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drdoom

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  1. Hi again, Lez The rad may indeed be an S2 which, off the top of me head, measures something like 13" H by 25" W overall. The first Esprit had a unique rad which had the appearance of a 4' wide oil cooler, so nearer 7-8" tall at best. The trick for you is to see whichever rad used is properly fitted, as airflow control is entirely important. For trundling about in mild conditions and usage what you have will surely suffice, once things get hot and the traffic bungs up, or once you get to wringing out the car properly in warm weather you will then encounter the limits of heat management. Note that the taller S2 rad was fitted at an angle to accommodate some of its greater height and mounted to a pod shaped for the control of airflow, whereas the under nose area of early cars is configured for the very shallow rad fitted there. The lower edge of the S2 pod reaches roughly to the lower reaches of the S2 airdam (spoiler), as seen in the attached pic. Cheers
  2. Love the Esprit but was treated to demo ride in 410S at Hethel a couple of years ago - what a rocket that was! Boggling performance in every aspect.
  3. I have no experience in working on ABS, though well acquainted with driving cars so equipped. Take care to check fluid specs as they pertain to ABS as there may be further details relevant. Your experience illustrates why so many of us advise that the wise owner remains engaged with detailed maintenance of the cars. They are such a joy to drive and one lucky enough to realize this should feel free to explore the limits without much worry of a sudden component failure. That's the sweet spot in life.
  4. A thought or two on fundamentals, at the risk of stating the obvious. Getting a car settled adequately for taking a ride height measurement will be impossible if the car has been jacked up then lowered while stationary unless steps are taken to mitigate tyre scrub. I have found success in placing sheets of dry newsprint, something like 6 - 10 depending on underlying surface, under the tyres. Still, it's a well damped suspension which does not float about easily so not a sure thing to be settled in situ. Best to take measurements upon driving to a flat, level location in order to target the car's natural state. High point of each wheelarch can be at least a fair datum from which to compare results of adjustments, and the crossmember can be checked though with some effort. Were any spring spacers fitted at the factory for the sake of leveling side to side?
  5. Hi Matt, Don't see why you should not proceed with the 310mm kit, no experience to share but I will going to comparable spec with my S2. Regarding complete temporary failure it's typically boiled brake fluid if the pedal goes to the floor, pad overheat if the pedal remains firm-ish but braking distance is too long. Bigger, better components see to overheat issues nicely. Are you aware that brake fluid must be refreshed throughout the system with adequate spec from time to time? Conventional fluids are inclined to absorb water over time and will thus boil at a lower temperature. In no case should silicone based fluid ever be used, particularly for any car that is driven hard. Remind me though, does your SE have ABS? Cheers
  6. Yes, the washers throughout the window frame mountings are notably thick, IIRC.
  7. Geert states a very good point from which to start as an Esprit will not vividly display when a damper has gone bad. All that design effort putting the masses where optimal, wide track, clever geometry - it can mask a failed damper rather easily.
  8. Sorry, continue to disagree on the positioning of the hubs vis-à-vis track. Just reviewed the Parts Manual, set-up looks like Standard Triumph TR-6 as far as I know with 2 tapered bearings carrying the hub on the stub axle. The felt seal referred to is familiar as I am a former longtime Elan owner, that car using S/T Herald or Spitfire front upright assemblies. Are we to understand that the side cornering loads are translated from wheel/tyre to suspension by way of the felt seal? Also, does the dust shield plate not bolt up to the upright independent of any register with the seal? I submit that the track must be arrived at by way of the position of the 2 bearings on the stub axle, conceivably stopped inward against the felt seal's metal casing ring which, in turn, must be stopped by a shoulder on the upright. What does the shield have to do with any of this? Cheers
  9. Right, too long since hands on the mechanicals for this boy! Now thinking that slightly thinner flange on the vented disc would place the hub a pinch closer to the wishbones.
  10. Not sure how removal of the brake rotor shields could affect the track as the wheels are carried on the hubs which float on bearings separated from all non-rotating bits. Perhaps the greater bulk of caliper was where wheel weights made contact? As to compounds, Wilwood has good information online describing various pad characteristics.
  11. Good point, Tim, I am thinking from the perspective lent through work on my OEM a/c equipped car. So then the heater only cars can block the fresh air flow without going to recirculated?
  12. The recirc/fresh air flap apparatus is out of commission, likely related to why the access hole was taped over. The smaller flap plate is meant to have an integral square section pivot rod along one edge which affords actuation by the vacuum motor on the bracket between it and the longer flap plate controlling flow through the two fresh air inlets. The square section permits the two plates to be clocked 90 degrees apart so that when one is closed the other is open. Looks like the smaller, recirc flap is not the correct item at all, rather it's a simple piece of sheet lacking the pivot axle hence the two screws pinning it closed. FWIW.
