free hit
JOHNDOYLE - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


Basic Account
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral


  • Rank
  • Birthday 05/11/1961

More Info

  • Name
  • Car

Recent Profile Visitors

1,559 profile views
  1. Re fitted the exhaust box today and got it started. Very gingerly checking water, temp, oil etc. Oil problem - hopefully - is due to stupidity of author. Dry sump is so hard to check level so I think I overfilled and my oil leak was as simple an issue as too much and pushing out of the remote tank filler cap. Don't know why I missed that. Anyway, removed a lot of oil and with starting the engine, could now check the level. Had connected the temperature gauge up with wires reversed - worked that out after pulling binnacle apart AGAIN. Lots of smoke but put that down to the oil i had dropped into the cylinders to ease it in after so long. Checked the clutch and gear linkage, turned on my fan over ride and FINALLY drove the car out of the living room. (Had previously smoked the family out) Drove the car into the driveway and let it idle with the over ride off to see if the fans would come on. Lost some knuckles as I watched the temperature climb and chickened out and turned the fans on then the car off. After quite a while the smoke had not abated - I think I have oil dropping onto the exhaust manifold - Problem 1. Got out of the car to find a trail of water - one of the rubber pipes at the front of the engine below feeding to or from the radiator seems to have blown - problem 2. While the engine was running, there was no oil pressure reading at all which also is a little worrying. Can anyone tell me where the gauge pipe connects to the oil system on a dry sump car to send the pressure reading? - problem 3. Second worrying gauge issue was the boost gauge which also remained static. Not that I revved it too hard but I did rev it enough for the turbo to spin so it should have moved. - problem 4. All in all, I am getting closer - actually drove it 40 metres. Let it cool and drove it back into the house. Attachment shows it spreading its' wings. I have plans to relocate the battery - I'm going to put it central rather than in that deep dark corner where it snags the drainer pipe and the tail light wires. I am also going to mount the after market battery cut-off switch on the right hand side panel in front of the oil tank.
  2. Probably due to the fact that I bought a second hand Citroen DS 20 box and fitted it when I previously had a catastrophic bearing failure and had one entire cluster drop down onto the other - no teeth left. Now also suffering from a misreading speedo but have found info on how to re-calibrate it. If that fails, I have been given the name of someone who does it.
  3. Quite correct, the nipple does face upward but apparently is still too horizontal - I was advised to remove it rather to be certain. I suppose one could also park the car on a nose-up incline. Thanks for the observation. On the issue of gearbox filling - perhaps I am being stupid. The bolt on top is nowhere near the rubber plugged access hole so without removing the boot panel, filling it into its level indicator plug hole seemed a better option. Am I wrong, should I rather be removing the panel and filling it from the top?
  4. Hi lostu In order to bleed the clutch, you need to remove the slave cylinder so that you can face the bleed nipple upwards. When you do this, there is no longer the rod and fork to stop the piston from moving outwards, only the circlip which is not strong enough. The G-clamp with a drift of some sort to be narrow enough to fir into the cylinder and secured on the mounting flange stops the piston from pushing the circlip out and, (as in my case) shooting across the room and spraying the rear paint work with brake fluid. I did not have a G-clamp so I drilled two holes through a thick piece of steel (An angle grinder disc release key) the same distance apart as the two mounting bolt holes. I then used two pieces of threaded rod with nuts and washers on each end (a la puller) and used a socket from my spanner socket set in the cylinder. It worked great. This sounds complicated but really isn't. Hope it is helpful John Had some success today. I'm no electrician but could not get my fans to come on. Bought a new relay (not fused like the original) and the fan are working again. I'm a bit worried about whether or not I should add a fuse, and if so, to the switched circuit or the power circuit. Are there any experts who can advise on this? I know that the original fuse worked hard as I had to replace it a few times but I could probably put that down to bad connections. Those Lucas fans are hectic - same as Mini - I think I am going to change mine for the more efficient plastic ones. Has anybody else done this and did it help? Had the flange welded back onto my Stainless steel back exhaust box today - why do they sell you a stainless box (for
