adjustable suspension, PNM Eng 4pot callipers all round, larger front discs, SE front bumper and lower spoiler, V8 custom wheel arch extensions, OZ saturn alloys, S4 leather seats, double din stereo and sat-nav, boost controller, Wasted spark OMEX ignition system, chargecooler, re-jetted carbs, 3" exhaust system.

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  1. As buddsy says, unless you are emotionally attached to it (like I stupidly am with mine) then better off selling the n/a and getting a turbo. If you do, then I’d suggest an SE or S4 rather than a carb turbo depending on what your budget will stretch to. Over the last 17 years of owning my carb turbo the only reliability issues that were specifically turbo related, as opposed to espritisms, were down to the carbs, dizzy or exhaust manifold. I’ve converted mine to fuel injection, electronic wasted spark ignition and fitted an alunox manifold and the car now runs beautifully however it depends on your view on modifying. If you want more performance have you considered what gains you could get by converting to fuel injection and wasted spark ignition? I’m fairly certain that you could get the same sort of power on today’s technology that the carb turbo had as standard and within your 5k budget. Think I’ve seen articles in the club lotus mag and absolutely lotus on this being done by excel owners. If you do go for another car, make sure it has air con as you definitely don’t want to retrofit that lol!!!
  2. Cheers Dave, I thought that to and usually I would fit them with the groove forward however, these discs have curved vents and the manufacturer reckons both vanes and slots should angle rearwards for cooling and dust evacuation respectively. Done a bit of goggle-ing and couldn’t find anything definitive from the brake manufactures on slot direction as they seem to use both forward and rearward angles (most curved, some not) depending on application and company. Vane direction originally seemed counter intuitive to me, had to remind myself that they pump air from centre out and not ram air out to in (my excuse was that it had been a long day, the mrs said it didn’t matter as I was still special!! Starting to think that’s not meant in an endearing way). Suppose we shall soon see if it makes any difference once I get it out on the road lol. Main reasons for fitting these were: • they are slightly bigger than the 325’s I was currently trialing. • they are 20mm thick rather than 23-25 mm giving my aging calipers more room (suspected that one of calipers wasn’t adjusting up to disc properly due to being pushed right back in order to get it to fit). Bought some spacers for the calipers but saw these discs and thought I’d give them a go. • with an aluminium bell housing they are considerably lighter than the solid 325mm I had fitted. • I needed to get the 325’s grooved to consistently work with the more aggressive CL pads but was trying to avoid that noise we have discussed previously from grooved discs (might not make any difference but as these disc’s come grooved from the manufacturer rather than retro machined, thought it might be worth a try).
  3. Finally fitted my new front solution. Alumium bell housing on 330mm vented and grooved disc with CL pads. Just got to bed them in now, hopefully a dedicated run tomorrow and then the trip to slough and back on Saturday will do the trick!! My garage is starting to look like a holiday home for barely used brake discs
  4. It’s been a while however things haven’t ground to a halt. Progress so far: climate control system and heated screen works great and the carbon dipped parts look really good (photos to follow). The alcantara head lining is significantly better quality than the previous material and doesn’t wrinkle up in different climate conditions like the old one used to. The carbon fibre sunroof not only looks great but it has stopped all the irritating bumps and rattles that the glass one made (thanks jacques)!! seats now spaced and will actually nice on runners (thanks eeyorish). inner door handles and surrounds replaced with new ones as they were looking a bit tatty. Also replaced the drivers door lock clip which kept coming out every time you closed the door. So now got central locking back yey!!!! lotus shadow lights fitted into doors (the more gauges and lotus badges the better)! All front lights converted to LEDs which has transformed driving at night. Definitely worth the money as I can actually see where I’m going now. Not forgetting how cool the white light looks as opposed to yellowy originals. Bumper meshes secured properly and Rad undertray modified, which at least makes the front look better. and finally I have a new set of front brakes!!!
  5. Not able to measure the discs at the moment so wondering if anyone has this info to hand? i know the diamter and width of the disc but I’m trying to find out the dimensions of the 4 mounting holes (pcd) and bore of centre hole? i think the depth of the bell housing section is 10mm. any assistance greatfully received.
