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  1. Well I've decided to bite the bullet and have bought a set from PNM. They are sitting in my kitchen waiting for Xmas as I have to have something exciting to open on the day! Socks and aftershave don't really do it for me. Sad life isn't it? I'll be fitting them soon after that and will report back when I've had a chance to try them. Richard
  2. Thanks for all the replies folks! Richard
  3. Hi all, The headlights on my '88 Esprit Turbo are getting very rough as I had water leaking into them. Still useable but it's only a matter of time and straight replacements are not available any more (unless you know different?). Has anyone fitted the replacement LED headlight kit from PNM? If you have what are your thoughts, good, bad or indifferent? They are about £360 so that's a lot of money compared to standard lighting. Richard
  4. Thanks Andy, The module has been rebuilt so I'm fairly sure it's not a soldering problem. The other points you mention seem to be ok as well. As I said the lights go out as you crank the engine over as they should but then come on again. I've no idea at this point if the crank voltage should stay high when the engine is running. If it should then the fault is a wiring one. If not then it's still the module in some way. Richard
  5. Hi all, I've had the problem where the warning light module stops working and all the lights stay on during driving. I took the module to a local electronics specialist who changed the components and checked it worked. He reported that it was doing what it was supposed to but, of course, being a Lotus it's made no difference at all! I've checked the power coming from the crank to pin 3 which is what is supposed to activate the module and turn the lights off. It shows 12V while actually cranking and the lights go out momentarily but as soon as the engine starts it returns to 0V (or as good as) and the lights come back on. Now the question is, should the crank pin remain at 12V and the problem is there or is the module not staying 'switched'? Without a "good" one to compare it to I've no idea where the problem is. Can anyone help? All the best and stay safe, Richard
  6. Thanks Chris, Although I've plenty of experience with body panels and paint I'm not a mechanic so stripping the door down is a bit out of my area. I'm always happy to have a go at most things but the specialist warned me that it can be a pig if bolts etc. are seized. Sounds like you managed it without too much drama so I think I'll reserve a weekend and have go at at least one! By the way did you have to take the doors off or do it with them in situ? Richard
  7. Hi all, 88 Turbo - I'm going to have to replace the black metal door frame (that goes around the side window) sometime soon. The original one has rusted badly and, despite many repairs over the years (I am a body work and paint repairer), the rust has almost eaten right through. I have a pair of new (OEM) frames ready to go in but would appreciate any advice from someone who has already tackled this. I've been warned to expect a lot of trouble getting the new one to fit but what do I do about the quarter light windows. Assuming I can get them out unbroken what is the best thing to use to stick them back into the new frame? Any suggestions of how to tackle the job (both the glass and the frame) would be appreciated. Richard
  8. Hi Dunc, Just seen your posts about your SE. I've just changed the wheels on my non SE Turbo which for some reason had 16" SE rear wheels. I wonder if you would like the SE wheels as spares as I have no use for them but don't want to throw them away as I know they are very rare now. They do need reconditioning (blasting and powder coating / painting) but come with two hardly used tyres. Don't want money for them but you would need to cover the postage costs if you are interested. Richard
  9. Your wish is my command... This is the knob I'm after and yes, it does seem to be bonded to the shaft like the V8 one! RIchard
  10. Just to finish off this thread... I have bought and fitted the Vredstein Sportrac tyres and have been really pleased with them. I can't feel any difference in normal driving (not a track day person). I fitted four new wheels which were cheaper than restoring my old ones. I paint cars for a living so thought I'd experiment with white wheels instead of the normal silver (the rear wheels were only available in pearlescent white so I had to paint them anyway). I know it's not original but I really like it. Richard P.S. If anyone can use some 16" rear wheels and tyres (barely worn) from an Esprit SE let me know. They need stripping and powder coating but they are yours for the cost of collection. I don't want to throw them away if I can help it.
