free hit
Rgardner01's Content - The Lotus Forums - Official Lotus Community Partner Jump to content


Basic Account
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Rgardner01

  1. Only other rotational item in that area of the engine is the cambelt drive. Could be anything from bearings, to improper chain guide adjustment. Just to rule things out agian with the auxillary drive items...with a cold engine leave the auxillary belt off...start , run the car, rev the engine just enough to see if the sound changed then stop the motor. Yes you will get a few codes....alternator showing not charging. But with a cold engine you should be able to start and listen for a few seconds before it gets dangerously warm. If you have the belt off and the noise is still there , then you have elimated the water pump, power steering, AC, alternator and belt tenshioner all in one shot. Only item left is the cam belt drive / crank. The fact you had your engine apart I would lean to the cam drive bearings / chain / or excessive or two tight clearence of the installed bearings. Probalby not the end of the world if you fix it quickly. Good part if its this you only need ot take the fron off the engine...should not require tearing the motor down...although it might have to come out. You may even want to take the plastic covers off and verify the pullys are on correctly on the center cam drive....are the belts running true? Is there any sign of rubbing on the engine or belts? Is ther any sign of rubbing on the plastic covers?
  2. I just wanted to update you on this issue as I am sure many people suffer from time to time rough idle, extreme popping out of the right side exhaust, rough idle after warm up vs cold and even hard starting. Although I thought I had this fixed a year ago, shortly after I posted I realized my efforts where not correct...basically I was dumping enough fuel to hide the underlying issue. Anyway several months ago I was told to check the cam positions. Now I do my own cam set up and belt changes and even from time to time have had them done. I have checked my work against actual shops and everything they did always checked out the same as what I was doing ( Belt tension and tolerance pin alignment ) It wasnt until had the engine out and at the same time was told by another Lotus owner to check the cam timing, especially the intake on Bank 1. I checked it...."tolerance pins" went in, showed holed lined up, and tension was right. After starring at it I noticed the pins although correct where not true vertical. Looking and looking at it I began to be more critical of it and decided to take the cams out and reset everything to "0" tolerance. After loosing the cam pulleys, adjusting and tension belt so the cams where set to the "SETTING PINS", I checked again with the tolerance pins. Not only where they straight now, they actually went in much deeper then before. Although what Lotus is doing with the cam alignment is rather simple , the checking method can cause error...especially if your doing it in car. If you have the parts out of car you can see how the set pins can wobble in the cam journal towers, or even become skewed as you screw then into the cam, and they touch the sides of the cam alignment holes. If the cam towers had more thread length this probably would not happen. What was going on with my car was the Right side Bank 1 Intake cam was out of tolerance...think advanced. Bank 1 intake cam is the reference cam so if its out compared the the others ....weird things happen. So the car would start up and run ok, then once the computer took over into closed loop it would go to hell because of the two sides have different cam durations. The car would pop out the right side, idle poorly and seemed like it less grunt down low. Since re-setting my Cams to "0" with the set pins while doing my belt tension and changes, the exhaust popping is almost fact it only shows when the car is running warm. Car runs better, idles smooth and has its grunt back. If you have these issues, aside from checking the other items we all see go wrong...check cam very critical of its position..especially Bank 1 intake. Chances are its part of the issue.
  3. Just was taken this weekend on a short cruise. 98 Esprit V8, Holloway Trans upgrade, intercooled, cone filters, straight exhaust ( No cats or mufflers ) Hi torque ECU,
  4. I looked into this awhile ago...I lost my info but is what I did I spent the day on Ebay looking at BMW ECU pictures, some models have the same connector and pin count. Do the same , figure out what cars .... i think it was 750, 850s us the same pin count then search ebay for the cheapest wire harness or ECU for that car to strip the parts off of.... I wanted to add in an aftermarket ECU but did not want to cut the harness so my idea was to create a jumper harness to plug into the main loom. Is that what you are trying to do??
