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Everything posted by CarlC

  1. Sounds like wastegate actuator arm could be in incorrectly set.
  2. Great job Owen. I'd definitely buy one as its only a matter of time before the lower lip gets mashed again. However, it may be a bit longer now I've got the 'special' ride hight of the new lotus suspension... Like Jon says, for that money I'd just get a couple in for spare. Brilliant find and keep us posted on what they can do with the lengths...
  3. Thanks Adrian, So, there should be a significant power gain between 1 bar and 1.1 or 1.2 than .8 and .9 for example ? ...Obviously assuming the turbo is still fairly effecient at these output levels. Do I understand that correctly ?
  4. Hi Adrian, Please could you expand on your comment for me ? "Remember that above 1 bar that the boost relates to power on a x 4 basis so you are talking about big differences between 1.2 and 1.4 or 1.6."
  5. I have the SJ Super Sports + decat. Its bordering on being loud and does sound impressive, the removal of the cat makes a very noticable difference to the sound level rather than the note. However, its a massive difference over the stock setup which is garbage. From what I've heard the SJ Supersports is similar to the Larrini in that it provides a significant improvement in sound from stock. I personally dont think there is actually much difference between SJ's and Larrini other than perhaps your own preference to note. I would say the difference is the SJ is more roar thoaty sound ing where the larrini is perhaps more refined. Jon with the red s4 has a sound recording of his larrini system. My rads are off at present otherwise I would have pulled my finger out and done a recording. We should probably get something sorted at one of the meet's we have and record some exhaust notes for comparison for the record, as this type of question regulary comes up...
  6. To my knowledge this hasnt been tried before and Im very interested to see how you get on. Im sure like a number of S4 owner the brake system really lets the car down in a massive way. It would be brilliant if you are able to get a effective system to replace the current crap system. Keep us posted. B)
  7. WOW so many Dyno Runs. After seeing my car doing one I was reluctant to ever put it through that again. V.Scary! - There on youtube too! :-) The stock Esprit and Freescan log I mentioned before is the the actual run. It wasnt scientific but car performance on the same road route is what I used along with Freescan. Also alot cheaper and lot more fun. I only dyno'd when I was pretty sure everything was fixed, just to make sure. I also note from your web site your quoting some really odd looking BHP for the S4, 215bhp at the start, am I reading that right ? That sounds like our stock output of an N/A Esprit?
  8. Ok, deep breath. I can understand your pain but there will be an answer out there. The people on here are excellent and will be invaluable to getting to the bottom of this issue. It is however very sad to see the amount of pain you appear to have gone through with W/C Eng and the dual port wastegate capsule. Anyway frustration aside... I'm no expert on matters but I did have a very long battle with my car to get it boosting properly. However, my strategy was to get the stock car working properly before thinking about any upgrades. I also used Freescan extensively around each change and it was this that made the difference and allowed the problems to be isolated and addressed. Thanks out again to Dermot and others on the forum for the help with this. If its of any use I have a Freescan Log of a perfectly performing stock 1994 S4 on a rolling road (Backmarker ). This log was confirmed as opertating as expected by Dermot and the car made around 270bhp during this run on a cold February Morning a couple of years ago. Its a great base line for freescan log comparisons. Just for the record there was a number of minor issues preventing my car from boosting properly. Most of which you appear to have already replaced. Knacked Wastegate Capsule, (but appeared fine when pressure testing), Incorrectly adjusted wastegate capsule arm, Boost Soleniod, vacuum line to MAP Sensor, Boost pressure line. Lack of boost gauge (so fitted one), small intake Manifold leak, knacked spark plug, chargecooler impellor, chargecooler rad, oil air seperator, one way checkvalves, to name the main culprits. One other point of note, I see from your page you have implemented an oil catch can. Myself and Jon did this but we found we had issues with the Sump pressurising and the car blowing oil out of the dip stick under heavy load. This is obviously the reason why that pipe has such a large inner bore. Im not saying the implementation of the catch can and breather is related but I've removed it from mine and gone direct to atmosphere. I'd like to see any Freescan logs you have so please feel free to email me. I dont have Dermots level of understanding but I do have plenty of my own logs from different stages for comparison. Good luck... Keep us posted.... B)
  9. Great ot hear from you Graham. I'd hope to get out to meet up with the NMEG gang very soon. Its likely to be May, early june before Im back on the scene. And its a disgrace I havent seen your V8 yet.
  10. Hi Adrian, Thanks for the pictures. That looks, much better than the current large overlap on the stock S4. I'm sold on the wheel spacer idea after seeing your pics. B)
  11. Hi Mark, thanks for your comments. I very much doubt Ill go with the arch extentions, as you rightly say the S4 stock wheels hardly fill the body as it is. I am considering rear wheel hub extentions becuase of this, but thats for a whole other thread. To my knowledge I know of only two Medina green S4's. Apparently, it was spotted at Donny last year, but I never saw it in the flesh. I have seen a GT3 in what I thought was Medina green but it was a much darker green than mine and wasnt Medina (B18) . Anyway Thanks, more pressure to keep it origonal. I may have to do do a bit of photo shop work to help deceide...
  12. Oh no! - dont go putting ideas like that in my head. But its a good point I hadnt considered. It also highlights my dilema. Given the cars are so rare, even the S4, with the research I did a few year ago confirmed that there were only 94 registered S4 on UK roads. I dont really want to de-value the model by creating a v8 looking 4pot. Though I appreciate the S300 had the extentions on. I just like the more aggressive look of the V8 front. Given I can always put back on the origonal spoiler I think Ill probably opt for the V8 but the jury is still out on what to do...
