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p1renn

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About p1renn

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  • Name
    Renn Ortenburger
  • Car
    1977 Lotus Esprit S1

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  1. I'm tackling the heater blower wiring but can't get it to work. The S1 wire diagram shows that the heater blower motor has two wires, but mine has 3 and from pictures I see on the forum I think all S1 Esprits are like that. The wiring harness coming out of the blower motor on my car looks original and identical to some pictures I've seen on the forum. Anyway, what's strange is I see 3 wires going into the motor and they all appear to be hot (powered from the ignition or powered from the switch). I see no ground wire. There is an orange wire coming from the fuse box that is continuously hot when I turn on the ignition. There is a blue wire that becomes hot when I turn the heater fan switch to position #1, and then there is a yellow wire that becomes hot (blue wire is no longer hot) if I turn the switch to position #2. Does that seem correct? I'd assume to see a ground wire somewhere like I do with the radiator fans, but maybe the motor is internally grounded. The only thing I can think is I have the wrong switch in the car. Thanks to anyone that can help!
  2. Thanks for the help. I bought a standard coil from SJ Sportscars to replace the stock one. It's a black coil and doesn't have any markings on it at all. Is there any way to tell it's a ballast coil?
  3. My S1 Esprit (and all of them by the look of the wire diagram) has a pink resistive wire that runs to the coil. Mine was accidentally damaged when I removed the wire harness so I ended up cutting the rest of it out. Replacing it seems difficult as it's an insulated hard wire and not easy to splice back into the existing harness. I'm figuring that I can just replace the resistive wire with a ballast resistor, but I'm not exactly sure how to set that up. Has anyone else done this and know what type of ballast resistor will work? Do I just route a wire from the ballast resistor to the same location on the coil where the resistive wire was? Thanks in advance to anyone that knows.
  4. I tossed my old coil when ripping the car apart during its restoration. Does anyone know of a suitable coil for a bare bones stock 907 with stock ignition? I've read mentions of Bosch Sport Coil on these forums, but there are a few different types of those. I'm hoping someone can help me with the exact model or part number. Thank you!
  5. Thanks for the tip - I think I'll do the same. I'm assuming it's possible with the right adhesive to re-install the rear hatch glass (even the windshield) by yourself? I'd like to try it to save some $$ and do the job if I can.
  6. When removing my rear hatch glass, I remember removing a thin rubber gasket that had adhesive on both sides, sandwiched between the glass and the hatch channel. I imagine the rubber was there to raise the glass to be flush with the edge of the hatch. It was old so the rubber was as hard as plastic and broke to pieces when I removed it. I don't see any type of replacement material on SJs site or any of the other S1 parts sources. Has anyone removed their rear glass and run into this issue? What did you use to replace the old rubber gasket to bring the glass back to the proper level? Thanks in advance for any help!
  7. I'm doing this job as we speak. It's time consuming but really easy if you have a heat gun and the proper adhesive. The key I think is removing all of the old glue so the fiberglass channel is clean and smooth and the trim will go on straight. The quality of the new waist line trim is excellent (I got mine from SJ) - it fits the channel really well and a huge improvement over what my aged original trim looked like.
  8. I see - so it's you that owns the famous original orange Esprit! I'd love to see that car in person. Thanks for the tip. Yes I see the offset and I agree that it will probably hit the side window. This is going to be a difficult one...
  9. Thank you for the help. The Tornados look ok - any idea if they anchor into the same mounting holes? With respect to the original mirrors, they must have come from another car and not exclusive to the Esprit, but I could be wrong. I'll have to continue looking as they may have been sourced from an American car. The closest mirror I can find is from a 60-70 Ford Falcon, so I may try that route and make it fit into the existing mounting holes.
  10. The USA S1 Esprits originally came with chrome door mirrors with a really thin stem. My car didn't have them prior to starting my restoration, although I have seen pictures on the Web. The mirrors don't seem to match any other British car from that era. Does anyone know what car these mirrors were sourced from? My Esprit is in the shop being painted this weekend, and I left my doors with the original threaded inserts that stick out of the fiberglass. Fitting any other mirror may be problematic so I'm really hoping I can get lucky and find some originals. Below is a bad photo but you can see where the threaded inserts are located. Thanks in advance to anyone who knows, or has any extras they are willing to sell.
  11. Thanks for the help. Yes, seems like there is no way around some slight cutting which I might have to do after the car is painted (it's going in at the end of the week), since I don't have the bumpers yet!
  12. I know fitting the European front bumper on a US spec car is possible, but does it require you to cut new light recess holes into the front of the body? The reason I'm asking - it looks like the turn indicator lights are further towards the center of the bumper on the USA models, and further outwards on the European models. And that seems problematic because the lights actually anchor into the recesses of the fiberglass body (as opposed to just the bumper), meaning I may have to cut new holes. I'm weeks away from having my body re-sprayed so I'd rather make the modifications now, prior to having to cut into anything painted. I don't yet have the European bumper so I'm not sure how it all works. Cheers in advance!
  13. I soda blasted my S1 and if I were to do it again I'd be much more careful with the pressure regulation. Even with soda, you can blast straight through the gelcoat and into the fiberglass matte in less than a second if your pressure is too high. This is bad since you are left with a very uneven surface that needs to be filled and block sanded. Way more work than it's worth. Also, soda blasting leaves a rough surface area with subtle high and low spots that must be block sanded down. It's still a lot of work to "fix" the damaged areas and get them smooth and straight. My car had only the original paint so it was easier to make mistakes. If your car has that much paint on it, soda blasting should help save you some time but make sure you DON'T go past the original primer coat (the original primer coat on my car was white). Lastly, make sure you stick around and supervise whoever is blasting the car to make sure they don't get lazy and turn up the pressure. Had I done this I would have saved many hours of prep work afterwards! Here is the state of my car now, almost ready for paint...
  14. Ha ha ha. I didn't notice they are different either. Glad I was as least consistent putting them back together . Shouldn't be a problem though as I'm sure most cars have had the UJs changed with mechanics making the same mistake. I haven't heard of the driveshafts breaking or anything.
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