  5. Gonzalo I would be interested in your source for pistons / liners. It appears I have burnt or tweaked a valve so my engine is on its way out. I figure while I am there it would be wasted effort to at least not to update the pistons, add head studs and pin the front cambelt sprocket. I commend you on your rebuild...outstanding work. Did you use stock bearings or aftermarket? I know Audi ones where mentioned once before. Any information or warnings your could offer would be appreciated. Thanks Ray
  6. I leave my battery off my car for 3 weeks since I was on a business trip. I come home connect the battery to take the car for a spin and now my car will not start. Igfnition on I did get dash lights but the fob refuses to have the alarm respond....solid light on the dash. Now here is the odd part...the light on the dash remains on blinking...even after undoing the battery again I have tried my alarm chip stick....nothing I have tried re-syncing the FOB....nothing...followed the owners manual instructions. After doing I get no dash lights.... Yes the battery is charged. Any thoughts?? Even after undoing the black alam box back by the ECM the light still remains solid red. Where is the other alarm box?? I have really never liked this hard is it to rip this second rate alarm system out of the car?
  7. I have no idea why they did not do this from the start. when I had my engine out I thought of the same thing....if the cams retain the move able then there is no need for movement on the bottom set that I can see. Let em know if you come up with a design or shop to cut the key ways.
  8. recently had the engine out. I have done this also ...a few lessons and items I chased 1) Boost solinoid. Is it hooked up correctly? In theory you could have the vacuum / boost hooked to the wrong port. This will cause an issue..but you also will have odd boost feeling like feeling a loose clutch or wheel slip at high RPMs as only the wastegate springs will be holding boost so they open at 4~5000 RPM giving you the feeling of a loss of power 2) I had hesitation, hard starting - was aftermarket injectors - I assume yours are stock correct? 3) My hesitation just came back , but I have codes now - B7 fuse blowing on the EVAP. Have you checked your EVAP system. The solinoids are correctly installed and working? Wires correctly installed , wires not installed ? This could allow excess fuel fumes to be injected to engine ...and if its not at the right time / temp you will get all sorts of issues including hard starting 4) You could isolate the issue some by unplugging all vacuum hoses, plug them off a the plennum and throttle body. does the issue go away or get better? . Clear / yellow is EVAP, throttle body goes to boost solinoid. Small black goes to heater controls. 5) Does the car appear to be running rich? smell , excess exhaust poping? 6) Verify the vacuum hose to the pressure regulator is hooked up and tight...easily forgotten
  9. Was chasing a off idle hesitation, hard starting, poor idle and even a some boost issues...all where found to be caused by the Aftermarket injectors I put in, I rebuilt the OEM Lotus ones and car now runs and starts like it should...added a reply in my orignal post on the issue
  10. AC Delco #12570619 I am guessing you mean the actual valve not the metal fuel rail housing. Easily replaced...takes seconds if you have the little valve removal tool. Its identical to replacing a tire valve....hint ask a tire shop for the tool. Fuel Valve - Most General Motors 1991 - 2008 AC Delco #12570619. Cost like 10~ 20 bucks with a new cap. Look up tire valve removal tool....its just a little fork looking thing. A small pair of needle nose pliers could be uses to undo it. It just unscrews. Look up the could make one really quickly. See picture at Keep in mind the black cap serves no purpose other then as a dust has no sealing abilities and is not made to hold back any kind of pressure!!
  11. Well after chasing this issue for some time I have traced the it to my upgraded injectors. It appears that although some may run RC injectors with out fault they where causing my issues. Not saying that RC injectors are bad but they just where not working in my car. Through my investigation it looks like the RC injectors ohm out at 16.2 ohms, the stock injectors are 12.2 ohms. My theory here from what I have read about solenoids and injectors is , although both are" high independence injectors" it appears the added resistance of the RC injectors creates a very quick open close time, although this sounds good it cuts the spray duration time down, in turn my car was running lean over, trying to compensate which just kept it in a death loop of too lean too rich....right or wrong something was up with the upgraded injectors. The car now idles nicer, no hesitation when cold , no more hard starts.
  12. Well there have been other references to EMM.6 in other threads on here....even in the L082T0327J it make reference to section EMM.6 ( I'll find the page number again ) ...but yes you are right the L082T0327J manual only has sections 1-4. Does EMM.6 exist....who knows. I solved my issue before the manual arrived so onto the shelf to collect dust it goes. It was sort of a let down as i thought it would include more detailed analysis of individual components. At least it looks like it has some better wire diagrams.
