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Choppa

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Everything posted by Choppa

  1. I've had a massive improvement in the beams on my S3 having fitted LEDs headlamp bulbs from Classic Car LEDs. @Chillidoggy recommended them as a supplier on his restoration thread when he upgraded the bulbs on his S4s. Both of us went for the warm white bulbs so the light is a similar temperature to that produced by a halogen bulb. They do the Ice white bulbs as well. You can get cheaper bulbs on eBay etc but the bulbs Duncan supplies are the very best quality and on dipped beam give a very sharp cut off which exactly matches that of a conventional bulb, something that cheaper bulbs often can't do. The bulbs are a straight swap and similar in length to conventional bulbs but you may need to check where and how you'll fit the little ballast box that's inline between the old and new connectors.
  2. James, this thread may be of interest to you Elsewhere on here is a whole bunch of stuff about a poster called Hilly and a V8 conversion he did on an S3. I think this is the main thread about the project.
  3. Looks like the model included The Horns
  4. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-beds-bucks-herts-52110025
  5. From memory I don't think it gets out of 2nd gear! A gentle 30mph drive past on the road up to the hotel and a very slow U turn in front of the hotel after the ski chase. The S1 went faster especially off of the end of the pier.
  6. The skis on this home made ski rack (circa 1990) were fine on mine at speeds up to about 110mph on the autobahns through Germany and down to Basel. You can see how my rack holds the skis in just about the most aerodynamic position possible for when strapped to the roof of a moving car. By their very nature skis edges are very sharp and scratchy and Fabian's racks, as they match the FYEO design, will present quite a large surface area of the ski bases to the wind as the car moves along, especially as the Olins Fabian is using are 2 metres long. I'm not suggesting that the racks would break, but I suspect the skis, which are designed to flex so you can turn on them, will move around a fair bit in the wind at anything over 30mph and the edges and heels of the skis will scratch the paint on the rack. That would be a real shame given all the work that's been done on this and I'd suggest the skis would be best left off the car if any high speed driving is planned because the paint will get damaged, though I'll be happy to be proved wrong.
  7. Really enjoyed that episode and I've just found this link to a slightly longer piece on the digital dash https://www.facebook.com/carsosofficial/videos/1830633333738633/?t=5
  8. Well it's not that then! So in response to your question, I believe the right angled drive is held in position by one of the bolts that go through the end cover. If you look on the parts diagram you'll see the case of the right angle drive assembly has a semi circular cut out to accommodate it, so maybe the whole cover does not need to come off. Having said that I've never taken my gear box apart, I got Harry Martens to do the overhaul and fit the LSD so I stand to be corrected. As mentioned above Fabian has had his gearbox apart recently so he'd probably give you an answer
  9. Mine used to bounce around a fair bit at lower speeds, and from my experience it's more likely that your speedo needs an overhaul than the right angle drive gear needs attention. I used a company called Speedograph Richfield in Nottingham who did an excellent job, however there are many other companies around the UK who can provide a similar service.
  10. There is a bit of a technique involved in getting in and out of the Esprit as it's quite low, especially when in a tight car park space. Not as tricky as an Elise but something to consider given the problem you have had with your knees. It's surprising how much you can fit in the rear of an S3, and as it doesn't have the same ventilation arrangement over the engine bay as a Turbo or a Stevens you may be able to put the frame of your wheel chair on top of the engine cover and still close the hatch. I'm sure I've also seen photos of luggage racks clipped to the outside of the rear hatch on Stevens cars, and maybe that sort of arrangement would work for you if you found the right car for you.
  11. It looks to me that in that 3rd shot the bell boy can't fully open the tailgate because the ski tips are touching the roof stopping it opening any further. Also in that same photo has something has been placed underneath the ski tips to protect the paint on the roof? I hope your design will take that into account, you wouldn't want to get that smashing paint job ruined the first time you opened the tailgate with the skis attached. Interesting that the aerial is on the drivers side, is it the same on your car Fabian?
  12. That looks pretty good for 25 years of service, you should have seen the state of mine when it came out. From what I can see in the photo it looks like Dave's post on removing damaged studs came at a good time for you!
