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Rgardner01

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Everything posted by Rgardner01

  1. Only other rotational item in that area of the engine is the cambelt drive. Could be anything from bearings, to improper chain guide adjustment. Just to rule things out agian with the auxillary drive items...with a cold engine leave the auxillary belt off...start , run the car, rev the engine just enough to see if the sound changed then stop the motor. Yes you will get a few codes....alternator showing not charging. But with a cold engine you should be able to start and listen for a few seconds before it gets dangerously warm. If you have the belt off and the noise is still there , th
  2. I just wanted to update you on this issue as I am sure many people suffer from time to time rough idle, extreme popping out of the right side exhaust, rough idle after warm up vs cold and even hard starting. Although I thought I had this fixed a year ago, shortly after I posted I realized my efforts where not correct...basically I was dumping enough fuel to hide the underlying issue. Anyway several months ago I was told to check the cam positions. Now I do my own cam set up and belt changes and even from time to time have had them done. I have checked my work against actual shops
  3. Just was taken this weekend on a short cruise. 98 Esprit V8, Holloway Trans upgrade, intercooled, cone filters, straight exhaust ( No cats or mufflers ) Hi torque ECU,
  4. I looked into this awhile ago...I lost my info but is what I did I spent the day on Ebay looking at BMW ECU pictures, some models have the same connector and pin count. Do the same , figure out what cars .... i think it was 750, 850s us the same pin count then search ebay for the cheapest wire harness or ECU for that car to strip the parts off of.... I wanted to add in an aftermarket ECU but did not want to cut the harness so my idea was to create a jumper harness to plug into the main loom. Is that what you are trying to do??
  5. Gonzalo I would be interested in your source for pistons / liners. It appears I have burnt or tweaked a valve so my engine is on its way out. I figure while I am there it would be wasted effort to at least not to update the pistons, add head studs and pin the front cambelt sprocket. I commend you on your rebuild...outstanding work. Did you use stock bearings or aftermarket? I know Audi ones where mentioned once before. Any information or warnings your could offer would be appreciated. Thanks Ray [email protected]
  6. Ok...so I leave my battery off my car for 3 weeks since I was on a business trip. I come home connect the battery to take the car for a spin and now my car will not start. Igfnition on I did get dash lights but the fob refuses to have the alarm respond....solid light on the dash. Now here is the odd part...the light on the dash remains on solid...no blinking...even after undoing the battery again I have tried my alarm chip stick....nothing I have tried re-syncing the FOB....nothing...followed the owners manual instructions. After doing this...now I get no dash lights.... Ye
  7. I have no idea why they did not do this from the start. when I had my engine out I thought of the same thing....if the cams retain the move able then there is no need for movement on the bottom set that I can see. Let em know if you come up with a design or shop to cut the key ways.
  8. So...you recently had the engine out. I have done this also ...a few lessons and items I chased 1) Boost solinoid. Is it hooked up correctly? In theory you could have the vacuum / boost hooked to the wrong port. This will cause an issue..but you also will have odd boost feeling like feeling a loose clutch or wheel slip at high RPMs as only the wastegate springs will be holding boost so they open at 4~5000 RPM giving you the feeling of a loss of power 2) I had hesitation, hard starting - was aftermarket injectors - I assume yours are stock correct? 3) My hesitation just came back
  9. Was chasing a off idle hesitation, hard starting, poor idle and even a some boost issues...all where found to be caused by the Aftermarket injectors I put in, I rebuilt the OEM Lotus ones and car now runs and starts like it should...added a reply in my orignal post on the issue
  10. AC Delco #12570619 I am guessing you mean the actual valve not the metal fuel rail housing. Easily replaced...takes seconds if you have the little valve removal tool. Its identical to replacing a tire valve....hint ask a tire shop for the tool. Fuel Valve - Most General Motors 1991 - 2008 AC Delco #12570619. Cost like 10~ 20 bucks with a new cap. Look up tire valve removal tool....its just a little fork looking thing. A small pair of needle nose pliers could be uses to undo it. It just unscrews. Look up the tool....you could make one really quickly. See picture
  11. Well after chasing this issue for some time I have traced the it to my upgraded injectors. It appears that although some may run RC injectors with out fault they where causing my issues. Not saying that RC injectors are bad but they just where not working in my car. Through my investigation it looks like the RC injectors ohm out at 16.2 ohms, the stock injectors are 12.2 ohms. My theory here from what I have read about solenoids and injectors is , although both are" high independence injectors" it appears the added resistance of the RC injectors creates a very quick open close time, alt
  12. Well there have been other references to EMM.6 in other threads on here....even in the L082T0327J it make reference to section EMM.6 ( I'll find the page number again ) ...but yes you are right the L082T0327J manual only has sections 1-4. Does EMM.6 exist....who knows. I solved my issue before the manual arrived so onto the shelf to collect dust it goes. It was sort of a let down as i thought it would include more detailed analysis of individual components. At least it looks like it has some better wire diagrams.
