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Rgardner01

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Everything posted by Rgardner01

  1. Thanx Tony for another great party. Look forward to next year.
  2. Thanks Gunter. Could you tell me which position ( A, B, C ) the Green orange wire and the Green black wire go on? I actually tried adding a ground wire to the sender so I will re add that if thats been done on newer cars too. .
  3. In trying to track down a never ending P0462 code I think I may have wired up my VDO fuel sender wrong when I had the tanks out. I have looked everywhere for an actual diagram showing where the wires go on this silly thing. I have tried a few different ways but I still am not sure. I have two leads. One being green wires with a black stripe and another Green with an orange stripe. Tere is two leads on the sender and one on the side for a ground.
  4. Thanks If they are 550cc then that should equal close to the 45lb injectors. They come in at around 480cc at 40psi so with the added Esprit V8 psi of 55-60 it should be close. The 65lb might be an option to upgeade latter too. They roughly equal 680cc ~ 700cc Here is the listing of what I have found. Roughly 100 USD each from Summit Racing. I am sure you could search the Holley part numbers and find them from other stores.
  5. I am planning on replacing my secondary injectors. I have found a source for aftermarket secondary injectors in 4 different flow rate sizes. ( 45, 65, 72, 80 ) I want to make sure I do not go to lean or to large. I have tried to find the specs for the stock 2.5L S10 TBI injectors that are currently in use but have yet to find an answer. I am guessing 45lb since the orignal TBI 700s on the S10 trucks where only a 1bbl single injector throttle body on a small engine capable of 170hp?
  6. I am having a problem with code P1101. I tried the link above but it appears to not be working. Code you tell me what you did to solve this issue? I have a very rough idle with OBD codes P1101 and a P0462. The exhaust is popping on the RH side and the car hestitates during first application of the throttle. The car is a US car but running a UK Sport 350 ECM. The EGR , Air Injection have been blocked and 240cc RC injectors injectors installed. So far I have tries 1) I have tried new secondary and primary fuel pump relays 2) Fuel pressue is 55psi at pump start up. Remains around 52-57 during running and goes up to 60 when I hit the gass 3) OBD real time data shows the RH bank short term fuel trim ranging from -3.80% to 0.87%. LH bank short term fuel trim ranging from 0.0% to +4.15%!! 4) I have swapped the secondary injectors to see if I could notice any change...nothing noticable i think 5) I have un plugged and plugged all vacuum hoses while running to try and see if additional air or blocking the items has any effect. Nothing noticable. 6) I have swapped the o2 sensors between position 1 and 2 ( I have not cats ) No difference 7) I have looked at all ECM connections and plugs and see nothing damaged, dirty or worn. 8) I have replaced the fuel pressue sensor on the tank with a GM one. 9) I have tried a US ECM on my car a few months ago and the issue was the same Any suggestions before I start tearing this car apart again? I feel like its loading up at idle . The car accelereates fantastic after idle.
  7. Yes Dave , Jamie tried his ECU in my carf and fired right up and ran with out issue. We have not tried my ECU in his car yet. Jamie has tried swaping a few sensors and once swapped a crank sensor stating his engine ran for second. Hey says he has fuel and can smell it but no spark is present at the plugs...both sides of the engine.
  8. Jamie use and ohm meeter and check the crank and cam sensor wires for continuity between the sensor plugs and ECU plug. Your ECU is good and since you mention you had it start once after replacing a crank sensor I would investigate the crank sensor wiring heavily for shorts, tears or loose connections.
  9. Neal, Not sealed at the moment put i have two designs I am working on to create airboxes that will seal them. 1 design essentially is a cone shaped airbox like K&N sells, the other is custom box using flat airfilters like what was orignally used. I dont drive the car in the rain so its not a huge issue at the moment but a closed system will be in place in a few months.
  10. To me right at the end when you shut it off ...the way the sound ends so abruptly and makes a light ringing sound makes me think maybe your starter is not disengaging after start up. I know when my v8 shuts off I do not hear my flywheel gear making the ringing sound. If you listen when you start it you hear the ringing sound of the starter gear hit your flywheel gear...that sounds normal but to the hear it again when you shut it off makes me beleive your starter engages when you start it but does not retract until you shut it off. Really you need to use stethoscope to narrow down the exact area of the noise. It could be clutch pilot bearing, throw out bearing, starter, something dragging on the flywheel or clutch, alternator bearing, waterpump ...really anything that rotates with the engine.
