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  1. General advice for most cars is probably just as relevant: 1) Make sure the car is fully warmed up especially the engine oil before using anything other than the bare minimum throttle required. 2) Don't use full throttle if you can help it. 3) Don't labour the engine or make it struggle in too lower gear 4) Before 400 miles keep the throttle and revs under control. After 400 miles start using a bit more and then after 600 miles don't be afraid to venture up the rev range (with point 1 in mind). As the engine has VVT-i you'll want to get the engine up that high in order to make sure the performance cam's get some running in time. As per the above you should be able to use full throttle but don't just slam the pedal down but slowly press it as the rpm's build up. 5) Avoid steady state driving - sitting at a constant speed is terrible for running in as you want the engine and drivetrain see as many different conditions as possible. If you must do a long motorway journey then try to vary speed and gear and don't use the cruise control at all.
  2. I don't have any problems wearing wiley x glasses without a crash helmet. Can get chilly though and the occasional stone chip is a nightmare. Doubtful on the roof front though. The side panel joins are not water tight so you'll always get some leaks. I did have a look at some aircraft bubble screens and they did look pretty cool. Plan was to mount the hinge to the roll bar. The main problem is you'd need to mount a wiper in the roof and there's no easy way to secure the front to stop it ripping off at high speed.but not had chance to look further. Personally the best thing to look at would be to find a firm that do soft tops and get a custom fabric tonnaeu cover that goes over the pax seat and fastens to the front (I'd replace the bolts used by the aeroscreen to sonethin you could fix the covet to. You won't be able to cover yourself (unless you want to fit something like a canoe spray deck!)
  3. 6 inches is asking alot but you never know - might be a fair amount. Should be nothing wrong with the child in the front seat. IIRC you only have to disable the airbag for rear facing seats. Does the evora have multi mode airbags? Some cars adjust the inflation speed based on the weight of the passenger occupant with a much lower inflation speed for lighter/child passengers. Have to say though, if you have the belts fitted correctly and all straped in properly then there shouldn't be any real need for a passenger airbag.
  4. ads_green

    7. Turkey

    If they had been on different teams then it would be 100% vettel's fault. Webber held his line but left enough room for vettel's faster straight line speed to overtake safely. However Webber knew the there's no way vettel could make the corner from where he was without braking a lot sooner then webber and thus surrendering the position. So up to this point it was all fine. At that kind of speed a tiny amount of steering input would be needed to cause that movemet and I think vettel though he was more clear of webber and possibly there was more room so it was 50% in the clear and 50% intimidation to weeber to force more room for the corner. Where it goes a little more complex is that if Webber knew that vettel had the faster car then he shouldn't have defended the position so strongly and provided a little more room to vettel. In this case I would say that the onus is on both drivers to ensure there was enough room to safely race. If hamilton hadn't been breathing down their necks the whole race closely followed by Button then I think it would have been a little easier and less pressure. This was the first race all year that the red bulls couldn't pull away from another team and I think they were quite frankly shocked to be under attack without ever getting some clear air. So overall more vettels fault but both drivers had their part to play in this from a team perspective.
  5. My first S2 was laser blue - nice colour
  6. I'm 99% sure the engine bay was designed with the supercharger in mind - theres a huge gap there so I would expect this solution to be offered by lotus soon.
  7. I think getting the number for an exclusive day would be difficult and as Bibs says potentially financially risky. What about a pre-arranged arrive and drive day? Buckmore do quite a few on different days but if you fancy something a bit different from a karts that go "chugga chugga" and prefer "WHHAaaaaaa" then what about a club100 race at bayford? Or open class race in august? 4 Saturday 28th August Buckmore Park 12:00 click here 5 Sunday 12th September Buckmore Park 12:00 click here Probably alot easier getting 2-3 teams together - A three hour race can be done in groups of 2-4 so pretty flexible.
  8. Don't even think about it unless very very desparate. They can give some good even fair market value offers... However you have to take your car to them and then they inspect it. *any* excuse is used to knock off hundreds - dirty car mats, not brand new tyres, any stone chips (even though you'd expect some on a high mileage car) even windscreen wipers worn. Lucky to get anywhere near what was offered on the original quote and they are banking on waving the money in your face after you've made the trip to them (even though you don't actually get paid for three days).
  9. I like the oil cooler shields - where you get the bits? (or how much to fabricate another pair? )
  10. Wasn't it originally designed for the Far East market then that project was canned so it was repurposed to be the Europa as it was basically finished? I didn't have a problem with it and the styling is always in the eye of the beholder but I agree it wasn't sure what it was trying to be. As for the 211 I'm pretty sure thats coming to an end now too.
