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Everything posted by CarlC

  1. Just a note here, on my S4 I tried the small breather filter on the catch can out port and also just directly on the breather pipe - both ways still caused the sump to pressurise. Having said that Dermot and I believe (Kato - LEW) ran the mocal catch can and Im not aware of them having any probelms with pressurisation. So the pressure release cap and the large port diameter seem to be the only alternative to the bean can idea. Dont know if its car specific but there is a fair bit of sh1t comes back down that breathe pipe and back into the inlet track. All that oil mist build up in the C/C and other parts of the in take cant be a good thing.
  2. Could the loss of coolant not be down to air in the C/C system. This would also result in a less than effiecnt C/C and causing it to get hot. If your certain there are no leaks, could it be taking a while to clear the air from the C/C system or am I miss reading your post? It was facinating to go back the the C/C refill process on my car after switching to a new rad and S300 setup. Im on the Electric pump so I dont need the engine running to run the pump. What was most interesting was that once I thought the C/C had been fully flushed through the standard process off: (Hose pipe to fill, then Coolant draw from a header tank), I reconneted the system and could still hear intermittent churning of the electric pump indicating air bubbles. This was despite flushing for about an hour. I think this in part occurs when reconneting the pipes to the charge cooler. So, what I did was leaving all the pipes connected, take the C/C top refill nut off. Stick some transparent hose into it with a small header thank if possible. Otherwise just put a longer hose on running upwards. I tied the hose to the open boot lid. Switch on the ignition to run the C/C electric pump. Do this for about about 10 seconds and wait for about 6 seconds. Low and behold, bloody big air bubbles make there way up the transparent pipe and the C/C draws in a bit more coolant. Facinating to watch. What appears to happen is that leaving the pump running churns up the air into tiny bubbles and disapates it in the water. Running the pump for five or ten seconds at a time and then cutting the power is enough to push some water round and allows the air bubbles to collect in the pump then travel up from the pump (mines located low down next to the gearbox) and out through the C/C open port. This method also means that the large air bubble collects the smaller ones further back up the pipe system between the pump and the C/C. The key problem with the C/C re-fill is that the inlet and outlet ports on the C/C are to close to the level of the top up cap and they are all the highest point in the car. By setting the hight of the refill well above the inlet/outlet ports it ensures that bubbles dont get re-circulated. The amount of air that came out of the system was staggering. If your on the standard impellor its probably a bit different as you dont need a head of water in the pump to get it working properly. Not sure if that helps you any ?
  3. Hi Robert, Thanks for the group invite. I'll jump in the other threads about attending. Lookk forward to our first meet. Cheers,
  4. Slightly different view to many, having read all the posts on both threads. All suppliers supporting our car's do deserve some level of appreciation and understanding, even though they are trying to make money from us. I am sure Marus could go after a much larger market than ours for parts sales, if he so wished, meaning one business supporting our cars and there are few enough of these already. I dont know the back ground to Bibs other comments (eg clutch testing and rating) and if there are other underlying issues we are not privi to. It does not come across well for either side and I'm not sure if the monderators would have allowed these comments from other people. I'm not saying Bibs is wrong but its exception to see this type of thread on here. Having said that, I do think the situation could have been resolved amicabiley. The impellor advert should have been pulled while the issue was investigated. The advert should be altered with a disclaimer for coolant. Marcus should be a paid member on the forum given the cost/benefit he gets. The situation was to some degree un-forseen and is very unfortunate but we shouldn't discourage people from developing improved products If a ful coolant compatable impellor would have been made avaiable - This should have been offered at a sizable discount As this doesnt appear to be the case it could be argued that some level of compensation should be made available or Marcus buys a bulk load of electric charge coolers and sells those at a discounted price to those who have purchased the new type impellor. Either way, as a forum we should be understanding, unless we have been intentionally mis-sold and as a business Marus should be looking at way to mitigate the frustration this situation has clear caused.
  5. Hi All, One of the jobs I did before getting my car back a few weeks back was to check the plugs and clean them up as they have very few miles on them. However, there was a heavy black carbon build up right around the plug. Having cleaned them up and getting the car back on the road with a new clutch the car's performance was awesome. However the last few times I've been out in the car its performance has been notably slower and and the kick in the pants you get just isnt there like it was. I've checked the chargecooler each time and its temperate is consistently cool/cold to the touch even at the end of the run. So Im gonna pull the plugs again this weekend and check the carbon build up. Im fairly sure there will be heavy deposits. So what is the best way to address this issue ? - could my O2 sensor not be functioning properly causing the car to overfuel?
