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Everything posted by CarlC

  1. If you are still after the front splitter, I have just listed one on ebay, both sides and in good condition. (Well it will appear at about 6pm'ish this evening).
  2. I'll stick a note in the for sale section, but having now sadly written off my car before fitting my Alunox manifold, I now have one for sale. This was purchased as part of the second group by You'll see my name on the list and is still in the original Alunox box it was shipped to me in. Please message me if interested in purchasing.
  3. AIB - EXCELLENT, not just on premium! I have paid £199 last year with AIB and recently renewed with them for the same money. Having now crashed my car after loosing the back end near my house, the car has very sadly been written off. AIB and MarkerStudy (underwriters to AIB) have been excellent. Car had a 'modification' included on the policy but not listed and an estimated value of £14k. I have had no issues with either AIB, Markerstudy or their specialist appraisers they sent out to value the car. I got paid out based on the appraisers discussion with me which was a fair bit over my estimated value from 12 months ago. The appraiser took no notice of my low estimate on the policy and clearly went on current market conditions for my car and its condition which he commented was 'very good'. The car was also just out of MOT which I only realised when making the claim. This clearly made little difference to them which was thankfully understandable given the receipts for service work I provided. So after initially being extremely concerned about claiming after some of the horror stories you hear about, AIB were excellent and professional at all times and although I am hugely gutted about loosing my car I am extremely grateful AIB made the claim process very quick and straight forward. Great people to do business with and I cant recommend their service enough having dealt with them through both sides of their service.
  4. After reading this thread I'd thought I'd replace my IAC with the part supplied by Rock Auto. The car has been running what I would consider pretty good considering I'm currently living with a sheared manifold stud causing a blowing at the manifold. However, possibly because of this issue the car seems to want a restart after first start up or it will stall without higher than normal revs setting off. So for the little money this costs, the possible fuel consumption improvement and its probably one of the easiest installs, I thought I'd get it done. I would guess that the IAC has never been changed on the car. On removal it was pretty black and there was at least a good few mm movement in the shaft side to side. Swapped it over, reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery and then started her up. As Glyn found, immediate improvement in tick over stability. Much better control / easier throttle control setting off as though the car has an easier time of stopping the revs dropping off when setting off. General low speed running off throttle / little throttle seems much more controlled. Felt as though the car ECU Learning process settled down much more quickly. All quite subtle and probably subjective, but considering I wasn't really trying to fix any specific issue, I'm really pleased I change IAC. I'd definitely recommend it to anyone who hasn't changed theirs in a while or ever! Thanks to the contributors in this thread who have put in the leg work to track down the correct part no. and info (Barry and Alan). Great work!
  5. After the car would not start after a short run out at the weekend I ended up swapping and reseating a pile of relays and modules in car as part of the fault finding. Turned out to be a wire becoming dislodged from the starter. With that sorted, I've now noticed that the courtesy lights are working perfectly and the window switch lights go off. This is without the discontinued window lift module.
  6. Hi All, I must issue a correction about the SJ Part I mentioned. The SJ part I referenced and purchased incorrectly, was the window lift relay. The part I actually needed to replace was the Windows Voltage Relay. Steve at SJ's has confirmed the two parts are not inter-changeable. Sorry Steve 'SJ'! At least the part does make my electric windows work. I've emailed Steve to see if he knows of a possible replacement available.
  7. Hi Qavion, Don't know my VIN off hand but my S4 has the new revised wiring harness and plastic header tank. However, I did just miss out on getting the Brembo brakes by a few cars. :-( And yes should have made thank more explicit - it is indeed the Window Lift Relay!
  8. So this picture shows the original relay and the pin configuration. All correctly matched to the parts manual. The SJ relay I bought is missing the two corner pins. But has all the same 5 male spade connectors. The windows work perfectly, but clearly this relay is supply permanent 12v to the window switches and leaving the window switch lights on. If that was bad enough I also stops the courtesy light delay from working and to top it all off - my best is this is also the cause of the infamous battery drain! Anyone know of a truly suitable replacement part for this relay ?
  9. Cant quite believe this! I believe I've stumbled on a major break through about the window switch lights mystery. After messing with my CC pump tonight, I knew my battery would be drained and probably dead if I left it over night. So I went back out unlocked the car, opened the bonnet removed the Window switch relay closed the bonnet and sure enough the window switch lights were off. Put the relay on the drivers seat ready for the morning, closed the drivers door and the courtesy light stayed on! WTF! Locked the car and the courtesy light went out. Tried this in reverse, so unlocked the car, got in, shut the door, the courtesy light stayed on for about 20 seconds and went off all by its self! Checked again on existing the car and the courtesy light stays for a while so you can lock your car. So Rich H was totally correct! - The window switches lights should shut off automatically when the courtesy light goes out but they don't because we have the wrong relay type in our cars. What is interesting is that the new relay appears to be missing a single pin contact from one of the corners. The original relay as well as the relay socket in the car has a plug but on the new relay no pin for it. My relay is new recently from SJ Sportscars listed specifically for the S4. Its a Hella (4RA 933 332 - 15) 12v 40A. For some reason this relay is disabling the courtesy light delay circuit. My guess is this is also leaving the window switches permanently full powered and the window switch lights on seriously contributing to battery drain. OK I've done the hard part . Now what relay should we really be using in our cars so I can get those bloody window switch lights off finally! Please can some one whose window switch lights shut off with please let us know a part number on the Windows Switch Relay ?
