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hylandmotorsport

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Everything posted by hylandmotorsport

  1. I'm sure some of you have already noticed and wondered what was going on so I thought I'd post up here that my S3 is forsale. A couple of changes in circumstances have changed my plans and in order to take advantage of the changes (turn them into oportunities) I've decided after alot of soul searching, to put my Esprit on the market. The biggest change (after the Esprit sale of course) is a house move which will happen is July this year. I thought I'd be more upset but to be honest I'm looking forward to the opportunties and what lies infront (I'm concincing myself here too! PMA and all that!) . As the move doesn't take place until July I've a bit of time to be more 'picky' about who I sell my Esprit to but first and foremost I want it to go to an enthusiast that will keep the car in the conition that it is currently in. I unsure where to pitch my price and I may be slightly on the high side but time is on my side and if the right person comes to look at the car then I'll be a bit flexible on the price. (If I'm way off the mark please some one tell me though). I've placed an ad on the forum forsale section and on Pistonheads.com so if you know of anyone that may be interested and will look after my car please give them my details (conact details are in ad) Onwards & upwards!(I think)
  2. I still have the bonnet and tailgate seals available! And the new wiper blade
  3. Hi all, Thanks for all the comments, I think all the questions have been answered in one way or another. One thing, Slewthy is correct, they are actually plactic carrier strips for the doors, I replaced both of mine and got them from Paul Matty. The waist band trim is now sold but the tailgate and bonnet seals are still up for grabs. I've also just finished fitting a Citreon C1 wiper are to my car, top modification BTW, I'd already bought a new wiper for the Esprit arm and it's now surplus to requirements, anyone want the wiper blade for the cost of shipping? First to shout gets it. If anyone is interested in the Esprit wiper arm let me know, it is repairable (splines are worn) but I thought it more cost effective to replace the arm and as the Esprit arm in no longer available the C1 arm was the logical choice. I fitted the C1 arm as per Ajay's desciption but used an 8mm ball stud (rs cmponents stock number 689-394) as this is much more free than an 8mm stud but still as secure.
  4. Completely agree, wheel straps are 100% safe and are the best choice for securing the car being transported. I've trailered multiple cars for thousands of miles having competed in rallying for years. Wheel straps are by far the best way to secure a car to a trailer as they allow the trailered car to still benifit from it's own suspension rather than being compressed and stressing suspension mount points for miles and miles. One other tip, I know this won't effect you this time Simon but while we are on the topic of trailering a car, if you have a car on a trailer always always leave the car out of gear. Reason: repeated rocking of the car back and forward on the same gear in the gearbox will cause damage to that gear. And one final tip, balance the trailer! Too much weight to far back lifts the rear of the towing vehicle and will leave it prone to pushing the rear of the vehicle and a jack knife in extreme cases. Too much weight to far forward on the trailer will lift the front wheels of the towing vehicle and leave it very prone to understeer, dangerously so when braking, weight on the trailer goes forward and stops the towing vehicle leaning forward and reduces the amount of braking the front wheels can do before locking. Sorry to hi-jck the thread with tips on securing cars on trailers!I hope it helps someone.
  5. Hi all, I just listed some bits I have let over from my S3 restoration that I won't need now. The ad I don't check the forsale section that often so for those that are just like me I've double listed (Sorry Bibs) and put a post in here too. They are new parts (waist band trim, Bonnet and tailgate seals), if it helps get another Esprit looking a fraction smarter I'll gladly take a hit on the price. Cheers David
  6. I don't know if he will join here, I'll certianly mention here to him!
  7. No 61 is sold. I went down to have a look at the car this afternoon and for a completely original car (non restored) it is very tidy. Only a very small amount of spider cracks in the gel coat on the drivers side wing, the rest of the body was perfect. The JPS decals looked their age but they are original and I'd be tempted to say were better for being left alone. Mechnically the car was sound from what I got to see and interior wise the car was very good for the age and original. everything was there and nothing was damaged. Turned out the some one I know from my rallying days has bought the car. The car has gone to a good home, he's got a few classics already and I think he'll have bought it to keep and have a bit of history as well as enjoy on the road. It'll be well looked after. That's a pretty quick sale for an Esprit I thought?
