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Grahaml

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About Grahaml

  • Rank
    LOT
  • Birthday 07/04/1957

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More Info

  • Name
    Graham Lyell
  • Car
    Stunning Lotus Esprit V8-GT in New Lotus Yellow (Spice) - ex - Porsche 911 owner
  • Modifications
    clear sidelight/indicator lenses, lights left on buzzer, interior/exterior temp guage and clock. Welll it's a start!!
  • Location
    Fauldhouse, West Lothian

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  1. Hi - I haven't a clue to be honest there was no mention of either that I can recall. I just now looked on eBay for "sports cats universal" and this is what came up. Ebay link... I'm not saying these were the ones I fitted but they looked like that. It's worth noting that unfortunately I think I will need to fit proper cats for MOT next year as I only passed this year thanks to a very understanding and helpful (mate) MOT tester. Like a lot of these cars it doesn't get used a lot - about 1K miles a year and so maybe theres other things I could do to get through emmisions test but it was very well warmed up before the test.
  2. yes all was well - not using the car much but I will have a couple of issues to see to over the winter. 1. Cam belts: - I plan to do them myself. Rather than spending £322 on a crank/cam locking and tolerance pin set I have had a set made up by an engineering firm. I plan to do the job with the engine in-situ - no rush although an american guy on Youtube does it in a few hours - I'll take MUCH longer. 2. I need to replace the catalytic convertors. I made up a set myself last year using sports cats (taking your advice Gunter) but they barely scraped through the test this year (thanks to a VERY obliging tester) and I will need to have it fixed properly for the next test in April.
  3. thanks for replies - confirms my view - can't believe the prices for basic bits of metal!! Not too sure if I'd trust the crank positioning to a piece of wood - knowing my luck it would split and I'd end up havonig to re-time the cams as well as replace the timing belts! I'll work something out I'm sure - it's not a job to make a mess of. Graham
  4. I am building up courage to do the belts on my V8 - in situ. I just got a shock when I costed the crank locking tool, the cam locking pins and the camshaft tolerance pins - non standard kit from SJ is £315. Even the crank tool on it's own is £77. They are such basic bits of metal and I feel ripped off if I have to buy them at that cost. My son who works for an engineering company reckons they are 1st year appprentice skill level jobs on a lathe (I reckon I could make them easily myself if had a lathe) so I will see if I can get some made up myself - for free maybe - or at a small cost. Does anyone know (or can you provide) the dimensions I need? I know the important bit of the setting pins is 4.7mm diameter and the tolerance pins are 4.2mm diameter. Do I need the setting pins? I thought they are more for checking the cam timing? I could probably manage with just metal rods of the correct diameter for the cam setting /tolerance pins. What about the crank tool - looking at the manual I might be able to measure the dimensions myself although access looks tight (I havent looked in the car itself yet). Or does this club have tool lending/hire that could help? Thanks
  5. I see what you mean - they are described as double contact whereas the Bosch relays just switch the continuity from 87a to 87. As you sad though (as far as I could see) all the other circuits that the relays serve don't use anything on the 87a terminal so are effectively off until activated - then the circuit switches to the 87 terminal as required. The part of the circuit diagram I uplaoded shows that on the secondary fuel pump relay. Out of the 8 relays in the rear box 6 of them are grey Bosch relays and two were the brown siemens (AMR1088) ones. When I was looking for replacements it seemed to me that these are a very common type - I couldn't find any (except for the ones) I bought that have the twin contacts. If I've missed them somehow and you know where to get them at a good price let me know. My searches found the brown ones used in Landrovers. Car's working though which is the main thing for now - and I've learned a wee bit more...
  6. OK - a little bit of digging showed up what might have been the issue with the relays. while I was looking at the relay in preparation to test them I noticed there was a slight difference in the circuit diagram between the grey Bosch relay and the brown siemens relay. Digging a bit more I see that they are different and I need the brown Seimens type for the fuel pump. The grey Bosch ones keep part of the circuit completed - which I trhink is why the primary fuel pump kept running and the fuel kept being recirculater from the tank - around the fuel rails and back to the tank. Apart from my own ignorance the thing that threw me about the relays is that they all have the same Lotus part number - I spotted that the different relays hasd been mentioned before on the V8 parts cross reference thread which I spotted last night @Günter I've attached some copies from the wiring diagram relating to the fuel pump and injector circuit and from the parts diagram and list. I also checked online on the dereure