  11. I agree - very easy to get the panels off once you've found the hidden screws. Also agree on the hand for the front clam - you *can* get the side panels off without removing the front fully but you do need a helping hand to support the front clam so that it clears the front of the side panel (it overlaps the front clam a fair bit) I was looking at this too. The front splitter seems fairly secure without the front clam so the temptation to add a hinge here to make it pivot is quite tempting. Either that or some quarter turn fasteners but there are quite a few captive nuts bonded into the chassis and body panels.
  12. Sure, will do tomorrow although I've only got the l/h side clam off. Interesting as unlike the elise, all the electrical harnesses go through the L/H sill. If anybody wants to run a cable from the engine bay to the front it's a very easy route to take.
  13. All out safe n sound - loosening the front clam works fine although might as well have removed it as only the front splitter bolts are left in place!
  14. Definately need a booster seat based on that pic. - Seat belt too uch on the neck and importantly the lap belt is over the stomache not the pelvis. You'd be surprised how little incident it would take to cause serious internal and spinal injuries. Then you need to be able to see a pic with the drivers seat in position
  15. Why don't you market it yourself? 99 quid gets you a "for sale" board printed with a virtual phone number and listing on rightmove. As for solicitors, I think you're being a little harsh. There's a little bit too it than just web searches and it's fixed fee - if you have leashold or some wacky covenants then these can and do take time. Whilst a solicitor is doing this they can't do other things so the fee is also based on the opportunity cost of other work which is generally alot more profitable. Then you also need to factor in the insurance costs of screwing it up so 500-600 quid isn't bad. If you want to, you can go online and get it for half that but I prefer having a place I can go to and shout at people shold I feel the need.
  16. AFAIK It's not fabricated to the existing roll bar but constructed as a complete unit. Be difficult/impossible to fit side intrusion bars to the fia roll cage and still be able to get in! Might be better off looking at side nets/webbing instead.
  17. The revving is probably due to emmissions control - most modern cars will idle slightly higher when the car is rolling than when still. All cars I have/had in the last decade will idle about 200-400 rpm above idle if anything faster than a walking pace. I'd jack the car up then put a box of A4 under each of the wheels. That way the car is suspended by the wheels and should give you a better indication of how the car will sit when on the road.
  18. if your 4 year old is over 15kgs (which most should be) then you could go for a booster seat. Definately worth asking about removing the vertical rear seat cushion to give a precious few extra inches.
  19. It's not the neck you should be most worried about - for a small child in an adult seat the lap belt will tend to ride up over the pelvis to the stomache area causing serious internal and spinal injuries in relatively slow speed accidents. this is why booster seats help by raising the body up and latching the lap belt in place.
  20. In the UK the sadev + fitting/integration kit from Lotus is 23k euros. Buying the gearbox for 15k euros and getting the rest of the kit from Lotus would seem to be a cheaper option. I guess the problem you also have is that you're the first (AFAIK) so will have to endure the R&D for it. I think the Toyota engine is fine and can take 300-400 bhp ok. The gearbox is the major weak link for anything over 270ish. I did hear rumours that lotus were looking at other options but nothing yet.
  21. Have to agree - money no object I would install the sadev unit in a heartbeat. The only downsides is the rebuild frequency but some people seem to find the C60/C64 gearbox almost a consumable item these days (esp when running 300bhp+)
  22. Did this car ever get finished ok? Would love to know how it turned out in the end. I'd consider this if my gearbox went 'pop'
  23. Thanks - that's just the info I was after. Shame about the front having to cone off but hey- still easier than a normal elise. The two plastic screws were the ones causing me problems - no mention of them anywhere!
  24. Does anybody have any advice removing the exterior side body panel? I've followed the service notes but I suspect there is more to it. Specifically I've removed: - 3 bolts (manual say 2!) holding the body to the rear panel. - 4 bolts from under the sill near the undertray - 4 bolts from the inside top edge (where the aero screen connects) - 1 upward bolt from within the engine bay near the battery cut off - 4 bolts holding the front A panel/side repeater in place - 1 upward bolt inside the cabin (manual says 2 here but I can't find the other?) - 2 bolts from the front of the rear wheel arch. Can you remove the panel on it's own or do you need to take more off (like the front clam?) The panel feels like it's moving and I think it's ready - any knack to removing the panel? (does it slide out?) Thanks! Ads
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