  6. It’s a sad state of affairs gentlemen when you have a stunningly cool car and instead of pulling girls in it you’re thinking of getting jiggy with the dashboard. I know leather wipes clean but really, cum on!!!!
  7. Thanks for the suggestions guys. the mrs loves the flowers idea (no chance) already got the boost controller fitted in the centre console. was thinking of putting the usb/Odb port in the glove box but this might be an alternate option. Don’t want to have to make the hole any bigger so an AF meter is out of the question plus I wouldn’t be able to easily see it. Could wire a switch up to the central locking but think the alarm has the function to auto magically (typo but fitting) lock the doors on ignition. Plus only ever been concerned driving through 2 areas over the last 20 years and have no plan to revisit them lol. Decisions, decisions... a mate suggested under floor lighting but thinking that’s a bit too fast and furious for both me and the car lol!!
  8. Hi all, im looking for some ideas on what to do with the hole in the dash where the choke lever once lived. I have converted my car to fuel injection and therefore no longer require the plunge switch lever. Could just blank it off with a black plastic trim piece but thought it might be nice to have a button there. Only problem know is for what function??? thought of an omex launch control button but it’s a bit primitive and I’m not in a rush to change my clutch!!! other thought was maybe fitting parking cameras front and rear and use a switch to select between the 2?? suppose I start button is an option, just seems a bit pointless as would still need the key. thought about fitting electronic parking brake (as have rubbish hispec rear caliper system) but then the handbrake lever is redundant (it annoys me when things don’t do anything)!! Anyone got any other ideas?? Cheers chris
  9. I had similar issue and traced it to the T piece under the drivers quarter panel on top off fuel tank. Another common culprit is the elbow by the heater matrix. Good hunting!!
  10. Dipped and mains are a kit sold by pnm (listed on their parts site rather than the website). Kit consists of replacement back plates and levelling mechanism in stainless steel. Although I had to remove some fibre glass out of the pod to fit the new lamps you can always retrofit the originals if you so wish. For the other lights I just tried to find the best equivalent bulbs in led format. Although I had the Phillips extra bright halogen bulbs fitted, my original lamps had been in the car for about 10 years and were a little clouded and starting to corrode again. Hadn’t failed an mot but found them rubbish when driving at night especially when combined with bad weather. These lamps are a massive improvement!
  11. All front lights converted to LED’s and not only does it look cool but I can actually see once it gets dark!! Mains were a bit of a pain to fit but sides and spots were just a bulb change. Although not exactly cheap it wasn’t extortionate especially when compared to the cost of replacing all 4 standard lamps. Plus being completely sealed units they should last longer.
  12. I didn’t notice any difference in lag characteristics between the 2 chargecoolers. Obviously it’s possible just didn’t change the way the car felt to me when driving. I did however notice a difference when I swapped the turbo out to a hybrid unit similar to the S4 spec but that was to be expected as my original T3 was smaller and couldn’t give me the power I’m looking for without getting itself all hot and bothered. Are you going for increased performance or just looking to keep everything cool? If performance then I don’t think you will see as much of an increase as you would with a larger cc and rad. If it’s purely a way to aid cooling then you could look at spraying water in front of the rad (I think some of the Jpn cars use this technique on the air to air inter coolers) no idea how effective it is though!
  13. I fitted the aquamist system in an attempt to stop pre-ignition, therefore any performance gain I got was down to upping the boost level rather than the water inj. At that time my car was running carbs and a dizzy and so no changes to the timing. Although Lotus used the air con rad on the S300 you dont need to loose the air con to do this! I simply replaced the original C/C rad with a more modern and bigger aluminium unit. You can see some pics of the install on my project page (if your interested), its entitled "the never ending project". When i swapped from the standard C/C to the Alunox version, the intake temp went from 80 degrees and climbing (on rolling Rd) to being able to maintain a constant 60 degrees. I have since fitted a heat barrier and turbo jacket from Funk motorsport and the larger C/C rad which has brought the intake temps down further. Water/meth is definitely the cheaper option however IMO performance bang for buck has to be C/C route + its power on tap all the time without needing to ensure the water/meth reservoir is topped up.
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