website and they are still listed as the same part number. http://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp?TBL=1480&MAK=1&MDL=15&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0 you will see that the grey relay has contact 87a connected and 87 unconnected when the relay is "off" whereas the brown Seimens one both 87 and 87a are unconnected when off and both connected when on. Anyway - I hope this makes sense to you and can help in the future. O've found the correct brown relay is also used oin Landrovers and more easily (and cheaply - probably) got. I've not found another equivalent one. As Gunter stated in the cross reference thread - and when I looked through the wiring diagrams it seems that the primary fuel pump and injector relay is the only circuit that needs the brown relay I've not actually tested them on a meter yet but it looks logical to me ands is why the grey bosch didn't work properly - it kept the fuel pump on when not activated but cut the fuel off when activated and the car would only run for a few seconds until the fuel in the fuel rail was used up. It does seem to be a pretty drastic error in the parts list though?
  7. well - good news. Having a think and doing a bit more research I'd come across someone who'd had a problem with a sticking relay. So I swapped the relay with another one and it all worked fine. The fuel pump stopped running when I switched off and the car kept running when I started it. I'd already ordered a couple of new relays when I discovered the faulty one yesterday. I've had the car running for probably an hour, stopped and restared several times - sorted I think... I didn't have any more time today so I will check the relays later to see what the faults are. What I think .. The original one that was in position C (primary fuel pump and injectors) just wasn't working. the one I swapped into position C was from position G (A.C. Compressor) did open the circuit but stayed open ( probably permanently making a circuit) the one I put in today (from position D (ignition) worked fine (I put the one originally from the A.C. slot into the ignition slot) As you might expect the relays have been replaced at some point previously in the car's history and the one that had been in the fuel pump/injector slot was a seimens (as was the one from the ignition slot that is working now). The rest are Bosch. The replacements I have ordered are Bosch too but that's just because I found them first at a decent price. I'll be back on the road in a couple of days as soon as I refit the boot floor. Easy eh ................ Thanks for all the advice guy - hopefully this little tale might help someone else in the future...
  8. I had a bit of time looking at the Lotus this afternoon. looking over the circuit diagrams (I have a set of workshop manuals) based on advice here I strated to track the circuit. Fuse - OK Relay = I was reluctant to take apart so I found one the same (there are lots as it tuurs out) and I swapped the one from the A/C compressor circuit into the fuel pump & injector circuit. Imediately I got an extra bit of whirring and the car started on the key. Sorted!!! - I though - it was the relay all along. I shut it off and restarted several times and it was fine. I was in an enclosed garage so didn't want to run the engine for more than a few seconds anyway. However when I opened a door in the garage for air, started the engine and it ran for 12-13 seconds and cut out. This happened every time (I timed it). Also the whirring sound remained - even with the ignition off. As far as I can tell it is the fuel pump running - circulating (and recirculating) fuel along the fuel lines and back again. I'm thinking that my problem might be the pump not giving enough pressure to keep the car going. I will get a pressure tester (there are lots on eBay) and test it. But - does anyone know if this would give the other symptoms I'm getting - like the pump continuing to run even when the ignition is off. I had to remove the fuel pump fuse to stop it when I left it tonight. I also found that fuse B7, 7.5 amp (ignition controls) was blown. I didn't have a 7.5 so put in a 5 amp for now but I couldn't see any diifference. I'm wondering if the fuel pressure needs to be higher to actually cut off the pump (even with ignition off??) - sounds a bit strange to me. Or could there be a wiring problem elsewhere causing that? I'll do a bit more digging myself - I already found the thread about the fuel pipe as part of the pump splitting and reducing the pressure - that will be one to check anyway) At least I had it running again (12-13 seconds at a time) !!! Graham
  9. Sorry. No progress. I've been distracted by my mini cooper s. Had a burst coolant hose, overheated enough to blow head gasket, replaced head gasket, still leaking coolant into oil, take head to be checked and skimmed to find it is cracked. Replacement head collect Monday. At least it is something I feel I'm making progress on eventually. I can't get any info from running engine as I can't get it to start now. I will just need to follow the various suggestions and work through to find and repair the problem. I might get a chance later today to have another look. I will update as soon as I can. Graham
