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Everything posted by CarlC

  1. Replacement ECU arrived on Friday, so I got it on the car with the existing memcal, but the Fans come on after about 5-10 seconds and stay on. Swaped back to my ECU and this does exactly the same. Tried the ECU without the Memcal car still does exactly the same things, Fans on after about 5-10 seconds, car will start but runs rough. However, I could not get any error codes from the ECU. The service notes state that the ECU should flash a fault code if it cant read the chip/memcal but I dont get any CEL response from shorting the A/B pin or from Freescan. Checked my plugs and they had a heavy deposit of carbon on, so Ill get these cleaned up while I try and source or test my memcal/chip combination as it appears the ECU may actually be ok.
  2. There should be anything there, the pipe just sticks out through the bottom of the boot floor about an inch or two. Once you've corrected this just make sure the top hat seals to the body work or this will leak down the outside of the drainage ducts and into the boot space. On the S4 they are only riveted on and have a tendancy to fail and leak.
  3. Great find, thats an excellent article and well worth a read.
  4. Thanks for the tips guys. Un-usually, I've actually been no wear near the engine during this round of restoration but the whole front of the car has been off. I've been back to check the power from the battery and to the ECU and that seemed fine. I've checked with stock chip and both chips exhibit the same result. I've tested every contact through the chip holder to the memcal and even chip holder to ecu contact pin with good connections right through. To be fair the service notes are pretty good on the diag side of things and unfortunatley it all points to a knacked ECU. Thanks for the offer Dave, I did recall an early conversation about ECU's with you, So I'll give you a quick shout tomorrow and get that bar tab ready again!
  5. Just happened to be browsing Ramspott and Brandt and spotted a new set of 4 injectors for the 4pots for about
  6. I found that to ensure the right level of coolant was in the car and prevented the need from constant topping you should fill the coolant header tank then also put coolant in the expansion tank. IIRC I half filled this as well. It sounds like you've just topped up to much coolant that has been pushed out to the expansion tank - which has then been drawn back into the cooling system once it cooled.
  7. Yea Thanks Jon, I was just about to say that... I'm with Jon, electric cc pump all the way.
  8. I'll probably get shot down for this but I was really interested to read Marcus' comment above of; "It does not make any difference if the pump is pumping more or less volume/time !" One of the arguements for switching to the electric pump was that it was more effiecent becuase it was not tied to engine RPM and maintained a higher flow rate becuase it was always pumping a consistent greater volume rather than the existing setup. I'm not saying Marcus' is wrong but given there have been plenty of discussion on the forum that faster/bigger volume was better, I am interested to now see the opposite view being put forward and to see if anyone could support an arguement either way to confirm. If bigger faster electric pump was actually better? I understand that increasing the CC or CC Rad would give an improvement but does improving the pump improve the system on its own ?
  9. I ran an empty Cat with Stock exhaust for a while - Still the usual crap sound Then upgrade to SJ S/S Sports Exhaust with Empty Cat - Very nice sounding exhaust. Then upgraded to a proper de/cat with SJ S/S Sports Exhaust - much louder but still the same overall sound. Personally, I preferred the empty Cat and Sports Exhaust rather than the de-cat and Sports Exhaust. The noise level difference with the hallow cat was quite surprising. Hallow out your cat if its on its way out - even if you cant feel it - it will be helping the free flow of your exhaust.
  10. After all this time and work putting my car back together I've fallen at the final hurdle.... After four evening's working with the ECU to try and get it working, I'm stuck with the conclusion that it is duff. Here is what is now happening. First time switch the ignition on - No CEL showing. Leave the ignition on for a minute or two and the CEL comes on. Try the ignition, engine turns overs may just about starts but dies quickly. CEL remains on at all times. Ingition off and turn back on and the CEL lights immeditely. But same result as above. Try Freescan or the A/B contact short on the ALDL and the CEL does not display code 12 or respond to Freescan. I have run through the two ECU service note fault diagnoses procedures which report ECU Fault / Failure. I have checked all gounds on the 4 ECU couplings - they are fine. I have checked the ALDL gounds and ECU gounds - all fine. I have checked ALL fuses and they are all fine. So any final suggestions or has any got a ECU for sale or recommend where I can get my fixed or re-con'd ? Any help greatly appreciated....
  11. Hi Toby, I hope thats true as it must be your turn to fix this damn CEL problem on our car. I did also hopefully fix at least one of the two non working Rad Fan rad last night as well. I'm going to search for CEL problems in a sec and if need be open a new thread for that problem. My CEL wasnt coming on at all. After leaving the ignition on for few minutes while I was doing some reading - it suddenly came back on and has stayed on. But I dont get any error codes shorting pin A & B on the ALDL and Freescan doesnt get any response either.
  12. The brake pedal feel on the S4 and S4S(IIRC) really lets these otherwise great car down. If you can afford the the three or four grand extra, just go for the V8 - Im also fairly certain that in real terms the average mpg on an 4pot is much worse than a V8, especially when you start to push it. I easily shift nearly a full tank (
  13. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. With the car on axel stands until last week I'd pretty much given up on this issue as I had so many other things to worry about. However, with the car all back in one peice I thought I'd just give the windows a try on the off chance. Sure enough same old problem, will all doors closed - windows still dont work but do with a door open. So, moved on to fit the adjustable timer wiper relay in the front and was shocked to see that I had a fuse missing. Turned out to be Fuel Flap release fuse. So with the hand book out went through all the fuses and checked their ratings. I had 20amp fuses for the windows but the hand book states 10amp and I also had a few others with higher ratings in there too! Got back in the car and tried the electric mirrors - which didnt initally work as the left right switch didnt appear to be in position. Electric mirrors then worked. Tried the windows with all doors and bonnet closed and they worked ! I'll need to do some more testing as I ran out of time last night to get to the bottom of this properly but the windows are working again!!!!! Now to sort out my CEL problem!
  14. My S4 never came with a boost gauge or transducer and during the early days of ownership when the car was boosting very strangely fitting one was essential to help understand what the car was and was not doing. So I bought a boost gauge similar to the existing S4 dials for about
  15. Well after a very long time off the scene and my poor car not even seeing the road for over 12 months I've have finally finished a major re-work on the front of the car. I now have the V8 front valance fitted with v8 front undertray but with the S4 Rad and chargecooler still in place. I have replaced my almost finless CC/Aircon rad with a nice new lotus one and I have also dumped the use of the aircon rad and instead done the S300 combined chargecooler rad. This was a painful and tricky process and should not be attempted unless your a die-hard machanic with more time and money then sense! none of which apply to me. The bottom line is this job was a massive amount of work and money for very little difference in respect of the valance change. In my case I had to replace the front bumper and lower valance anyway but if you dont and your thinking about upgrading the front to the look of the V8 I would strong recommend not to bother. The existing oil cooler ducts, Main rad duct, left and right undertrays and all grills forward and rear facing must be changed. Luckily the main rad tray and Rads does not to be changed. The most painful part of the process the removal of the existing body work and the removal of the rusted and knacked body mount fixings. None of which came off easy and had to be cut out and access was typically dreadful. So I've just got the rear calipers and rotars to upgrade/replace and I can get the car in for an MOT and back on the road at last before it goes in for a clutch change.... Oh joy, but at least Im doing my bit to fend of the credit crunch!
  16. I got the wiring diagram for my S4 for the windows and spoke to an auto-elec. He says that the most likely thing to cause this problem is a failure of the logic module that is shown on the wiring diagram. I've been through the parts and service manual but I cant find any reference to this. If nothing turns up I'll give the Lotus Helpline a try. I've already replaced the window lift motor voltage regulator, just in case and the problem persists.
  17. I dont know if this applies but I got the wiring diagram for my S4 for the windows and spoke to an auto-elec. He says that the most likely thing to cause this problem is a failure of the logic module that is shown on the wiring diagram. I've been through the parts and service manual but I cant find any reference to this. I'm going to post in the Stevens forum in a sec to see if anyone knows what part this is. If nothing turns up I'll give the Lotus Helpline a try.
  18. CarlC