  8. I didn't like to comment on the price as I'm a relative 'newby' (only 12months Esprit ownership so far) but I thought this was keenly priced for what it is and given the rarety value and popularity of the model. If the history, miles and condition are as good as it says some one will get a lovely car. I'm thinking of going up to have a look, I've not been up close and personal with a JPS. It's only 25miles away from me, if I get up there I'll put a verdict on the forum.
  9. I spotted this and thought that I'd post it up here if anyone is interested in it. I don't know the seller or the car but if someone from the forum wants to view it I'd be happy to help out if I can, maybe pick them up from the airport and take them to the car. Just pm me! Looks neat enough and the miles are low too! Jps advert
  10. I've done just under 400 miles in mine since I purchased it in February 2009. The car has been off the road since April '09 so I'm hoping to have many happy miles in 2010
  11. The only leather replaced was on the seat and the top of the dash. There were quite a few repairs carried out on the leather though, most notably on the drivers side door handle. The repairs were mostly done by glue and some kind of flexable filler the guy used. Once dry it could be coloured like the rest of the leather and it is a top job in 99% of the places. The only other leather work was the leather strip and the bottom of the windscreen. This was done with the same leather used in the seat re-trim dyed to match and then I stuck it in place using contact adhiesive. For anyone interested this is the website for the man that did my leather work. http://www.dynamixdyes.com/index.php His name is Ryan and he is very knowledgable. he does sell kits (repairing and dyeing) If any one wants a dye mix made up for the original Lotus colour the same as my car, Ryan has called it 'Lotus Tan' in his records. The other big improvement was the foam in the seats being replaced, there is a really good grip by the seats and the front of the seat base is raised nicely and I'd imagine (seeing as I've not driven the car yet) that the replaced base foam will offer excellent anti-submarining. The carpets was an easy job in the end but very time consuming. I ordered a carpet set from SJSportscars and I was pleasently supprised by how well it fitted and the leather work on the carpet set was top notch! To make them yourself would take too much tim, and I don't think you could get the leather work even half as good unless you are a professional trimmer. The longest job was removing the old glue from the car. Getting the trim off was easy enough and as fitting was simple as long as you take your time and make sure the carpet is in the right place especially on the sills. I used contact adhiesive for the carpets and it worked very nicely. For anyone thinking of having a go themselves I'd reccommend doing it if you are any way handy. Take your time, don't rush and you'll make a better job of it. But do have ago
  12. Hi Trevor, I paid a guy to repair and re dye the leather, and another guy to re-trim the leather on the seats. I dismantled and re-fitted everything and fitted the new carpets. I guess I did the most of it but for the specialist stuff I got some help. I had some dyeing to do myself, I didn't have the gear lever gaiter or the carpet set when the leather work was being done. Everything matches very well, leather round the seat belt, hand brake leather etc. Knowing what I know now I'd probably have dyed the leather myself but a professional finish always helps. Thanks for all the positive comments, I'm pleased as punch with the results and the reactions it gets when folk see it. I can't wait to get the car on the road again!
  13. Hi all, I'm looking for some advice. I was thinking about getting one of the numerous 'cheap' gps trackers that are around. I have two jobs for it and as such it needs to be fairly good quality. The first job is to retreive the car (my Esprit in this case) after a potential theft. I'm aware that these types of trackers can be jammed and it's for this reason I may end up having a proper 'Tracker' unit fitted as after a chat with them they can't be jammed, they claim. But the cost and continued subscription puts me off, especially when the car is locked in a garage most of the time. The second reason I'd buy a cheap one is for the recorder and data logging capability. I've spotted one that does exactly what I want in this regard (distance, acceleration, speed, max G-force etc etc) but it can't be contacted to find it's current location, it really is just a data logger, you download the data from the unit once you have it again. The reason I want this is because last week I dropped my BMW 335i into the dealer to have a rattle in the wastgate nvestigated and it came back with 1/4 of a tank of petrol gone and the average mpg on the computer down from 20mpg to 12mpg. I'd love to be able to go back and ask them why the car hand been driven at all and show them exactly where and when it went. This has happened before and the car is going back in on the 25th to have a new wastegate fitted. My question is, has anybody already bought one and do they have any reccommendations or advice? I'd like to know as much as I can before I buy one so any advice gladly taken. Thanks in advance!
