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Grahaml

Full Forum Member (FFM)
  • Content Count

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About Grahaml

  • Rank
    LOT
  • Birthday 07/04/1957

More Info

  • Name
    Graham Lyell
  • Car
    Stunning Lotus Esprit V8-GT in New Lotus Yellow (Spice) - ex - Porsche 911 owner
  • Modifications
    clear sidelight/indicator lenses, lights left on buzzer, interior/exterior temp guage and clock. Welll it's a start!!
  • Location
    Fauldhouse, West Lothian

Recent Profile Visitors

4,044 profile views
  1. Gonzalo was very helpful with me and his YouTube video was a brilliant guide.
  2. I've an android phone. I tried lots but the best (easiest) was one called Easy Tension by Hutchinson
  3. Update: Sorry for the delay - bad weather knocked out the electrics to the garage so no light for a couple of weeks - then other stuff held me up. However - pleased to report back that utilising the advice from Gonzalo (many thanks) it was pretty straightforward to recover - although a bit time consuming. Took the boot liner out for access, removed the airboxes - for access to the cam covers, Took the plenum off then one of the cam covers so I could see the cams. It was 360 degrees out as I suspected - but I really just couldn't tell that the Tolerance pins were bit fully in wi
  4. Many thanks all. After my initial shock I'd calmed down and I believe it's all recoverable. The car isn't in gear - I checked that first with hope in my heart- but no..,, Thanks for the suggestion Gonzalo. I have disc printed already in preparation to check the timing belt tension so I'll follow your advice. I'm still a bit mystified about how I could have got it 360 degrees out - I did try the pins 360 opposite from what I eventually used but exposing the cams will let me see for sure. Maybe the cams were mis-time d enough to stòp the pins fully inserting - I'll see though.
  5. Thanks - he gave me encouragement to do it with the engine in place - he also gave me the exact dimensions of the tolerance and setting pins as well as the crank locking key and the tension adjuster tool -so I could get them made up here. Very helpful guy - I might drop him a note anyway.. Thinking about it now - I'm not too concerned - I think I can do it with the engine in place: Take the cam covers off, move (might need to remove and refit) the camshafts until they are in the correct position, lock them up, check the belt is fitted properly - then finish the job (put it all together a
  6. Well I put it off a long time (but not many miles). Had a go at changing cambelts on my V8 - engine in-situ. Definitely do-able but it sure is limited access at the front of the engine - made worse by all the coolant pipes and various tubes and wiring!! I got timing pins made up to exact (lotus) sizes by an engineering firm which saved a few £. It was slow going - lots of time spent getting from under the car -then climbing into the boot (trunk) and lying over the engine - took ages even getting it locked into place. Got the old belts off and new (blue) belts refitted - with lots
  7. Hi - I haven't a clue to be honest there was no mention of either that I can recall. I just now looked on eBay for "sports cats universal" and this is what came up. Ebay link... I'm not saying these were the ones I fitted but they looked like that. It's worth noting that unfortunately I think I will need to fit proper cats for MOT next year as I only passed this year thanks to a very understanding and helpful (mate) MOT tester. Like a lot of these cars it doesn't get used a lot - about 1K miles a year and so maybe theres other things I could do to get through emmisions test bu
  8. yes all was well - not using the car much but I will have a couple of issues to see to over the winter. 1. Cam belts: - I plan to do them myself. Rather than spending £322 on a crank/cam locking and tolerance pin set I have had a set made up by an engineering firm. I plan to do the job with the engine in-situ - no rush although an american guy on Youtube does it in a few hours - I'll take MUCH longer. 2. I need to replace the catalytic convertors. I made up a set myself last year using sports cats (taking your advice Gunter) but they barely scraped through the test this year (than
  9. thanks for replies - confirms my view - can't believe the prices for basic bits of metal!! Not too sure if I'd trust the crank positioning to a piece of wood - knowing my luck it would split and I'd end up havonig to re-time the cams as well as replace the timing belts! I'll work something out I'm sure - it's not a job to make a mess of. Graham
  10. I am building up courage to do the belts on my V8 - in situ. I just got a shock when I costed the crank locking tool, the cam locking pins and the camshaft tolerance pins - non standard kit from SJ is £315. Even the crank tool on it's own is £77. They are such basic bits of metal and I feel ripped off if I have to buy them at that cost. My son who works for an engineering company reckons they are 1st year appprentice skill level jobs on a lathe (I reckon I could make them easily myself if had a lathe) so I will see if I can get some made up myself - for free maybe - or at a small
  11. I see what you mean - they are described as double contact whereas the Bosch relays just switch the continuity from 87a to 87. As you sad though (as far as I could see) all the other circuits that the relays serve don't use anything on the 87a terminal so are effectively off until activated - then the circuit switches to the 87 terminal as required. The part of the circuit diagram I uplaoded shows that on the secondary fuel pump relay. Out of the 8 relays in the rear box 6 of them are grey Bosch relays and two were the brown siemens (AMR1088) ones. When I was looking for replacements i
  12. OK - a little bit of digging showed up what might have been the issue with the relays. while I was looking at the relay in preparation to test them I noticed there was a slight difference in the circuit diagram between the grey Bosch relay and the brown siemens relay. Digging a bit more I see that they are different and I need the brown Seimens type for the fuel pump. The grey Bosch ones keep part of the circuit completed - which I trhink is why the primary fuel pump kept running and the fuel kept being recirculater from the tank - around the fuel rails and back to the tank. Apart
  13. well - good news. Having a think and doing a bit more research I'd come across someone who'd had a problem with a sticking relay. So I swapped the relay with another one and it all worked fine. The fuel pump stopped running when I switched off and the car kept running when I started it. I'd already ordered a couple of new relays when I discovered the faulty one yesterday. I've had the car running for probably an hour, stopped and restared several times - sorted I think... I didn't have any more time today so I will check the relays later to see what the faults are. What I thi
  14. I had a bit of time looking at the Lotus this afternoon. looking over the circuit diagrams (I have a set of workshop manuals) based on advice here I strated to track the circuit. Fuse - OK Relay = I was reluctant to take apart so I found one the same (there are lots as it tuurs out) and I swapped the one from the A/C compressor circuit into the fuel pump & injector circuit. Imediately I got an extra bit of whirring and the car started on the key. Sorted!!! - I though - it was the relay all along. I shut it off and restarted several times and it was fine. I was in an encl
  15. Sorry. No progress. I've been distracted by my mini cooper s. Had a burst coolant hose, overheated enough to blow head gasket, replaced head gasket, still leaking coolant into oil, take head to be checked and skimmed to find it is cracked. Replacement head collect Monday. At least it is something I feel I'm making progress on eventually. I can't get any info from running engine as I can't get it to start now. I will just need to follow the various suggestions and work through to find and repair the problem. I might get a chance later today to have another look. I w
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