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Rgardner01

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Rgardner01 last won the day on July 19 2010

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About Rgardner01

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  • Birthday 24/06/1973

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  • Name
    Ray
  • Car
    1998 V8 SE Johan ECU, Center non muffler exhaust

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  1. Only other rotational item in that area of the engine is the cambelt drive. Could be anything from bearings, to improper chain guide adjustment. Just to rule things out agian with the auxillary drive items...with a cold engine leave the auxillary belt off...start , run the car, rev the engine just enough to see if the sound changed then stop the motor. Yes you will get a few codes....alternator showing not charging. But with a cold engine you should be able to start and listen for a few seconds before it gets dangerously warm. If you have the belt off and the noise is still there , then you have elimated the water pump, power steering, AC, alternator and belt tenshioner all in one shot. Only item left is the cam belt drive / crank. The fact you had your engine apart I would lean to the cam drive bearings / chain / or excessive or two tight clearence of the installed bearings. Probalby not the end of the world if you fix it quickly. Good part if its this you only need ot take the fron off the engine...should not require tearing the motor down...although it might have to come out. You may even want to take the plastic covers off and verify the pullys are on correctly on the center cam drive....are the belts running true? Is there any sign of rubbing on the engine or belts? Is ther any sign of rubbing on the plastic covers?
  2. I just wanted to update you on this issue as I am sure many people suffer from time to time rough idle, extreme popping out of the right side exhaust, rough idle after warm up vs cold and even hard starting. Although I thought I had this fixed a year ago, shortly after I posted I realized my efforts where not correct...basically I was dumping enough fuel to hide the underlying issue. Anyway several months ago I was told to check the cam positions. Now I do my own cam set up and belt changes and even from time to time have had them done. I have checked my work against actual shops and everything they did always checked out the same as what I was doing ( Belt tension and tolerance pin alignment ) It wasnt until had the engine out and at the same time was told by another Lotus owner to check the cam timing, especially the intake on Bank 1. I checked it...."tolerance pins" went in, showed holed lined up, and tension was right. After starring at it I noticed the pins although correct where not true vertical. Looking and looking at it I began to be more critical of it and decided to take the cams out and reset everything to "0" tolerance. After loosing the cam pulleys, adjusting and tension belt so the cams where set to the "SETTING PINS", I checked again with the tolerance pins. Not only where they straight now, they actually went in much deeper then before. Although what Lotus is doing with the cam alignment is rather simple , the checking method can cause error...especially if your doing it in car. If you have the parts out of car you can see how the set pins can wobble in the cam journal towers, or even become skewed as you screw then into the cam, and they touch the sides of the cam alignment holes. If the cam towers had more thread length this probably would not happen. What was going on with my car was the Right side Bank 1 Intake cam was out of tolerance...think advanced. Bank 1 intake cam is the reference cam so if its out compared the the others ....weird things happen. So the car would start up and run ok, then once the computer took over into closed loop it would go to hell because of the two sides have different cam durations. The car would pop out the right side, idle poorly and seemed like it less grunt down low. Since re-setting my Cams to "0" with the set pins while doing my belt tension and changes, the exhaust popping is almost gone...in fact it only shows when the car is running warm. Car runs better, idles smooth and has its grunt back. If you have these issues, aside from checking the other items we all see go wrong...check cam timing...be very critical of its position..especially Bank 1 intake. Chances are its part of the issue.
  3. Just was taken this weekend on a short cruise. 98 Esprit V8, Holloway Trans upgrade, intercooled, cone filters, straight exhaust ( No cats or mufflers ) Hi torque ECU,
  4. I looked into this awhile ago...I lost my info but is what I did I spent the day on Ebay looking at BMW ECU pictures, some models have the same connector and pin count. Do the same , figure out what cars .... i think it was 750, 850s us the same pin count then search ebay for the cheapest wire harness or ECU for that car to strip the parts off of.... I wanted to add in an aftermarket ECU but did not want to cut the harness so my idea was to create a jumper harness to plug into the main loom. Is that what you are trying to do??
