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lotus4s

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Everything posted by lotus4s

  1. Personally, I think your problem is the accumulator. It's purpose is to aid in the power assist and when failing can cause the brakes to feel "wooden". I've replaced several using the recommended (non Lotus) replacements and never had an issue with any of them. I agree with Richard that replacing the pressure switch would be a last resort before going to a modified system and would definitely try the cleaning procedure for the switch first. You could have other problems such as plugged fluid lines but most of your symptoms point to the accumulator. I am a little puzzled why you don't have any brake or abs lights on yet. Do the lights come on when you turn on the ignition? A proper flush and bleeding will do wonders with a new accumulator...
  2. Yes, any reputable ac shop should be able to handle it. It works just like any other ac system except that the condenser is a little further from the compressor due to the mid engine design.
  3. What is a head gew row? You guys still downing the pints? Looked like fun!
  4. If the pedal stop was correct in the first place then no adjustment should be needed. You should check it though...
  5. As long as it's a top quality bearing, that's not one you want to skimp on...
  6. Wholeheartedly agree My first son was 27 years ago and my second 15. Was in the delivery room for both and was without a doubt the best experiences of my life...
  7. Is it encased in a foam block? Does it stop running after a few seconds?
  8. Nice job persevering to get it done....
  9. I like the chrome look, very unique and fits the car. Would be nice to see a full side view. Kudos on having the nerve to make that plunge...
  10. They've got to be running out of ways for the FBI and Hardy to screw things up.... "The Americans" is a much better series IMHO...
  11. I had the same thing on an S4 once. I ended up putting a couple of tack welds on it...
  12. John, It sounds like your pressure switch is working correctly and the accumulator is low. I'd replace that first and see if it clears up your problems. I don't know if the ebay link you posted is the correct part or not but the part you need is a GM part 25528382. RockAuto.com shows it for $139. A Jaguar part # JLM1907 will also work. Jim
  13. John, You don't have to bleed the system when you replace the switch or accumulator. Just depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal up to 40 times (or until the pedal gets hard) before you start. You'll only lose a few drops of fluid when you remove the parts. That being said, a proper bleed when you're done can't hurt if it hasn't been flushed and bled recently.... Good luck, Jim
  14. I've removed tanks from several 94-95 cars and all had rust on the tanks, some more severe than others. None of those cars had any seal problems with the quarter windows and were 100% intact. I don't doubt that when the window seal fails, water can get in but that's not the only entry point or even the main one IMHO. Below is a pic of the fuel tank bay and you can clearly see where the water has been running down as evidenced by the rust marks at the bracket that holds the plywood deck over the tanks. The second pic shows what is directly over that area which is the fuel filler door area which has a couple of unsealed holes through the body where the hinge goes through. There was also evidence of water dripping from the side intake port comes through the body to the airbox and then to the air filter as Gunter mentioned.
  15. If you haven't done the job before, I would highly recommend removing the gearbox. It will make the job tons easier and much less likely that you don't have to do it again. Proper alignment of the seal and clutch is important...
  16. Mike, FWIW, the earlier manuals may not reference it but the later Service Notes specifically call for dry fitting the liners to verify nip and then re-installing the liners with sealant and torquing the head down "within 4 hours to ensure that the liners are seated correctly before the adhesive cures". Because there were different types of liner sealants spec'd over the years this step would be more critical with the use of an anaerobic sealant which hardens versus a Hylomar type product that never fully hardens. Cheers, Jim
  17. Not sure what your point is there Mike but the head needs to be torqued (for 4 hours) to seat the liners properly then the head is removed and nip is confirmed...
  18. I believe MBP means "main bearing panel" and should be the part of the block the dipstick tube is fixed to. I've heard others use that term for the "main bearing housing" before. . Should be easy enough to confirm with the measurement given... Either that or it was a typo..
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