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  • Birthday 05/11/1961

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  1. Re fitted the exhaust box today and got it started. Very gingerly checking water, temp, oil etc. Oil problem - hopefully - is due to stupidity of author. Dry sump is so hard to check level so I think I overfilled and my oil leak was as simple an issue as too much and pushing out of the remote tank filler cap. Don't know why I missed that. Anyway, removed a lot of oil and with starting the engine, could now check the level. Had connected the temperature gauge up with wires reversed - worked that out after pulling binnac
  2. Probably due to the fact that I bought a second hand Citroen DS 20 box and fitted it when I previously had a catastrophic bearing failure and had one entire cluster drop down onto the other - no teeth left. Now also suffering from a misreading speedo but have found info on how to re-calibrate it. If that fails, I have been given the name of someone who does it.
  3. Quite correct, the nipple does face upward but apparently is still too horizontal - I was advised to remove it rather to be certain. I suppose one could also park the car on a nose-up incline. Thanks for the observation. On the issue of gearbox filling - perhaps I am being stupid. The bolt on top is nowhere near the rubber plugged access hole so without removing the boot panel, filling it into its level indicator plug hole seemed a better option. Am I wrong, should I rather be removing the panel and filling it from the top?
  4. Hi lostu In order to bleed the clutch, you need to remove the slave cylinder so that you can face the bleed nipple upwards. When you do this, there is no longer the rod and fork to stop the piston from moving outwards, only the circlip which is not strong enough. The G-clamp with a drift of some sort to be narrow enough to fir into the cylinder and secured on the mounting flange stops the piston from pushing the circlip out and, (as in my case) shooting across the room and spraying the rear paint work with brake fluid. I did not have a G-clamp so I drilled two holes through a thick piece
  5. Thanks Joolz I still haven't ascertained whether or not it is the oil pump which has failed yet. I will certainly let you know if I find that this is the problem. Best regards John
  6. Wow Richard yes it was my car in Ottery at Abe's Panel Shop. If anyone needs a re-spray, I could not recommend more highly an establishment than this. Abe is a true gentleman and did a better job than I could ever have expected. I was in Retreat the other day having my water header tank rebrazed at Joe's Radiators - If I'd known, I'd have popped in to see you. I got under my car today and, after cutting up most of my T-shirts, cleaned a lot of muck from under the car to try to locate the oil leak. I then put a little more (cheap) oil in the tank and cranked the engine over in the hopes
  7. Hi Brandt I recently had my rack serviced in Cape Town - nearer to you actually - it cost about R 1000 and works like a bomb. The bearings in mine were both seized and a lot of rust had got in through a broken gaitor. Not a nice job to remove but not the end of the world. Let me know if you need details. John
  8. Being from the same hot climate (Cape Town), I have used it to over ride the otter switch and turn on the fans when the temp. gauge makes me nervous in traffic.
  9. Thanks for the shoulder guys. Two hundred Pounds - aaaargh - I paid
  10. Post Re-spray rebuild after standing for two years. So stupid and paying the price. I knew I should keep the motor going while it stood but got lazy and am paying the price big time. I had leaks in a fuel pipe so had to replace all of the hoses. I opened the carbs and cleaned all of the jets. The gasket kits from Suburban were wrong so I carefully put them back together with the old gaskets. I eventually sorted out and bled the clutch. The helpful man at the clutch shop said that I didn't need a G clamp to hold the piston in. After blowing the piston right past the cir-clip and putt
  11. Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated. John
  12. Can anyone help me with this? 1982 Turbo Esprit. Haven't started the engine in a year whilst rebuilding. On turning on the ignition, the fuel pump pumps floods of fuel through the plenum chamber and out through the turbo driven turbine. I have removed the induction tube to the air filter box and am being certain not to provide spark until this is sorted. The manual mentions a 'vent valve and canister 'c' ' for which there appears to be no diagram. Could it be a problem with this vent valve and if so where is it and how could I test it and bring it back to life. If it is something
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