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  1. Gonzalo was very helpful with me and his YouTube video was a brilliant guide.
  2. I've an android phone. I tried lots but the best (easiest) was one called Easy Tension by Hutchinson
  3. Update: Sorry for the delay - bad weather knocked out the electrics to the garage so no light for a couple of weeks - then other stuff held me up. However - pleased to report back that utilising the advice from Gonzalo (many thanks) it was pretty straightforward to recover - although a bit time consuming. Took the boot liner out for access, removed the airboxes - for access to the cam covers, Took the plenum off then one of the cam covers so I could see the cams. It was 360 degrees out as I suspected - but I really just couldn't tell that the Tolerance pins were bit fully in without seeing that. Moving the crank to the safe position, rotate the cams until they lined up properly with the setting pins in place it was much easier to see whee I was. That was the RH bank - I didn't have to take the cam cover off the LH bank as I knew what to expect (feel for) after doing the RH bank. Access was a challenge as you all know but got the new blue belts fitted OK - tensioning was not at all easy as it was easy to overtension then you need to start again - rotating the crank fully - lots of clambering into the engine bay - then out and under the car (repeat as necessary!!) However - utilising an app on my phone I was able to get consistent results within tolerance. I rechecked the cam positions, rechecked the tensions etc - all good. Yesterday finished putting the covers back on (even that wasn't easy with the limited access) - fitted the new aux drive belt, and checked all the connections I had removed or disturbed, and - it started fine. Today I did a wee bit more, refitted the airboxes, partially refitted the boot liner (still to be fully bolted down, topped up the coolant - I'd lost a bit with the header bottle lying loose and low and cleaned around the engine bay and gearbox. There were a few errors showing on OBD reader - Cam position sensor and a few others - probably as I'd started it without the air filters initially and I'd rotated the cams independent of the engine. Cleared them and all seems well. Having done it once - despite the difficulties I would definitely do it again - much quicker and simpler after the experience gained! Many thanks for the advice
  4. Many thanks all. After my initial shock I'd calmed down and I believe it's all recoverable. The car isn't in gear - I checked that first with hope in my heart- but no..,, Thanks for the suggestion Gonzalo. I have disc printed already in preparation to check the timing belt tension so I'll follow your advice. I'm still a bit mystified about how I could have got it 360 degrees out - I did try the pins 360 opposite from what I eventually used but exposing the cams will let me see for sure. Maybe the cams were mis-time d enough to stòp the pins fully inserting - I'll see though. I had already taken the plugs out anyway. I'm optimistic about it being a relatively straightforward fix now -turned over slowly by hand (there's not much access to do anything else) I wouldn't have expected to do any damage. Could do with getting it done though .. Might be a wee while until it's all done but I'll post when its finished Thanks again all.
  5. Thanks - he gave me encouragement to do it with the engine in place - he also gave me the exact dimensions of the tolerance and setting pins as well as the crank locking key and the tension adjuster tool -so I could get them made up here. Very helpful guy - I might drop him a note anyway.. Thinking about it now - I'm not too concerned - I think I can do it with the engine in place: Take the cam covers off, move (might need to remove and refit) the camshafts until they are in the correct position, lock them up, check the belt is fitted properly - then finish the job (put it all together again. Sounds easy when I put it like that !! We will see!! As I said I have the manual so I will just take my time - with the cam covers off I will see what I did wrong and why it happened. I think it will be next week until I get a chance to try it though - maybe a few hours on Saturday though.