  11. No power figures yet with actual data yet. After I get some miles and usage on it (after all I had this apart for 8 months ) putting car on a local dyno might possible. I have not done anything to crazy to it. The engine only has blocked EGR, blocked Air Injection, No Cats, No muffler, direct air intake with K&Ns, RC upgraded injectors, ported exhaust and turbines, Intercooling, MSD Air Temp sensor , coated exhaust and turbines, upgraded wires, iridium plugs and a UK Sport 350 ECU......so nothing to crazy yet. After I get some data and miles on it boost increase might be possible but I would prefer just upgrading the turbos. As far as the heat yes I am sure some heat soak occurs but only half the intercoolers are directly exposed to the heat and all coolant lines leading in are covered with heat reflective covering to insure the water temperature reaching them is the coolest possible. I have looked into temp probes as possible option to fool with over the summer. I could always stick one before and after the intercooler to log the difference of temperature. Only then with data will we ever know how much if any heat soak occurs. At the moment it runs better then it has since I purchased it with less then 2000 miles some 6 years ago. I almost wish I would have torn it apart sooner.
  12. Thanks Guys for the comments Peter, Yes there is actually airbleeds on the front intercooler radiator. I lifted the rear to fill it so I will see how that works first otherwise I have to drop my under tray which is not a big but I am tired of laying under it. Mike Thanks for the comments means alot coming from you. As you know its always a surprise what happens next when you start to unbolt one of these things. Chris, Geir, The trans was cleaned up with a light sand blasting on the outside then coated with VHT SP402 Burnt Copper spray paint. The kicker is to then "cook" the trans housing and any other parts in the oven to cure the paint. Just dont let your wife see you doing it...send her to the mall. Onced cured its rather durable and does not chip easy. I think 3 cans in was to do it. Fasteners for the trans and most of the car are now stainless. The Glyptal can be had from Eastwoods. Old vintage cars use to use this to seal oil pans in porous castings..like old Ferraris and such. McMaster-Carr is whre most of the rubber trim, stainless fasteners, tubing, piping stuff came from. Compsiteenvisions.com is where the carbon fiber , resin and supplies came from Pump , fittings, tanks , AN push lock hose, heat covering, sensors where from JEGS.com One more thing I should add is the Turbos had to be clocked to the point the orignal waste gates mounts do not line so new waste gate brackets had to be fabricated and then mounted to the compressors. It was easy to do but cutting off the orignal mounts was definitely a no point of return event.
  13. Below is a photo story of my custom intercooler installation. I had two constraints I tried to work within in doing my installation. I wanted my trunk space to be unaffected and I wanted installation to appear OEM and clean up the engine bay. I decided the best option was to remove the air filter housings and mount the intercoolers in the area left behind from their removal. This would allow an almost direct input to the intercoolers and also fit under the engine cover. While the installation was in process I also: Coated the Exhaust Manifolds and Turbo housings with ceramic coatings to reduce heat Ported and gasket matched the exhaust and turbine housings Replaced all seals on the front of the engine Heli coiled all of the valve cover bolt threads on the cam housings Blocked off the EGR valve assembly Blocked off the Air Injection Upgraded to a Bosch 120amp alternator Re-timed the cams to 100% on spec and added new belts. Added permanent timing pointer and degree wheel Replaced the ECU with a UK Sport 350 ECU Replaced the IAT sensors with a fast response MSD one Rebuilt transaxle with Holloway 1pc shaft and the case drilled and tapped for future oil pump use. Re-lined the clutch discs to 7.5mm each Replaced a leaking slave cylinder Replaced all coolant hoses with silicone Re-enforced the exhaust manifold shields with 1.5 mm stainless steel plate Replaced all OEM clamps with wider aviation worm clamps Re-routed OEM houses and switched to hard AL tubing for some in high heat areas Re-lined the engine bay in Gold heat reflective film including the firewall Replaced the boost sensor line with stainless steel. Replaced the OEM radiator with Aluminum large core one Sanded and coated the fuel tanks as a precaution Replaced the lower fuel hoses with 250psi hose Refurbished turbo coolant lines – covered with heat reflective tape in exhaust areas During disassembly I noted several issues I was unaware of: EGR pipe was blown out Clutch was worn out Coolant leak at front pipes AC compressor bolts had worked loose Coolant T fitting from Turbos to tank was corroded Slave cylinder had a nick in it LH Exhaust manifold shield was cracked Alternator bearing was on its way out.