  10. Thanks for the comments. My alarm immobiliser is whatever is stock. There has been something additional fitted at one time as there in an additional small key hole a little nearer the steering wheel from the ignition. It will be weekend now before I can run the fuse pull tests but I'll report back my findings. I'll leave the window switches alone for now.
  11. After several hours reading any and all related posts, it appears I'll be multi-metering the battery and pulling fuse to further isolate the issue. Frustratingly, plenty of reports of this problem but very little actual stated resolutions or confirmed causes.
  12. I appreciate this is an old post but I can't see it stated what the actual situation is. I have always had battery drain issue on the car. Even with the interior lights / door lights working correctly. The windows switch light although very faint always seem to be on. Recently after a load of work on my car the door switches went duff so replaced and eventually got all door lights and courtesy lights working as they should. Well apart from the courtesy light going off immediately on door close which is a pain if it's very dark. Anyway the window switch lights are still always on and I'm still getting battery drain. I've also swapped all internal lighting to LEDs so I known it ain't those. Window switch lights or ecu, or any better suggestions? Can the window switches be opened safely without damage ? Would be great to put this issue the rest if anyone can help.
  13. Not got my car with me to confirm the time, but it definitely long enough to make you feel awkward after flashing some one out. I also suspect that if you single pull and release the flasher that the lights actually flash in the pods just as the lift starts, therefore looking even more odd in that you have just 'lifted' your lights to let them out rather than flashed them. As Mark has said, I really try and avoid this whole situation now which is really sad as I try to be an even more considerate and courteous when in the Esprit than the daily driver. Be great if the time the pods stay up could be significantly shortened somehow.
  14. All sorted and paid for me too! Big thanks to Nicky at Alunox for helping with my queries and prompt replies. 1. Trevor 2. Trevor 3. Sparky 4. Eken 5. Dan 6. CarlC
  15. You can use the 'Follow this Topic' button towards the top right of this page. That way you get an email every time there is a new post with the details of the post submitted. I'd rather try and stick with the group buy but its not a huge saving, so If anyone one on the list cant wait any longer and have to purchase, please shout up as I will order at the same time as I don't think I can get my car on the road without this now.
  16. According to LEW models guide on the SE ... "it is worth emphasizing that anti-lock brakes did not become available, optionally or otherwise, until the autumn of 1990" As regards a solution, knowing what I know now, I'd be getting my name down for one of Darrens (dodge1979) new kits when they are available. This thread is really worth the read from start to finish if you want to make your mind up on the best way to sort your brakes out.
  17. Hi Jim, I had to replace the lower valance and bumper on my S4, so I did swap over to the V8 front valance and bumper. I think the actual bumper section is the same between the S4 and V8. There was a surprising amount of work required to get the valance to fit. Not least the shape of all the ducting for the Rads and Oil coolers is different. I really wouldn't recommend the change as the only outwardly obvious difference is really the sides of the valance and the front oil cooler ducts look a little more aggressive. Although its a much bigger change SE to V8. As I had to replace the bumper and valance anyway I didn't mind so much all the hassle of the change. Given the cost in materials, time and parts, I would personally recommend saving a little more cash and put the money saved on parts towards an actual V8, as there are many other benefits to making this step up to the newer model that make it well worth the extra cash. Best of luck with what ever you decide though.
  18. Hi Gert, I wasn't blaming the switch specifically for that incident. I'd done that along with a total flush/bleed of the lines and the actual delco system itself. The stuff that came out of the unit eventually was almost black and looked like it had completely broken down and been in there for a very long time. As Darren highlighted in the OP there are multiple key elements to this system that clearly need to be addressed to get this Delco system functioning and feeling that it was intended. Just counting the days now before I get mine sorted!
  19. Yea, tried that exactly from a post suggesting it may help. In my case I intially thought it had made a massive improvement until I took it on the actual road at low speed and tried to stop. with good initial pressure my foot then went to the floor and sod all brakes approaching a tight right hand bend in front of a ditch. So that taugh me a very useful lesson. Just lucky it wasnt a costly one on that occasion.
  20. Latest from Paul Matty's is that the pressure switches will be with them in around two weeks. So hopefully the supply of switches is sorted again now.
  21. Thanks Philip, Apparently. Paul Mattys have ordered the Valves from PVL. However, it sounds like PVL are having trouble getting some other parts from their supplier and are trying to source alternatives. Guess I'll just have to sit it out a while longer and keep my fingers crossed.
  22. Paul Mattys are struggling to get their Pressure Switch supplier to provide the two switches required, which is frustrating as they have the rest of the kit ready to fit. Can anyone suggest or recommend a Pressure Switch supplier that I can contact to try and organise a reliable source for these pressure switches. Thanks,
  23. Just wanted to drop a response back on the topic of Darren and PAULGT3 efforts to get our Delco brake system working. Huge thanks to you guys for the sterling effort you've put in to resolving the awful brakes on our cars. I've now contact Paul Matty's and I just waiting to get my car booked in for the full replacement system detailed by Darren at the start of this thread. The brake system in its current state is by far the biggest failing of our cars. My system had the typical dead wood feeling to the brakes with no pedal feel and what felt like very poor servo assistance. Even the brake update to Brembo Rears and Hi-Spec 4 pot fronts with bigger disc and fast road pads did absolutely nothing to really improve feel or performance. Obviously now given the explanation provided by Darren, these upgrades were never going to improve things. I'll report back on the improvements once completed by Paul Matty's. Again, huge thanks to Darren and PaulGT3 for resolving this.
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