  5. Gonzalo I would be interested in your source for pistons / liners. It appears I have burnt or tweaked a valve so my engine is on its way out. I figure while I am there it would be wasted effort to at least not to update the pistons, add head studs and pin the front cambelt sprocket. I commend you on your rebuild...outstanding work. Did you use stock bearings or aftermarket? I know Audi ones where mentioned once before. Any information or warnings your could offer would be appreciated. Thanks Ray [email protected]
  6. Ok...so I leave my battery off my car for 3 weeks since I was on a business trip. I come home connect the battery to take the car for a spin and now my car will not start. Igfnition on I did get dash lights but the fob refuses to have the alarm respond....solid light on the dash. Now here is the odd part...the light on the dash remains on solid...no blinking...even after undoing the battery again I have tried my alarm chip stick....nothing I have tried re-syncing the FOB....nothing...followed the owners manual instructions. After doing this...now I get no dash lights.... Yes the battery is charged. Any thoughts?? Even after undoing the black alam box back by the ECM the light still remains solid red. Where is the other alarm box?? I have really never liked this alarm....how hard is it to rip this second rate alarm system out of the car?
  7. I have no idea why they did not do this from the start. when I had my engine out I thought of the same thing....if the cams retain the move able then there is no need for movement on the bottom set that I can see. Let em know if you come up with a design or shop to cut the key ways.
  8. So...you recently had the engine out. I have done this also ...a few lessons and items I chased 1) Boost solinoid. Is it hooked up correctly? In theory you could have the vacuum / boost hooked to the wrong port. This will cause an issue..but you also will have odd boost feeling like feeling a loose clutch or wheel slip at high RPMs as only the wastegate springs will be holding boost so they open at 4~5000 RPM giving you the feeling of a loss of power 2) I had hesitation, hard starting - was aftermarket injectors - I assume yours are stock correct? 3) My hesitation just came back , but I have codes now - B7 fuse blowing on the EVAP. Have you checked your EVAP system. The solinoids are correctly installed and working? Wires correctly installed , wires not installed ? This could allow excess fuel fumes to be injected to engine ...and if its not at the right time / temp you will get all sorts of issues including hard starting 4) You could isolate the issue some by unplugging all vacuum hoses, plug them off a the plennum and throttle body. does the issue go away or get better? . Clear / yellow is EVAP, throttle body goes to boost solinoid. Small black goes to heater controls. 5) Does the car appear to be running rich? smell , excess exhaust poping? 6) Verify the vacuum hose to the pressure regulator is hooked up and tight...easily forgotten
  9. Was chasing a off idle hesitation, hard starting, poor idle and even a some boost issues...all where found to be caused by the Aftermarket injectors I put in, I rebuilt the OEM Lotus ones and car now runs and starts like it should...added a reply in my orignal post on the issue
  10. AC Delco #12570619 I am guessing you mean the actual valve not the metal fuel rail housing. Easily replaced...takes seconds if you have the little valve removal tool. Its identical to replacing a tire valve....hint ask a tire shop for the tool. Fuel Valve - Most General Motors 1991 - 2008 AC Delco #12570619. Cost like 10~ 20 bucks with a new cap. Look up tire valve removal tool....its just a little fork looking thing. A small pair of needle nose pliers could be uses to undo it. It just unscrews. Look up the tool....you could make one really quickly. See picture at http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41cXSfXSCzL._SL500_AA300_.jpg Keep in mind the black cap serves no purpose other then as a dust cover...it has no sealing abilities and is not made to hold back any kind of pressure!!
  11. Well after chasing this issue for some time I have traced the it to my upgraded injectors. It appears that although some may run RC injectors with out fault they where causing my issues. Not saying that RC injectors are bad but they just where not working in my car. Through my investigation it looks like the RC injectors ohm out at 16.2 ohms, the stock injectors are 12.2 ohms. My theory here from what I have read about solenoids and injectors is , although both are" high independence injectors" it appears the added resistance of the RC injectors creates a very quick open close time, although this sounds good it cuts the spray duration time down, in turn my car was running lean over, trying to compensate which just kept it in a death loop of too lean too rich....right or wrong something was up with the upgraded injectors. The car now idles nicer, no hesitation when cold , no more hard starts.
  12. Well there have been other references to EMM.6 in other threads on here....even in the L082T0327J it make reference to section EMM.6 ( I'll find the page number again ) ...but yes you are right the L082T0327J manual only has sections 1-4. Does EMM.6 exist....who knows. I solved my issue before the manual arrived so onto the shelf to collect dust it goes. It was sort of a let down as i thought it would include more detailed analysis of individual components. At least it looks like it has some better wire diagrams.
  13. Thanks. Talked to Jay and got one being sent out.
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