  6. Well I put it off a long time (but not many miles). Had a go at changing cambelts on my V8 - engine in-situ. Definitely do-able but it sure is limited access at the front of the engine - made worse by all the coolant pipes and various tubes and wiring!! I got timing pins made up to exact (lotus) sizes by an engineering firm which saved a few £. It was slow going - lots of time spent getting from under the car -then climbing into the boot (trunk) and lying over the engine - took ages even getting it locked into place. Got the old belts off and new (blue) belts refitted - with lots of scratched, cut and bruised arms and hands - I had to move one or two of the cams a little to align the teeth on the belts - but I believe this is quite normal. Went to turn the engine over by hand a couple of times to recheck the pins but the engine wont turn over more than probably 1/8 of a revolution (45 degrees) before stopping. I checked - nothing external I can see stopping it so I reluctantly wound it back anticlockwise and locked the crank in position again and rechecked the (tolerance) pins would go in. They screwed in but the more I checked (and maybe doubting myself) I am thinking that they didn't go in properly when I changed the belts. I've poked various sized drill bits (4mm and 4.5mm) down and even a bit of thick wire and then tried moving the cams a little by the 18mm nuts on the end to see if I can feel the cams move through the locking holes but I can't. What I'm thinking is that I had the cranks 360 degrees out - on the wrong stroke - and that the pins didn't go into holes on the cams to lock them - but just pressed against the shaft - the did screw in a but but looking again (and again...) at it I'm thinking they should maybe gave gone in further. I did check at the time and was convinced it was OK!! This is despite rotating the crank - testing if the pins went in - didn't think they did so rotating another 360 degrees. So... unless there's a really simple explanation staring me in the face that I'm just not seeing I thing I will need to re-time the cams. So - for the experts here... can I do that without removing the engine. I will if I need to but was hoping to avoid that. Is there anywhere offering a simple guide? I have the workshop manual so I can follow "by the book" if necessary Any other thoughts... Many thanks in avance. Graham
  7. Hi - I haven't a clue to be honest there was no mention of either that I can recall. I just now looked on eBay for "sports cats universal" and this is what came up. Ebay link... I'm not saying these were the ones I fitted but they looked like that. It's worth noting that unfortunately I think I will need to fit proper cats for MOT next year as I only passed this year thanks to a very understanding and helpful (mate) MOT tester. Like a lot of these cars it doesn't get used a lot - about 1K miles a year and so maybe theres other things I could do to get through emmisions test but it was very well warmed up before the test.
  8. yes all was well - not using the car much but I will have a couple of issues to see to over the winter. 1. Cam belts: - I plan to do them myself. Rather than spending £322 on a crank/cam locking and tolerance pin set I have had a set made up by an engineering firm. I plan to do the job with the engine in-situ - no rush although an american guy on Youtube does it in a few hours - I'll take MUCH longer. 2. I need to replace the catalytic convertors. I made up a set myself last year using sports cats (taking your advice Gunter) but they barely scraped through the test this year (thanks to a VERY obliging tester) and I will need to have it fixed properly for the next test in April.
  9. thanks for replies - confirms my view - can't believe the prices for basic bits of metal!! Not too sure if I'd trust the crank positioning to a piece of wood - knowing my luck it would split and I'd end up havonig to re-time the cams as well as replace the timing belts! I'll work something out I'm sure - it's not a job to make a mess of. Graham
  10. I am building up courage to do the belts on my V8 - in situ. I just got a shock when I costed the crank locking tool, the cam locking pins and the camshaft tolerance pins - non standard kit from SJ is £315. Even the crank tool on it's own is £77. They are such basic bits of metal and I feel ripped off if I have to buy them at that cost. My son who works for an engineering company reckons they are 1st year appprentice skill level jobs on a lathe (I reckon I could make them easily myself if had a lathe) so I will see if I can get some made up myself - for free maybe - or at a small cost. Does anyone know (or can you provide) the dimensions I need? I know the important bit of the setting pins is 4.7mm diameter and the tolerance pins are 4.2mm diameter. Do I need the setting pins? I thought they are more for checking the cam timing? I could probably manage with just metal rods of the correct diameter for the cam setting /tolerance pins. What about the crank tool - looking at the manual I might be able to measure the dimensions myself although access looks tight (I havent looked in the car itself yet). Or does this club have tool lending/hire that could help? Thanks
  11. I see what you mean - they are described as double contact whereas the Bosch relays just switch the continuity from 87a to 87. As you sad though (as far as I could see) all the other circuits that the relays serve don't use anything on the 87a terminal so are effectively off until activated - then the circuit switches to the 87 terminal as required. The part of the circuit diagram I uplaoded shows that on the secondary fuel pump relay. Out of the 8 relays in the rear box 6 of them are grey Bosch relays and two were the brown siemens (AMR1088) ones. When I was looking for replacements it seemed to me that these are a very common type - I couldn't find any (except for the ones) I bought that have the twin contacts. If I've missed them somehow and you know where to get them at a good price let me know. My searches found the brown ones used in Landrovers. Car's working though which is the main thing for now - and I've learned a wee bit more...