  6. Im running the SJ Super sports and the exhaust note is (er, was) excellent. However, like any hole in the exhaust or manifold it sounds very different and un-refined - like a horrible blowing noise rather than a nice exhaust note. It is very evident, so I think you can be fairly sure that you dont have a problem. Im not sure there is anyway to tell you have a problem with the manifold until it actually goes and has a hole in it. I'll post up some video/audio tonight.
  7. Hi All, Just when you think you've got the car sorted something else comes along out of the blue. After getting my car back on the road after major work on the front end, I got the clutch replaced and the car has been running beautifully, for about two weeks. I came to start it one morning a week ago and it sounded like an old tractor. A quick inspection underneath revealed the joint between the de-cat and exhaust back box was blowing but the sound appeared to be coming from much further back. Having resealed the de-cat/exhaust joint the sound is still coming from the exhaust manifold area. Running my hand around quickly the area on first ignition I cannot feel or see and blowing or cracks but it is very well sheilded around the area. What is strange is that after a few minutes of driving the sound completely goes away as if the heat expansion on the manifold has sealed up the hole. What do you think the chances are of the manifold being ok and the gap actually being open between the joint of engine block and the manifold? Or am I dreaming and I should face the likely prospect that my manifold has also finally cracked ? I'll record some video/Audio footage tonight and post it up.
  8. Jon, They look superb. First time I've seen sills and really liked them enough to consider buying them. I think the mirror finish looks great in the pic's. Is it just to much though in the flesh ? I also prefer just the ESPRIT lettering rather than haveing the lines either side of the text like alot of the sill have. I look forward to them becoming available. I think, Ill get them on my Birthday list for August. Great work! Oh and I also like them full length too.
  9. Hi Jon, As part of your research, did you ever try one of the upgrade chips? with one of those adapater boards, its now a painless 5 minute process. I doubt there are many people on here who tried an chip upgraded and would ever go back to stock. The improvement are just to wide ranging and not just in top end performance but in low end drivability. Also your point about the solonid is true if your driving using the throttle in an 0%-100% driving style. The power is there if you need it and you push for it. Even living in the North West, the only chance to do any un-interruppted spirited driving is early Sunday morning, any other time your lucky to manage a couple of corners before getting held up. I agree that making improvement in all the non-ECU areas such as weight, CC, Brakes, tyres etc is important. However, it is impossible to ignore or discount the chips as it plays such a fundemental role in the cars behaviour. Lotus clearly new this as they themselves continued to delivery improved revisions of their chips through the production life of the car.
  10. The upgrade chips are a huge improvement over the stock setup. However, it is really important to ensure your car is running properly and that the charge cooler is fully functional. As even with #4 and #5 chips if the charge cooler isnt working properly the cars performance is severaly impaired.
  11. The boost gauge transducer is located just in front of the ECU under the right hand quarter panel/ fuel tank cover, accessed via the engine bay.
  12. The engine is in limp home (safe) mode. I had this when my memcal/chip wasnt connecting properly. In this state for me Freescan wouldnt read anything from the ECU, I guess becuase the memcal chip wasn't actually working because of a bad connection. You get the same effect obviously if you remove the memcal from the ECU. Or if you've seated the chip the wrong way around, the notch should be to the outside of the memcal.
  13. After what has felt like an age, the Memcal adapter arrived from John at WC Eng. Fitted the chip to the adapter board, attached the Memcal to the adapter, plugged it back into my origonal ECU and.... It fired up first time with no ECU errors reported !!! Phew! So it was simply the bad connection between the chip holder on the Memcal and the chip. To look at it, the connection looked perfect but as with all things electronic it only takes a dry joint or poor contact to stop it all working. Big thanks as always to Dermot and SuperDave for there assistance and input into helping get to the bottom of this issues, not to mention the guys on the forum who responded with ideas and suggestions. A potentially very costly issue to investigate and resolve in the end only cost me $30 for the adapater and a few more beers on the tab for Dave and Dermot. If you've got a chip or thinking of getting a chip for your 4pot, the memcal adapter is essential. With memcal's nolonger easily available and the need to at times switch chips, the adapter board removes any need for de-soldering the origonal or resoldering the new chip or chip holder and removes the chance of damadging the Memcal.
  14. Yep, SJ Super Sports on my car and I cant fault it. Totally different note to stock. Mine is fitted with Decat from PNM (about
  15. This was a bloody awful job to do. I did manage to get this job done with a large bench vice but it took lots of effort and a few attempts to make sure the bush seated properly. I did it the same as has been suggested with carefully sized sockets to press it in. The forces involved to press the bush in were huge. However, shortly after completing this job I was down at PNM engineering and happend to spot in his work shop a large press and loads of press cones used for inserting the bushes. What took me hours and hours of sweat and tears inserting the bushes would have taken a matter of minutes with the right tools. I can assure you, I wont be replacing the rear bushes myself.