  11. Hi all, The lettering on the top of the gear knob of my 88 Turbo X180 has mostly worn off and I'm looking to replace it. If you know of anyone who might have one please let me know or if you can tell me what else used it that would be good. I was told it was off a Renault but can't find any references on Google. Not wanting to use a third party knob by the way. Thanks, Richard
  12. Ok - no replies to my original post about restoring the seats and headlining. It really is proving difficult to find someone local to do this job. So, let's look further away. Can anyone suggest a car trimmer anywhere in the country who can do this job? Someone must have had their interior replaced/repaired??? Richard
  13. Hi all, The drivers seat and headlining on my Esprit is in a very bad state and I am looking for someone (professionally) to replace it all. I've tried several local places (North Yorks) who claim to do this sort of thing but either get no reply despite chasing many times (don't they want my money?) or the price is ridiculously high (I don't have that much money!). Can anyone suggest a car trimmer in the Yorkshire area who would be able to do the job? I don't need one of these top end guys who do show cars for Ferrari and Bentleys etc. who are way out of my price range just an old style trimmer. Any suggestions gratefully received. Richard As you can see the seat will need totally recovering...
  14. Thank you everyone for the replies. It's such a shame the original tyres are not available any more but at least we can keep our cars on the road one way or another. At the moment I'm probably going to go for the Vredstein Sportrac 225/60 R15. I looked at the Pirelli 600's but they are over twice the price with no great difference in performance (or so it seems). I'm not doing track days etc or high milages don't need to worry about wear etc. and can always change to Pirellis or something else in the future if I'm not happy. Richard
  15. Hi all, haven't been on here for a good few years but have just decided to replace the wheels on my '88 Esprit Turbo (Stevens). The ones I have are shot after having been reconditioned several times. For some reason I have 16" SE wheels on the back (it's not an SE and I bought it with them on) but as these don't seem to be available any more I'm going back to the standard 15" wheels with 235/60 R15 tyres. Obviously the original Goodyear NCT tyres are not available any more and the only recommendations I have found are for replacements that are also no longer available. So, I'd be interested to know what people are using and recommending these days? I've seen the suggestion of going to 225/60 R15's. Is this the best option and what make and model is best? Just for info I have been using Falken tyres and have been very happy with them. All advice gratefully received. Richard
  16. On a similar subject to this, I am having a problem with the temperature gauge that seems connected to an earthing problem. If the car is standing or stuck in traffic, the temperature naturally goes up. However, the gauge can be showing as 100 plus (sometimes approaching the 110 mark) but the fans never kick in. If I switch off the engine and turn just the power back on the gauge shows as about 90 which is what I would expect (note that there is nothing wrong with the fans as far as I know). I'm confident that the car is NOT running that hot and it's the gauge before anyone tells me that I can be damaging the engine at that temperature. I've also noticed that the temperature gauge is affected by the headlights. If I turn them on the temperature jumps by anything up to 10 degrees. Turn them off and down it goes again. Revving the engine does not affect it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I should start on the earthing system. I would think it's more likely that the strap to the engine would be affected by corrosion rather than ones in the front which are not directly in the damp (or are they). A pointer to the best way to find and get to the engine strap would be appreciated. It's an '88 Turbo by the way. Richard
  17. Well if it's in the same place as a late 80's Esprit then there is a wire loop under the dash on the right hand side of the steering wheel (in front of your right knee!). It can be tricky to find but it should be there. Just push it forwards (it's hinged at the top) and this releases the front bonnet. Richard
  18. Hi Gordon, I use Imagicon from It does what it says and is free. Regards, Richard
  19. I'm sure I'm not alone in being a bit confused by Paul's post's here. You are being told that you can expect up to mid 20's MPG but you are happy with 16 MPG!!!! I have a '88 Turbo and can get up to 26 MPG on a run if I take it easy (ok, a lot less if I push it). If I was getting 16 MPG I would be taking it to the garage. Paul, would you mind explaining why you are not concerned about such a relatively large difference in fuel use. If you think of it in "normal" car terms it's like a car you expect to do 50 MPG giving you 30 MPG. Rich