  12. OK - a little bit of digging showed up what might have been the issue with the relays. while I was looking at the relay in preparation to test them I noticed there was a slight difference in the circuit diagram between the grey Bosch relay and the brown siemens relay. Digging a bit more I see that they are different and I need the brown Seimens type for the fuel pump. The grey Bosch ones keep part of the circuit completed - which I trhink is why the primary fuel pump kept running and the fuel kept being recirculater from the tank - around the fuel rails and back to the tank. Apart from my own ignorance the thing that threw me about the relays is that they all have the same Lotus part number - I spotted that the different relays hasd been mentioned before on the V8 parts cross reference thread which I spotted last night @Günter I've attached some copies from the wiring diagram relating to the fuel pump and injector circuit and from the parts diagram and list. I also checked online on the dereure website and they are still listed as the same part number. you will see that the grey relay has contact 87a connected and 87 unconnected when the relay is "off" whereas the brown Seimens one both 87 and 87a are unconnected when off and both connected when on. Anyway - I hope this makes sense to you and can help in the future. O've found the correct brown relay is also used oin Landrovers and more easily (and cheaply - probably) got. I've not found another equivalent one. As Gunter stated in the cross reference thread - and when I looked through the wiring diagrams it seems that the primary fuel pump and injector relay is the only circuit that needs the brown relay I've not actually tested them on a meter yet but it looks logical to me ands is why the grey bosch didn't work properly - it kept the fuel pump on when not activated but cut the fuel off when activated and the car would only run for a few seconds until the fuel in the fuel rail was used up. It does seem to be a pretty drastic error in the parts list though?
  13. well - good news. Having a think and doing a bit more research I'd come across someone who'd had a problem with a sticking relay. So I swapped the relay with another one and it all worked fine. The fuel pump stopped running when I switched off and the car kept running when I started it. I'd already ordered a couple of new relays when I discovered the faulty one yesterday. I've had the car running for probably an hour, stopped and restared several times - sorted I think... I didn't have any more time today so I will check the relays later to see what the faults are. What I think .. The original one that was in position C (primary fuel pump and injectors) just wasn't working. the one I swapped into position C was from position G (A.C. Compressor) did open the circuit but stayed open ( probably permanently making a circuit) the one I put in today (from position D (ignition) worked fine (I put the one originally from the A.C. slot into the ignition slot) As you might expect the relays have been replaced at some point previously in the car's history and the one that had been in the fuel pump/injector slot was a seimens (as was the one from the ignition slot that is working now). The rest are Bosch. The replacements I have ordered are Bosch too but that's just because I found them first at a decent price. I'll be back on the road in a couple of days as soon as I refit the boot floor. Easy eh ................ Thanks for all the advice guy - hopefully this little tale might help someone else in the future...
  14. I had a bit of time looking at the Lotus this afternoon. looking over the circuit diagrams (I have a set of workshop manuals) based on advice here I strated to track the circuit. Fuse - OK Relay = I was reluctant to take apart so I found one the same (there are lots as it tuurs out) and I swapped the one from the A/C compressor circuit into the fuel pump & injector circuit. Imediately I got an extra bit of whirring and the car started on the key. Sorted!!! - I though - it was the relay all along. I shut it off and restarted several times and it was fine. I was in an enclosed garage so didn't want to run the engine for more than a few seconds anyway. However when I opened a door in the garage for air, started the engine and it ran for 12-13 seconds and cut out. This happened every time (I timed it). Also the whirring sound remained - even with the ignition off. As far as I can tell it is the fuel pump running - circulating (and recirculating) fuel along the fuel lines and back again. I'm thinking that my problem might be the pump not giving enough pressure to keep the car going. I will get a pressure tester (there are lots on eBay) and test it. But - does anyone know if this would give the other symptoms I'm getting - like the pump continuing to run even when the ignition is off. I had to remove the fuel pump fuse to stop it when I left it tonight. I also found that fuse B7, 7.5 amp (ignition controls) was blown. I didn't have a 7.5 so put in a 5 amp for now but I couldn't see any diifference. I'm wondering if the fuel pressure needs to be higher to actually cut off the pump (even with ignition off??) - sounds a bit strange to me. Or could there be a wiring problem elsewhere causing that? I'll do a bit more digging myself - I already found the thread about the fuel pipe as part of the pump splitting and reducing the pressure - that will be one to check anyway) At least I had it running again (12-13 seconds at a time) !!! Graham
  15. Sorry. No progress. I've been distracted by my mini cooper s. Had a burst coolant hose, overheated enough to blow head gasket, replaced head gasket, still leaking coolant into oil, take head to be checked and skimmed to find it is cracked. Replacement head collect Monday. At least it is something I feel I'm making progress on eventually. I can't get any info from running engine as I can't get it to start now. I will just need to follow the various suggestions and work through to find and repair the problem. I might get a chance later today to have another look. I will update as soon as I can. Graham
  16. Thanks Günter I'll have a look over and try what your suggesting. I just need to be logical - fuel pressure might be an issue - would it cause the car just to cut out dead though - I might have expected it to falter and stutter a bit first? When I was out at it earlier today I tried to start it and it felt like it was trying to catch on the first try - but nothing after that. I checked that the fuel was flowing - but not the pressure. I can certainly have a look into how to power up the second pump - although from what I read it runs at start anyway before resting again? I never got round to taking the plenum off - I would need to do that to check power at the injectors anyway. Cheers, Graham
  17. thanks guys I did find today one wire had worn through and separated and another two had worn bare where the went under the cross-rail at the gearbox. I sorted that but no affect on starting - and it hadn't had any noticible affect while it was running. I trid once and gave up - couldn't get it to run and as Barry said I have been using OBDII scanner and software. I think I can run Freescan though - and I might get round to it at some point (can I?)