  16. The idle on my esprit has always been lumpy but does settle down once its warmed up as described. I havent checked your Freescan Log but basically from what I've read over the years it seems to be a common issue. However, I've been looking into replacing the stock primary injector with modern versions and one of the benefits reported after this change appears to be a significant improvement in the cars idle. I see that R&B have matched Injectors listed for our car for about
  17. Brilliant Picture Chris ! Reminds me why I've always loved Esprits and never had a thing for Porsche.
  18. Thanks for all the input guys. Basically the chip and mem-cal were sent away and tested. It came back that the chip was fine but the problem occured when the chip was inserted into the chip holderand into the mem-cal. It is believed that there is a bad or dry joint between the chip hold and the mem-cal. Looking at the state of the connections in the mem-cal I could see this would make sense. So I was basically organising to get the chip holder neatly soldered to the mem-cal. Then by chance noticed the updated Chip upgrade notes on Lew written up by Russell Bosier using the WC Engineering Chip holder! - My thanks to Russell for taking the time to do this. The chip holder by-passes the connection on the mem-cal and instead takes the data from the chip holder on the adapter board. Perfect! So rather than letting loose with a soldering iron and a very delicate and rare electrical item I have ordered the adapter board which will heopfully get me back on the road very very soon! Really big thank you to Dermot for the assistance and sending the replacement ECU so promptly to help me out with this problem, and also SuperDave for being ready in the wings to assist if things went really wrong! I'll update the thread once I've got the adapter board installed and hoepfully my car running again! Thanks all.
  19. The CC refill and bleed is a pain. I did mine from empty this weekend with the double rad S300 style setup at the front. With the Electric pump only the ignition needs to be on rather than the engine. I tried following the LEW guide for the process but i find it gets a bit muddled in the middle and I dont think Kato was using an electric pump for that guide. As has been stated its critical that the electric pump starts with a head of water with no air or it just doesnt seem to work. I've managed to get the system were there was no noise coming from the pump caused by air bubbles having the water re-circulating therough a bucket after about fifteen minutes. But trying to keep air out when reconnecting the pipe to the CC resulted in air bubles in the system that dont seem to want to come out of the top of the CC like you'd expect. I just hope that the last of the air will filter out over time once I get the car running agin.
  20. I had the same problem with mine. Fins looked in great condition but they were no longer attached and rotating with the centre shaft. Electric pump has been installed ever since!
  21. The chassis rails adjacent to the turbo and manifold, one running horizontally and one running and about thirty degrees, I have covered with highly polished aluminum thin sheet that has a mirror finish. I took the old dirty crinkle type off the car then made a simple template from that. Took about ten minutes. Bought the ali sheet mirror finish from oh dear... B&Q for about
  22. Hi john, I see you car still has the origonal Lotus toolkit... Sledge Hammer, several large buckets and a swiss army knife.
  23. Hi Dave, Thanks for your reply. I sort of pelased to report that what you describe is exactly what the car is doing. So that is of some comfort if its just the chip thats gone duff. However, I have tried my stock chip and that exhibits the same situation. I've had some further assistance and I've sent of my chips and memcal to be tested. Fingers crossed its just the chips as I dont fancy trying to track down a spare memcal...
  24. Hi Jon, I find it odd that more people with catch can's havent reported the same problems we found. I know Dermot and Kato had both fitted the catch cans with Air breath caps (as detailed on the LEW guide) but Im not aware of them reporting any issues. I am shocked that the Air breath cap is able to release enough pressure not to blow the dip stick. One thing I found to watch out for was if the dip stick had lifted out from its sealed position. Its obviously only happens under heavy engine load, that the crank case pressure gets high enough to properly blow the dip stick and launch oil every where as it didnt happen all the time while I had the catch can fitted and my can was always fitted with a breather filter on the second port.
  25. Great question Jon, I found my breather filter clogged just the same as you describe and becuase of its location, pointng down and out through the bak of the engine bay I just took the filter off. After doing a little reading up on it, I came to the same conclusion and I've left the crank case breather pip open ended. Given there is the Green oil air seperator at the other end of the pipe with a metal gauze filter I was pretty confident the vacuum issue would be a problem. As we discussed about 2 years ago, when we were looking into installing catch cans - we found that the pressure under load coming down the crank case breather was substantial and is clearly one of the reasons why such a large diameter pipe is attached. My catch can had a large'ish diameter filter on the catch can but this was still causing pressuration of the sump enough to blow the dip stick out and oil to be blown out through the engine vents and over the back of the car. Be interesting to see what the other views are on this.
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