  14. So I'm finally there! Some final cleaning, a trip to the garage to get the headlight and steering alignment set and then it's an MOT and I'm ready for the road. It's taken a bit longer than I'd imagined it would, especially this last interior stage, every job I went to do seemed to reveal another two jobs that had to be sorted first!. But I'm there now and it's been worth spending the extra time to get everything right as the result is jaw dropping even if I do say so myself, I'm very pleased with how it has turned out. I've pasted some before and after pictures so you can see the change that's taken place. The observant of you will notice two non-standard changes to the my car inside. The purests amongst us may object but I think they help IMHO! The 1st is the removal of the ash trays, I'm a non-somker and as far as I could tell they just seemed to gather muck and water. I think the inner sill looks much tidier without them. The 2nd change is the black roof cloth, I do like the dark roof cloth but this was a functional change. The retailer I bought the roof cloth material fom couldn't garuntee the colour of the material if he ordered in cream, and if I ordered it I'd have to buy it. Rather than risk introducing another shade of cream into the car I bought the black roof cloth material he had in stock. The stitching on the panel that holds the sunvisors and the clock was a bit tricky to do but I'm very happy with how it's turned out and it was well worth tackling the job myself. The final picture is, in my mind essential after all the hours of work I've put in and it was as cheap as chips! For a non-fitted seat cover it fits really well and the Lotus badge helps no end I think I paid
  15. Well, I'm just renewing my insurance on my '83 S3 Esprit N/A and I've been asked to get a valuation of the car. I'm just finishing a restoration project on the car so I've asked to increase the value of the car on the policy, they seem ok about that but do want a vaulation carried out. Does anyone have any experience of having this done? My insurance company have said that they are happy to have anyone value the car that knows how to value a car as long as the valuation is on headed paper. They have not stipulated a valuer to use, neither have the stipulated that it must be done by a valuer that can value classic cars for classic car insurance policies. Obviously I'd like to get as best a valuation on my car as I can, ie the most accurate value for the car. I'm in Belfast so I've no idea if there are any specialists that could value the car correctly locally. To satisfy my insurance all I need is a valuation but I'd like it to be accurate. Does anyone have any suggestions of where I can go (without driving to the mainland) or what I can do to get a good evaluation? Just for the record, I've been quoted
  16. It would be worth your while lifting the choke switch and window switch trim panel and see where the choke cable is getting a positive voltage to make it try and earth through the engine. It would be easy to lift the panel and rule out a connection to the wires going to the electric windows. Sounds like there was a serious amount of heat generated, you'll have to find the source as there is a good chance the wire that feed the voltage to the choke cable experienced simular heat and may have damaged the insulation. Good luck finding the problem. David
  17. Great news! I took the clock apart and sure enough I found a dry joint on one of the legs of the crystal, I repaired that along with a couple of other joints that looked suspect and my clock is working perfectly again. I have it re-assembled and ready to go back into the retrimed panel. I'm now ready to start putting my interior back together again! Pics to follow! Thanks for all the pointers and offers, I'm very glad it turned out to be a simple fix! Cheers David
  18. I had a simular problem with a pinto engine. It has to be on the primary side of the ignition, so keep your investigations on that side. I have two things to suggest. Firstly, the coil you replaced the original one with, was it new and a good brand? I've seen simular behavour with a coil. The cause of the Pinto problem (and I';d say it's worth replacing yours first) was a micro crack inside the distributor cap. In the pinto it actually stopped the engine after a about 15minutes, once it stopped it wouldn't start until the engine was cool again. When I looked at the cap it appeared fine but when I looked at it with a light and magnifying glass you could see it. Replace the cap with a new original cap and then see how you go. Hope you get it sorted out.