  13. Photo attached of the hatch, second lay-up complete, first lay-up rough sanded. Lacking the confidence which comes with experience such as Dave's I've gone with GRP layers for the bulk of it. Didn't think to weigh the hatch before getting to it though, hopeful anyway that it won't come to much as deepest section is ca. 3mm. Now offering up the cant rails and peering further into the rabbit hole that awaits!
  14. You will find all of the Forum postings regarding ride, steering and handling to be helpful, as the basic Esprit platform was retained throughout the history. There were meaningful and quite noticeable alterations to front end geometry and spring rates with the arrival of the Eagle chassis but that's after your car I expect. With all in order you will find a chassis of high capacity, exceedingly well balanced with a most agreeable ride. Don't seek to reinvent a chassis designed by masters of the art, rather take note of specs in terms of what Lotus did. Let us know what you are feeling once you've driven the Esprit for a time, we may then be able to offer further pointers if you wish to zero in on what is exactly to taste. On dampers I've always been inclined to trade off a bit of ride compliance for quicker transient response, happy with Koni's on early Elan and Esprit though they are at best hard to find these days.
  15. What are your impressions of the ride, steering and handling so far?
  16. I'd suggest not to go with body colour. The body proper is a thing of great beauty, the engine bay somewhat less so. My thinking is that visual distinction between the outer and inner body surfaces is a good thing in the case of the engine bay. Up front under bonnet the flowing form of the wheelarches and whatnot wisely is painted to compliment, floor area excepted. Given a tasty silver treatment of the chassis elements perhaps blacking out the surrounding bay confines? FWIW
  17. Roger, ". . ..system by Lotusbits, it's not ideal . . .." Would you care to elaborate on this? Cheers
  18. I'm into this matter up to the elbows, have an S2 in restoration which was factory A/C equipped but will have naturally aspirated dry sump upon rebirth. After long months looking into aftermarket options ( Vintage Air foremost ) I decided, rightly I believe, that retaining the under dash casing and related ductwork would be pragmatic. There is little room to spare in the space where the casing must reside, it takes some finesse offering up the thing for installation. Take a long look at the parts manual pages pertaining to the dash controls, HVAC fan and plenum, the forward firewall cut-outs, compressor mounting brackets/pulleys, etc, etc comparing A/C to non-A/C setups in order to gain a sense of the scope of the effort.
  19. Some simple thoughts to offer on the topic, informed by a successful campaign optimizing the performance of the cooling on a tuned '64 Elan S1. Focus first on whether there are any fundamental flaws in the kit, as currently used. Air in the system? Thermostat and pressure cap operating as they should? Fans are subordinate to the core of it all, cooling should up to task without them because the heat rejection is greatest when power output is greatest. Autocrossing, for example, is a situation where the fans would rightly be expected to be called upon, top speed runs on track not so much though each is a case of high heat rejection. Shrouding is of serious merit when employed to duct air where flow would be most effective. One wants the flow in through the nose aperture to be channeled through the rad, not be able to bypass via leakage around the periphery. Also thought should be to flow outward aft of the rad as there will be no flow inward greater than that which is possible outbound. With a motor in proper tune the rate of heat rejection in slow traffic should not be all that remarkable, shouldn't require massive fans to keep that under control, no?
  20. Bumper is something representative of the Esprit theme, influenced by DOM item and IDGG prototype. Indicators will be Acura Integra ca. 90-91, wider than DOM but not so as to look out of place I do hope!
  21. Photo displaying replacement marine grade ply faired in with epoxy/cloth/Kevlar, cloth layers alternating light and coarse with every other coarse cloth weave clocked 45 degrees to maximize strength and stiffness. Door striker and upper/lower half joint repair well underway, same methods as bulkhead with epoxy/cloth only. Custom front bumper creation project visible on the Workmate.
  22. Thank you both, Richard and Dave. Seems we have managed to promote Dave's business prospects along the way so happy faces all 'round. I humbly concur with the advice to rectify the striker area as it will be suspect in most cases from what was seen on my otherwise fairly well finished S2. I worry that fractures in the area will serve as capillary pathways past the door seal and edge trim for those cars in all but the most dry climates. With enough neglect this may find it's way into the bulkhead ply and rot away. Note the discoloration trace on the ply aligns with the fracture in the door aperture flange. Dampness was prominent in the course of this car's life and what seepage had gone unnoticed was compounded by long storage, obscured if not worsened by the carpet and noise dampening mat. For the sake of others' peace of mind I should suggest that most Esprit will probably have been more kindly treated. Still, the evidence of peril seems clear.
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