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ads_green

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  1. Just had a play - its quite easy (would be "very" easy if it wasn't for the mounting of the battery cutoff). 2 wiring harness clips - just unlcip and remove. 2 screws for the battery cutoff socket. 4 screws for the ecu (the bolts are captive and you can see then behind the pax seat) 10 mins max.
  2. FFS - Heritage should know better that a tracker isn't feasible on this car esp. when parked on a driveway. I don't like them much and this hasn't helped. Do you have full no claims bonus? If not I would consider carefully and give them a call to confirm exactly what your policy does and doesn't inlcude a my old policy with them did not accrue any no claims bonus (future classic policy). Also check the small print on the trackday insurance - whilst I recall unlimited trackdays the excess isn't as clear cut as
  3. Not had this problem but the centre console is dead easy to lift (only 2-3 screws) and have a proper look.
  4. I was gonna say that too - the rear wheel does kinda look in conact. I'd be surprised if you could lift the rear wheel that much with first hitting a rather lump bump.
  5. just had a dig about in the engine bay - just trying to work out which would be the best coolant line to tap. Need to get the right one as otherwise get weird number depending on the thermostat opening. My gut feel is the large main outlet pipe - it's accessible and relatively short length. It's alos very possible to fit a sealf sealing adapter (something like http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...=exc&cc=gbp). although I've no direct experience of these so may go with a traditional "Tee" instead (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...p;pcode=GLOHA25) The advantage of this location is that it's basically next to the engine's own coolant temp sensor so should get consistent results. To be on the safe side I'm going to get a spare coolant pipe and work on that and keep the original :-)
  6. unfortunately not compatible with the stack unit. stack have something similar for canbus interface but the wheel doesn't support this either. anyway in the grand scheme getting the rpm is probably the easiest one to do.
  7. Yeah - gave up with the ECU interface. At the end of the day needed a fair bit of info. The only way I think it could have been done is using a "canverter" which converts the Can bus data into 1 or more +5/+12v puls signals. However this only works (if possible) for rpm and mph not a linear analogue signal like coolant temp.
  8. Been a while but not been idle. In fact I think have everything sorted and will prob order soon. Here's my plan thus far. Oil pressure and temp - additional oil filter sandwich plate. The guys over on lotus talk say a second plate works fine with no issues. This makes it quite easy to fit and apparently the filter can be removed without draining the oil. coolant temp - undecided as yet. Can "tee" the engine coolant temp sensor on the engine head but this makes for a heavy sensors that's prone to failure with high vibration. The other option is to place an inline adapter into the radiator feeds. Am going to try to find a place engine side of the thermostat to make sure get engine coolant temps not ones that don't really mean much. fuel pressure - will leave for now but will probably get an inline adpater fitted when I change the fuel tank. engine rpm - got a inductive pickup that fits over one of the coil packs ecu control wires. No cutting just clips and screws into place for a 12v pulsed signal. wheel speed - get a sensor with the unit but needs it's own bracket fabricated. One option I am looking at is the toyota transmission speed sensor. the socket is there on the gearbox just filled with a plug. Apparently the sensor should drop in and generate 4 pulses per rev which is perfect. The elise R taps the amplified ABS signal from the ABS control box to the ecu. Although this should be fine (but would require some soldering with resistors to boost the signal) I really would prefer not to mess with the ABS electronics. Am hoping to have a spare fuse socket linked to the switched circuit in the fuse boxes and run a wire from there.
  9. Good greif - no contest. I've driven all elise/exige variants on the road and the only thing that comes close is the 340r and then the s1 exige. however in the 211 it's completely different. You find alot of people grabbing camera phones for example. Also when appearing in somebodies rear mirror you do find they tend to jump out of the way more quickly. Of course you get you chavs in saxos wanting to race from the lights but that happens regardless. Driving in stop start traffic through town is fun - I had a crowd stalking me for the best part of 1/4 mile
  10. Going to be fun fitting the tracker. 2-11 is pretty short on wiring space as it has none of the extra harnesses for radio and other gubbings. Also the battery is *very* small and holds quite a limited charge. This is fine as you can isolate the battery for storage using the external key however this will also trip the tracker. Either it'll run out of power and shut down or it'll think it's being nicked and send an alert. I've never seen 1k capped excess for on track before - whos the insurance with? The other policy (4 free and 10% excess) sounds very much like CCI. If so I can't recommend them enough.
  11. Dunno about the toyota's but the K series S2 111s 's had a flap that opened depending on rpm and throttle position. But it was still quite a way down in the exhaust so didn't make a huge difference. The only bonus is that it was vacum operated so all you needed to do was unplug the connecting hose and hey presto is was on all the time.
