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G4RTHV8

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About G4RTHV8

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    L

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  • Name
    GARTH
  • Car
    ESPRIT V8 1996
  1. Hi Guys, I am trying to remove the barrel from my steering lock so that I can replace it with a new one. I can see from the new steering lock that there is a small hole in the lock body through which one should be able to push a probe which should release the spring loaded retaining lobe/mortise, however despite my numerous attempts at trying this I have had no success. Because of the break off fixing bolts I would rather avoid removing the existing body if I don’t have to. So if anyone has any tips on how to depress the lobe I would be most grateful for the help. As always my thanks in advance.
  2. Hi Guys, I make a point of replacing the mild steel fittings on my 96 V8 with stainless steel whenever I carry out work in an affected area. Like mild steel, stainless steel comes in varying strength grades, I have found that if you use a dedicated supplier and advise them of the intended use, they will usually recommend the appropriate grade of stainless steel. For nuts bolts and screws I use Orbital Fasteners; for hydraulic fittings I use Hopespares and Pirtek (note the latter will make up just about anything you could want, however you may have to supply the component parts). Once fitted you will never have to struggle with rust-fused threads, snapped studs or heating with a blow torch to get something undone
  3. As usual Gunter your right, there are three small areas where there is obvious oxidisation due to lengthy atmospheric exposure. So a word to the wise; if you have your passenger side head off at the moment. Take the time to clean it up and look for hairline cracks or other imperfections as it could save you a much bigger job. Regards,
  4. Hi Julian, I hope the PDFs were of use. Get stuck in mate!!!
  5. HI Julian, As you are aware I'm about to do my third cam belt change (with the engine in) and you're right it is strait forward though be sure to check and re-check the cam and crank positions before cranking the engine over by hand (with the spark plugs out as this will massively reduce compression resistance). In my humble opinion, once you've got the old belts off, you should give the tensioners etc. a thorough inspection make sure everything is rolling freely and properly aligned (with no play) and if they are in fine fettle then feel free to re-use them. As yet I have not had to replace either of the tensioners, though I have had to replace one of the intermediate shaft cam drive pulleys (during my first belt change). There are others on this forum with far greater knowledge than me, so it might be prudent to wait a while and go with the popular consensus. I always find Gunter to be a font of wisdom on such matters and have never regretted taking his advice. All the best. Ps. I tried to attach a PDF with the torque settings and images but it wont upload
  6. Hi Alex, I've always got my valves etc fro Steve at S J Sportscars whom I have found to be cost effective and very efficient. All the best.
  7. Hi Gunter, Besides the fracture on the casting there are no other visible signs of damage, which is what makes the whole issue so puzzling for me. Regards
  8. Hi Julian, With regard to the drivers side cam belt scenario; I have asked myself the same question repeatedly, particularly as I had the timing belts changed out of choice and not necessity. Always wanting to think the best of people, maybe as both belts looked so good, it was a genuine mistake and the driver's side belt was inadvertently re-fitted, which is part of the reason I've always marked them with the date and mileage. Though on reflection without the benefit of a U V pen those marks would have been of no use to a 3rd party. However since then I've done two belt changes (soon to be three, I guess I'm still a little paranoid) always with the engine in, always checked and re-checked the tensioners, and on one occasion I did replace one of the intermediate (idler) shaft cam drive pulleys. The good news is that there are only minor abrasions on two of the pistons and I only have to replace four of the valves. to be on the safe side I may well replace the valve guides too. Thank you all for your support. Regards, Garth
  9. Hi Gunter, When I got the car at 28,000 miles I checked both belts over and they looked really good so I wrote the date and mileage on both with an ultra violet pen. As a precaution at 30,000 miles I decided to have them changed by a “Lotus Specialist” based in Berkshire, a few days after which the driver’s side belt let go. When I took off what was left of the damaged belt and checked the other side with my UV torch I found that only the passenger side belt had been changed. I should have been twice shy, as when I previously had the clutch done by the same “specialist” the exhaust came apart within 30 miles of the drive home and I had to reassemble it on the roadside ; so I’ve been doing everything including the belts myself ever since (now at 72,000 miles). The bolt was tightened to 20Nm +/- as I am careful to follow all of the torque and tensioning instructions (including the updates) in the service notes and even go so far as to re-check the tensioning on the belts at 20, 50 and 100 miles after fitting (a few bent valves will make you sensitive to such an issue). Regards