  18. update: No joy so far.... It was running then stopping. I timed the past coupld of occasions as I was checking for faults in wiring/connectors. It ran for 14 minutes, it wouldn't start again until about 5 minutes later. It started again and just kept running. I gave up and switched it off for the ady after 45 minutes. I had been rummaging around under the car (its up on wheel ramps) and I found a set of wires tyhat looked like the could have touched the cats - where they curve up over the driveshafts. I'd pulled it over a bit and secured it clear with tie wraps - so I wondered if there was something in there. Next day went out thinking it would be OK and I would strip that bit of the wiring harness back and see what the problem was/has been but no... tha car wouldn't start at all.. To rule ignition out I checked and am getting sparks. I pulled a connector off the fuel rail - getting fuel pressure there, so I think that confirms it is an injector systems problem. I haven't tried bridging the connectors at the inertia cut off switch - although the connections look good and it was running the day before. I've removed the boot floor to get better access to everything - and found and cleaned the earth connections from the ECU to the bell housing although the looked good anyway. I've pulled and reconnected the ECU a couple of times - all looks good at the connection - I think I might pull it out anyway. I was going to remove the plenum cover next to check any connections under there - leaving the ECU to last!!! And to cap it all my other car - a wee (BMW) mini cooper S Supercharged sprung a leak in a coolant hose and looks like it just migfht have blown a head gasket. An easy fix compared the the Esprit. Thanks goodness my wife has a normal sensible (reliable) car....
  19. thanks Andy - as you might see from my replies above the pump is whirring as expected. There's also an additional pump on the V8 that from memory is for high speed duty but does fire up at start also as a check. The symptoms are not like I would expect from fuel starvation - it just stops - like the ignition is off - but the earlier codes seem to point to a fuel / injector issue. As you say - it's something affecting all the injectors. Graham thanks both. If other avenues fail then I will give Craig a call thanks Thanks Mike - I will check that.