  5. Thanks Joolz I still haven't ascertained whether or not it is the oil pump which has failed yet. I will certainly let you know if I find that this is the problem. Best regards John
  6. Wow Richard yes it was my car in Ottery at Abe's Panel Shop. If anyone needs a re-spray, I could not recommend more highly an establishment than this. Abe is a true gentleman and did a better job than I could ever have expected. I was in Retreat the other day having my water header tank rebrazed at Joe's Radiators - If I'd known, I'd have popped in to see you. I got under my car today and, after cutting up most of my T-shirts, cleaned a lot of muck from under the car to try to locate the oil leak. I then put a little more (cheap) oil in the tank and cranked the engine over in the hopes of getting back under and seeing the leak. Before the leak could show itself, petrol started squirting from the exhaust flange going into the rear box. This scared me because of a recent petrol fire in the bay so I decided that discretion was key and removed the rear box. This rear box cost me
  7. Hi Brandt I recently had my rack serviced in Cape Town - nearer to you actually - it cost about R 1000 and works like a bomb. The bearings in mine were both seized and a lot of rust had got in through a broken gaitor. Not a nice job to remove but not the end of the world. Let me know if you need details. John
  8. Being from the same hot climate (Cape Town), I have used it to over ride the otter switch and turn on the fans when the temp. gauge makes me nervous in traffic.
  9. Thanks for the shoulder guys. Two hundred Pounds - aaaargh - I paid
  10. Post Re-spray rebuild after standing for two years. So stupid and paying the price. I knew I should keep the motor going while it stood but got lazy and am paying the price big time. I had leaks in a fuel pipe so had to replace all of the hoses. I opened the carbs and cleaned all of the jets. The gasket kits from Suburban were wrong so I carefully put them back together with the old gaskets. I eventually sorted out and bled the clutch. The helpful man at the clutch shop said that I didn't need a G clamp to hold the piston in. After blowing the piston right past the cir-clip and putting a puddle of brake fluid on the lounge floor to join the petrol - i made a clamp and did it again. I then checked the water header bottle and it looked bad so I took it to Joe's radiators in Retreat where they re-brazed the filler neck, the overflow pipe and the return pipe. They also brazed up three holes in the bottle and soaked it in acid to get rid of the rust and sold me a new cap. On Friday, I took out the plugs and put a little oil in the cylinders and turned the engine over. A spark from the coil ignited the extra petrol still lying around on the engine and I had the whole engine on fire in the living room. Luckily I had put a CO2 extinguisher close by and it had just enough in it to put the fire out before it caused damage. I went and bought another extinguisher immediately. Finally in between fighting with the dash and door wiring, I re-connected everything in the engine bay, put more petrol in, charged the battery and turned the engine over. after a long time it started an ran for about 20 seconds on about four cylinders then stopped. When I got out, there was about four litres of fully synthetic engine oil on the floor - very depressing. I now only hope that it is just a hose or joint that has blown out because I am told that the pumps on the dry sump are not cheap or easy to get. I now look forward to spending some time under the centre of the oiliest part of the engine, trying to fathom out what has burst. Anyone got any guesses as to my possible blow out?
  11. Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated. John
  12. Can anyone help me with this? 1982 Turbo Esprit. Haven't started the engine in a year whilst rebuilding. On turning on the ignition, the fuel pump pumps floods of fuel through the plenum chamber and out through the turbo driven turbine. I have removed the induction tube to the air filter box and am being certain not to provide spark until this is sorted. The manual mentions a 'vent valve and canister 'c' ' for which there appears to be no diagram. Could it be a problem with this vent valve and if so where is it and how could I test it and bring it back to life. If it is something else, any info would be much appreciated.
  • Create New...