  13. Have you called Lotusbits to see what they have on their shelves?
  14. IMO that or a slight drop in oil viscosity won't have caused your problems, my bet is that all the wear you can see now was caused when you first fired up the engine and it ran for however long with zero oil pressure, and you've been "lucky" that it's run for a few months and a few hundred miles before the follower gave up. As an illustration on how resilient an engine can be to fuel contamination, many moons ago I drove a Lancia Beta Coupe. It had a mechanical fuel pump probably driven off the camshaft but I can't really remember how it worked now. Anyway the diaphragm in the pump failed while the car was on my drive and just ticking over. The pump failed in such a way that the sump filled up with fuel and spray coated the engine compartment with an oil/fuel mixture. When I lifted the bonnet to see what was going on (the engine had stopped!) the mixture was coming out of the dip stick pipe just like a small fountain in a garden pond. On checking, there was absolutely no damage to crank or cam shaft, I just cleaned it all down replaced the fuel pump and drove it around for a couple more years before the rot killed it. Also agree with Steve that the head did look very sooty for something that had only done a few hundred miles
  15. I've found that applying a thin layer of petroleum jelly over the surface of the rubber weather shield where it meets the glass helps reduce that noise. I also put a little on the rubber bump stop on the latches and the metal tongues as well which also seems to help.
  16. I've been talking with Duncan at Classic Car LEDs these last few days. He's a really helpful chap. I want to get replacement LED bulbs that have a similar colour temperature to standard halogen bulbs (around 3000k apparently). They currently don't have any "warm white" 3000k H1 bulbs in stock. They'll get more in late February. They do however have the 3000k H4 bulbs. If you wanted to go with the ice white 6500k bulbs I think they have both H1 and H4 bulbs in stock.
  17. I believe that the top plate on the Dellorto has a small hole that vents to air. If fuel is being pushed past the needle valves when the ignition is on but the engine is not running, at some point the air space above the float chamber will fill up and fuel will leak through that small hole, into the trumpet, onto the air filter, and then past that and down onto the distributor. I've experience this exact problem which was cured by fitting a new set of vitron tipped needle valves. @Sparkywill probably remember seeing the problem first hand and helping to fit the replacement needle valves at the time. If you are not seeing fuel being pushed past the needle valve as I describe I'd suggest Eurocarb did an OK job on that section of your carbs. It is also my firm belief that a significant proportion of the engine fires that have happened to owners over the years have been caused by failing float chamber needle valves rather than failed fuel pipes.
  18. Do take care when placing those skis on that lovely paint work. The edges, even an old set of skis like those, could still be sharp enough to scratch the paintwork, and if you've taken then to have the edges sharpened......
  19. Are the bearings on the gear change relay pivot worn? That could possibly affect movement in the front to back plane of the gear lever and maybe that's why its jumping out of gear This thing https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/A082F4050K.htm There are two different versions of these pivots this link is to the one for the older gearbox, the later boxes use a pivot with a 1:1 ratio
  20. Two thoughts on your temperature calibration conundrum. I've always believed the temp gauge to be indicative at best, slightly better in that regard than the Veglia gauge (!) but a little non linear around the 90 mark. Hence with mine which has an 82c thermostat, at normal running temp the needle is just short of touching the edge of the 9 if that makes sense. In my head I've always translated the mark to the left of 90 as a reading of 70c and to the right as a reading of 110c, other owners may have different values in mind. Also worth bearing in mind when you are calibrating your gauge that with the radiator cap on engine running etc the cooling system gets pressurized. So for example at 15 psi water boils at 121c so you probably don't really want the gauge range to max out when the coolant gets to 100c.
  21. If you had x-ray eyes you'd likely find the chassis number engraved on the chassis just about underneath the brake servo. Engine number will be stamped on the engine casting(!) and the gears box will also have a Cxxx number stamped on it, upper surface LHS near when it meets the bell housing, probably covered in years of oil and grime
  22. Looks great! Love the body coloured engine cover, not so sure about the toggle switches in the reworked dash, but hey, it's yours and will look fab when it's on the road in August!
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