
drdoom
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Posts posted by drdoom
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What oil are you running?
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For what it's worth my S1 owning mate has fitted BBS flat-band type wheels in 15" diameter for the front, drop centre 16" for the rear and feels the flat bands may well afford greater caliper clearance than do the conventional 16" rims.
Cheers
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That finisher also present on my S2 from factory, carpet laid on to it for a smoother appearance.
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I can vouch for the 1st generation series of the Philips bulbs seen at link attached. Very intense and strongly coloured light, though requiring some adaptation to mate with the Rover sourced taillamp housing due to the single LED light source.
Cheers
https://www.powerbulbs.com/ca/product/philips-x-tremeultinon-led-gen2-py21w-twin
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Correct, Pete, Sanden provide specific angles by which the fill port may be rotated from datum. I've got a tech manual downloaded in which that info is presented, though not at hand for the next few hours.
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Thought I'd solicit insights on cam profiles for the N/A engines. Anyone have experience with running non-standard cams?
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I'd attempt to insert a stout pry bar or flat screwdriver and work the damper away from the point of conflict.
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Would anyone care to share experiences with alternative cam profiles on the 900 Series engine?
Cheers
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9 hours ago, EXCEL V8 said:
Dave/Thomas - is your front a/c bracket still accessible or is it all back together now? I could do with a couple of measurements 🙂.
Pete
Which measurements are you in need of Pete?
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As I understand this it's a capacitor for the purpose of electrical noise suppression.
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Back in the '80's one local enthusiast had an S1, I believe gel-coat coloured yellow, which he described as having a Group B spec engine, whatever that was. That car was brought over from the UK when he emigrated and was fitted with the mounts which preceded the biscuit type we are better acquainted with.
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Hello Lyn,
I appreciate the insight and am glad to stand corrected on this topic. By the way did your car come fitted with the common biscuit type motor mounts or the early ones carried at the engine end of the steel struts?
Cheers
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You could easily add a bit of spacer under the seat if it is in conflict.
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Arnie Johnson has an impeccable reputation so no worries in regard to his work. Are you familiar with the American community over at https://groups.io/g/TurboEsprit ? There has been much informed discussion on the Bosch EFI system there.
Cheers
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Interesting. Earliest cars in any legacy era Lotus lines have been known to have undocumented pieces, eg- my '64 Elan was fitted with 5/8 diameter A-R bar, yet all written accounts state 11/16 as universal.
Cheers
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Hello Patrick,
It's highly unlikely, if not impossible, those lower links are factory. I''d suspect they may have been a workaround to avoid correcting camber out of spec by the correct means. Go back to OEM.
Cheers
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Prep the surface with de-grease, key it with steel wool, apply thorough final wipe with methyl alcohol to etch and any decent paint will endure.
Cheers
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Question for @pyropolymer: were those BBS E50's standard droplip(?) profile rims or flatband?
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Yeah, the conrods are rather dear but a mechanic mate advises modern OEM parts prices are more withering still. Eg oil pump for recent Hyundai/Kia at approx $1300. Same goes for everything right on through gaskets. Just be glad we have suitable parts available to keep these beauties on the road.
Cheers
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Absolutely no doubt it's best to be a pessimist as owner of a Lotus when it comes to maintenance. That way one may be appropriately (?) optimistic when shredding pavement at the limits of adhesion! 😁
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I'm unimpressed with the rationales behind the Evans coolant. It conducts heat less well than A/F / water mix which, by the way, should have a boiling point in the engine quite sufficient to forestall nucleate boiling. As Wiki advises propylene glycol 50% at 15psi system pressure boils at 265 F., or 129 C. A good mate accompanied me in his S1 on a long road trip down the West coast, tracked the car hard on Sears Point ( Sonoma Raceway these days ) and managed the 100 + degree F. temperatures we drove through in the Napa valley without a bother. This with the OEM, compact S1 rad. I do question some of the enduring criticisms of these cars, wondering whether much of them are just internet echoes.
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Better to have said the first option is far to be preferred.
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The old school stuff, typically greenish-yellow.
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Yes, the West has some bearing on all of this, however we either subscribe to the superiority of our own values system, copious warts and all, or we buy into the totalitarian prospects of Russia, China, Iran, North Korea, and on ad nauseum.
Best case scenario is the Russians get through their heads the bottom line reality of this and dispose of Putin and his enablers as soon as possible. If this takes a prolonged and mutually painful stranglehold from the enlightened world to catalyze then so be it. If Putin, in desperation, moves nukes of any sort into play then it will be down to two choices for the West: submit to a reality wherein any ably equipped tyrant may be expected to impose their will on anyone; alternatively we loudly declare the imminent application of force in kind. Game theory here is that a hard lesson cannot be avoided, no matter how distasteful, miserable and inhumane. In effect the West, in so declaring unequivocally, places in the lap of every Russian a ticking time bomb for which the fuse length is unknown. Terror ensues and the Russians see the better of their options being to rise up en masse against the war criminals. I dearly hope it does not come to that.
Spindle fuel leak
in Fuel System/Carbs
Posted
I've heard many accounts over the years of owners running carbs of this form with tight or solid mountings and none reporting the froth related concerns published. Not a scientifically derived conclusion, but consistently reported anecdotally. There can be be no tolerance of fuel leaks in this application as Esprit in numbers are no longer with us due to catastrophic fire loss. With such significant leakage I'd double back on floats condition and fuel pressure setting, just to be careful. Running DCOE's on my Elan for years over long distance journeys, urban jaunts and track day outings it was my experience that the Thackery's were better than the rubber bits, and that it was best to have things pulled up tighter than the printed dogma, as air leakage arose otherwise. FWIW