  20. I've been going to Donnington just about every year for the past 15 years and, as many have said, have noticed that it had become rather stuck in a rut and "samey" but there was always something I hadn't seen before so I didn't mind too much. I didn't attend Malvern this year mainly because of the extra distance. I run my own business so time is important especially at the weekend. I could just about justify the 2 hours travel to Donnington but it would have been about 3 1/2 plus hours to Malvern and that killed it for me. I doubt I'll be able to attend in the future if the show stays at Malvern so I would support the idea of moving the show each year if it was possible. And there lies the problem. My brother-in-law has organised several of the Morgan Club shows and the work involved is enormous. Shifting the show about would create no end of problems and, as the CL has already said they had a hard job finding Malvern, I cannot see it happening. It's a shame but I know for everyone like me put off by the distance, there are plenty that are now a lot closer. Win some, lose some. Richard
  21. Hi Mark, That was my reason to get it done professionally. It's now 3 years plus since it was done and the car still looks like new. I've had the car for nearly 15 years and don't plan on selling so £2000 wasn't a lot if spread over time. I would definitely think twice if it was a "toy" that I was going to get rid of when something newer came along. I think that if I had, say, an old Elan or Europa or something from that period I wouldn't think twice about rollering it. The new paint would be better than the original however the Esprit has that clear lacquer finish which you are never going to recreate with a roller so it would only be an option if price was the deciding factor (which it might be next time it needs new paint). RIchard
  22. You don't use household paint for this. It's not right for it at all. Rustolium is a paint designed to be rollered and is normally used for coating industrial machinery, bridges, railings etc. It is hardwearing, flexible (so no cracking if the panels move or get a knock) and, although not much use to us, is anti-rust. It goes on directly to the surface without primer and covers any old paint without reacting. That means that you can just sand the existing paint down lightly to provide a key and start rolling. Hang on, I'm starting to sound like an advert - I'm nothing to do with the paint manufacturers - I'm just very impressed with it. Have a look at the internet links. They show a number of nice cars that have been painted this way (mostly American as they seem to have been doing this longer than us). You really would have to look hard to tell the difference and it only cost them $50 (or so they claim). I had my Esprit professionally sprayed a few years ago and it cost me about £2000. As the cars get older and less valuable it takes some thinking about before you spend that sort of money (and more) on a car worth, realistically, only 5-6 thousand. The next time it needs doing, not for a long time I hope, I will certainly look into rollering it. Richard
  23. I know you guys will probably laugh in a derisory manner at this but, for the older car, if you don't want a concourse finish, you can roller your vehicle rather than spray it. As well as my Esprit I also have a VW camper and have been rollering it using this method. I've shown some of the rollered panels it to a paint guy and he went very quiet then said he couldn't believe I'd got such a good finish without spraying. It's really easy, there's no overspray, hardly any masking, no toxic fumes annoying the neighbours, you can do it whenever you have an hour spare (and in the street) and, if you get any damage ,like a scratch, you just get the paint out again and give it a few new coats. You can also drive your car 2 hours after painting. Ok. it's not perfect, you still have to do the normal preparation that you would with spraying but, with care and some flatting back you can get just as good a finish. The pro's would do it better I'm sure but, so far, I've only spent about £100 to do a complete recolour of my campervan. Try getting a quote like that from a spray shop. The biggest disadvantage is that, once you've used the recommended paint you cannot use normal car paint again without a complete strip back to bare metal (or fibreglass in our case). I wouldn't suggest using it on a car you intend showing or for concourse but, if you use your car everyday there is no cheaper way to give your bodywork a new lease of life. Take a look at this website which explains how to do it. A search on google for "roller painting your car" will also show you lots of info. I was skeptical at first but am now a convert! All the best, however you do it! Richard
  24. I just thought I would confirm the use of a Land Rover slave cylinder on the '88 Esprit Turbo. I've just fitted one to mine and it works perfectly. The part number is 266694G (that's the Land Rover number). It's from a LR Series II (or IIa) vehicle. Make sure you get the Series II not III as the later one is different and will not fit. The only difference between the original Lotus part and the Land Rover one was that the thread on the connector between the clutch pipe and the cylinder was smaller on the new part but this was easily solved as I just swapped the existing connector with a male/mail connector (used for connecting brake pipes) from my local parts shop. This might not be applicable in all cases as it will depend on what's on the end of your clutch hose. Richard
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