  19. Cheers for all the responses, I'll take it apart and have a good look for dry joints and other obvious signs of a problem. And give it a good clean etc. I didn't realise it was possible to buy a quartz crystal? Would Maplin have them or would I need to go to RS? I'll have a hunt online later tonight. I'd have to say that the crystal could be a likely candidate for the cause of the problem. Thanks for the offers Choppa and Hilly, I may take you up on the offer Hilly and if that fails and you find your spare Choppa I would be interested. I'll keep you posted on the progress of the repairs. Thanks again for the help. PS My new Carpets arrived yesterday from SJ so re-fitting the interior will be my Christmas Holidays task! My Esprit will be finished then!
  20. I have a problem with my clock, I'm just installing a new roof cloth (along with the rest of the interior) and wanted to sort the clock out before fitting the trim holding the clock. The problem is that it won't increase the time, when power is applied (12v, earth, 12v from interior delay relay) the clock lights up and displays 12:00 but will never increase the time. I've tried setting the time thinking that maybe the clock won't increase until the time is set but I can't get the time to change using the pin buttons. I've attempted to find a new clock but they are no longer available I'm told. Second hand working clocks are hard to get too. Can any one help me to either get my clock going or to help me get a replacement clock? The clock I have is made by Britax, if there are different types. Many thanks in advance David
  21. Hi there, I am fitting new front and rear hatch seals and ordered the correct seals from SJS. I've fitted and removed the front trim once already and the rear hatch has just been reapplied but it's playing havoc with my shut lines. The rear hatch sits way to high (IMO) above the roof line on it's leading edge. I finally managed to get my rear hatch closed tonight after reducing the tension in the rear hatch closing springs. I'm going to leave it closed for as long as possible but it's not going to fix the leading edge of the hatch. I attempted to apply heat from a hot air gun to a scrap piece of left over seal to see how it would react. I applied a good amount of heat for a few minutes but the foam rubber did not get any more malleable. Has anyone experienced this before and found a fix? I'm considering ordering a thinner seal for the front hatch, has anyone any recommendations? I see Frost does a couple that might work. Has anyone any experience of these? Cheers in advance David
  22. Hi Mick, I've just completed a full respray as well and I left the front and rear glass in for the same reason you are asking. I would imagine that you could get an auto glass fitter to remove the glas and re-insert it but theywould never gaurentee no breakages so it's just not worth it in my eye. I was more than happy with the results of my re-spray with the glass and chrome moulding masked off. I hope this helps David
  23. Hi Leonard, I'd read about your speeding ticket, hard luck! I couldn't agree more, speeding and any fixed penalty fine are what police seem to hunt for, minimal effort and paper work. It helps their stats too!
  24. Spotting is very fine filler, you can also high build primer to do the same job, one manufacturer of the high build primer even calls it 'high build primer with spotting. I'd think it'd be easier to do the spotting seperatly but I'm sure the other would work too. The silver I used isn't the hyper silver, just alloy wheel silver paint, I applied it with an aerosol so it really is a job any one can attempt at home. My wife's green house was empty so duruing the summer it was ideal to paint in (funny she didn't agree it was a good place to paint) when the wheel was ready to paint I placed it in the green house for a while to heat up and then applied lots of thin coats of the silver, with the heat the paint dried super fast! The only thing that was brushed was the black, engine enamel would be perfect, I wish I'd thought of using that, I used a hamerite version. If you are painting your centres by brush don't be disheartened after the first coat, it will need two costs. The gold might need more. I didn't mask when I was painting the centres as I didn't wnt to lift and new paint from the rim. I have a steady hand so just took my time and painted to the line that is on the rim already. I think I spent half a hour doing each coat of black on each rim. I hope this helps!
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