  13. Thanks. Talked to Jay and got one being sent out.
  14. Can some one tell me what part number or what part number contains the V8 EMM.6 engine management section?? I see a L082T0327J number online but some sites say it only contains EMM 3 & 4. Any conformation on what part number to order would be appreciated. I want to make sure I order the correct manual(s). I have other sections on CD like most people do but I continue to struggle with a rough idile, hard starting, hesitation off idle, and running rich in the right side of my engine. I have replaced most everything over the course of a year and I am at my wits end with this car.
  15. I will have to try this. Looking at some of my old computer screen shots I can see some values below 0.05V....I saw a 0.005V on one of my screen shots in closed Loop. I will check the wire harness tonight and clean all connections agan. I have thrown multiple oxygen sensors at the car so I dont believe the fault lies within the sensor itself if this is the root cause of my issue.
  16. After lots of trials on sensors and the EVAP system I saw what appears to part of the issue, the car is running in open loop for an extended period of time. The car is undriveable at this time. I am still getting a P0462 for the fuel level. I disconected the entire sensor and resarted the car...the car went into closed loop and set a MIL lamp...normally it does not set a MIL lamp for this. Drove it for an hour and it drove like I remember from when it was new. I am not sure if this sensor causes some of this condition or not but I will check the car agian in the morning and see h
  17. Well the TPS sensor did not work. Replaced my new fuel pressure regulator again with a corvette one. That ended up showing only 39PSI so I replaced the fuel pumps . Still runs like garbage. I put my adjustible fuel pressure regulator back on since I believe the corvette one is not correct and adjusted it back up to 55 psi at idle. I can see the fuel pressure hold steady, spike upwards to 60+ when hitting the gas, and holds 45 psi after shut down and was still on 40 psi after I mowed the lawn. I dont think this issue is fuel system related...or alteast leakage Its very odd because th
  18. Well had some time to fool with it. Knocked the fuel pressure down to 55 psi and replaced the EVAP breather and also played around with the TPS sensor. I drilled out the TPS bolt holes so I had some rotational adjustment to it. Bolted it on making sure it had some pre adjustment to the throttle shaft. Runs better but still feel there may be something very slight. Will drive it a little bit and replace the TPS with a new one. I am still planning on removing all of the EGR and Air Injection to insure there is no air leaks there.
  19. Thanks guys. I'll try blocking off the secondaries and reseting the ECU. I have placed two new 02 sensors in the car but I will inspect the connections and wiring. Good to know the 32 degrees is a canned value. I'll also pull the plugs and see the condition to see if I one cylinder shows up worse then another .
  20. Well I have been trying different fuel pressure settings from 50~70 psi. The car seems to run a little better at 60+. I read in the manual fuel pressure running is supposed to be 61psi while the engine is running, 55 when it is not...I know many people have mentioned 55 as the stock value...so kind of cinfused on that one. I guess I'll purge the engine of all EGR nonsense and air injetion bits to eliminate any air leaks from those.
  21. Ok been chasing this problem for a year now and I am just fed up.... Car starts up cold fine, idles strong and has sharp throttle response. After a few seconds when the ECU goes into closed loop mode the car idles a little rougher and has a large hesitation when gas is applied. If I stab the gas the engine will just go quiet drop to 500 rpm and hang their then after what seems like a second it clears up and catches up. Its almost like the gas and ignition shut off. The car drives fine down the road but starting from a stop and applying throttle too quickly below 2000rpm will r
  22. I think the problem with several cases of aftermarket 02 sensors may be the fact a 4 wire o2 sensor comes in several un-detectable differences. 1 - Four wire sensor with 12 watt heater, grounded case and special protection tube. 2- Four wire sensor with 18 watt heater and grounded case. 3- Four wire sensor with 18 watt heater and ground isolated case. 4- Four wire sensor with 12 watt heater and grounded case. 5- Four wire sensor with 12 watt heater and ground isolated case. 6- Four wire “Planar” construction sensor. The V8 Esprit needs a Four wire sensor with a 12 watt heater is
  23. Sadly not really. Car runs great, idles ok but still has that annoying poping sound and hesitation. The codes have been erased and have not returned. The Po462 fuel level one solved itself with a full tank of gas... I feel the car is running lean at idle but no codes. I might try moving the TPS sensor around later this week a few positions and see if that has any affect on the off idle hesitation. Have you done anything to your car lately? Maybe I could see a pattern between mine and yours. I also feel my car runs hotter.
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