    North West Group ?

    Hi Guys ! NWEG - Not quite teh same ring to it - but its a lot less miles to meet up. The NMEG guys are great, and I hope to get a trip down to see them again in the next month or so once teh cars back together. But count me in for the NWEG group. Oh and top of SuperDave's list, Im not sure if that in order of most no shows, with my wanna be V8... B)
  19. Hey Mark, Your not alone, even us high tech boys with the S4's get this problem. My car has exactly the same probelm out of nowhere. I posted in the Stevens Tech forum about this some time ago without a solution as yet. Im in the process of fitting a new c/c rad and front end at present. But I dug out the wiring diagrams for mine the other night to have another go at it. Ill keep an eye on your progress and let you know if turns up for me in case its of any use, if you haven't got it fixed by then. Good Luck!
  20. Would you believe that I found an almost identical one in Halfords. Its the full ariel for about a tenner. The base is slightly smaller. You'll just need to use a slightly larger washer on the underside and make a join to the existing cable. I think the full lotus ariel is more than
  21. Dermot has these Mod on his S4. Dermots web site is a great source of info to and well worth a look.
  22. Hi Graham, I did wonder if you meant US Measure.
  23. 93 RON - That sounds like cheap stuff. Have you tried any proper fuel ? like at least 95 RON. I typically run 97ron and as Marcus says I typically see only a couple of knock counts if any on my runs.
  24. If you adjust the waste gate actuator arm it does affect bring boost in early or late. As Jon says the cars isnt an SE so there is no overboost its just mechanical based of the actuator capsule. I cant remember which way round to make the adjustment, IIRC if you shorten the arm it will give you more boost earlier. If your capsule is working correctly it should be a problem for your car other than your turbo is working harder, has less time to cool and will generate higher intake tempratures an lower overall performance. Personally, I'g get the car back to stand performance then adjust to suit your personal likeing. strong boost at 2000rpm does sound excessive. As was suggested I'd also strongly suggest checking that your capsule is working correctly and not bleeding boost pressure from a split pipe for example. This could also have similar results to what you are experiencing but lead to dangers in overboosting your turbo.
  25. Sounds like wastegate actuator arm could be in incorrectly set.
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