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Everything posted by lotus4s

  1. It looks like he's referring to the rust around the end of the ARB itself. The ARB should slide fairly easily in/out of the bush when all is as it should be. It looks like yours is securely rusted in place. Do not just leave it in there and "paint around it"...
  2. lotus4s

    World Cup

    Congrats! Still pulling for your guys...👍
  3. FWIW Barry, On that silicone coolant hose below the ex cam pulley, I've found that the replacements we have here from JAE seem to be a little too long and trimming 6-8 mm off the water pump end allows a little more clearance of the pulley. Not sure if yours are the same there but worth a look...Jim
  4. IMHO, If the leads are old, don't bother wasting time trying to determine the correct resistance, just replace them with a set of quality leads.
  5. This statement is totally false, neither LaPierre or anyone from the NRA has ever said anything even remotely similar to this quote. While this is a terrible, senseless tragedy and will certainly and deservedly result in more heated debate about gun control, it should not be exacerbated by spreading lies and slander against either side of the debate...
  6. That's pretty ingenious... We lost power about an hour ago but just moderate wind and rain so far.
  7. Great! I was a little concerned when I saw your pic and knew you must be right on the coast.
  8. Ian, Where are you in Fla? We'll be riding out the storm too here in Orlando...Good luck!
  9. I'm not 100% sure but on the older 912 engines, weren't the camshafts and carriers the same parts for intake and exhaust?
  10. Good job Alan, glad it worked out for you!
  11. Is that an indention into the bore wall? In your pic it almost looks like it's proud of the surface of the wall as if a stray piece of metal was mashed between the follower and bore...
  12. At the top bolt of the clutch cover (bell housing) buried under the wiring/hoses, see the green arrow
  13. Alan, Looks like you may have dodged a big bullet. Hopefully the threads on the shaft are not knackered. Definitely replace the nut and be sure to use Loctite 648 on the threads and stake it on the flat once it's torqued. Torque spec on the Secondary shaft nut should be 250 Nm (185 lb. ft). Try to flush out the swarf as best you can. It might be worth filling once or twice with some cheap gear oil. I would be a little nervous about trusting the epoxy patch for any length of time, try to get the housing professionally repaired or replace it as was suggested... Good luck!
  14. I may very well have jumped the gun in my previous post and didn't pay enough attention to your first two posts. I thought you couldn't get into second and then it cleared up later. (what can I say, it was late ;-)). Your symptoms could still be related to a damaged second gear but does sound more like a bad synchro as others have said. As Barry said above, if you double clutch and it doesn't crunch, then it's probably the synchro. @jacques, I've had to replace the 2nd gear on two different S4s's that I've owned and one in a V8 for a friend. Have also read about others in the various forums having to do the same. In my case, the symptoms were not being able to shift into second gear after a hard crunch, but after a period of time, all appeared normal again. Then, a few months later, losing 2nd gear permanently and having to open the gearbox and finding what was in the pics posted above. (those were my pics). In my opinion, the teeth don't all break off at once. It's a few each time it happens until finally they are all gone.
  15. I'll tell you what I think has happened from personal experience and having seen many others with the same problem. As the pics above show, you have broken one or more likely, a few of the dog teeth. The broken bits were probably jammed in the gear assembly causing difficulty shifting until they eventually worked their way out of the assembly and are now laying in the bottom of the gearbox sump. The 2nd gear is now weaker due to the missing teeth and at some point in the future, the rest of the teeth will get sheared off and you will lose 2nd gear completely. Probably not an eminent repair at the moment but will require a gearbox out and disassembly in your future. It may be next week or a year from now but it will happen...
  16. Red arrow is the accumulator and green arrow is the pressure switch located alongside the accumulator and under the pump motor. Once you remove the accumulator you will be able to clearly see the switch.
  17. FWIW, I've found it much easier to fit the PAS pump along with all the ancillary belts on the lump before dropping it in.
  18. Welcome aboard and good luck with your search...
  19. Geert, Do you know if your car was ever involved in any kind of shunt? I had the exact same failure on my first 95 S4s not long after I acquired it in 2003. I was aware that the first owner had been in some kind of fairly minor traffic incident which involved replacing the right rear hub carrier. I assumed at the time that my bolt failure was probably due to suffering some damage during that incident but was not replaced during the initial repair...
  20. Since each coil pack fires both of its' wires at the same time it doesn't matter as long as you have the correct pair of wires on the coil, but technically yes, you are correct...
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