  14. Jamie, Yes those two ground points are the grounds to the ECM and also a few sensors through the ECM. Your fuel pump and check engine light come on correct? you just have no spark? You may want to verify power is getting to the coils and / or a signal. I think it would be odd you do not have spark on at least one coil so it makes me think some thing is happening to the power distribution going to the coils. Have you checked all plugs for spark? Have you verified the relays and fuses in the rear engine compartment? I have not looked at the wiring yet but there is some ignition relays back there..might be possible to have a connection issue there. You may want to remove the ECU plug cover and check with an ohm meter if power is getting to the ECM and from the ECM. with the back of the plug exposed but plugged into the car you can probe power distribution.
  15. Jamie, My failure I blame on myself not the computer being chipped. I actually have wasted two ECUs now. I believe the ECUs are sensitive to possible voltage jolts when disconecting / reconnecting the battery and or chargers. Both times I have fried my ECU right after connecting the battery after storage. During my first failure the car ran poorly the promptly quit. Looking back I suspect it had enough residual fuel and pressure and ran until the ECU overheated and finished itself off. This was a minute or two. The second failure time it had no life. Both times when my ECUs died I was not able to get a OBD scanner to recognize it. If your check engine light comes on during starting and the fuel pump runs for second. I would say your ECU might not be the problem. If you have these two items and your OBD reader sees the ECU I would check other items first before blamming the ECU. I would agree with Gunter and check connections on everything especially grounds. There are several sensors that could go bad and or quit that might stop spark - such as the front crank trigger sensor.
  16. Looks alot like the quick fuel fittings on GM fuel injected vehicles 92 and up. or possibly Dodge vehicles http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/640850/10002/-1 http://www.justanswer.com/view_image.aspx?href=https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/8000424b.gif They internal plastic lock retainers can be had at autoparts stores http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/images/product_images/thumbs/dorman/RB800060.jpg&imgrefurl=http://frugalmechanic.com/auto-parts/chevrolet-express-3500/fuel-delivery&usg=__h0pPDUGRuGfYoZcD1wg2o0oTDWQ=&h=73&w=110&sz=2&hl=en&start=15&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=4JTUChHxrRqJdM:&tbnh=56&tbnw=85&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dac%2Bdelco%2B%2Bquick%2Brelease%2Bfuel%2Bline%2Bconnector%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG%26tbs%3Disch:1 Big listing with pictures
  17. Looking at VDO catalog...it says 10-180 ohms for a VDO sender gauge, 240-33 for USA sender gauge, or 0-90 for GM guage . I am not sure which system the our gauges use as VDO makes sender in all three ranges. Look at a VDO marine catalog....lots of good diagrams and possibilities to cross and swap out.
  18. I have seen this before when I removed my plenum a year ago to add new wires but have any of you witnessed oil in your intake?? I just removed my throttle body and was alarmed at the amount of oil in there. Granted the intake was sitting upside down for a few days so all of the oil has ran to one location but even before the whole thing was "wet" with oil. I see no signs of oil in my airbox,filters, or in the intake tubes between the turbos and throttle body. It all seems to be in the manifold. I have never seen smoke used oil or anything from the car when running and it ran great with no issues. I am in the process of fixing a few seals, adding intercoolers and a host of other items so I have my engine out.
  19. When you guys are blocking off the EGR valve are you: Are you blocking the EGR off and leaving it off the car completely and disconnected from the computer? Also are you removing the air injection lines and the little vacuum combi valve on the back of the LH cylinder head?
  20. Great to hear! I am currently upgrading my box with the same kit so your remarks make me feel more confortable. How is the standing start pulling away casually? With the reduced first is noticable? Where did you source your new syncros? My second / 1st gear has a little wear so I figure i might as well replace it now. I was about to order one from Delorean.
  21. Wanted a 98- 2004 V8 ECU for an Esprit. Although I am in need of one for a US car I would consider a Euro car computer. Thanks Ray [email protected]
  22. Rgardner01

    V8 ECU

    I had an ECU go bad also a few years ago - car ran for a little bit, idled rough, drove it about a block with no power to it, close to the driveway it finally died. After a full wire loom check and seeing that the fuel pump was not working ( it runs through the ECU ) I had the ECU looked at - diagnosis was fried TRIACs. It was repaired and runs great. At the time I was told I would have re-submit my ECU to Lotus as a core as they rebuild them. There really is not much in one of these. Chances are your failure might be similar components. I cant see the whole thing being wasted unless you shorted it out. Do you know some one whos handy with high end electrical repair? For the $5 bucks or so that TRIACs cost verses the $1500 dollars for a ECU...it might be worth the time to see what happens checking the TRIACs out and if they are bad what happens with a few new ones soldered in place. http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_7/6.html In this website is a PDF that explains testing of them....maybe you could get some one to check em out. or http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/tutorial/triacs/triactst.htm
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