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DayOff

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About DayOff

  • Rank
    LOT

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  • Gender
    Male

More Info

  • Name
    Pete
  • Car
    73 Europa / 84 Esprit
  • Modifications
    Turbo Esprit Delco Project
  • Location
    Michigan
  • Country
    US
  1. Hi everyone, Does anyone out there know where I might find a BIN file from a 1989 NonSE Delco Injected ECM/ECU? Also trying to track down an xdf file for it as well... Just to clarify, this isn't the four connector SE ecu, but the 3 connector unit with two black connectors and a single yellow one. Any help is appreciated! Thanks, Pete
  2. DayOff

    DayOff

  3. Those are bushings for suspension arms and such on later (post 85) cars, correct? I'm looking for the shock stem or the bushing on the Bilstein shock itself (The suspension configuration that utilized the trunnion vertical link, etc...) (Off topic: Also aren't those prices insanely high compared with alternatives through SJS and others?) I'm comparing it with the prices I saw on Poly items for the earlier (pre 85) cars...but everything poly was going to be quite a bit less than one of those items by themselves...or not too far off... I don't mind paying more to help support the cause if they were the right part...but those numbers are a bit shocking.
  4. Spoke to Bilstein and they don't have any part #'s related to bushings for Lotus shocks. They mentioned if it was an OE shock, they literally supply the shock to Lotus, and everything else (all bushings) are in the hands of Lotus. Their only recommendation was checking with someone like Energy Suspension for a potential poly part... Pete
  5. Does anyone know any part numbers or general availability of replacement Bilstein front shock bushings for a 1984? (Bottom one with metal sleeve...as well as the two rubber bushings on top)? I wasn't sure if this was all that unique, or were just so 'standard' that they were pretty much everywhere. I have mine off the car and wanted to refresh them while they were apart. I see a lot of places like summit motorsports in the US with Bilstein shock bushings, but they have a general picture of an hourglass bushing used in about a third of their bushing listings...with various descriptions like 'metal sleeved', and such, and then some long Bilstein cross reference number. Thanks, Pete
  6. Thanks for the info everyone - Ok, makes sense on the flasher unit/LED situation. I may just swap the stuff back. The dash was really barely much better with the LED illumination (tried various wide spread bulb designs)...about the only thing that was improved was the square warning lights and the AC/heater controls (which are now almost too bright as it's vaguely showing through the control bezel's black background). The round gauges were just as dismal as before. I'm literally thinking of putting a led strip on the binnacle overhang, just so I can see these things. And that's coming from someone that never has complained about illumination before on anything. My '73 Europa has brighter gauges... I left the fiber optic bulb alone. First thing back will be that timer circuit, so the interior/door lights go out and don't drain the battery completely each day.. I'll take a look for more posts...if you do a search for 'LED', it comes back with no hits Pete
  7. I was curious if anyone's been ambitious and replaced bulbs on their Esprit with LEDs, and whether they've run into any issues with operation because of it. For example, on my 84, I noticed that if you have an incandescent #194 bulb on the turn signal, it works fine. If you put a LED in its place, the turn signal indicator will only flash when you switch in one direction. Reversing the bulb will allow the turn signal indicator on the cluster to work for the opposite direction, but not both. I've been going through my vehicle, trying to get everything working correctly, now that I've pretty much sorted out everything on the engine side of things... and noticing things acting oddly when it comes to interior and door lamp timers, hazard lights, etc. One minute I'll have everything working correctly, then the next minute the hazard relay won't want to work. I replaced the relay, as it hasn't been the first time that's fixed an issue for me on other vehicles, but it didn't correct anything. However, if I don't spend an hour mucking about with the bulbs to the point that the battery's drained, and actually have the battery at full charge, the hazards work fine. I'm also seeing a condition where the door and interior lamp bulbs won't turn off. It'll start working fine, but the next day I come out and see the door lights lit up with the doors closed...or find the interior lamp not turning off 20 seconds after the door closes, like it did the day before. Have a new battery, used fresh fuses...been cleaning all the contacts as I've worked through different connection points...etc Any suggestions/tips appreciated - Nothing like a little Lotus mental challenge Pete
  8. Ok, thanks for posting those... hmmm. I may be set now, after all. Time for a test run If it doesn't work, I may try swapping in the old 3 wire sensor, just to see what happens... Pete
  9. Thanks or the suggestion - I had not this time around, so I disconnected it overnight and ran a test again this morning or about a minute and a half. Basically it seemed to hit cold loop after 45 seconds now...does that sound about right? Still not real clear on how this is supposed to work (or what is directing what)... is the ecu supposed to measure the engine temp and not pay attention (aka, go closed loop) until it reaches a certain temp? Or is it some sort of timed process...(guessing it wouldn't be, as it's directly tied to a variable engine 'warm up' process).... or is the process of the o2 sensor starting to oscillate the trigger for the ecu to go closed loop?...etc... Or is there another variable/sensor in the mix here? This is what I have right now with a measure of about a minute and 15 sec of warmup time. Pete
  10. Here's the other 15704 o2 sensor...for some reason the forum kept mixing my photo order up..
  11. Just got my 13030...same issue. Goes right into closed loop at a cold start. My freescan report shoes this at the moment. I'm sort of at the same question - what triggers the closed loop? I may put my original 3 wire o2 sensor back in and see what happens... 13030 Graph is first... 15704 Graph is below that
  12. In running freescan, what I'm seeing with 15704 is that my car goes into closed loop immediately upon start. My car doesn't have the connector that matches 13030, so i'll try crimping it this time around. I've seen mixed info about the soldering/crimping route...never quite understood that, so any info you may know would be helpful. Pete
  13. What is technically genuine nowadays for this item? The original was a Bosch 0 258 003 022 sensor that was retired in 2000, according to Bosch it was a Volvo part. Is it now Bosch 13030? Pete
  14. Hi everyone, I'm working on my car's shakedown (just got everything back together and it finally runs again). Question, however... on the Delco system, what role does the O2 sensor having during warmup...or what does the ECU look at to determine when the vehicle is warmed up and to start reading the O2 sensor? The reason I'm asking... I have a flip-flopping problem at the moment: I just got my engine back together and it starts up great ... but after it warms up, the engine cuts out completely and I literally have to pull aside and give it time to cool down before I can drive again. I realized I had the gray wire (ground) for the O2 sensor not connected, so I connected it. Now my problem is swapped, as it runs rough/wants to stall during warmup, but then runs great after that. In fact, I start it up and it sort of has this lumpy idle, and if I pull the ground to the o2 sensor, it smooths right out....hook up the gray wire again, and it goes back to the lumpy idle. Now I *will* confess... as this was a restoration project, I replaced the original 3 wire Bosch 0 258 003 022 sensor with one I saw listed on the parts x reference...which was a 4 wire Bosch 15704 (0 258 005 704). So with this 'extra' wire on the 15704, the gray one, that's the one I've been grounding to get this different behavior. I've read about Bosch 13030 being pins perfect, etc... but in my car it didn't have a 4 pin connector, it had a 2 pin heater connector and a single pin to the black lead...that was it. I just got freescan rolling tonight, so I'm going to have a chance to really look at this in more detail once I can get some more cold starts recorded, so any info on the o2 sensor or ecu questions above are appreciated! Thanks Pete
  15. Thanks Jonn... I'm stil keeping an eye out for specifically that one photo, as it's a build of a turbo esprit (same body style/era/color as mine)... Pete
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