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TurboSE-SLO

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About TurboSE-SLO

  • Rank
    LO
  • Birthday 31/08/1969

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  • Name
    Borut
  • Car
    LOTUS ESPRIT TURBO SE

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  1. Hi to all after long time! My baby runs without any problem this year I would like to upgrade original, plastics fuel hoses with better, st/st. Can't find anything on the web. Does anybody know where to buy? Thanks in advance! Borut
  2. Hi, have you checked fuel pressure? How about your O2 voltage? RGDS, B
  3. Hi Artie, nice job! We made it from titanium, 3 1/2" pipe from the turbo to the end. She sounds like hell!!! BYE, B
  4. Hi, I would go for a new and larger chargecooler and not repair the old-one. bye, B
  5. Hi, What boost are you running? More than 0,85 bar? When overboosting, how much is it? More than 1 bar? How long is your overboost period? Do you have a Freescan? If yes, send me a file. It's almost impossble to see from the picture if turbo is modified or not. Modified turbos have bigger compressor wheels and usually 360deg. bearrings inside. BYE, B
  6. Hi, I'm suggesting WALBRO 240LPH pump. It's cheap (arr 90GBP) and fits as original, Walbro is well known in SUBARU community. bye, B
  7. Hi, alloy tanks have been fitted in. rgds, B
  8. Hi everybody! My baby got new fuel tanks and new uprated fuel pump. Today was my first 15 km long test drive after winter time (big smile on my face :-) ). Everything is fine, steady boost 1,25bar, MAT below 40 deg.C, she pulls like hell!!! Fuel pump should be strong enough (300LPH), i have fitted racing primary and secondary fuel injectors, so it should be enough fuel. I'm a little bit worried because of knocking. Freescan counted arr. 40 knocks on my first ride. Car is still in learning mode. Is this normal? bye, Borut
  9. There is a lot going on inside the ECU and a lot of factors are being monitored and adjusted simultaneously. The actual procedure when the car first starts is to reduce the IAC slowly down to the lowest possible setting that maintains the idle speed. The lower the setting, the lower the fuel requirements, etc. The ECU parks the IAC at 170 counts (fully open air pass) so the car should not immediately stall when first started. If it does, chances are that the ECU has lost track of where the IAC "really" is and you will have to hold the throttle open slightly to keep from stalling out. The ECU "remembers" the location of the IAC at various conditions and relies on this information to set the valve when things change, like the A/C being turned on. This learning curve is what the procedure does: make sure the ECU knows where the valve should be for idle with A/C and no A/C, etc. If it is properly learned, the car should only momentarily drop rpm when the A/C is turned on, not plummet down to 800rpm or stall out. Once the "ideal" settings are learned, the ECU makes adjustments "constantly" when the car is idling (the IAC will move back and forth a few counts) as the ECU tries to keep a steady rpm. The problem with most of the rough idles is because the GM ECU has a "no load" mode that alternates the injectors so that only 2 are firing on each full revolution at low rpm and no load. This can be quite rough on a 4 cylinder engine causing shakes (you're only firing each other piston). Depending on which EPROM you are using, this mode is entered around 1000rpm. If the IAC position is not correctly learned, the car can drop well below 1000rpm, go into the "no load" mode, and then it will stall when the A/C clutch engages! The actual "desired idle" will change based on the engine load, temperature, fuel, battery voltage, etc. The ECU monitors the rpm and adjusts the IAC in small increments to keep it around the desired value. 28 FreeScan Manual IF YOUR THROTTLE STOP IS WRONG then IAC changes will affect the idle to a greater degree than the ECU expects! The IAC has a dual taper pintle, designed to adjust the air flow in the correct way for the ECU. If the throttle stop is set wrong, the pintle will be in the wrong place and the idle will fluctuate up/down more than it should. The dual taper means that the air bypass amount changes depending on the seating IAC. The ECU also has a "save me" mode that will jack up the IAC counts and desired idle if the car idles VERY badly, such as 200rpm variances over 30 seconds. This is similar to the "limp home" mode and is intended to keep the car running at all costs. If the stop screw is off, or the ECU learns the IAC counts when the IAC was not reset properly, this mode may come into play if you find that your car is dropping well below 900rpm, stumbling, then ramping right up to 1200 or more, this is the cause. In that case, you need to reset the IAC, reset the ECU and let it relearn the IAC settings again. If you're crazy enough to want to see the effects, try disconnecting the IAC while the car is idling, then stop the engine, reconnect the IAC and try restarting the car. The IAC will be completely out of place (sitting around 20-40 counts or so instead of parked at 170) and the car will likely stall out right away. If you restart the car, and hold the throttle open slightly for a few seconds and gently release it, the car will eventually stabilise the idle. What you're seeing is the constant idle correction of the ECU. The effects of this will be fixed right after you drive the car over 20mph. The ECU resets the IAC the first time the car is driven at constant throttle over 20mph. rgds, b
  10. Hi Bibs, My suggestion: electrical chargecooler pump for sure! I tested both, but good electical pump wil provide more flow and constant flow. Freescan is showing lower MAT with electrical pump in my case. Also recovery time after fast run is much better. bye, B
  11. Hi Chats, rod is vy sensitive. One turn or two should be enough. But I'm not sure that your boost problem would be connected to right or wrong rod lenght. It could be, but not likely. Disconnect a connector first, before you start with adjusting and check your boost without ECU support. It must be steady 0,65 bar. rgds, B
  12. Hi Mike, disconnect a connector from boost valve and go for a ride. Max. boost should be 0,65 bar. If not, you have to adjust a rod lenght. Short rod = more boost, long rod = less boost. rgds, B
  13. Hi Artie and Dave, thanks for answers. An IAC has been reseted several times but this behavior is still here. Looking forward, Borut
  14. Hi Andy, thanks for info. Sport 300 have 2 radiators in parallel or in serial wiring? rgds, B
  15. Hi, Has anyone considered about double CC radiator already? Sport 300 has two I think. My idea is to remove AC completely (weight saving) and instead of AC radiator fit second CC radiator. Your comments would be appreciated! Looking forward, Borut
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