  20. Thanks for feedback so far; I will have a look under the plenum again - I had it off at the beginning of the year and replaced the coils and fitted new magnecor HT leads. I'll do the other stuff first I think though to save dismantling if I can avoid it. The car was running fine until it cut out! I pressed the switch - couldn't detect any moveemnt in the switch. The car does run until it stops - and just waiting a minute lets it start again. I might try bypassing the switch - it looks do-able from the wiring diagram - am I right? As I've been trawling through various other issues that did occur to me. There are two pumps in the V8 - and I can hear it when I switch the ignition on for mayby 3 or 4 seconds. as above - i do hear the fuel pump - but I guess still a possibility that it's not right? I haven't checked the ECU connection - where is it exactly? it looks like the ECU is on the check list anyway. Thanks Mike The earth strip from the ECU to the bell housing came up in a previous reply (I think from you also) and is an easy check - I saw another issue I that it might be worth an extra/replacement earth strip from the battery. I hapy I can maybe test these out using a jump lead? I thoink I will have more difficulty getting an ECU swap but if can find someone or a company that can check, repair/refurish mine that would be an area to look to? I could certainly give mine a close visuual inspection. As above - certainly something I can look into - I'll try the less intrusive stuff first though Thanks all
  21. sorry - my bad typing (and rushed proof reading) the codes were P0201, P0202, P0203.... through to P0208 (not P0108). So the codes were all Injector circuit malfunction, cylinders 1 to 8 - all cylinders. So I reckon not an injector issue as it appplied to all - most likely part of a circuit or connection that applies to all cylinders/injectors. I've attached screenshot of the OBD app I was using and extract from workshop manual relating to the codes
  22. I'm sure this will be a simple fix (once I know what the issue is)- I hope! Driving the other day - just taking it easy - got about 10 miles and the engine just died on me and wouldn't restart. The engine turned over fine but woldn't fire. After about 5 - 10 minutes I managed to get it to start again but only got another half a mile or so before it died again. This time the engine check light came on. Breakdown guys came - while I was waiting I got it to start again - then it died again after a few minutes, this happened a few times while I was waiting. He didn't see any obvious fault and his diagnostics read the codes - I didn't see exctly what they were but I read them later at home (see below). He cleared the fault codes and suggested that I drive for a bit and he would follow - if it died again I would need to get recovered. We drove a mile maybe and it seemed fine so we agreed I would drive home. I got about a quarter of a mile before it died again so this time got recovered home. I read the codes at home P0201 through to P0108 - Injector circuit malfunction. There were no engine check lights showing though. I could run the engine as before seemed fine - once or twice it actually ran long enough to go through the heat, fan cycle but sometimes cut out after 5 minutes or so. I went over the connections I could see around the top of the engine - I think powering the injectors - cleaned them and reconnected although none of them looked at all bad and then cleared the codes myself. No real difference. I replaced the coils and HT leads earlier this year, new plugs, full service - all oils and fluids. I'm thinking maybe remove the plenum next to check any connections under there? Any ideas? I'm trawling through the manuals and forums. Any ideas that will help me guys? Thanks in advance, Graham
  23. just spotted this. I made the mistake of just removing the sender - instead of the whole plug and overtightened it when refitting. Oh well we live and learn! Graham
  24. I found the part number initially on SJSportscars and then on the deRoure websitre. It's not mentioned in my parts list or the Service manual - and I was surprised to find it when I went to drain the oil. Previous searches for a cross reference didn't give me anything either unbtil I closely examined the (broken) part and found the numpers stamped on it. It arrived and was fitted yesterday allowing me to refill the oil - car running fine now. Graham
  25. Just browsing and wondered why I hadn't contributed before!! Bikes on the road and then raced them. Like some others I had bikes before cars - I'll try and remember them; Suzuki T250 Hustler Yamaha RD350 (that got stolen from outside my work) Suzuki T500 (I "tuned" that and immediately put a hole in a piston!) Suzuki GT750 (kettle) Kawasaki Z650 custom (did a trip to South of France on that one) Suzuki GS1000 Then after years of watching and wanting to race I decided I would and raced the GS1000 in production races - while also using it as my day-to-day transport. It got stolen from outside my work (different work from last theft) - it even still had my racing number plates on it! Bought another GS1000 and continued road and race. (I also did a trip to South of France on that one - in between races) I then tested a Yamaha LC350 - wow- I liked that and px'd the Suzuki for a Yamaha LC350. By then I was in a car and the bike was kept just for racing . I picked up sponsorship from Carrick Motors (now no more) of Edinburgh who were Yamaha main dealers - and raced all through the 1980's. The LC classes were booming with big grids - heats and finals. I raced against Niall McKenzie (never managed to beat him - but did once get a fastest lap against him). Then over the following years I raced Yamaha LC350 Yamaha LC250 Yamah YPVS 350 (powervalve) Yamaha RD500LC V4 Yamaha TZ350 Yamaha TZR250 Yamaha FZR600 Then marrage and children (and age) kicked in I usually raced 2 bikes at each meeting (LC250 and 350) and at one point 3 bikes - thanks to very good sponsorship from carrick motors. I don't think I would ride on the roads now though.... Oh - just rembered - I was a hypocrit when my son wanted a MX bike as a kid - and steered him onto Karts instead (that was good - and expensive fun) and he was quite successful at National Championship level. He's grown up now and just bought himself a Honda 250 2/s MX bike and tells me he is now goin to sell it to buy a newer one (4S) now that he is getting on the pace!!
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