  10. Thanks Günter I'll have a look over and try what your suggesting. I just need to be logical - fuel pressure might be an issue - would it cause the car just to cut out dead though - I might have expected it to falter and stutter a bit first? When I was out at it earlier today I tried to start it and it felt like it was trying to catch on the first try - but nothing after that. I checked that the fuel was flowing - but not the pressure. I can certainly have a look into how to power up the second pump - although from what I read it runs at start anyway before resting again? I never got round to taking the plenum off - I would need to do that to check power at the injectors anyway. Cheers, Graham
  11. thanks guys I did find today one wire had worn through and separated and another two had worn bare where the went under the cross-rail at the gearbox. I sorted that but no affect on starting - and it hadn't had any noticible affect while it was running. I trid once and gave up - couldn't get it to run and as Barry said I have been using OBDII scanner and software. I think I can run Freescan though - and I might get round to it at some point (can I?)
  12. update: No joy so far.... It was running then stopping. I timed the past coupld of occasions as I was checking for faults in wiring/connectors. It ran for 14 minutes, it wouldn't start again until about 5 minutes later. It started again and just kept running. I gave up and switched it off for the ady after 45 minutes. I had been rummaging around under the car (its up on wheel ramps) and I found a set of wires tyhat looked like the could have touched the cats - where they curve up over the driveshafts. I'd pulled it over a bit and secured it clear with tie wraps - so I wondered if there was something in there. Next day went out thinking it would be OK and I would strip that bit of the wiring harness back and see what the problem was/has been but no... tha car wouldn't start at all.. To rule ignition out I checked and am getting sparks. I pulled a connector off the fuel rail - getting fuel pressure there, so I think that confirms it is an injector systems problem. I haven't tried bridging the connectors at the inertia cut off switch - although the connections look good and it was running the day before. I've removed the boot floor to get better access to everything - and found and cleaned the earth connections from the ECU to the bell housing although the looked good anyway. I've pulled and reconnected the ECU a couple of times - all looks good at the connection - I think I might pull it out anyway. I was going to remove the plenum cover next to check any connections under there - leaving the ECU to last!!! And to cap it all my other car - a wee (BMW) mini cooper S Supercharged sprung a leak in a coolant hose and looks like it just migfht have blown a head gasket. An easy fix compared the the Esprit. Thanks goodness my wife has a normal sensible (reliable) car....
  13. thanks Andy - as you might see from my replies above the pump is whirring as expected. There's also an additional pump on the V8 that from memory is for high speed duty but does fire up at start also as a check. The symptoms are not like I would expect from fuel starvation - it just stops - like the ignition is off - but the earlier codes seem to point to a fuel / injector issue. As you say - it's something affecting all the injectors. Graham thanks both. If other avenues fail then I will give Craig a call thanks Thanks Mike - I will check that.
  14. Thanks for feedback so far; I will have a look under the plenum again - I had it off at the beginning of the year and replaced the coils and fitted new magnecor HT leads. I'll do the other stuff first I think though to save dismantling if I can avoid it. The car was running fine until it cut out! I pressed the switch - couldn't detect any moveemnt in the switch. The car does run until it stops - and just waiting a minute lets it start again. I might try bypassing the switch - it looks do-able from the wiring diagram - am I right? As I've been trawling through various other issues that did occur to me. There are two pumps in the V8 - and I can hear it when I switch the ignition on for mayby 3 or 4 seconds. as above - i do hear the fuel pump - but I guess still a possibility that it's not right? I haven't checked the ECU connection - where is it exactly? it looks like the ECU is on the check list anyway. Thanks Mike The earth strip from the ECU to the bell housing came up in a previous reply (I think from you also) and is an easy check - I saw another issue I that it might be worth an extra/replacement earth strip from the battery. I hapy I can maybe test these out using a jump lead? I thoink I will have more difficulty getting an ECU swap but if can find someone or a company that can check, repair/refurish mine that would be an area to look to? I could certainly give mine a close visuual inspection. As above - certainly something I can look into - I'll try the less intrusive stuff first though Thanks all
  15. sorry - my bad typing (and rushed proof reading) the codes were P0201, P0202, P0203.... through to P0208 (not P0108). So the codes were all Injector circuit malfunction, cylinders 1 to 8 - all cylinders. So I reckon not an injector issue as it appplied to all - most likely part of a circuit or connection that applies to all cylinders/injectors. I've attached screenshot of the OBD app I was using and extract from workshop manual relating to the codes
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