  13. Thanks. Talked to Jay and got one being sent out.
  14. Can some one tell me what part number or what part number contains the V8 EMM.6 engine management section?? I see a L082T0327J number online but some sites say it only contains EMM 3 & 4. Any conformation on what part number to order would be appreciated. I want to make sure I order the correct manual(s). I have other sections on CD like most people do but I continue to struggle with a rough idile, hard starting, hesitation off idle, and running rich in the right side of my engine. I have replaced most everything over the course of a year and I am at my wits end with this car.
  15. I will have to try this. Looking at some of my old computer screen shots I can see some values below 0.05V....I saw a 0.005V on one of my screen shots in closed Loop. I will check the wire harness tonight and clean all connections agan. I have thrown multiple oxygen sensors at the car so I dont believe the fault lies within the sensor itself if this is the root cause of my issue.
  16. After lots of trials on sensors and the EVAP system I saw what appears to part of the issue, the car is running in open loop for an extended period of time. The car is undriveable at this time. I am still getting a P0462 for the fuel level. I disconected the entire sensor and resarted the car...the car went into closed loop and set a MIL lamp...normally it does not set a MIL lamp for this. Drove it for an hour and it drove like I remember from when it was new. I am not sure if this sensor causes some of this condition or not but I will check the car agian in the morning and see how it reacts from a true cold start. Does any one know if the P0462 code triggers the ECM to enrich the mixture or anything? Still not sure why it takes minutes for this car to go into closed loop. I am guessing maybe ECM programming? I verified coolant temps from cold to warm up and they appear correct , IAT temps check out , MAP and BAR check out. When I run the diagnostics the 02 sensors appear to check out ok for heat up there any other way to verify the heater circuits and reaction time from cold to hot? So I guess if the Coolant and 02 sensors check out it must be the ECMs canned program? - Keep in mind I have never had this ECM run 100% correct and it was off of a UK Sport 350. How long should the car run in open loop before going into closed loop? I am guessing seconds right? Has there been any updates to the ECMs idle warm up circuit since 98 / 99 S350 ??
  17. Well the TPS sensor did not work. Replaced my new fuel pressure regulator again with a corvette one. That ended up showing only 39PSI so I replaced the fuel pumps . Still runs like garbage. I put my adjustible fuel pressure regulator back on since I believe the corvette one is not correct and adjusted it back up to 55 psi at idle. I can see the fuel pressure hold steady, spike upwards to 60+ when hitting the gas, and holds 45 psi after shut down and was still on 40 psi after I mowed the lawn. I dont think this issue is fuel system related...or alteast leakage Its very odd because the car will start cold and run ok for a second then it goes to hell once the ECM takes over. Runs extreemly rich , rough idle on RH side and still has the hesistation. I am running out of things to replace. I have the EGR blocked at the left exhaust manifold and at the split section of the EGR pipes & air injection disconnected and no cats So now this damn car has on it New MAP sensor New fuel tank pressure sensor New plug wires New Coolant sensor New fuel pressure regulator – Aeromotive adjustable New Fuel pump New waste gate solnoid New TPS sensor I have tried running this car with all external vacuum lines disconected to eliminate EVAP or air leaks but I see no difference. I guess I might as well tear the intake off and replace the coils, and new plugs again. I will try to replace the canister also , although I have tried it blocked off with no change. Does any one have a V8 who would try out my ECM and see if the issue follows the ECM? Analysis Issue seems to start when the car goes into closed loop mode Fuel pressure running is 55psi psi Car clearly is running rich. Car starts very hard when warm....struggles to catch and then has to clear its self up before it sets into a idle. Really really close to calling it quits and parting this car out since its no good to me like this and its been a year+ now chasing this issue.
  18. Well had some time to fool with it. Knocked the fuel pressure down to 55 psi and replaced the EVAP breather and also played around with the TPS sensor. I drilled out the TPS bolt holes so I had some rotational adjustment to it. Bolted it on making sure it had some pre adjustment to the throttle shaft. Runs better but still feel there may be something very slight. Will drive it a little bit and replace the TPS with a new one. I am still planning on removing all of the EGR and Air Injection to insure there is no air leaks there.
