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About TurboSE-SLO

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  • Birthday 31/08/1969

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  1. Hi to all after long time! My baby runs without any problem this year I would like to upgrade original, plastics fuel hoses with better, st/st. Can't find anything on the web. Does anybody know where to buy? Thanks in advance! Borut
  2. Hi, have you checked fuel pressure? How about your O2 voltage? RGDS, B
  3. Hi Artie, nice job! We made it from titanium, 3 1/2" pipe from the turbo to the end. She sounds like hell!!! BYE, B
  4. Hi, I would go for a new and larger chargecooler and not repair the old-one. bye, B
  5. Hi, What boost are you running? More than 0,85 bar? When overboosting, how much is it? More than 1 bar? How long is your overboost period? Do you have a Freescan? If yes, send me a file. It's almost impossble to see from the picture if turbo is modified or not. Modified turbos have bigger compressor wheels and usually 360deg. bearrings inside. BYE, B
  6. Hi, I'm suggesting WALBRO 240LPH pump. It's cheap (arr 90GBP) and fits as original, Walbro is well known in SUBARU community. bye, B
  7. Hi, alloy tanks have been fitted in. rgds, B
  8. Hi everybody! My baby got new fuel tanks and new uprated fuel pump. Today was my first 15 km long test drive after winter time (big smile on my face :-) ). Everything is fine, steady boost 1,25bar, MAT below 40 deg.C, she pulls like hell!!! Fuel pump should be strong enough (300LPH), i have fitted racing primary and secondary fuel injectors, so it should be enough fuel. I'm a little bit worried because of knocking. Freescan counted arr. 40 knocks on my first ride. Car is still in learning mode. Is this normal? bye, Borut
  9. There is a lot going on inside the ECU and a lot of factors are being monitored and adjusted simultaneously. The actual procedure when the car first starts is to reduce the IAC slowly down to the lowest possible setting that maintains the idle speed. The lower the setting, the lower the fuel requirements, etc. The ECU parks the IAC at 170 counts (fully open air pass) so the car should not immediately stall when first started. If it does, chances are that the ECU has lost track of where the IAC "really" is and you will have to hold the throttle open slightly to keep from stalling out. Th
  10. Hi Bibs, My suggestion: electrical chargecooler pump for sure! I tested both, but good electical pump wil provide more flow and constant flow. Freescan is showing lower MAT with electrical pump in my case. Also recovery time after fast run is much better. bye, B
  11. Hi Chats, rod is vy sensitive. One turn or two should be enough. But I'm not sure that your boost problem would be connected to right or wrong rod lenght. It could be, but not likely. Disconnect a connector first, before you start with adjusting and check your boost without ECU support. It must be steady 0,65 bar. rgds, B
  12. Hi Mike, disconnect a connector from boost valve and go for a ride. Max. boost should be 0,65 bar. If not, you have to adjust a rod lenght. Short rod = more boost, long rod = less boost. rgds, B
  13. Hi Artie and Dave, thanks for answers. An IAC has been reseted several times but this behavior is still here. Looking forward, Borut
  14. Hi Andy, thanks for info. Sport 300 have 2 radiators in parallel or in serial wiring? rgds, B
  15. Hi, Has anyone considered about double CC radiator already? Sport 300 has two I think. My idea is to remove AC completely (weight saving) and instead of AC radiator fit second CC radiator. Your comments would be appreciated! Looking forward, Borut
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