  13. The front valance on my S4 has always been in poor shape since I bought the car and I've done my best to fix it, so its didnt look that bad and probably not noticable if you didnt know about it. But its now off the car and as Im probably going to get it resprayed I thought I should consider getting a new one as they arent that expensive (
  14. Thanks for the reply Andy, The bit I was struggling with is, if the volume of water is the same and the system is sealed why would flow be affected negatively with the rads connected in serial. If anything flow going to a T would seem to be more likely to cause a reduction in flow. However, thankfully the light bulbs just turned on. Lotus obviously setup the rads in parrallel because the aircon rad looks to be a smaller bore than the chargecooler. In which case with the rads connected in serial it would cause a flow restriction. So parrallel it is then. B) thanks all.
  15. Hi Guys, Having the rads off my car at present and about to replace my old CC/aircon rad with the brand new one I got from the lotus parts sale, Im fairly certain I wont be putting back the aircon becuase its the old type, and ill just use the Aircon rad for the charge cooler. However, I've had a good look at the S300 setup for the rad but I would have thought that in terms of flow efficency it would have been far better to have the rad in serial. The S300 setup has a T after a bend to split the flow to the second rad. Its just looks awkward in terms of flow. Just interest in peoples opinions and experience before I take the plunge and have to deciede which way to set it up.
  16. OMG! - what have you created there Artie! That sounds incredable. I wont ever complain about my exhaust being a bit on the loud side again.
  17. Thanks for your help Guys, the rads are all out and it was a little easier than I expected. Once the six tray bolts were out and the the two bolts from the A frames from the chassis it took some prizing out, as if it was glued. The oil coolers looked horrible to unbolt and try and rotate so I used a special tool to cut the tray lips over the oil coolers out. I also left the A frame support from the chassis in place to support the rads which allowed me to remove each rad in turn on my own. B)
  18. Brilliant, thanks Jon thats a big help. With photoshop skills like that you want to be booking on to a fine art course! Thanks for replying Jim.
  19. Thanks for the reply Jon. I thought I remembered you doing this previously. The oil cooler connections look fairly nasty, I take it Ill have to have a go at the connection on the bottom of the oil coolers? Then just twist them back and outwards. Ill give it a go and report back.
  20. Hi Guys, Finally pulled my finger out now that its warmed up a bit and Im cracking on to replace my Chargecooler/Aircon rad. I've had a look at the usual locations for a guide as I thought I'd seen one for replacing the rads but now I've come to do this I've not been able to locate any info on it. So If anyone has a link to a guide that would be great. Alternatively... I've got all the front underside of the car removed like the ducting and I've managed to remove the six bolts just hidden under the pod lift motors that attaches the radiador / cc rad / aircon rad tray to the underside of the front of the car. I've also removed the front struts going from the chassis to rad tray and the bolts that go through the tray to the rads. so the chargecooler is basic loose inside the rad tray. However the tray still seems solidly attached to the car although I do get some movement out of it. The tray also run over the top of the oil coolers for no apparent good reason. So how do I get the tray to drop out of the bottom of the car to reveal the rads ? Thanks Guys,
  21. If its any use a sticker in the front of my 94 S4 (just pre-Brembo) shows maximum weight 1556kg. But as has been said it appears there are some numbers wrong some where with gt3 showing same weight as an S4.
  22. Chris, Are you talking about the right hose here...? The hose from the air filter to the turbo is fairly large, 10cm running down about 6cm and nearly 3ft in length IIRC. It is also wire re-enforced. There is a pile of wires and crap that tend to sit on this hose applying external pressure causing it sometimes to be squashed, especially if the engines been worked on and it hasnt quite been put back properly. Would a silcon replacement stand up to that at that sort of size?
  23. I could not tell if you have Freescan working or not but... For me the first question to answer with overboost is; In third gear for example; if you go to wide open throttle from about 3000 rpm does freescan show any reading on the wastegate DC field? normally you should start to see some values appearing around 4000rpm? If the answer is No you never see any values in the wastegate DC field then your car is not requesting overboost from the boost solenoid. I doubt this is the problem. If the Answer is YES you do see values appear then the ECU is requesting over boost but machanically the system cant deliver it. It real terms it means that manifold pressure is still reaching your waste gate actuator causing pressure to bleed off, assuming you have consistent normal boost pressure at around .65 bar.
  24. OK, bonnet then... Thanks for that Phil, Ill have a look more into this suggestion on Saturday. At least it sounds like a sensible place to start given your comment regarding the earth to the window motor themselves. Cheer Danny. Im fairly certain that the windows will continue to work even if the interior light timer goes off. But saying that does the interior light actually run on a timer if the doors are left open anyway?
  25. Hi Calvin, Everything else works perfect. The windows work perfect, just as long as either door is open. :crybaby: Thinking the problem was door close related/earth related I stripped the door close contacts out, cleaned all the contacts up removed the door cards and spent about 2 hours looking for a broken wire. Obviously there wasnt any. What I believe is now happening is that when either door or the hood is opened it create an earth. This earth must be creating the earth reuired to make the windows work. I believe that I have some how broken the earth to the window lift motors. I going to put all the door contacts back together as they are working correctly on saturday and see if I can dig out some wiring diagram for the window lift motors. I am even give the lotus helpline a call. Im not there yet but at least I feel I have made progress in the diagnosis.
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