  19. Thanks guys. I'll try blocking off the secondaries and reseting the ECU. I have placed two new 02 sensors in the car but I will inspect the connections and wiring. Good to know the 32 degrees is a canned value. I'll also pull the plugs and see the condition to see if I one cylinder shows up worse then another .
  20. Well I have been trying different fuel pressure settings from 50~70 psi. The car seems to run a little better at 60+. I read in the manual fuel pressure running is supposed to be 61psi while the engine is running, 55 when it is not...I know many people have mentioned 55 as the stock kind of cinfused on that one. I guess I'll purge the engine of all EGR nonsense and air injetion bits to eliminate any air leaks from those.
  21. Ok been chasing this problem for a year now and I am just fed up.... Car starts up cold fine, idles strong and has sharp throttle response. After a few seconds when the ECU goes into closed loop mode the car idles a little rougher and has a large hesitation when gas is applied. If I stab the gas the engine will just go quiet drop to 500 rpm and hang their then after what seems like a second it clears up and catches up. Its almost like the gas and ignition shut off. The car drives fine down the road but starting from a stop and applying throttle too quickly below 2000rpm will result in the car hesitating, almost dying and then catching back up. The issue does seem to get better once the car reaches 80C but not fully….but this takes awhile with a large radiator. No check engine lights ..constant code P0462. Cant get it to go away. The Car has done to it RC injectors EU Sport 350 ECU No Cats 2 new Oxygen sensors New MAP sensor New plugs New fuel tank pressure sensor New wires New Coolant sensor New fuel pressure regulator – Aeromotive adjustable EGR blocked at the left exhaust manifold and at the split section of the EGR pipes Air injection disconnected. Analysis Issue seems to start when the car goes into closed loop mode Fuel pressure running is 62~63 psi Fuel pressure after stopping is 55 psi Fuel pressure remains at 55psi for well over 12 mins….i quit watching it…its not leaking Vacuum at idle is 18 in/m Below are snap shots of the car running with OBDII Scanner….any input is appreciated. The part that jumps out at me is the knock sensor 32 degrees retarded?? Not sure if that is even possible. Any suggestions???? Thanks Ray <a href=";current=Untitled-2copy.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href=";current=Untitled-1copy.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href=";current=Untitled-3copy.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
  22. I think the problem with several cases of aftermarket 02 sensors may be the fact a 4 wire o2 sensor comes in several un-detectable differences. 1 - Four wire sensor with 12 watt heater, grounded case and special protection tube. 2- Four wire sensor with 18 watt heater and grounded case. 3- Four wire sensor with 18 watt heater and ground isolated case. 4- Four wire sensor with 12 watt heater and grounded case. 5- Four wire sensor with 12 watt heater and ground isolated case. 6- Four wire “Planar” construction sensor. The V8 Esprit needs a Four wire sensor with a 12 watt heater isolated ground ( number 5 ). Anything else will blow fuses or not send the correct signal resulting in running issues. I tried several of the above to just to see what happens. I have been running o2 sensors off of a jeep spliced into my original 02 sensor connectors Bosch# 0258005704 ( 15704 at autozone ) or ( Universal# 0 258 986 507 ). No blown fuses. Idles fine, runs great. I also believe some of our 02 sensors have reduced life since they are directly below the rad fill tank. Radiator fluid is not good to these, seapage through the exhaust threads and wires could cause them to become "sluggish". Becareful not to spill onto them and the exahust. Get a bosh crossover manual and use 12watt isolated ground sensors. The Lada ones do not show .....they are mysteriously absent
  23. Sadly not really. Car runs great, idles ok but still has that annoying poping sound and hesitation. The codes have been erased and have not returned. The Po462 fuel level one solved itself with a full tank of gas... I feel the car is running lean at idle but no codes. I might try moving the TPS sensor around later this week a few positions and see if that has any affect on the off idle hesitation. Have you done anything to your car lately? Maybe I could see a pattern between mine and yours. I also feel my car runs hotter.
  • Create New...