  12. At least its not a mk1 exige - the roof was bonded in place and the car had high sills. flexible or angled allen keys only way.
  13. ah sorry - hadn't noticed the portugal bit. but still... if getting a track only car might as well get RHD and if money to spare the SVA kit. Then when you're finished tracking it in Portugal you could still sell it in the UK I reckon fairly easily.
  14. count me in too. I'd probably drive there and back as only 1.5 hours away.
  15. Got all excited then - thought it was some kind of bi modal sound exhaust like on my VXR8. Press a button and it moves a valve in the exhasut to bypass part of the sound supression chamber. the result is 98db quiet but at a flick it goes to 116db with substantial popping and banging.
  16. I've had three new Lotus's over the years and not one was set up accurately out of the box. Not a big deal but something I've gotten used to.
  17. I'm sure the factory can sort somthing out. They did for the S2 190 and the 211 is a far bigger success. I know they already have pre-sales days for people wanting to buy a 211 and you get the money back if you buy one.
  18. Whilst I can see what you're getting at I don't agree that he shouldn't get one just because he's wanting to minimise any depreciation hit. It also sounds quite elitist - along the lines of "if you need to ask the price you can't afford it". To me it's a sensible question - there are people who will buy the NA 211 but far more will buy (and want to buy) the supercharged version so will be easier to sell and lose less value (IMO of course). Likewise - the SVA kit can't be retrofitted so again to me it's a critical option to have unless you are trailering the car everywhere and a dedicated track/race car driver. If you want to keep the most value the SVA kit doesn't add much weight and give you access to a much broader market.
  19. For the UK - supercharger and SVA kit. the track pack is a very close third. Big brake kit - wouldn't bother unless its it something you want. wont make any difference to resale value.
  20. The 2009 dash isn't anything special - it's just black background. Under the skin though the car (ecu and dash) use a slightly different Can-Bus protocol thus a 2009 dash needs a 2009 ecu to work together.
  21. try this http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/expe...enance/newpads/
  22. It's one of those "it depends" the main factor is the compound choice rather than the tyre design. Track based tyres (like the yoko 48's for example) are designed to last a lot longer than pure slicks so run a harder compound. This makes the tyres more durable at the expense of ultimate grip. It also makes them less sensitive to heat cycles and aging but these do take their toll just a bit slower. Slicks are designed to operate at higher temperatures and a much softer compound so the effects of heat cycles are more noticable. I wouldn't say one cycle would kill a slick - in most cases a lightly used slick can be better than a brand new one as the heat cycle and scrubbing removes some of the left overs of manufacturing the tyre. Again it depends on the compound - you'd probably want to scrub/heat cycle a hard slick more than you would a super soft.
  23. Not driven a KTM but the Ariel is just awful. Can't even go in a straight line without fishtailing - it just has no directional stability. The wheel base feels far too short for the power and the engine is near as dammit rear not mid mounted. The brakes are unrefined and worse than the standard units on the original elise. The downforce on the 211 is handy but isn't a huge amount. Certainly not enough to make 30feet under braking. It's more likely to be the excellent brake setup and balance. The ABS unit is very slick and is better than some I've played with in more exotic machinery. Also key is weight and tyres - tyre overall friction may be higher with more weight but it has a low co-efficient of friction and this diminishes with weight. For example, double the weight won't give you double the friction force the tyre can generate. This is why a lighter car can generally outbrake a heavier one.
  24. I had an LSD on my old S2 Sport 190. It does help masses in case of poor traction - rain for example. The classic case on the road was pulling out of T-Junction. The LSD gave that extra edge. However on track it does make the car a little more undesteerer in some corners so horses for courses. Need to be careful - if the traction control is engaging you may not always spin the inside wheel and it's possible you may just be putting to much power down to hard to quick. LSD won't help that The loud clunks *can* (but not always) be normal. Should hear the one in my VXR8 - it's just the plates disengaging. You can solve this using LSD adjuster oil which allows you to tune the engagement and disengagement of the LSD somewhat. From all accounts it's very effective. The GT4 may have one as the extra HP may make it more of a requirement. Personally I would see if you could try one first as it's alot of hassle for something you may not like.
  25. The only thing you can do is to check the mounting of the seat rails. There's quite a few holes in the base of the chassis to choose from and sometimes they aren't in the right ones (bit of a longshot though). the other optinon is to check the seat and see if there are any alternative mounting points to pick. To be honest though it's not a new problem and has been around ever since the S1 got M/sport seats.
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