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About Laida

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/09/1965

More Info

  • Name
    Paul Ainsworth
  • Car
    Espirit S3 1982
  • Modifications
    K&Ns, 4into1 Manifold, Adjustable front shocks
  • Location

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  1. I read a story somewhere about the inclusion / design of the beam. Apparently ACBC was adamant the Esprit didn't need it & was due to be picked up by the first prototype from an airport. The story goes it collapsed just as it pulled in to pick him up. I think the gearbox mountings were designed to be part of the structure, it just wasn't strong enough in practice. Maybe someone knows more about the original tale?
  2. Mine's bright / fluorescent green - I thought it was a particular type for early alloy engines? Only came to check as I just found a leak and was seeing if anyone could help me identify trapped air "hotspots" :-( Sorry for the pun again, I'm actually being serious - Bled the radiator, but still unhappy when engine gets up to temp..... Any suggestions?
  3. Laida


  4. Hi Andy, I have to confess I managed to fit my dizzy cap on the wrong way up i.e. 180 degrees out. Lots of popping in the inlet manifold, but thankfully no fire. Quick and simple to check - there was about 5 - 10 degrees play when on the wrong way, fitted snug the correct way (and the thing fired up too!) LA
  5. Hi Mike, I've had exactly the same problem this last week - popped, spluttered & died (on a fast uphill). Couldn't restart, then kicked over first time with RAC man (we had moved on to level ground by then). Next day, same problem, same place. Helped diagnose a bit i.e. something loose that disconnects on steep hills. If you're backfiring, it is unlikely to be a fuel issue - fuel is making it through to the exhaust to pop away (mine was VERY impressive). Steve is on the right lines, but I traced my problem back to the ignition switch (after replacing every connector & soldering all weak points). Intermittent faults are very hard to diagnose on the amplifier / limiter modules IMO. Just a final thought - do you have optronic ignition - 3 wires coming out of the distributor? If so, it's worth taking the distributor cap off and cleaning the IR sender & sensor (straddling the maltese cross thing) with alcohol & cotton bud. Mine was covered in black dust & solved this issue 2 years ago. Good luck & don't feel too bad about the pressure governor - if it's the one with a switch (wire connected), it can cause erratic problems. Good luck, it's just such a shame these things pop up now we've got lots of sticky tarmac to play on! LA
  6. Lotus Series 3 (1982) Date Added: 03 August 2011 - 12:40 PM Owner: Laida Short Description: Copper coloured beauty (Lotus call it Bronze) with (horrible) caramel leather & brown carpets.912 engine with K&N filters.Bonnet (boot) has damper type lift, which (according to SJS) is not correct for year. I tried to replace this with the slider type but bracket too big (screw holes too far apart.) I'm assuming this was a change over / using up old parts thing?Otherwise a nice example with black bumpers and gold & silver alloys. View Vehicle
  7. Hi Andy, What bits do you need? The clear plastic lens / bulb holder comes from a (proper) mini. The rubber bit I can't help with. LA
  8. Hi Massimo, I'm sure the radiator is "borrowed" from another car, as is a lot on the car, but the mountings are unique to the Esprit. I'm doing a cheap refurb of my radiator and have had to make a new section as well as order another replacement section from SJ. I'm wishing I had just replaced the whole thing with a shiny new radiator from SJ instead. The point is, the radiator is held by 2 bolts on the body and supported with 2 on the bottom cowl. They need to be very strong as a full radiator with fans is heavy! I'll put a full review on the forum when I've done if you want to see how I managed. Good luck, LA
  9. Hi Pete, The notch is to hold the shim, as Gary has shown. It's to give a slight toe in. Note, the toe in should be on the leading edge i.e. the top of the piston for the caliper, so that it is the first part to make contact. I've just replaced my front discs but didn't get pics of the calipers (rush job), but just to make absolutely sure, the shoulder on the caliper should be at the top of the piston, so the shim fits on the lower part. That way, when the wheel is rotating forward, the top part of the brake pad is the first to make contact. Further pressure will cause more of the pad to make contact & slow you down quicker. Obviously, with time, the pad will even out, so that it has a slight angle wrt the metal part. I'll attach photos of the old pads if that helps. It is worth checking the position of the piston with the shim, once you've rebuilt - before you install it - as I found mine quite hard to rotate and line up perfectly once they were back on the car. Good Luck! LA
  10. Hi Jeff, I can't remember who posted the tip first, but I had the same problem which was easily fixed by having the front of the car raised (about 1 foot) when I bled through. This is probably the same technique as described by moving / rotating the calipers, but a bit easier imo. I do mine on a pair of ramps, but have scratched the front spoiler / air dam by not adapting the ramp with a plank of wood. Don't overlook the bleed screw on the front of the master cylinder (if you have one), I've had an air pocket there before as well. Good luck, Laida
  11. Hi Hopo, I've had problems before with the clevis pin catching at the top of the brake pedal (where pedal links to servo). Have a look with a torch and depress pedal a few times to see if it catches on the pedal mounting frame. If the pin is in the wrong way round, or worn, it can catch here. It's a fiddle to fix, as the servo needs (almost) removing to allow the pedal to move forward enough to remove the pin. Let me know if this looks like it's the case, I'm rebuilding from servo forward at present so can send pics. Otherwise, it's probably the servo / master assembly. I had an issue with an old mini servo where the diaphragm split that caused the same symptoms. Sounds like you might have already talked to Steve at SJ - I'm sure he'll diagnose it first time. Good luck! Laida
  12. I've an S3 with colour matched binnacle but find it a real pain at night. Glare from oncoming traffic gives an annoying bright patch on the windscreen just where it's not needed. If you get the choice, go for the black as driving with shades at night is a bit difficult.
  13. Good to hear you're all sorted. As if by magic my passenger side stopped moving last week!!!!! Easily fixed with a bit of fiddling...........for now.
  14. I need an air filter housing for my S3. Can collect if somewhere in the South west or London areas. Condition not too much of a problem. Cheers
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