  10. Hi Colin, The bearing is fine and running freely, when I cranked it over by hand to check the timing it seemed ok. After reading Travis’s reply yesterday I thought I would carry out a more in depth inspection and as I removed the passenger side belt cover the casting came apart. This is why I am so curious as to the cause, at least if the bearing was seized it would make some kind of sense? Logic would suggest that there was either axial movement or continuous load in the location of the fracture. I will remove the head tomorrow and inspect the damage then get it welded up in the week whilst I’m waiting for parts. Regards,
  11. Hi Guys, Well I’ve re checked the timing and the news is not good. The casting which secures the passenger side cam belt tensioner to the head has broken off (see PDF). So the passenger side head is coming off (it was the driver’s side last time out and I had to replace half the valves). This time I will have a go at removing the head with the engine installed. Has anyone ever heard of this happening before and more importantly why? The fix is strait forward enough but I would still like to understand the problem. BRKN CASTING 2.pdf Regards
  12. Hi Guys, Thanks for all your replies, I still get the fuel pump priming at key position one and the car turns over fine on the battery but won’t fire up. Timings fine, fuel pressures fine, I’ve got a good spark from all eight leads, and all the plugs are fine. When I removed the fuses B3 and B4 (primary fuel pump and injectors and secondary fuel pump) and flicked it over on the key it started and ran for a few seconds, which leads me to believe it’s flooding due to a worn primary injector (particularly as I have had a smell of fuel recently). I only changed the cam belts a few weeks ago but I will do a second check on the timing tomorrow and report back. I’ve been there before with the shredded timing belt and when the belt let go the engine stopped and would no longer crank over. The one thing I have not yet done is inspect each chamber with my borescope I will do that tomorrow also. Keep the help and advice coming TTFN.
  13. Hi Guys, So I set out this morning at about 6:30 AM on my usual once weekly trip to Derby (about 113 miles) each way and the car was growling along very satisfyingly. About half way into my journey, the car starts to run very slightly less smoothly than normal so I move over to the left hand lane and have a listen whilst driving. About another mile up the motorway and the car coughs and splutters and them comes to a gentle halt?? I was able to coast into the hard shoulder get out and check the vital signs. No loss of oil, water or fuel, no steam or smoke and the all the fuses seem to be intact. After the inspection I jump back into the car and turn the key it turns over and vaguely sparks but it just won’t fire up. My first thought is one or more of the relays have gone, my second thought is the HT circuit has a fault, my third thought is timing has thrown out. Anyway there was nothing I could do but call the recovery service and wait. Just prior to the recovery vehicle arriving I flick the key and the car almost starts and then it dawned on me…Fuel!! I think the damn thing might be flooding? When I get back I will check the timing, check for a spark and make sure that the fuels getting through, however, if anybody out there has had a similar problem and resolved it, or an idea as to the route cause, please let me know. Many thanks
  14. Thanks Oogie (Peter), I will check that out tomorrow. I have also noticed that the leaf flap (the sprung stainless steel closer which sits inside the fuel filler neck) on the driver’s side seems to have lost its spring and no longer fully closes after the filler nozzle has been withdrawn. I will attempt to deal with that tomorrow also. TTFN
  15. Hi Guys, You may recall my post from late 2012 entitled WHAT’S THAT SMELL, It turned out that I had holes in both fuel tanks and thanks to the forum and some great advice I got both sorted. I now have a new issue; when the car is idling and stationary everything is rosy. Also when I am at speeds above 50MPH all is well. However at low speeds I am getting a really strong smell of fuel in the cabin and I just can’t work out what the cause is. I’m hoping that somebody out there in V8 world will have an answer or at least point me in the right direction. I have already checked the tanks and there still fine. As always my thanks in advance.
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